[John 070]

That is the rear power distribution panel and the wire looks like it's for the Ibs....without it I don't think your IBS would function. Maybe it's your issue.....I almost wonder.....did you register this battery? Your Ibs prolly doesn't have any info now, but when connected, does it think you don't have sufficient starting current? Again, my thinking is to get to the root cause before replacing parts.....

[07lilredwagon]

Originally Posted by John 070

That is the rear power distribution panel and the wire looks like it's for the Ibs....without it I don't think your IBS would function. Maybe it's your issue.....I almost wonder.....did you register this battery? Your Ibs prolly doesn't have any info now, but when connected, does it think you don't have sufficient starting current? Again, my thinking is to get to the root cause before replacing parts.....

IBS: intelligent battery sensor, btw...

Seems like possibly, the sensor was not reset when the older batteries were replaced..or, it thinks the battery has low current...possibly.....do a google for IBS and see what you can find out.....

JP

[07lilredwagon]

Check out this thread as well:

Please Help If You Can by SHATX on this forum...he had very similar symptoms...ended up being his fuse box and the battery cable connection to it!...

Your car seems to fit within the build date times, though like mine may have been built a little early to have this problem...but all the cars this is affecting have not reported in yet....

I found the post VERY interesting reading...


JP

[DaFish]

Originally Posted by 07lilredwagon

IBS: intelligent battery sensor, btw...

Seems like possibly, the sensor was not reset when the older batteries were replaced..or, it thinks the battery has low current...possibly.....do a google for IBS and see what you can find out.....

JP

I have this issue too. OP, can you please tell me how you have fixed this?

Did you put in a BMW battery? Or an after market one?

I put in an after market one, apparently the same type... and it was registered, but I have your problem and I don't know how to fix it.

Please advise how you fixed this. Thanks

[cparke]

Originally Posted by ntubaro

Looking for help here... I went to go start my car today and nothing happened. I put the key in the slot, foot on the brake and hit the start button and nothing happens. I can't access the onboard computer or even shift the car out of park either. It's like my key doesn't belong to my car... We tried boosting it but still couldn't get anything. I'm wondering if anyone here has any idea whats going on. How much is it going to cost to repair this? Thanks in advance for your help.

I think I have the exact same problem now.

Really, it seems like the ignition won't switch on. I don't have to even try starting the car. It switches to accessory mode and the radio plays, but if you press START a second time, it just shuts off accessory mode. In this state, it's really bad, can't switch out of park nor connect diagnostic software, as both function require ignition to be turned on, which I can't do!

The battery is actually new and only 3 weeks old! The starter is 3 years old, but like I said, I'm not even trying to start the car at this point, just would like to get an error code or something to explain this behavior. Seems like the ECU has become bricked or something. I'm going to try disconnecting the battery to reboot the system and see if that helps, plus I'll check the fuses and see if all the current is flowing where it should. Any other suggestions?

[cparke]

UPDATE: Battery has very low voltage (like 11.1V). Nevertheless, car switches to ignition ON and even starts if I unplug the IBS from the power distribution outlet on top of the battery. I've removed the battery and am charging it out of the vehicle and plan to get it tested.

So, not the starter, and probably not the battery (although it may have undercharged or overdischarged). I also have a power converter and can energize the car electronics even without a battery installed. Powered up car with that after removing battery. However, still cannot switch ignition ON with the IBS connected. Resetting all module codes has not helped either.

So I'm wondering what else to check. Here are some ideas:
1) Terminal 15WUP test for short to ground. But where is that?
2) Terminal 15/30 relay test. But where are those?
3) IBS faulty? Clearly, the car knows if IBS is powered or not, so it must be communicating with DME. Just get another IBS and hope this was the issue? That doesn't sound very appealing to me, especially since I've read that software version of DME must match IBS. Something for dealer to do as a last resort, maybe.
4) CAS module faulty? I see no evidence of that, other than car isn't starting with IBS connected.

Suspicion: The car just had front struts and rear shocks changed by a shop. I'm pretty sure this was done without disconnecting the battery. If there is any wiring or connector under the trunk carpet or in the engine bay which could cause this kind of failure, that would be the first place that I'm looking for something not put back together properly.

