[javi911]

Hello, I've been having this constant issue with a buzzing/ clicking noise behind in my glove compartment fuse box. I've read around forums and reddit posts but cant find anyone having this same issue as me

When this first started, my exterior parking lights (angel eyes, 3 brake lights) and compass would stay on. The clicking happens either when i insert the key or press the 'start' button. When i remove the key, the buzzing starts, then it all stays on. It's almost like my car thinks i have the key inserted and i can turn the ignition on. All my windows, locks, lights, etc work fine it's just this issue. In order for me to turn off the lights i have to keep clicking the start button until the buzzing stops and the compass turns off.
I don't have comfort access.



EDIT: 10/19/2022

Replaced the CAS Module and it fixed the issue.
I installed a new AGM battery today but the clicking still happens. I also ordered a new CAS Relay which should arrive in the next few days.

My next troubleshooting step is to send in my FRM3 to get repaired.

Anyone have any clue what is happening or any steps i should take in troubleshooting/ repair? First post thank you in advance to everyone <3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZ00...annel=JaviHabi

[F31B48]

Originally Posted by javi911

Hello, I've been having this constant issue with a buzzing/ clicking noise behind in my glove compartment fuse box. I've read around forums and reddit posts but cant find anyone having this same issue as me

When this first started, my exterior parking lights (angel eyes, 3 brake lights) and compass would stay on. The clicking happens either when i insert the key or press the 'start' button. When i remove the key, the buzzing starts, then it all stays on. It's almost like my car thinks i have the key inserted and i can turn the ignition on. All my windows, locks, lights, etc work fine it's just this issue. In order for me to turn off the lights i have to keep clicking the start button until the buzzing stops and the compass turns off.
I don't have comfort access.

I installed a new AGM battery today but the clicking still happens. I also ordered a new CAS Relay which should arrive in the next few days.

My next troubleshooting step is to send in my FRM3 to get repaired.

Anyone have any clue what is happening or any steps i should take in troubleshooting/ repair? First post thank you in advance to everyone <3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZ00...annel=JaviHabi

The best place to really start is by scanning the car for codes. Do you have ISTA or INPA? They are free to download if you don't. You just need an old windows laptop and k+dcan cable.

You could try pull the black relay out on the right of the fuse board and see if the buzzing stops.

Also your FRM3 is not the issue here and its on the opposite side of the car. Your video shows the JBE and fuse board. Don't start replacing parts willy nilly. You will just end up wasting money and probably dig a deeper hole. Try to isolate where exactly on that board the noise is coming from.

Are there any other issues happening with the car?

[javi911]

I did run INPA and my car threw 16 for the cas and 14 for frm. Also for JBBF : A6CF, A732.

I'll try to pull the black relay in the fuze panel next, I ordered that one from Amazon a couple days ago. My next plan of attack is pull a JBE from same year and model at a junkyard and plug it in to see if the buzzing stops. Then if that fixes the issue either learn how to code it or hire someone to do it remotely.

My windshield wipers also get stuck in a random position then refuse to turn on for a couple of minutes, and the rain sensor doesnt work. Have had that since i got the car 2.5yrs ago tho.

[F31B48]

4837 4

Originally Posted by javi911

I did run INPA and my car threw 16 for the cas and 14 for frm. Also for JBBF : A6CF, A732.

I'll try to pull the black relay in the fuze panel next, I ordered that one from Amazon a couple days ago. My next plan of attack is pull a JBE from same year and model at a junkyard and plug it in to see if the buzzing stops. Then if that fixes the issue either learn how to code it or hire someone to do it remotely.

My windshield wipers also get stuck in a random position then refuse to turn on for a couple of minutes, and the rain sensor doesnt work. Have had that since i got the car 2.5yrs ago tho.

When you say it threw 16 fror the CAS and 14 for the FRM, do you mean 16 codes?
Try clearing all the codes with INPA then see which codes come back.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by javi911

... constant issue with a buzzing/ clicking noise behind in my glove compartment fuse box... When i remove the key, the buzzing starts, then it all stays on. It's almost like my car thinks i have the key inserted and i can turn the ignition on. All my windows, locks, lights, etc work fine it's just this issue. In order for me to turn off the lights i have to keep clicking the start button until the buzzing stops and the compass turns off.

