[Nickco43]

BMW Multitool CAS 2/3/3+ Key Programing DIY

Warning: This is a very advanced DIY that involves working with a sensitive electronic system. Although this is the safest tool for working on our CAS system professional locksmiths have bricked cars with this. This guide is provided for entertainment purposes only and I will not be held responsible for any damage caused to your or another person’s car. If you have a CAS3+ and if it was updated by the dealer you will need to downgrade the software with an ICOM setup. That is beyond the scope of this DIY.

This DIY was performed on a 2006 BMW 330i with a white CAS 2 module. Other cars and CAS modules may differ in programming. It is up to you to make sure you with 100% certainty on what you are doing. I and many other locksmiths has used this tool successfully to program new keys for our cars. Cases of this tool bricking cars are not unheard of. If you want a key programmed with 100% safety then please visit to your local BMW Service Center.


What you will need:

1. Laptop running Windows XP 32bit
2. Virginized Key (I needed to move the fuse from LP to 315 to get my remote to work. Different regions run on different radio bands)
3. BMW Multi Tool
4. A working key
5. BMW Multi Tool user manual

Yes, the tool is $800. If you only need to make one key this is not worth it. If I was going to make just one key I would find a locksmith and pay $200 for a key. You need to be making two or more keys for it to be worth the investment in my eyes. Yes you could make a key with an Xprog, R270 or HITAG2 programmer but the failure rate on those devices is significantly higher.

Tool comparability guide:




Step One: Prepare your computer

Install all of the required drivers and software to get the tool working.

Step Two: Making a key file

Open the software up with the USB key and tool attached via USB.

Connect to the CAS over OBD2



Select “Make Key”



Select “Add Key”

For non CA cars it will ask you to insert a working key into the ignition



When prompted, remove the working key from the ignition and away from the car.

Select “Save Key info”



Save the info

Select which slot you would like the key to be programmed to.

Writing keys to any of the blank slots will forfeit your ability to go to the dealer to have new keys made. Whenever possible, write over the slot of your lost key. Your old key will not work if you find it.

I wrote my new key to Slot 8 as I will never go to the dealer for a key.

Select “Prepare dealer key with programmer”.



Select if the new key has Keyless GO (CA) or not. (I have not had a single aftermarket CA key work)



Make sure your new key is in the programing ring.

Hit “OK”.

The tool will program the key. It will prompt you to stick the key in the slot and start the engine.

If the key does not work, put the key into the programmer and select “Add Key”.

Verify that the key starts the car.

Exit out of the “Make key window”.

Select “Synch CAS-EVL”.

Exit out of the program and disconnect the tool.

Verify all key functions are working.

Done

[nate93]

Hey man,

I am interested in learning about this. I recently bought a FVDI, and founded out that is it garbage! it says that it would do CAS3+, mine is '11 E93. it has a CAS3++(ISTAP). Is there any difference between CAS3++(istap) and CAS3+? How do you if mine has been updated by the dealer? is any way to check with the firmware version? do you know anything about this?

Here is what I got from FVDI.

Looking forward to learn for you!

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by nate93

Hey man,

I am interested in learning about this. I recently bought a FVDI, and founded out that is it garbage! it says that it would do CAS3+, mine is '11 E93. it has a CAS3++(ISTAP). Is there any difference between CAS3++(istap) and CAS3+? How do you if mine has been updated by the dealer? is any way to check with the firmware version? do you know anything about this?

Here is what I got from FVDI.
Attachment 1942382
Looking forward to learn for you!

I never heard of a cas3++ before. Most likely you will need a icom to downgrade the firmware. I had a cas2 and I did not have to dealer with this.

[tdott]

I have a dealer ordered key that wasn't programmed for CA, it was a spare and I didnt want to pay for them to program it.

Can any of what you did help me program it to get CA to work with that key?

My main key is working fine with CA.

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by tdott

I have a dealer ordered key that wasn't programmed for CA, it was a spare and I didnt want to pay for them to program it.

Can any of what you did help me program it to get CA to work with that key?

My main key is working fine with CA.

This tool can code OEM and aftermarket CA keys.

[tdott]

If anyone can do this in South Florida, let me know.

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by tdott

If anyone can do this in South Florida, let me know.

