[Salzamani]

Once the transmission warms up fully it gets harder to shift from first to second gear. Again only happens once the car fully warms. Anybody have this issue with the manual trans e90x? If so what fixed it?

[ctuna]

Try using the suggested redline flluid from the redline oil site.
It will usuaully be D4 or D6
redlineoil.com

There are many threads on this.
Try a search on Redline here

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...hlight=redline

[krhodes1]

The newish Redline MTL LV (for low viscosity) works well too. I have that in my 1-series and like how it shifts. For that matter, in a warm climate MTL works great too, but it will be hard(er) to shift in the cold.

But that said, getting HARDER to shift when the transmission is well warmed up is NOT normal. I don't think it's necessarily something to panic about though. And not much you can really do other than try a fluid change and see if that helps. Otherwise, you pretty much just need to wait for something to fail. I would suggest giving the clutch a GOOD bleeding while you are under the car anyway. I will stay out of the religious war that mentioning the CDV is likely to start.

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Try using the suggested redline flluid from the redline oil site.
It will usuaully be D4 or D6
redlineoil.com

There are many threads on this.
Try a search on Redline here

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...hlight=redline

Thank you my man 👍🏼

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by krhodes1

The newish Redline MTL LV (for low viscosity) works well too. I have that in my 1-series and like how it shifts. For that matter, in a warm climate MTL works great too, but it will be hard(er) to shift in the cold.

But that said, getting HARDER to shift when the transmission is well warmed up is NOT normal. I don't think it's necessarily something to panic about though. And not much you can really do other than try a fluid change and see if that helps. Otherwise, you pretty much just need to wait for something to fail. I would suggest giving the clutch a GOOD bleeding while you are under the car anyway. I will stay out of the religious war that mentioning the CDV is likely to start.

Giving it to me straight. I appreciate that!

[ctuna]

In the manual transmission car the brake fluid and clutch fluid
share a split fluid reservoir but it isn't that split . This means
to get new fluid in both they must both be bled. FYI.

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by ctuna

In the manual transmission car the brake fluid and clutch fluid
share a split fluid reservoir but it isn't that split . This means
to get new fluid in both they must both be bled. FYI.

Thanks for the heads-up 👍🏼

[Salzamani]

Update: I drained and refilled with Redline D6 I honestly don’t think I feel an improvement. Pretty noticeable that once the transmission warms up it is harder to shift into some of the gears specially 2nd. I notice that if I don’t try to go straight into 2nd from 1st another words just pause after coming out of 1st it does drop into 2nd more easily. Not very desirable when driving a stick ;(

[Salzamani]

@krhodes1 you mentioned stay away from the CDV discussions. I must admit it does strike my interest. So many people have reported that when they removed the CDV the results were quicker shifts specially gears 1-2. Am I missing something here? Isn’t that what my problem is? So many YouTube videos on this too. Specifically BMW manual transmission and their use of this CDV which for experienced drivers is useless the results being slower shifts when the CDV is left on.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

@krhodes1 you mentioned stay away from the CDV discussions. I must admit it does strike my interest. So many people have reported that when they removed the CDV the results were quicker shifts specially gears 1-2. Am I missing something here? Isn’t that what my problem is? So many YouTube videos on this too. Specifically BMW manual transmission and their use of this CDV which for experienced drivers is useless the results being slower shifts when the CDV is left on.

I've been driving BMW manual transmissions in the 3-series for 35 years and over 1 million miles. I took the CDV out of my E90 after some 250,000 miles just to see if there was a difference. I have a 1997 Z3 that did not have a CDV, and I drove an E30 for 18 years and 256,000 miles, it also had no CDV. I didn't notice any improvement in shift speed or quality with CDV delete in the E90. I've driven manual cars my entire life. A bunch of bunk in my opinion. BMWs have a rough 1-2 shift, especially at low RPM.

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I've been driving BMW manual transmissions in the 3-series for 35 years and over 1 million miles. I took the CDV out of my E90 after some 250,000 miles just to see if there was a difference. I didn't notice any improvement in shift speed or quality. I've driven manuals my entire life.

That really is my hunch too that it probably won’t give me the results that I’m hoping for. The reason is when I press the clutch and even wait a full second which would give plenty of time for fluid flow it still doesn’t really speed up the shift from 1-2. It isn’t until I start to pull the shifter down with continued force that the gate start to cooperate and allow the movement from 1-2. This force is greater than any manual transmission car that I’ve ever owned. I have found a work around though. If I don’t go straight down from 1-2 and instead once coming out of 1 move the lever slightly to the right in neutral and then quickly go back to the left and down to 2 then it is a smoother transition like that helps the gate to open.