It sounds like your "30G" Relay (Accessory Relay) is staying activated. The CAS Module controls the 30G Relay. The FRM does NOT control that relay. The JBE Module also does NOT control that relay. The relay is plugged into the JB (Junction Box) Fuse panel.

So the FIRST thing is to get in the passenger footwell when the relay is buzzing/clicking, and feel the case of the large 30G relay on the right side of the JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel to see if that is vibrating. If so, simply pull the relay out of the JB and see if the buzzing stops and things return to normal.

If that 30G Relay is what is buzzing, bench-test the relay to see if the contacts open/close properly when the electromagnet (pins 85 & 86) are powered/grounded. If you need suggestions on HOW to bench-test the relay, just post back.

If the relay operates normally, then there is something in the CAS Module activation of the 30G relay, or the wiring between CAS & JB, that is causing the "relay chatter". If the buzzing continues after removal of the 30G relay, or the Instrument Cluster remains lighted, see if there is vibration at the upper-right of the JB (where the KL15 Ignition Relay is soldered to JB circuit board). CAS also activates the KL15 relay.

Just take it a step at a time and we can provide wiring diagrams and testing suggestions.

If you have INPA, connect to the CAS Module (Body/Car Access System) and go to the F5 Status > F2 Analog > F1 Diagnose Terminals Screen. Note what happens to Voltage at the following Terminals when you:

(A) Insert Remote into Insert compartment: Radio should play & KLR Radio should be 12V+, and KL30G will be on if you "woke up" the vehicle;

(B) Press Start Button WITHOUT pressing Brake/Clutch: Instrument Cluster should light & KL15 should NOW be 12V+ along with KL30G & KLR;

(C) IDENTIFY the "KL50" Voltage & Amp bar graphs in bottom two rows of screen and WATCH those as you Press START button while pressing Brake/Clutch; STARTER should Crank, and KL50 voltage should be in range of 10.5V (Voltage drop during starter cranking ~ 2 volts).

That screen can be used to test for proper CAS function in activating KL30G, KL15, and Starter Solenoid (KL50).

Please let us know what you find,
George

[javi911]

Originally Posted by EvaBmw

4837 4

When you say it threw 16 fror the CAS and 14 for the FRM, do you mean 16 codes?
Try clearing all the codes with INPA then see which codes come back.

Yes sorry, thats what i meant codes. My brother took the laptop with all my bmw programs so i couldnt do this. Ill make sure to try it out tomorrow.

[javi911]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

It sounds like your "30G" Relay (Accessory Relay) is staying activated. The CAS Module controls the 30G Relay. The FRM does NOT control that relay. The JBE Module also does NOT control that relay. The relay is plugged into the JB (Junction Box) Fuse panel.

So the FIRST thing is to get in the passenger footwell when the relay is buzzing/clicking, and feel the case of the large 30G relay on the right side of the JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel to see if that is vibrating. If so, simply pull the relay out of the JB and see if the buzzing stops and things return to normal.

If that 30G Relay is what is buzzing, bench-test the relay to see if the contacts open/close properly when the electromagnet (pins 85 & 86) are powered/grounded. If you need suggestions on HOW to bench-test the relay, just post back.

If the relay operates normally, then there is something in the CAS Module activation of the 30G relay, or the wiring between CAS & JB, that is causing the "relay chatter". If the buzzing continues after removal of the 30G relay, or the Instrument Cluster remains lighted, see if there is vibration at the upper-right of the JB (where the KL15 Ignition Relay is soldered to JB circuit board). CAS also activates the KL15 relay.

Just take it a step at a time and we can provide wiring diagrams and testing suggestions.

If you have INPA, connect to the CAS Module (Body/Car Access System) and go to the F5 Status > F2 Analog > F1 Diagnose Terminals Screen. Note what happens to Voltage at the following Terminals when you:

(A) Insert Remote into Insert compartment: Radio should play & KLR Radio should be 12V+, and KL30G will be on if you "woke up" the vehicle;

(B) Press Start Button WITHOUT pressing Brake/Clutch: Instrument Cluster should light & KL15 should NOW be 12V+ along with KL30G & KLR;

(C) IDENTIFY the "KL50" Voltage & Amp bar graphs in bottom two rows of screen and WATCH those as you Press START button while pressing Brake/Clutch; STARTER should Crank, and KL50 voltage should be in range of 10.5V (Voltage drop during starter cranking ~ 2 volts).

