[Eriksson042887]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

clean them first. they often simply clogged

- 12v source with crocodile wire (9v battery not powerful enough)
- shoot brake cleaner while giving some momentary 12v until you ear the solenoid clicking good.
- wd40 and let it sit for a couple hours.

- optional ; engine oil flush liquid.

Did that on my engine and all good for more than a year.

I already cleaned them. All was good but light came back a week later. Already ordered em, will be here in a few hours hopefully. I’m confident in it being them because again when I swapped em it went from intake to exhaust. I know it will fix that but I don’t know if it will fix the rough cold starting. I will run engine flush on my next oil change.

[BRG_N54]

Originally Posted by Eriksson042887

GENUINE is $350
Pierburg is $160
Dorman is $100
UroParts is $70
I won’t buy no name ones.

Prices are each, looking towards the Dorman ones.

I know you already ordered them, but for future reference Pierburg is the OEM for that part. I would examine your new ones to see if the oil hole passages have chamfered openings, that seems to be the major visible difference. I opted for NTK from rock auto and they resemble the Pierburgs, externally.

[STATIC A$TRO]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

motivation can come back time to times.

At the point where you are, this is pretty beat up.

On any project, at one point you stop and re-think.

here what I would have done :

1- its ok to hire someone sometime. So a old guy from a machine shop can surely find a way. Yes might cost a towing, but sometimes asking help is good for health.

2- change the head, hard job, but after you'll be set. Also, not 100% sure you can do it while engine in the car. make sure you use the injector removal tool avoiding rounding up the bore.

3- cap it ( i dont know how) go full port injection. stupid idea, expensive, but will work.

4- low mileage engine swap, and ''while you're there'' turbo upgrade, or even single turbo . ( this is the route I went, but I had time and $). It's impressive how easy you can swap an engine, I did it on dolly and jack stands. No crane or fancy tools.

5- Huge stop, sell it as is (or part-out) and get a N52 328 will all goodies to get around 250-280bhp.


N54 are expensive as fck, easy to messup, has tons of small issues. But still a great engine when everything is done right.

here even Alex tell us so :

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/0_af2BPulpo

i remember when OD tried to warn me about these projects idea ...

[Eriksson042887]

Cylinder 1. That’s gas? My tech saying it’s soft carbon

[Eriksson042887]

Put in the new solenoids. Car is still in limp mode for boost pressure control. Wtf. Why is it giving exhaust vanos mechanism? Before it was exhaust vanos activation. And O2 codes? And a burning smell? I hate this car.

[oVeRdOsE.]

3100 is only limp mode because of something else.

wide band O2 in front might throw a 3100 code. Not so sure about the secondary O2.
You can use generic bosch O2 with the DIY connector kit, they are the same, a little bit more work, and wayyyy cheaper.

might be boost solenoid too.


Yes those engines are insane to maintain.

[whyzee125]

Does it start any better?

[Eriksson042887]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

3100 is only limp mode because of something else.

wide band O2 in front might throw a 3100 code. Not so sure about the secondary O2.
You can use generic bosch O2 with the DIY connector kit, they are the same, a little bit more work, and wayyyy cheaper.

might be boost solenoid too.


Yes those engines are insane to maintain.

I never heard of the DIY kit, that’s really cool. Thank you for showing me that. Gonna do all 4 next summer. Boost solenoids were replaced with known working ones last summer.

[Eriksson042887]

Originally Posted by whyzee125

Does it start any better?

Just started it. Nope, still shitty. It’s definitely leaking injectors. Don’t wanna deal with it for now. Gonna throw the car on the back burner for a year or two.

[Podunk]

Originally Posted by Eriksson042887

Just started it. Nope, still shitty. It’s definitely leaking injectors. Don’t wanna deal with it for now. Gonna throw the car on the back burner for a year or two.

The vanos solenoids also have little screens before the vanos solenoids in the side of the head, they are called one way check valves. did you remove and clean or replace these?

there is also another issue, and some have itr some don't, but there was a recall/warranty extension that is up now for the VANOS Seals on the cams, OEM used steel, the replacement is Teflon, if your cam ledges are too worn out FCP euro sells a kit with cam ledges/clam shells and seals, but it is NOT cheap. and i would have someone more knowledgeable perform this replacement as it requires special tools.