Despite that evidence I can’t help but to hope that damn CDV might help improve things with not having to go though that process every time I want to shift from 1-2. Specially when I see all these people reporting in YouTube videos that removing the CDV is a must with these BMW’s for quicker shifts.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

That really is my hunch too that it probably won’t give me the results that I’m hoping for. The reason is when I press the clutch and even wait a full second which would give plenty of time for fluid flow it still doesn’t really speed up the shift from 1-2. It isn’t until I start to pull the shifter down with continued force that the gate start to cooperate and allow the movement from 1-2. This force is greater than any manual transmission car that I’ve ever owned. I have found a work around though. If I don’t go straight down from 1-2 and instead once coming out of 1 move the lever slightly to the right in neutral and then quickly go back to the left and down to 2 then it is a smoother transition like that helps the gate to open.

Despite that evidence I can’t help but to hope that damn CDV might help improve things with not having to go though that process every time I want to shift from 1-2. Specially when I see all these people reporting in YouTube videos that removing the CDV is a must with these BMW’s for quicker shifts.

If it's any consolation for you, my E90 transmission has 424,000 miles on it. 3 oil changes using MTF-3. The Z3 has 200,000. The Z4 is at 122,000 miles. The E30 transmission went 290,000 miles before I got rid of it. None had/have buttery 1 - 2 shifts.

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

If it's any consolation for you, my E90 transmission has 424,000 miles on it. 3 oil changes using MTF-3. The Z3 has 200,000. The Z4 is at 122,000 miles. The E30 transmission went 290,000 miles before I got rid of it. None had/have buttery 1 - 2 shifts.

“None had/have buttery 1 - 2 shifts” can you elaborate on what you mean by that? Are you saying they all shifted smoothly from 1-2?

Also MTF-3 is always refered to the BMW’s own brand of transmission fluid right? As I originally started this post I was trying to decide on a drain and fill on my tr fluid and some people here recommended the Redline stuff. I decided on the RedLines D6 ATF. The fluid that I drained seemed ok actually. So after I put the RedLine in there I honestly didn’t notice a difference. I do see people reporting these same types of issues when the wrong stuff is put in. But I went with the Redline stuff hoping it will actually help. So back to my point the problem might lie there in the Tr fluid and not as much with the CDV restrickting the clutch fluid flow.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

“None had/have buttery 1 - 2 shifts” can you elaborate on what you mean by that? Are you saying they all shifted smoothly from 1-2?

Also MTF-3 is always refered to the BMW’s own brand of transmission fluid right? As I originally started this post I was trying to decide on a drain and fill on my tr fluid and some people here recommended the Redline stuff. I decided on the RedLines D6 ATF. The fluid that I drained seemed ok actually. So after I put the RedLine in there I honestly didn’t notice a difference. I do see people reporting these same types of issues when the wrong stuff is put in. But I went with the Redline stuff hoping it will actually help. So back to my point the problem might lie there in the Tr fluid and not as much with the CDV restrickting the clutch fluid flow.

Back in the day BMW didn't sell MTF-3 in the 5L jug it does now. My first change I had to bring a 1 gallon bottle to my BMW dealership to get some from their 55-gallon drum. Lol. I'm there is an OEM equivalent to the BMW branded MTF-3. It's probably a Castrol product. The Redline product is supposed to help cold temperature shifting, rather than warm shifting. I did the Redline MTL oil swap in my E30 decades ago to improve cold shifts, it seemed to help a little bit. But honestly all my 5 BMWs I've owned had/have notchy 1 - 2 shifts. After all this time and miles, it feels normal to me. My only recent non-BMW manual experience is with my 2022 Bronco that has a (Chinese) Getrag in it, which is notchy in all gears as much as any BMW I have. Way before I was running a1st-gen Acura Integra along with the E30. The Acura was a tiny bit smoother, but it had cable shift linkages, which I found a bit dulled.

I will say the E90's trans at this point is very smooth shifting. Maybe it takes a few hundred thousand miles for it to break-in. 🤣🤣🤣

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Back in the day BMW didn't sell MTF-3 in the 5L jug it does now. My first change I had to bring a 1 gallon bottle to my BMW dealership to get some from their 55-gallon drum. Lol. I'm there is an OEM equivalent to the BMW branded MTF-3. It's probably a Castrol product. The Redline product is supposed to help cold temperature shifting, rather than warm shifting. I did the Redline MTL oil swap in my E30 decades ago to improve cold shifts, it seemed to help a little bit. But honestly all my 5 BMWs I've owned had/have notchy 1 - 2 shifts. After all this time and miles, it feels normal to me. My only recent non-BMW manual experience is with my 2022 Bronco that has a (Chinese) Getrag in it, which is notchy in all gears as much as any BMW I have. Way before I was running a1st-gen Acura Integra along with the E30. The Acura was a tiny bit smoother, but it had cable shift linkages, which I found a bit dulled.

I will say the E90's trans at this point is very smooth shifting. Maybe it takes a few hundred thousand miles for it to break-in. 🤣🤣🤣

Yeah I’m probably over thinking it. I’ll try some MTF-3. It’s possible one of the owners put the wrong stuff in it and made it a bit worse and me putting the Redline D6 didn’t help matters for warm shifts. So for the most part the notch 1-2 shift is pretty normal. I’ll report back with my findings after the MTF-3 fluid change so that this might help someone. Thanks for taking the time and explaining things very of you.