That screen can be used to test for proper CAS function in activating KL30G, KL15, and Starter Solenoid (KL50).

Please let us know what you find,
George

Wow amazing right up. Unfortunately i cant run INPA until tomorrow but today I got into the fuse box, and checked every fuse.

The 30G relay is the one i ordered from amazon, i havent received it yet tho. I did pull it and the buzzing chatter remains. The relay is pretty warm when i grab it. I then removed the JBE and pressed the button and theres still buzzing in the fuse box. My alternator is running at 14.75v and my battery is charged.

I think i caused 4 more problems though. The fuel level doesnt read anymore, i cant lock/unlock doors, DSC off on startup (cant click dtc button anymore), and my A/C isn't blowing cold anymore.

I couldnt hit the junkyard today but tomorrow ill go take a relay off another bmw so i dont have to wait until the new one arrives. I'll also do all the steps you provided and post them here when i am done.

Would taking it to an indy shop benefit me?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by javi911

... The 30G relay is the one i ordered from amazon, i havent received it yet tho. I did pull it and the buzzing chatter remains. [As mentioned in first post, KL15 (Ignition) relay is soldered to circuit board INSIDE the JB fuse panel in top-right, ABOVE the location from which you removed the 30G relay. If buzzing continues AFTER pulling the 30G relay feel for vibration at the KL15 location. ALSO, is Instrument Cluster still lighted during the buzzing?] The relay is pretty warm when i grab it. [That is NORMAL according to Forum Posts by others] I then removed the JBE and pressed the button and there's still buzzing in the fuse box... The fuel level doesnt read anymore, i cant lock/unlock doors, DSC off on startup (cant click dtc button anymore), and my A/C isn't blowing cold anymore. [ALL of those items have connection to the JBE, AND the JBE is the K-CAN BUS HUB. Do NOT plug-in, or UN-plug JBE with battery (-) Terminal connected. Disconnect Negative terminal and reinstall the JBE. There is VERY LITTLE chance the JBE is related to the buzzing. Randomly disconnecting things is NOT a recommended diagnostic procedure, even for someone who understands what components EACH of the Modules serves.]

I couldnt hit the junkyard today but tomorrow ill go take a relay off another bmw so i dont have to wait until the new one arrives. I'll also do all the steps you provided and post them here when i am done. Would taking it to an indy shop benefit me?

IF you have the patience to diagnose the issue, using INPA, and taking it a step at a time, you will (1) save money, (2) learn how to use INPA, (3) Learn some new concepts about how the various Modules and Systems work, and MAYBE, if you're LUCKY, actually fix it.

Conversely, if you randomly pull parts "Just to See WHAT Happens", you will wind up with a VERY expensive bill at the Indy.

Suggested PLAN:

1) Reinstall JBE if you have NOT already done so, BATTERY DISCONNECTED;

2) Try to identify the exact location of the "Buzzing" with particular attention to the upper-right corner of JB Fuse Panel (KL15 Ignition Relay);

3) If you can use INPA, do TWO Basic tests:

A) Functional Jobs > F4 Error Memory ALL Modules; that will generate two screens of fault codes; Save ScreenPrints of those two screens and attach here.

B) CAS > F5 > F2 > F1 Diagnose Terminals as described in detail in prior post.

Please use a photo editor, such as Windows Paint (Windows Accessory), and paste ScreenPrints to that and SaveAs jpg or png file for your future reference and to post here as attachment. See the attached "INPA Quickstart Tutorial" for how to view Functional Jobs Screen, and how to attach ScreenPrints.

George

[javi911]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

IF you have the patience to diagnose the issue, using INPA, and taking it a step at a time, you will (1) save money, (2) learn how to use INPA, (3) Learn some new concepts about how the various Modules and Systems work, and MAYBE, if you're LUCKY, actually fix it.

