[spqr]

Hey everyone,

Looking for some help with an issue on my 2011 BMW 328i (base model). This has happened twice now—once a while back and again this morning. When I started the car, it began shaking, and the check engine light came on with an error pointing to the eccentric shaft sensor. The thing is, this sensor was already replaced by BMW under warranty not too long ago.

The first time it happened, I took the car to the BMW dealership, but they couldn’t pinpoint the issue. They gave me a list of possible causes and quoted an insane price for the repairs. They also mentioned that the error codes I was seeing weren’t “actual” codes, and suggested that the issue could be caused by my battery being too small for the car or by my aftermarket display.

I recently replaced the battery with a larger AGM H8 one (about a week ago), so I doubt that’s the problem anymore. After driving for a while, the check engine light disappears, and the car seems to run fine once it’s warmed up. Has anyone experienced something like this? Could the eccentric shaft sensor be faulty again, or could it be something else entirely?

Any help or advice would be appreciated!

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[Grease23]

Your oil filter housing gasket appears to be leaking a bit. An easy fix that avoids potentially catastrophic problems. Obviously not related to your issue.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by spqr

... 2011 BMW 328i ... When I started the car, it began shaking, and the check engine light came on with an error pointing to the eccentric shaft sensor... [Dealership] suggested that the issue could be caused by my battery being too small for the car or by my aftermarket display. I recently replaced the battery with a larger AGM H8... After driving for a while, the check engine light disappears, and the car seems to run fine once it’s warmed up...

Battery basically is required to Crank Starter to get the engine to run. If it does that, it is fine. Once engine is running, the Alternator is increasing system voltage to something in range of 14.0 to 15.0 Volts, & battery is being recharged, & acting as a "Buffer" for Alternator voltage output.

The Battery has NOTHING to do with your issue. Also, the H8 is LARGEST battery you can install in Battery Well.

Questions:
1) What is your "Battery Capacity Setting" & was previous battery an AGM Type?
2) What specific DME Fault Code(s) was/are read after SES light appeared?
3) What Make/Model Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software do you have available?
4) Can Tool/software display "Live Data", such as Eccentric Shaft Angle, Target & Actual?
5) Has the Valve Cover been removed recently?
George

[spqr]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Battery basically is required to Crank Starter to get the engine to run. If it does that, it is fine. Once engine is running, the Alternator is increasing system voltage to something in range of 14.0 to 15.0 Volts, & battery is being recharged, & acting as a "Buffer" for Alternator voltage output.

The Battery has NOTHING to do with your issue. Also, the H8 is LARGEST battery you can install in Battery Well.

Questions:
1) What is your "Battery Capacity Setting" & was previous battery an AGM Type?
2) What specific DME Fault Code(s) was/are read after SES light appeared?
3) What Make/Model Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software do you have available?
4) Can Tool/software display "Live Data", such as Eccentric Shaft Angle, Target & Actual?
5) Has the Valve Cover been removed recently?
George

Hi George,

Thank you so much for trying to help me out.

After writing a post here, I decided to consult with a couple of local mechanics to get their opinions. Interestingly, they pointed to different possible issues. The first mechanic said it was a timing chain problem and quoted me $2,000 to fix it. The second mechanic spent more time on diagnostics and tried using different tools to scan the car and read live data, but unfortunately, his devices didn’t seem capable of showing live data. His conclusion was that the problem lies with the Valvetronic motor. He mentioned that he could replace the Valvetronic motor, but it needs to be calibrated after installation, and according to him, the only place that can do that properly is BMW because only they have the necessary device. I’m not sure if that’s true. For context, the eccentric shaft sensor itself was already replaced by BMW a while back.

To answer your questions (and I apologize if I misunderstood any):

1. I currently have an Interstate H8 AGM battery with a capacity of 90Ah, which has been registered and programmed using BimmerCode. The previous battery was not AGM. The issue occurred once with the old battery and once with the new one, so I doubt it's battery-related.
2. I’m attaching a screenshot of the current error codes. The first time this happened, the SES (Service Engine Soon) light disappeared after driving, but now it stays on.
3. Unfortunately, I only have access to the Car Scanner app for diagnostics.
4. This app displays some live data, but I’m unsure if it provides all the necessary information. I'll need to take a closer look.
5. The valve cover has never been removed during the time I’ve owned the car.
Thanks again for your help

[gbalthrop]

The three Fault Codes, P1006, P1014 & P1017 all relate to the Signals received by the DME from the ESS (Eccentric Shaft Sensor). The "Misfire Faults are Probably Secondary to (caused by) the ESS issue. Random misfires, particularly if they result in Injector Shutdown, will cause rough idle, but that goes away in ~ one minute if the misfire no longer occurs.

