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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > E90 2006 Door Lock actuator (rear) - some questions



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      07-31-2024, 07:51 PM   #1
sabino56
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E90 2006 Door Lock actuator (rear) - some questions

Hi,
I have a 2006 E90. The rear passenger door will not unlock with the unlock button or fob. It locks with button and fob. I can unlock it manually by pulling on handle inside.

I got access to ISTA and there are no codes.
I checked fuses 56 and 57 - both are good and both 20amp. (I replaced them with 20amp fuses when I replaced the drivers door lock actuator many years ago).

Questions/curiosities
1) FCP only has front door lock actuators. I found a rear by Dorman on Autohaus which I don't want to buy. I've read thru some posts where it appears the front will work in the back without the child lock capability.
Just wanting to confirm that this is true for my year/model - 2006 E90.

2) I saw mention of "kits" which have two replacement actuators for less than one in years past. I don't see the same now. Just curious if anyone has recently seen better prices than $200 for the BMW one on FCP.

3) When I replaced my front one - I just pulled/replaced by figuring out as I went. I read thru the ISTA replacement procedure and it references some special tensioning tool you are suppose to use. Anyone know what that tool does/why it's used? It's listed on FCP but not cheap! something like $500.

4) Anyone ever figure out how to open one of these up? I assume there are 2 actuators or motors in there for lock and unlock. (At least the schematics make it look like that). I kept my old drivers door which had one direction failing and looked at it to see if any obvious way to take apart and try to swap actuator/motors. It doesn't look easy. So just curious if someone has done it and has a secret.

5) Not a question for a door lock thread but....when poking around in ISTA I couldn't find a place where it listed PNs for components. I ended going to RealOEM website. Are PNs in ISTA somewhere? If so - I'll spend the time to read the manual.....


Thanks!
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      07-31-2024, 08:15 PM   #2
Cal122
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The rear actuator on my 2006 just went out last week, same symptoms that you're experiencing. It's on my todo list.

For some reason, FCP doesn't list all applicable models, but the part numbers are below:
51227202147 - Left Rear
51227202148 - Right Rear

The package deal, which included two front actuators has unfortunately been discontinued, so you now have to buy individual actuators at the higher price.

One thing I saw, but haven't a chance to research is that new actuators may not be threaded to accept the existing screws. So you might need a tap/die in order to thread them to accept the screws.

Seems like they can be disassembled as I did see some repair kits with the plastic parts listed on Amazon/Etsy. Still debating to try that route, replace it with new and be done, or source a newer used one since the part number is applicable to certain F series models up to 2020.
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      08-01-2024, 10:30 AM   #3
sabino56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal122 View Post
TFor some reason, FCP doesn't list all applicable models, but the part numbers are below:
51227202147 - Left Rear
51227202148 - Right Rear
Thanks - I didn't see that, interesting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal122 View Post
One thing I saw, but haven't a chance to research is that new actuators may not be threaded to accept the existing screws. So you might need a tap/die in order to thread them to accept the screws.
I've read that the screws mounting the actuator are self tapping so you don't need to tap/die - but I may regardless just to make it easier.
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      08-02-2024, 12:18 PM   #4
lookalikehuuh
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The rear door actuators have cheap plastic gears internally that fail all the time. I've had to replace them on both of my cars a couple of times each now. I literally keep spares in the garage for when it happens. (Rear window regulators too for that matter). I wouldn't spend the time trying to repair the existing ones because in my experience they are all junk, be it the original BMW ones or even aftermarket ones.

You will have to fight the mechanism a bit to get the door open but the replacement is pretty easy. Screws will self tap, I recommend using a small drill, I used my small 1/4" Milwaukee drill and it worked great. You don't need any tensioner tool so forget about that idea.
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