Conversely, if you randomly pull parts "Just to See WHAT Happens", you will wind up with a VERY expensive bill at the Indy.

Suggested PLAN:

1) Reinstall JBE if you have NOT already done so, BATTERY DISCONNECTED;

2) Try to identify the exact location of the "Buzzing" with particular attention to the upper-right corner of JB Fuse Panel (KL15 Ignition Relay);

3) If you can use INPA, do TWO Basic tests:

A) Functional Jobs > F4 Error Memory ALL Modules; that will generate two screens of fault codes; Save ScreenPrints of those two screens and attach here.

B) CAS > F5 > F2 > F1 Diagnose Terminals as described in detail in prior post.

Please use a photo editor, such as Windows Paint (Windows Accessory), and paste ScreenPrints to that and SaveAs jpg or png file for your future reference and to post here as attachment. See the attached "INPA Quickstart Tutorial" for how to view Functional Jobs Screen, and how to attach ScreenPrints.

George

Okay i managed to do all of what you recommended just now
The buzzing doesnt come from the top right 30G fuze its more where the JBE connects to. I only see that relay one and my wipers one. After connecting everything back up and odly enough, i have no buzzing noise but i still dont have fuel cap., cold ac, door locks, and dsc error.

These images are the status and error codes i have. I know some of the errors are bc i have no tpms sensor and i replaced my interior with red from an older car.

View post on imgur.com

View post on imgur.com

View post on imgur.com

View post on imgur.com

This video is when i did the voltage test of the CAS module.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntx-9CKPfsE

What i did notice is that the KL30G is on even without the key. I dont know whether thats bc m plugged in to the car or a fault in the system.

Thank you for all the help so far, i am learning a lot as we progress through this diagnosis.

[cole92ton]

Was this ever resolved?

I'm having the same issue. The clicking, that seems to be coming from the KL30g relay, happens only when I turn the car off after it gets hot. The relay chatters for ~10 seconds and then stops. DRLs & brake lights will occasionally stay illuminated. I don't have access to INPA at the moment.

[javi911]

Originally Posted by cole92ton

Was this ever resolved?

I'm having the same issue. The clicking, that seems to be coming from the KL30g relay, happens only when I turn the car off after it gets hot. The relay chatters for ~10 seconds and then stops. DRLs & brake lights will occasionally stay illuminated. I don't have access to INPA at the moment.

Hi, fortunately me and my dad fixed the problem not too long ago.

Backstory:
I had this problem for about a year, first thing i did was replace the battery with an AGM from costco for like $200 it stopped for a while but it came back in the Summer. My car didn't want to turn on anymore randomly. It wouldnt turn over, the lights would just illuminate and thats it. Scared the hell out of me lol. Wasnt driving anywhere so i didnt care to fix it for about a month. Got tired of using other family member's cars so I said F it and began looking into it again.

Process:
So I did a little more reading and decided it could be either the alternator or starter. I had already replaced the fuse panel, the jbe, the frm, and got a copy of my Cas lol.
My dad convinced me to go to the junkyard to get an alternator, i was just going to get a remanufactured one at my local shop. Got one, went home, removed my alternator and starter, then went to my local shop to get them all tested. Both alternators were bad. Luckily got warranty from pickapart so i got 95% of my money back, and they "gave" me a free oem wheel lock set haha.
The tech told me that it was barely giving any amps so even if the voltage was there, there wasnt enough amps to cover all the accessories so the battery wouldnt charge properly. And being BMW with all their modules, if the battery is low the car acts up.
With the starter, he told me it works but the bearings and bushings were dry. That they wouldnt pass the starter but it works.
Since my car was already disassembled, i just opted to buy both from them. I think it was like $77 for the starter and $145 for the Alternator.

In Conclusion:
I feel like it was the alternator that was the problem but i replaced both at the same time. Maybe the starter was draining my battery too who knows.

My Suggestion:
Depending on the age of your battery get it tested or replaced. Maybe its time. If not continue with the alternator getting it tested at a shop. AutoZone wouldn't test my alternator, i think because it was 180amps.
If you decide to reuse the bolts and not buy new ones just dont over torque them we just did it to where it locked up and a little more. Alternator is pretty quick to do too.