If the ESS has recently been replaced, it is possible that there is an Intermittent wiring fault in the wires between the Sensor Connector (X60253) and the DME Connector X60007.

It is also possible that the seal around the perimeter of the ESS and the Valve Cover is allowing oil to leak into the sockets of the ESS. So the FIRST thing I would do is remove the Engine/Coil Cover, disconnect the 9-pin X60253 Connector, & inspect carefully for oil in the ESS sockets. If oil is present, carefully inspect the circular seal around the ESS, inside the VC perimeter, and see if that seal appears to be leaking. The ESS can also develop internal leakage, requiring replacement. The Seal can be replaced WITHOUT removing the VC.

If oil is found in the ESS Sockets, clean away the oil as best you can, using paper towels, Electronic Contact Cleaner, etc. & see if symptoms are improved.

If the ESS was replaced, that required removal of the Valve Cover. If someone else did that, please check any records/invoice you may have related to that.

I will attach, to NEXT Post, ISTA ScreenPrints of the wiring and Connector information for the ESS connector & wiring, for your 2011 328i (N52?) Please let me know if you need testing suggestions with a Multimeter. A Cheap $10 multimeter (DMM) from Amazon or HFT is all you need.

As for the three fault codes, see the links below for the three codes, in order listed above. P1006 is same as Decimal Code 10801, & P1014 is same as Decimal Code 10802. Here are Fault Information Sheets (see "Service Notes") for P1006, P1014 & P1017:
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...E4NjM5MDIwNQ==
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...E4NjM5MDEwNQ==
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...E4NjM5MDcwNQ==

If your Scan Tool can display Live Data, we want to see either or BOTH:
1) Eccentric Shaft Angle, which should be in Range of ~45 degrees with ignition ON, Before Engine Start, & falling to ~ 20 to 23 degrees as engine warms, ON Idle (not pressing Accelerator).

2) Target or Setpoint (Sollwert) Angle -- the angle requested by DME, which should be within a tenth or two of one degree of actual angle.

Live Data Values DIFFERING significantly from above, and WHEN, How Long, those deviations occur, will give CLUES as to what to test with DMM.

Please let us know what you find, either in inspecting the ESS Connector, Live Data view, or wire testing.
George

[gbalthrop]

Attached are ISTA ScreenPrints related to prior post & 2011 328i, N52, ESS wiring & connectors.
George

[spqr]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Attached are ISTA ScreenPrints related to prior post & 2011 328i, N52, ESS wiring & connectors.
George

Hi George,

Sorry for disappearing! I got banned for no reason, but everything’s sorted now. Thanks so much for your detailed explanation. Unfortunately, this isn't something I can tackle on my own, but I'll definitely show your response to my mechanic. I could do it myself, but the weather and the area I live in don’t really allow for that.

George, it actually happened again yesterday. I’m attaching a new screenshot of the codes I got, but from a different app this time. Also, I saw a YouTube video where someone mentioned that the valvetronic shaft motor could act up when it’s cold or wet. Do you think the motor could be the culprit?

Interestingly, this morning was also pretty chilly, and last night was rainy, so I was expecting the car to shake again—but it didn’t happen. I’ve also read a lot of posts on this forum where people suggested replacing the injectors. What do you think about that possibility?

Also, do you have any recommendations for a tool that shows live data? My current app displays live data, but I don't think it shows anything related to the valvetronic motor.

I’m planning to go to my mechanic tomorrow.

Thanks again for all your help!

The picture below shows the codes I got yesterday.

[spqr]

Update: This morning was even colder (59°F), and the car still didn’t shake. It seems to happen mostly when the car sits for more than a day, at least from what I’ve observed.