[krhodes1]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

@krhodes1 you mentioned stay away from the CDV discussions. I must admit it does strike my interest. So many people have reported that when they removed the CDV the results were quicker shifts specially gears 1-2. Am I missing something here? Isn’t that what my problem is? So many YouTube videos on this too. Specifically BMW manual transmission and their use of this CDV which for experienced drivers is useless the results being slower shifts when the CDV is left on.

It's a holy war subject on par with which oil to use.

My $.02 - I removed it from both of my cars. Can I tell a difference? Barely. I think it very much depends on your driving style. If you are a wannabe race car driver banging away at the clutch and shifter, it probably makes a lot more difference than if you are a laid back go with the flow type. My boy racer days are long behind me. I doubt it will make any difference, but it's easy enough to do. Take the delay valve off, punch the restrictor out with a hammer and a screwdriver, put it back, bleed the clutch. Which if you haven't done it in the last five years probably needs doing anyway. See if it helps. It probably won't.

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by krhodes1

It's a holy war subject on par with which oil to use.

My $.02 - I removed it from both of my cars. Can I tell a difference? Barely. I think it very much depends on your driving style. If you are a wannabe race car driver banging away at the clutch and shifter, it probably makes a lot more difference than if you are a laid back go with the flow type. My boy racer days are long behind me. I doubt it will make any difference, but it's easy enough to do. Take the delay valve off, punch the restrictor out with a hammer and a screwdriver, put it back, bleed the clutch. Which if you haven't done it in the last five years probably needs doing anyway. See if it helps. It probably won't.

On a 2011 E92 is there a need to punch a restrictor out? I believe it’s just the valve that has to be removed no? From what I have seen in videos the restriction is solely the pin hole within the valve which slows the fluid…. Or am I wrong?

[krhodes1]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

On a 2011 E92 is there a need to punch a restrictor out? I believe it’s just the valve that has to be removed no? From what I have seen in videos the restriction is solely the pin hole within the valve which slows the fluid…. Or am I wrong?

Technically, you can take the unit with the restrictor out and just connect the two bits of line together. But I would not do that, as the lines are no longer routed quite properly without the couple inch long unit in place. Maybe that is fine, maybe it isn't. It literally takes 15 seconds to knock the little plastic restrictor out, then just put the thing back. These cars have a tendency to be a tad bit fussy, no need to tempt fate any more than necessary.

It seems like a very German bit of over-complication, but I suspect that they used a different size of restrictor in different models of car, hence why it is just a little plastic thing pressed in there. Never bothered to do the work to check that theory though. Germans never do things for NO reason though.

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by krhodes1

Technically, you can take the unit with the restrictor out and just connect the two bits of line together. But I would not do that, as the lines are no longer routed quite properly without the couple inch long unit in place. Maybe that is fine, maybe it isn't. It literally takes 15 seconds to knock the little plastic restrictor out, then just put the thing back. These cars have a tendency to be a tad bit fussy, no need to tempt fate any more than necessary.

It seems like a very German bit of over-complication, but I suspect that they used a different size of restrictor in different models of car, hence why it is just a little plastic thing pressed in there. Never bothered to do the work to check that theory though. Germans never do things for NO reason though.

Ah ok. Thank you for clarifying that. None of the videos I watched showed that there is a pressed in plastic peace that can be removed. I’ll look for that because I agree it seems like pushing those hoses together does required some pulling on the hoses. You know I wouldn’t be surprised if that whole CDV has already been deleted by one of the previous owners. I only changed the transmission fluid. I never even looked for the valve while I was under there. I think I’m gonna do 2 things. Drain that fresh Redline fluid out that I had put in there a month ago and fill it back up with MTF-3. While I’m there I’ll look to see if that CDV is even there an if so I will try to stay strong and not touch it quite yet so that I can only make 1 change at a time so that I will know what made the biggest difference and report that back. Thank you for your help!

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

Ah ok. Thank you for clarifying that. None of the videos I watched showed that there is a pressed in plastic peace that can be removed. I’ll look for that because I agree it seems like pushing those hoses together does required some pulling on the hoses. You know I wouldn’t be surprised if that whole CDV has already been deleted by one of the previous owners. I only changed the transmission fluid. I never even looked for the valve while I was under there. I think I’m gonna do 2 things. Drain that fresh Redline fluid out that I had put in there a month ago and fill it back up with MTF-3. While I’m there I’ll look to see if that CDV is even there an if so I will try to stay strong and not touch it quite yet so that I can only make 1 change at a time so that I will know what made the biggest difference and report that back. Thank you for your help!

If you go the route of opening the clutch hydraulics, take my advice and buy a pressure brake bleeder to bleed the clutch line. It is nearly impossible to bleed the clutch with out a pressure bleeder.

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

If you go the route of opening the clutch hydraulics, take my advice and buy a pressure brake bleeder to bleed the clutch line. It is nearly impossible to bleed the clutch with out a pressure bleeder.

Oh wow! You’re not talking a one direction hose ha? A full pressure kit is what you’re saying. Not even if I have 2 people ha?