[E36powa]

Hello everyone!


Posting it here in hope for more respons


Car
: BMW 335i 2011 N55 with DCT

Mods
: CP and MHD Stage 1


Story:


I bought the car in January this year. From the beginning, I noticed the cranking time was a bit longer than what I was used to with other cars. Initially, I ignored it, but one cold night, the cranking time increased even more. I measured the battery under load, found it was bad, and replaced it, which resolved the issue.


Later, I got MHD and read the codes, finding two shadow codes: 2BDE and 2BF0. The car still ran great except for occasionally throwing code 2C01, always when hot.


I couldn’t find much information about these codes but decided to replace the fuel pressure regulator. This didn’t fix the problem. While investigating, I remembered that my logs showed I was 3-4 psi under the boost target. I pressure tested the system at 1 bar/14 psi and found no leaks. I also replaced two vacuum hoses to the boost solenoid: one from the valve cover to the solenoid and another from the solenoid to the wastegate.


Where the Real Problem Starts:


After reassembling, the car started right up. It had some codes due to the intake pipe removal and disconnected connectors during the pressure test. I cleared the codes and took a short drive. Upon returning, I checked for codes again and had some code that i dont remember but figured i should reset adaptations, thinking it might help if there had been a vacuum leak.


However, now the car won’t run at all. The RPM is erratic, it stalls, and the engine light comes on, showing VANOS-related codes. It throws either 2DA0/2C58 or 3011/2C58.


I cleaned the VANOS solenoid and cam sensors without success. I replaced the oil filter and ensured the cage was properly seated. which it wasent but it is now. I checked the vacuum hoses and boost solenoid multiple times with no improvement.


I removed the valve cover to inspect for issues, rotated the engine so the QR codes on the camshafts were pointing up, and both intake and exhaust seemed aligned. Without a timing tool, I couldn’t check 100%. I reassembled with new gaskets but still had the same problem. I swapped the intake and exhaust VANOS solenoids, and while the first start threw code 3012 instead of 3011, it still stalled and then threw intake codes again (3011).


Does anyone have any ideas on what to do next? Could the boost solenoid be causing this, as that’s what I was working on when the problems began? Or could it be a stretched or slipped timing chain? But why would that happen without any hard pulls?


Please help!


Here are 2 logs, One where it idles good but with check engine light and one log where it rough idle

https://datazap.me/u/hebbyn/cold-sta...og=0&data=4-15

https://datazap.me/u/hebbyn/rough-id...og=0&data=4-15

As you can se on the long log the intake vanos req and act does not match

[wrevilo]

Really detailed post!

I had codes 2BDE and shadow codes 2BEF and 2BF0 and replaced the LPFP and regulator. I am afraid I cannot add more than that...

[E36powa]

I think i found the problem!
Cleand the vanos solenoids one more time any this time i soaked them in wd40, blowed with compressed air and then brake cleaner. Put it back together and it started right up, and no check engine light!

When i log, both intake and exhaust vanos is very close to req, which they wasent before! Drove arround the block and it seems to work! Twi twi twi as we say here