[ExZackly]

Hello everyone. I own a E92 320i with a N43 engine and yesterday It broke down. I only travelled about 10 miles from home and I felt the car lose all it's power. It was getting me like +5 mph in each gear -slowly. I pulled over and the engine felt quite hot, especially for such a short journey and only reaching a max of 50mph in suburban roads. Only thing I noticed was the coolant as a little low and the radiator fan wasn't spinning. I assumed my thermostat had gone so I topped up my coolant once the car had cooled down and tried to get the car home after waiting an hour. 3-4 miles later the car started shaking at low speeds. Which slowly got worse until it gave up entirely. A weird symbol popped up on the dash for like a split second that I can't find anywhere online. It was like the engine management light but only half of the engine was full in a diagonal fashion? (shitty drawing for reference) When I opened the bonnet the second time and took the oil cap off a bit of smoke came out and it smelt of petrol inside. Plus under the hood smelt of burning plastic. I don't get any warning lights on the dash at all now and it won't start. Just ticking over. Does anyone have any ideas as to what this might be? Blown head gasket? Fuel pump/injector maybe?

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Thanks in advance, any advice would be massively appreciated. It's my first car. I absolutely love driving it but so far its cost me more in parts than the price I paid for it only 3 months ago, so this might just be the reason I get rid of it :/

[PhaceN52]

Start by reading codes, we can start from there
When you try to start it now it spins faster than before?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by ExZackly

... E92 320i with a N43 engine...yesterday... It was getting me like +5 mph in each gear -slowly... Only thing I noticed was the coolant as a little low and the radiator fan wasn't spinning... I topped up my coolant once the car had cooled down and tried to get the car home after waiting an hour. 3-4 miles later the car started shaking at low speeds. Which slowly got worse until it gave up entirely. A weird symbol popped up on the dash for like a split second... I don't get any warning lights on the dash at all now and it won't start. Just ticking over...

Time to start learning about the Warning Lights, CC-ID Codes, and how FAULT CODES work = DIAGNOSIS.
Don't expect to become an EXPERT in Diagnosis immediately, but we ALL have to start Somewhere. With Forum Help, if YOU take the time to gain CONCEPTS of how your BMW systems work, you can at least identify WHAT is causing your issue.

The ICON you show is the "Half-Engine" Warning Light. That indicates the DME has entered "Limp Mode". It is telling you what you ALREADY know: Your Engine is NOT operating at FULL Power, but it does NOT tell you WHY. If that Icon is RED, instead of Yellow, that means STOP ENGINE. Most other RED Warning Lights, such as those related to engine or transmission Temperature, or Oil Pressure, mean STOP Vehicle & ENGINE NOW, to prevent damage.

There are several different levels of "diagnosis" of an issue:
1) Warning Lights: on Instrument Cluster give simple notice that an issue of a particular type (e.g. Engine Temp) exists;

2) CC-ID Code(s): can be read without any Scan Tool, to give slightly more detail about fault than Warning Light;

3) Fault Code(s): have more-detailed definition of fault, based on signal from Sensor (High, Low, None, Implausible);

a) Fault Codes: can be read with Scan Tool, or diagnostic software such as INPA or ISTA. They do NOT mean "replace part X", but rather indicate an issue with an expected signal, Often caused by wiring or connector issues, rather than component.

b) Freeze Frame Data: associated with a particular fault code gives certain Parameters/conditions (e.g. Temp/RPM/Mileage) at moment Fault Code was saved in Fault Memory.

c) Live Data: shows values of things such as Temperature, Voltage, etc. as received by Module from a Sensor, Ignition ON.

d) Activations/Triggering: can be used on more sophisticated Tools to "Activate" Electrical Motors, Solenoids, Lights.

e) Be aware that "Entry-Level"/cheap Scan Tools CANNOT connect to Modules OTHER than the DME (Engine Control Module), such as the CAS, FRM, JBE, IHKA modules; but if ALL you need is Engine diagnosis, then Entry-Level MAY be all you need.

f) In US, large Parts Retailers such as Advance Auto, AutoZone, etc. will read Fault Codes FREE. Check with Local Store.

See attached PDF for partial List of CC-ID Codes, & Warning Light Meaning. A similar partial list is found in your Owner's Manual. You can get a pdf version of your Owner's Manual at this link:
https://www.bmwusa.com/owners-manuals.html

Linked below is a 30 Quid example of Entry-Level P-code reader that will also display Freeze Frame data & Live data when connected to the DME Module. It will NOT display faults or data in other Modules:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Autel-AutoL...1zcF9hdGY&th=1

George