Could use some help answering these questions, and any other thoughts or suggestions.

[F31B48]

Originally Posted by cparke

UPDATE: Battery has very low voltage (like 11.1V). Nevertheless, car switches to ignition ON and even starts if I unplug the IBS from the power distribution outlet on top of the battery. I've removed the battery and am charging it out of the vehicle and plan to get it tested.

So, not the starter, and probably not the battery (although it may have undercharged or overdischarged). I also have a power converter and can energize the car electronics even without a battery installed. Powered up car with that after removing battery. However, still cannot switch ignition ON with the IBS connected. Resetting all module codes has not helped either.

So I'm wondering what else to check. Here are some ideas:
1) Terminal 15WUP test for short to ground. But where is that?
2) Terminal 15/30 relay test. But where are those?
3) IBS faulty? Clearly, the car knows if IBS is powered or not, so it must be communicating with DME. Just get another IBS and hope this was the issue? That doesn't sound very appealing to me, especially since I've read that software version of DME must match IBS. Something for dealer to do as a last resort, maybe.
4) CAS module faulty? I see no evidence of that, other than car isn't starting with IBS connected.

Suspicion: The car just had front struts and rear shocks changed by a shop. I'm pretty sure this was done without disconnecting the battery. If there is any wiring or connector under the trunk carpet or in the engine bay which could cause this kind of failure, that would be the first place that I'm looking for something not put back together properly.

Could use some help answering these questions, and any other thoughts or suggestions.

Does your car have comfort access?

[cparke]

Originally Posted by EvaBmw

Does your car have comfort access?

I don't think so. Car doesn't have a remote starter button on the key fob, if that's what you mean.

UPDATE: I have fault code A111 (ELV voltage supply fault) stored in the CAS (Car Access System). There is a somewhat famous BMW tech article SI B 61 07 06 stating that when you have this code and these issues that I'm having, replace the IBS (Intelligent Battery System).

However, it's clear this is a network communication issue actually between the DME and the IBS. So I tried something a bit creative: I gave the IBS power but disconnected its BSD (Bit Serial Data) interface line. Ignition goes on of course, same as if IBS was disconnected from power. Then I plugged in the BSD. Lo and behold! On my next ignition cycle, the ignition came on! And it is working fairly consistently so far, including powering down the entire car and then re-energizing.

This could be just a temporary fix, and it could very well be an intermittent wiring issue at the IBS's BSD connector. I'm also still concerned how the new battery fell to 11.1V and if that caused this (I don't see any parasitic currents and the car is going to sleep properly). I guess the battery and alternator should be checked once I get the car running again. Nevertheless, I'm glad the IBS itself isn't toasted and I can be driving again (safely for my battery and car electronics) in the meantime.

[m9r9d9]

Hello, I hope you are doing well! My problem isn't this common, and although there are posts that are describing my problem nearly, it's not the same. Basically, I installed a module for CarPlay and RearViewCamera on my car and I was driving my it for couple of days and everything was perfect. Then I just parked went to bed and on the next morning, I inserted the key, no dash lights up, no iDrive lights up, can't even go to switch on the ignition upon pressing Start/Stop button. The computer on the dash is also not there, however, when I switch on the daily lights it switches on too, so it's working properly. It's like the key isn't "grabbed" when inserted in the ignition. I think that something might have been fried and I wanted to show you also. I have link to a uploaded video from today. Just for you to know, I have checked the battery, it's perfect. 100% full and Voltage above 12V. I have opened the Fuse Box and based on my scheme, I have checked all of the fuses that are connected to the Start/Stop button, they don't have any visible damage and I inserted them back on. Each time that I got one out and put back in, there was a "working" noise from the CCC Module. I feel hopeless, because I really don't know what to do. Please take a look at my video through the link and any ideas would be perfect.. By the way, I have also taken out the relay and will order a new one, but I didn't have a chance to tell, if it's gone or not...
Please assist?
VIN: wbawb71008p030899
Video of problem: https://files.fm/u/ajtf9tzfcr