[335boston]

Hey guys ,

Looking to track my single turbo n54, got most mods already done just wanted to ask you track guys if you guys noticed that these cars really need a specific set of mods to make the car track ready? I’m slightly worried about my suspension set up, it’s bilstien b8s all around with dinan lowering springs , eibach front and rear sways , and I’m doing the rear subframe bushings to solid aluminum in a couple of weeks. Let me know if you guys have found anything that really is a weak point that I should do before getting the track this spring (I have also street/ track brakes with ss lines and apex wheels wrapped in federal 595 rs-pro tires) !

Thanks in advanced !

[335boston]

Car will mostly still be a street car but I’d like to track it 2-3 times this upcoming season!

[rismo]

Brake fluid dot 4 (Yearly flush recommend)
The right brakepads
Coper brake caliper plug (Anti ballooning of brake system/lines)
Some coding to disable over active nannies (will cause overheating and power loss on the track if not done)
Waterwetter or similair
Good oil (Motul etc)
Better brakecables
Bigger radiator
Tires
Bigger oilcooler
Suspension update (rubber stuff and springs)
More suspension stuff: M3 bits and bytes and related

Kind of in the order above.
Most info to be found on the forum.

For pads -> PFC seems to work, EBC yellow, Pagid rsl1 (F) /rsl19 (R)
The korean brand seems to be great value/performance as race tire, info on this board. (v7xx something)

These car can be tracked without limping if you drive smooth, limps are often due to slamming the car in and out of corners. So driving skills make the biggest difference (I learned ;-))

Have fun!

[335boston]

Originally Posted by rismo

Brake fluid dot 4 (Yearly flush recommend)
The right brakepads
Coper brake caliper plug (Anti ballooning of brake system/lines)
Some coding to disable over active nannies (will cause overheating and power loss on the track if not done)
Waterwetter or similair
Good oil (Motul etc)
Better brakecables
Bigger radiator
Tires
Bigger oilcooler
Suspension update (rubber stuff and springs)
More suspension stuff: M3 bits and bytes and related

Kind of in the order above.
Most info to be found on the forum.

For pads -> PFC seems to work, EBC yellow, Pagid rsl1 (F) /rsl19 (R)
The korean brand seems to be great value/performance as race tire, info on this board. (v7xx something)

These car can be tracked without limping if you drive smooth, limps are often due to slamming the car in and out of corners. So driving skills make the biggest difference (I learned ;-))

Have fun!

Thanks so much for the information,

I’ve looked into some forums and they are a bit unclear on if I need to do bigger oil / radiators. I was hoping with the mossleman thermostat and the track cooling option on the MHD I’d be alright thoughts?


Ended up going ebc blue with their rotors as I absolutely destroyed my hawks 5.0 and oem rotors on the street haha. I’m also doing motul RBF660 for fluid

Also got full m3 front suspension on the front.

I also can’t seem to find any info on those copper plugs do you mind telling me more or what to search?

Thanks !

[mattanderson]

The thermostat isn't going to do anything for you, as it doesn't actually increase cooling capacity. When running hard, you're going to be running well above whatever temp the stock thermostat opens anyway.

Confused by the copper plugs, as well. He must be referring to brass caliper pin bushings? (Which is also news to me, thanks!) Not sure I agree with those being #3 on the list, though.

[rismo]

An example is this set:

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...e-bushing-set/

Re radiators/oil coolers: It has been proven that the radiator keeps the temp in control, so an upgraded version is a pre. Directly after or together with a secondary oil cooler like the m3 dct cooler or BMW PPK cooler setup.

The thermostat does not do much besides making it harder to warm up your car on the street and extend at best the time before your temps issues happen on the track.