[validated335]

Hey everyone. I wanted to thank everyone and the forum for helping me fix my annoying wastegate rattle issues. Saved me from spending $2k + to replace turbos. Spent the money on a new set of wheel instead .

I wanted to pass the knowledge on in one simple post to help all the new n54 owners. I know this platform is becoming cheaper so many more people will be hopping on board. Everyone's issue might be a little different but I hope this helps eliminate the common causes of the rattle.

Background: Bought a 08 E92 335i at 142k miles. Waste gates rattled like crazy but didn’t noticed it on the test drive. Only discovered it after taking it home and with it all warmed up. Also got the 30FF code randomly.

It took a few months of researching but my problem is all fixed and I followed these steps. I basically skipped step 1 but I think its an important step if you don’t want to replace unnecessary parts.

I’ve included helpful threads, where to get tools/parts, price and time estimates. Let me know if I need to update or have incorrect information.

1. Test for vacuum leaks
a. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1185791

2. Replace all vacuum lines with silicon or equivalent. (~$30, 1 hour)
a. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=894084
b. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1394249
c. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3. Replace Boost Solenoids (~$140, 30 min)
a. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1090092
b. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E90-335i...72.m2749.l2649

4. Adjust rear actuator arm (~$20, 30 min)
a. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=516992
b. https://www.amazon.com/Eclipse-Tools...rds=4mm+wrench

5. Adjust front actuator arm (~$5, 1.5 hours)
a. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=890145

[TwinTurboTime]

Thanks for the great list!

[Rory]

So did replacing the boost solenoids do anything for the rattle or was it just the physical arm adjustment that did it ?

[validated335]

Originally Posted by Rory

So did replacing the boost solenoids do anything for the rattle or was it just the physical arm adjustment that did it ?

Replacement of the solenoids didn't solve my problem. It might have helped. The first thing to do is to make sure there are no leaks in the system. If there are leaks, adjusting the actuators might not do anything. The solenoids were a potential leak area.

BUT if you don't replace first and have bad/leaky solenoids, not enough vacuum will be supplied to the actuators. You could potentially over adjust the rear or it might never solve the problem because not enough vacuum is available.

It's not too expensive and doesn't take long to change out.

I did things out of order, but this is how I went about it:

1. Adjusted rear actuator rod (40% rattle reduction)
2. Changed vacuum lines (0%-little rattle reduction). All my lines were in good shape.
3. Changed solenoids. (0% rattle reduction). My solenoids might have been good.
4. adjusted front actuator rod (100% rattle reduction).

If you want to save money and time, I suggest finding leaks first before replacing/adjust random parts.

[tmick5jr]

or you can just use your jb4 and change the "future use D" setting to 99. mines all gone

[validated335]

Originally Posted by tmick5jr

or you can just use your jb4 and change the "future use D" setting to 99. mines all gone

Any lag with it?

Used the MHD rattle fix and the lag was terrible and not worth it. Made me not want to drive the car.

Also I had the 30FF under boost code + limp mode and since replacing everything I have not seen it again.

[tmick5jr]

Originally Posted by validated335

Any lag with it?

Used the MHD rattle fix and the lag was terrible and not worth it. Made me not want to drive the car.

Also I had the 30FF under boost code + limp mode and since replacing everything I have not seen it again.

I didn?t notice any lag. It takes 2 seconds. Try it out yourself and see

[CanadianTSi]

Originally Posted by validated335

Any lag with it?

Used the MHD rattle fix and the lag was terrible and not worth it. Made me not want to drive the car.

Also I had the 30FF under boost code + limp mode and since replacing everything I have not seen it again.

Any tuning solution to wastegate rattle is just holding them open therefore creating more lag. Simply a bandaid fix.

[YoungBlood]

Yup been there used both to get rid of rattle and I still had it a bit with revs in place (not that I do that often) but adjusting both arms tighter got rid of all rattle for me. Eventually you can get so much wear the wheel doesn't deal right but I can hit 21psi no problem soo I'm gonna rock em til they blow 😉

[semper]

Originally Posted by CanadianTSi

Any tuning solution to wastegate rattle is just holding them open therefore creating more lag. Simply a bandaid fix.

That is not true at all mine rattle was fixed when I set settings on 80% aka more shut wastegate... and there was no change in lag at all also if i turn MHD off my car backfires and gurgles on decel + smoking...