[blackedout330i]

having a major issue. I am experiencing a longer than normal crank time and when it does start the rpms go from like 750 to 1100 over and over and over. Pedal doesnt do anything and when I drive (6 speed) its like autiomatically gassing but wont let me go past 1300ish rpms. I have to be in 6th gear to do 38 mph. I replaced the crankshaft sensor with a new one and still same issue. Im assuming there is a broken wire or something? I tried replacing throttle body and same issue. I put old throttle body on and same issue. I keep getting 2d07 & 2ac1 codes along with codes for my cat becuaase I have aftermarket headers on PLEASE HELP

[blackedout330i]

I have INPA btw. Also I've tried the throttle reset but i dont think it does anything for Manual trans cars

[blackedout330i]

help pls

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by blackedout330i

... Pedal doesn't do anything and when I drive (6 speed) its like automatically gassing but wont let me go past
1300ish rpms. I have to be in 6th gear to do 38 mph... I keep getting 2d07 & 2ac1 codes...

Since you have INPA, I would recommend that you view, Save & Attach the ScreenPrint attached Below:
The Menu Sequence or Path for my MSV80 328xi is as follows; Your MSV70 may differ:
INPA > DME (Engine | MSV70) > F5 Status > F2 Analog > F4 ADC Measured Values

The primary Values you are interested in are the Voltage values, at idle, for:
"Spannung Drosselklappe Potentiometer 1" = Voltage Throttle Valve Pot.1 &
"Spannung Drosselklappe Potentiometer 2". The total of those two voltages should be ~ 5.0V, or within
several hundredths of a volt (4.98 - 5.02V)

Observe the Voltage Values, & SAVE/ Post ScreenPrints at Idle, & different accelerator pedal positions.

If you are NOT familiar with INPA, see the attached pdf for basics, including HOW to save ScreenPrints.
George

[blackedout330i]

at full throttle

[blackedout330i]

at idle.

also here is when i clear the codes and start the engine. pops up instantly.

[blackedout330i]

When I dont clear codes for a few restarts these are usually there. I did a "detail" with extra info if that helps rather than the shortly list

[blackedout330i]

gbalthrop

[blackedout330i]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Since you have INPA, I would recommend that you view, Save & Attach the ScreenPrint attached Below:
The Menu Sequence or Path for my MSV80 328xi is as follows; Your MSV70 may differ:
INPA > DME (Engine | MSV70) > F5 Status > F2 Analog > F4 ADC Measured Values

The primary Values you are interested in are the Voltage values, at idle, for:
"Spannung Drosselklappe Potentiometer 1" = Voltage Throttle Valve Pot.1 &
"Spannung Drosselklappe Potentiometer 2". The total of those two voltages should be ~ 5.0V, or within
several hundredths of a volt (4.98 - 5.02V)

Observe the Voltage Values, & SAVE/ Post ScreenPrints at Idle, & different accelerator pedal positions.

If you are NOT familiar with INPA, see the attached pdf for basics, including HOW to save ScreenPrints.
George

If I drive without the codes cleared I found my drosselklappe voltage says 4.96v for the #1. So I'm guessing wiring issue?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by blackedout330i

If I drive without the codes cleared I found my drosselklappe voltage says 4.96v for the #1. So I'm guessing wiring issue?

As stated in Post #4, and as demostrated by the INPA ScreenPrint attached to that post, the TOTAL Voltage of Pot.1 & Pot.2 of the Throttle Valve (Drosselklappe), should be in 5.00V range. At idle, Pot.1 Voltage/Spannung should be LESS than 1.0V

If you look at your two ScreenPrints in Posts #5 & #6, your Total Voltage of Pot.1 & Pot.2 is between 6.4V & > 8.2V, and your Pot.1 Voltage is ALWAYS > 4V

You have wiring issues in the harness between the Throttle Valve & DME, OR an issue in the Throttle Valve itself. See ISTA ScreenPrints attached to NEXT Post for wiring diagram, Component Locations & Connector Views.

