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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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335D Radiator Replacement
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05-04-2024, 09:46 PM | #1 |
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335D Radiator Replacement
Hi all,
I need to replace the radiator on my 335D and I going to use the Nissens from FCP (Nissens 60785A, BMW part 17117794488). Couple of questions. First, I cannot find a go by for this anywhere, and I have looked everywhere. I find plenty for the E90, but not the 335D. I have watched the videos and the set up is completely different for the E90. Any help/suggestions? Second question. What radiator parts/hoses (if you could include part number that would be great) do you recommend changing while replacing the radiator? Are there any parts that tend to break when replacing the radiator (one of the hoses snapped on my egr cooler replacement vert easily). Car has about 128K and I just replaced the thermostat and EGR cooler (had codes). Thanks! |
05-06-2024, 10:51 PM | #2 |
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Drives: 2010 335D, V-10 Touareg Diesel
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Bosoxnumber1,
In general, It is recommended to replace all rubber coolant hoses once a vehicle gets over 100k miles or over 7 years old. Other common failure items for all vehicles in general are Alternators (150k miles), water pump seals ( 150k miles), accessory drive belts (100k miles), thermostats (125k miles), shocks (150k miles), brake pads (40k to 70k miles depending on driving style/location), power steering pump (170k miles). With our vehicles add the harmonic dampener which can go out between 50k miles and 150k miles) depending on how much time your vehicle spends idling. |
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05-28-2024, 11:08 PM | #3 |
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Drives: 2011 BMW 335D
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If you are asking about a how-to for replacing the radiator, it isn't overly difficult.
Pull the fan and the radiator is right there. Drain is accessed from the bottom on the driver's side. IIRC the intercooler comes out to get to the drain. Then pull the hoses off and possibly a few trim pieces at which point I think it comes out. I could be mistaken but don't believe you need to disconnect the AC lines to get the radiator out, but if you do, you want to have the AC evacuated before starting the project. As for other things to address while there: As already stated, the harmonic balancer (assuming it is OEM style and over 50K miles. Fluidampr or similar, you shouldn't need to worry about harmonic balancer. Along with radiator hoses, you will want to replace the coolant flange on the driver's side of the engine. If you have original belts, this would be a good time to swap those too. The tensioner and pulleys will be easily accessed (if you are trying to assure ultimate reliability). You will want to check the EGR hose that drops down to the turbo (because it tends to fail). You will want to check the condition of your vacuum lines and replace those if needed. If you find a bunch of oil on the front of the engine (like I did), check the bolts holding your vacuum pump on (mine were finger-tight). Since you are taking out the intercooler, it would be a good time to consider upgrading the boost lines and or intercooler (if you are considering doing such upgrades anyway). You may find that the boost pipes on either side of the intercooler are beginning to degrade and need to be replaced anyway. At 128,000 miles you probably don't need to worry about the water pump yet. Last year, when I had my vehicle apart, I replaced all of the above as well as the valve cover gasket, vacuum solenoids, and oil lines too/from turbos. I seriously debated replacing the AC compressor too but passed because I had to draw the line somewhere. Sure enough, come August the compressor bit the dust. However, my vehicle had 165,000 miles on it at the time so you may be good for a while. As for the alternator, I have yet to deal with that, but remember looking at it and thinking it was not going to be fun when the time came to change it out. |
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