Also the people at the shop i went to ran a tap/dye through the threads of the remanufactured starter so my aluminum bolts wouldn't go in, stripped the hell out of it. They had to rethread my aluminum bolts I bought brand new from FCP


I wrote previously on this post my door locks, a/c traction control wouldnt work. Its because i took out a fuse and never put it back lol. Quite a brainfart lol.

Hope my write up wasn't too confusing. I'm happy to reply because it stressed me the hell out for so long. My car starts right up and ive heard no clicking since.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by cole92ton

... I'm having the same issue. [NOT really ] The clicking, that seems to be coming from the KL30g relay, happens only when I turn the car off after it gets hot. The relay chatters for ~10 seconds and then stops. DRLs & brake lights will occasionally stay illuminated...

If the "Chatter" is definitely coming from the 30G Relay, most likely the relay is slowly becoming defective, OR you have a corroded connection between the CAS and the Relay. That relay is SUPPOSED to stay on for some time after Engine STOP and key removal. The Relay Electromagnet Coil that "pulls-in" the contacts (what you hear chattering) is Activated by the CAS Module.

When the engine is running, and alternator charging, the system voltage is in the 14V range. When you STOP engine, the voltage drops to the 12V+ range, and if the relay coil is failing, OR if there is a corroded connection in the CAS Activation wiring (such as the connector at top-left of JB Fuse Panel), the electromagnet will NOT keep the relay contacts closed.

A replacement relay is ~ $20 for Genuine BMW, part# 61366901469, or get two for $20 from Amazon:
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/61366901469
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=BMW+61366...f=nb_sb_noss_2

If you would like a wiring diagram and tips on what to inspect/test & HOW, as far as the wiring and connectors between CAS Module & JB Fuse Panel, just provide the Last-7 Characters of VIN. The part#s above above are for my 3/2007 build 328xi E91, but SHOULD be same for your 20?? 335i/xi E92.
George

[tonynguyen]

Originally Posted by javi911

Hello, I've been having this constant issue with a buzzing/ clicking noise behind in my glove compartment fuse box. I've read around forums and reddit posts but cant find anyone having this same issue as me

When this first started, my exterior parking lights (angel eyes, 3 brake lights) and compass would stay on. The clicking happens either when i insert the key or press the 'start' button. When i remove the key, the buzzing starts, then it all stays on. It's almost like my car thinks i have the key inserted and i can turn the ignition on. All my windows, locks, lights, etc work fine it's just this issue. In order for me to turn off the lights i have to keep clicking the start button until the buzzing stops and the compass turns off.
I don't have comfort access.

I installed a new AGM battery today but the clicking still happens. I also ordered a new CAS Relay which should arrive in the next few days.

My next troubleshooting step is to send in my FRM3 to get repaired.

Anyone have any clue what is happening or any steps i should take in troubleshooting/ repair? First post thank you in advance to everyone <3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZ00...annel=JaviHabi

I see you updated the post as RESOLVED. So it was not related to the 30G relay or anything with the JBE? It was just due to the alternator/starter? The main reason that caused the clicking noise was weak battery?

[Rlequerica]

https://youtube.com/shorts/K9vxCN5QK-o?feature=share
Great post !
HERE IS THE LINK TO THE VIDEO

Plenty of solutions for some of us having similar situation !
Thanks very much.

Please help me to solve my problem.
Attached a picture showing the exact location of the vibration just a line below and left of the panel center.

Additionally the marked fuse blew after a week with the vibration; replaced it and blew again.

Now the car is misfiring snd failing to start ip

[PaulDarden]

I have reviewed all information in this thread and based on this I believe my CAS module is failing. I took my glove box out and can tell the relays in the CAS are what I hear clicking.

Some other issues head light, blinkers, brake lights flash when clicking, dash lights and hazard lights flash too. Some times the headlight rings, Amber's and/or brake lights stay on key out car locked. This drained my battery completely today, manually unlocked and jumped off the car, alternator recharged the battery.

Car is e90 n55, 330k miles, AGM battery is 6 months old, didn't register it, bought the car at 95k miles and have not replaced the alternator.

Need some advice from the pros if I should investigate further (in an electrician and have many very nice digital multimeters) or should I just buy a new