I would suggest disconnecting connector at either end (X6390 & X60005) and testing each wire using a Multimeter. I would begin with test of the two signal wires, A_DKG1, Yellow/Blue, & A_DKG2, Yellow, testing for BOTH Continuity of each wire, & also continuity to Chassis Ground & to each other.

Please ask if Testing suggestions are desired. Please let us know what you find. O2 Sensor codes are separate issue to address AFTER fixing Throttle Valve Issue.
George

[gbalthrop]

Attached are ScreenPrints related to Prior Post.
George

[blackedout330i]

Yes please let me know any testing suggestions.. all the o2 sensors are new 5k or less miles on them. So to check continuity I would unplug the harness from the dme and the throttle body. Then put one probe in 1 port of the throttle body connector clip and 1 probe at the other end dme side and it should beep letting me know. I'll test that asap.

In the meantime if you can think of any thing else to test while I'm doing thst feel free. I love my car.

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

As stated in Post #4, and as demostrated by the INPA ScreenPrint attached to that post, the TOTAL Voltage of Pot.1 & Pot.2 of the Throttle Valve (Drosselklappe), should be in 5.00V range. At idle, Pot.1 Voltage/Spannung should be LESS than 1.0V

If you look at your two ScreenPrints in Posts #5 & #6, your Total Voltage of Pot.1 & Pot.2 is between 6.4V & > 8.2V, and your Pot.1 Voltage is ALWAYS > 4V

You have wiring issues in the harness between the Throttle Valve & DME, OR an issue in the Throttle Valve itself. See ISTA ScreenPrints attached to NEXT Post for wiring diagram, Component Locations & Connector Views.

I would suggest disconnecting connector at either end (X6390 & X60005) and testing each wire using a Multimeter. I would begin with test of the two signal wires, A_DKG1, Yellow/Blue, & A_DKG2, Yellow, testing for BOTH Continuity of each wire, & also continuity to Chassis Ground & to each other.

Please ask if Testing suggestions are desired. Please let us know what you find. O2 Sensor codes are separate issue to address AFTER fixing Throttle Valve Issue.
George

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by blackedout330i

please let me know any testing suggestions...

I would test EACH of the 6 wires, one at a time, between the socket at X6390 & X60005. For instance, test for continuity (Near-Zero resistance/Ohms) in the Yellow Signal Wire, between X6390/4 & X60005/36. You should ALSO test each wire for "Short-to-Ground" by putting Red Meter Probe on Socket & Black Meter Probe on good Chassis Ground/metal. In that latter test you want an OPEN Circuit or "1". Low to Zero resistance indicates Short Circuit to (contact with) Chassis Ground. Also, you can test for short or contact between wires, by putting one probe on Yellow wire socket at 6390/4 & other probe on Yellow/Blue wire socket at 6390/1.

General Continuity/Ohms Resistance Testing:
B. Continuity, or “Near-Zero” Resistance:
1) You can use this test to see if a wire is damaged, by measuring Resistance (Ohms) between two ends of the wire, after disconnecting the Connector at either end. You can also use this test to see if the wire is “shorted-to-Ground”.
2) Test using an extension cord (DISCONNECTED) or a piece of wire.
3) Set Meter to Ohms/Resistance setting, a “mid-range” setting, such as 20k Ohms or 20,000 Ohms; turn meter ON. Ohms symbol is Greek letter “Omega” or “upside-down-U” on most meters.
4) Place One meter probe on one end of wire or connector socket, and other meter probe on other end of wire or connector socket. Ohms/ Resistance should be ~ .001 to .000 Ohms. The closer the value is to “0.0”, the LESS resistance to current flow.
5) You can practice by touching meter probes TOGETHER, and seeing the “Near-Zero” resistance, or by touching both meter probes to SAME piece of metal.
6) You can test for “Short-to-Ground” by touching wire connector socket with ONE meter probe, with OTHER meter probe contacting Chassis Ground. Value read should be “Near-Infinite” resistance, which is shown by numeral “1” on most meters.
7) REMEMBER: ALWAYS disconnect any wire you are testing for continuity or Short-to-Ground.