I would mail your CAS to G coding

[AstroZ]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

[B]
Writing keys to any of the blank slots will forfeit your ability to go to the dealer to have new keys made. Whenever possible, write over the slot of your lost key. Your old key will not work if you find it.

I wrote my new key to Slot 8 as I will never go to the dealer for a key.

Thanks for this great DIY!

Just to check, if anyone adds any non original key to any slot, the dealer will not be able to create a key for the car? What if the dealer creates a key for slot 4..7 in your example, where you coded to slot 8?

What if I get a backup of the CAS eprom and flash using e.g. R270+ or VVDI prog?

[AstroZ]

Originally Posted by nate93

Hey man,

I am interested in learning about this. I recently bought a FVDI, and founded out that is it garbage! it says that it would do CAS3+, mine is '11 E93. it has a CAS3++(ISTAP). Is there any difference between CAS3++(istap) and CAS3+? How do you if mine has been updated by the dealer? is any way to check with the firmware version? do you know anything about this?

Here is what I got from FVDI.
Attachment 1942382
Looking forward to learn for you!

CAS3++ is the same as CAS3+ with encryption, for most tools this means you need an exsiting key or the ISN from the ECU to add a key.

[djbmw1]

Instead of using BMW Multitool you can also use HiTag2 and E/F Scanner (BMW Explorer clone) which will run you well under $200.

[sono0312]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

BMW Multitool CAS 2/3/3+ Key Programing DIY

Warning: This is a very advanced DIY that involves working with a sensitive electronic system. Although this is the safest tool for working on our CAS system professional locksmiths have bricked cars with this. This guide is provided for entertainment purposes only and I will not be held responsible for any damage caused to your or another person’s car. If you have a CAS3+ and if it was updated by the dealer you will need to downgrade the software with an ICOM setup. That is beyond the scope of this DIY.

This DIY was performed on a 2006 BMW 330i with a white CAS 2 module. Other cars and CAS modules may differ in programming. It is up to you to make sure you with 100% certainty on what you are doing. I and many other locksmiths has used this tool successfully to program new keys for our cars. Cases of this tool bricking cars are not unheard of. If you want a key programmed with 100% safety then please visit to your local BMW Service Center.


What you will need:

1. Laptop running Windows XP 32bit
2. Virginized Key (I needed to move the fuse from LP to 315 to get my remote to work. Different regions run on different radio bands)
3. BMW Multi Tool
4. A working key
5. BMW Multi Tool user manual

Yes, the tool is $800. If you only need to make one key this is not worth it. If I was going to make just one key I would find a locksmith and pay $200 for a key. You need to be making two or more keys for it to be worth the investment in my eyes. Yes you could make a key with an Xprog, R270 or HITAG2 programmer but the failure rate on those devices is significantly higher.

Tool comparability guide:




Step One: Prepare your computer

Install all of the required drivers and software to get the tool working.

Step Two: Making a key file

Open the software up with the USB key and tool attached via USB.

Connect to the CAS over OBD2



Select “Make Key”



Select “Add Key”

For non CA cars it will ask you to insert a working key into the ignition



When prompted, remove the working key from the ignition and away from the car.

Select “Save Key info”



Save the info

Select which slot you would like the key to be programmed to.

Writing keys to any of the blank slots will forfeit your ability to go to the dealer to have new keys made. Whenever possible, write over the slot of your lost key. Your old key will not work if you find it.

I wrote my new key to Slot 8 as I will never go to the dealer for a key.

Select “Prepare dealer key with programmer”.



Select if the new key has Keyless GO (CA) or not. (I have not had a single aftermarket CA key work)



Make sure your new key is in the programing ring.

Hit “OK”.

The tool will program the key. It will prompt you to stick the key in the slot and start the engine.

If the key does not work, put the key into the programmer and select “Add Key”.

Verify that the key starts the car.

Exit out of the “Make key window”.

Select “Synch CAS-EVL”.

Exit out of the program and disconnect the tool.

Verify all key functions are working.

Done

sorry this is a bit old thread but it is very useful to me.
I have read your CA retrofit project thread , and learned that you originally have Early CA key called KR55WK49143. did you create a new key with Chinese one you linked in this thread? Did you use OEM CA key which is a different FCC ID than originally you have?
do you think it is possible to clone a new CA key with the different FCC ID such as KR55WK49147?