(the clamshell kit: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-11127531224kt )

You mentioned you removed injectors to do the valve cover gasket.. this is not needed, i removed my V.C. and replaced it with a bremmen aluminum one, without removing the injectors. you don't even need to remove the little metal tubes from the rail, just loosen them on rail side and remove from injector side and pull the whole thing out as one unit.

as for the injector bores, try putting your tool, injector and compressed seal into a freezer if you ever have to do it again, this causes everything to shrink.

but yes a small amount of lube is always a good idea, i also hope you replaced the crush seals at the same time. they are called "decoupling element"

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nt-13537564751

before going crazy on the injectors, the main issue they stick open is carbon, try adding two bottles of Sea Foam to the tank and running it though a tank to see what happens, sometimes you get lucky.

you also never mentioend how the intake valves look, and these are iknown for carbon build up, and needing a walnut blast of the intake valves to clean them up, ( port injection resolves most of this issue cause like old port injection, the fuel washes the valve, direct injection does not do this, so the result in almost any pure DI engine is the need to routinely walnut blast the valves diesels seem immune to this for some reason)

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by Eriksson042887

I never heard of the DIY kit, that’s really cool. Thank you for showing me that. Gonna do all 4 next summer. Boost solenoids were replaced with known working ones last summer.

universal bosch o2 : https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=748187


Sometimes putting a n54 on back burner for 2 y, make it worst...

[Eriksson042887]

Originally Posted by Podunk

The vanos solenoids also have little screens before the vanos solenoids in the side of the head, they are called one way check valves. did you remove and clean or replace these?

there is also another issue, and some have itr some don't, but there was a recall/warranty extension that is up now for the VANOS Seals on the cams, OEM used steel, the replacement is Teflon, if your cam ledges are too worn out FCP euro sells a kit with cam ledges/clam shells and seals, but it is NOT cheap. and i would have someone more knowledgeable perform this replacement as it requires special tools.

(the clamshell kit: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-camshaft-bearing-ledge-replacement-kit-11127531224kt )

You mentioned you removed injectors to do the valve cover gasket.. this is not needed, i removed my V.C. and replaced it with a bremmen aluminum one, without removing the injectors. you don't even need to remove the little metal tubes from the rail, just loosen them on rail side and remove from injector side and pull the whole thing out as one unit.

as for the injector bores, try putting your tool, injector and compressed seal into a freezer if you ever have to do it again, this causes everything to shrink.

but yes a small amount of lube is always a good idea, i also hope you replaced the crush seals at the same time. they are called "decoupling element"

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-decoupling-element-13537564751

before going crazy on the injectors, the main issue they stick open is carbon, try adding two bottles of Sea Foam to the [...]

I have never checked the check valves. I have heard about the cam ledge issues. But that would be last thing to check as it’s the most extreme. In that case I’m putting an LS3 in. I did not change the decoupling elements, you don’t need too, only the seals. I am going to buy 2 bottles of fuel injector cleaner. We will see what happens.

[Eriksson042887]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

universal bosch o2 : https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=748187


Sometimes putting a n54 on back burner for 2 y, make it worst...

It will make it worse. But I need to move on my new new E92. Will be here in a week.

[Eriksson042887]

[Eriksson042887]

Ok so I started it yesterday after 2 days of being parked and it started perfect! I was over the moon thinking that the car is done! Started it up today and it was misfiring on start up again! How is that possible?

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by Eriksson042887

Ok so I started it yesterday after 2 days of being parked and it started perfect! I was over the moon thinking that the car is done! Started it up today and it was misfiring on start up again! How is that possible?

fuel / air / spark.

At this point, I would do :

- reset all adaptation
- check spark plugs and coils again
- compression test (might gives you a good indication if injectors a seated properly )
- smoke leak test on the intake side
- injector leak/spray test (you can DIY this by getting the 6 injector out ; video check the whole video, he got rough start, might be same issue has you?)

[Podunk]

if he resets all adaptations, make sure you are essentially KOEO or Key on Engine off, basically have it powered up where the engien would be runnign if you held your foot on the brake/clutch, and then do a slow full compress on the accelerator pedal, and release, then turn off power, turn it back on and try to start.

i didn't do this the first time and didn't realize it would also reset throttle adaptations, car ran like shit and didn't respond to pedal inputs.