Manuals come with most Multimeters, explaining (often NOT too well ;-) how to make basic measurements. Voltage and Resistance (Ohms) are the most simple, and most Often-used, of those measurements. More sophisticated/ Expen$ive meters can read other things such as “Duty Cycle” or Frequency of PWM signal, Various levels of Current Flow (Amperage) in a wire by opening the circuit and having current flow THROUGH Meter (KNOW what you’re doing BEFORE trying that ;-). A “Clamp Meter” can measure AC or DC Amps via the Clamp, without disconnecting wires. Start simple and build your knowledge/ confidence/ experience.

George

[blackedout330i]

Would it be easier to use a clamp meter around the theottle.body wiring and see if voltage is going through while running? There are times when I hit a pothole or a dip that makes the car act strange. That's why I'm thinking it's the wiring. At this point I almost wonder if it's easier and cheaper to either re run the wiring for the TB with new wires/pins or just buy a complete engine wiring harness.

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

I would test EACH of the 6 wires, one at a time, between the socket at X6390 & X60005. For instance, test for continuity (Near-Zero resistance/Ohms) in the Yellow Signal Wire, between X6390/4 & X60005/36. You should ALSO test each wire for "Short-to-Ground" by putting Red Meter Probe on Socket & Black Meter Probe on good Chassis Ground/metal. In that latter test you want an OPEN Circuit or "1". Low to Zero resistance indicates Short Circuit to (contact with) Chassis Ground. Also, you can test for short or contact between wires, by putting one probe on Yellow wire socket at 6390/4 & other probe on Yellow/Blue wire socket at 6390/1.

General Continuity/Ohms Resistance Testing:
B. Continuity, or “Near-Zero” Resistance:
1) You can use this test to see if a wire is damaged, by measuring Resistance (Ohms) between two ends of the wire, after disconnecting the Connector at either end. You can also use this test to see if the wire is “shorted-to-Ground”.
2) Test using an extension cord (DISCONNECTED) or a piece of wire.
3) Set Meter to Ohms/Resistance setting, a “mid-range” setting, such as 20k Ohms or 20,000 Ohms; turn meter ON. Ohms symbol is Greek letter “Omega” or “upside-down-U” on most meters.
4) Place One meter probe on one end of wire or connector socket, and other meter probe on other end of wire or connector socket. Ohms/ Resistance should be ~ .001 to .000 Ohms. The closer the value is to “0.0”, the LESS resistance to current flow.
5) You can practice by touching meter probes TOGETHER, and seeing the “Near-Zero” resistance, or by touching both meter probes to SAME piece of metal.
6) You can test for “Short-to-Ground” by touching wire connector socket with ONE meter probe, with OTHER meter probe contacting Chassis Ground. Value read should be “Near-Infinite” resistance, which is shown by numeral “1” on most meters.
7) REMEMBER: ALWAYS disconnect any wire you are testing for continuity or Short-to-Ground.

Manuals come with most Multimeters, explaining (often NOT too well ;-) how to make basic measurements. Voltage and Resistance (Ohms) are the most simple, and most Often-used, of those measurements. More sophisticated/ Expen$ive meters can read other things such as “Duty Cycle” or Frequency of PWM signal, Various levels of Current Flow (Amperage) in a wire by opening the circuit and having current flow THROUGH Meter (KNOW what you’re doing BEFORE trying that ;-). A “Clamp Meter” can measure AC or DC Amps via the Clamp, without disconnecting wires. Start simple and build your knowledge/ confidence/ experience.

George

[blackedout330i]

I went and bought a clamp meter. Would I be able to put this around one wire of the throttle wires that run into the dme and intercept the signal and diagnose that way?