[BavariasMostWanted]

Hello everyone,

I have an '06 330i that I've owned for about 90k miles now. Just recently hit 150k with a solid drive-train and a slew of electronic problems. This is the most pressing of them....any and all advice would be GREATLY appreciated.

Two months ago my car blows the plastic coolant bypass(?) fitting by the OFH at idle. No problem, compression test was good, fitting was easy enough to R&R.

Checked DTC's, one present- 2EFE Electric Fan, No Activation. With this code present I did some research, checked fuses, tried unplugging the coolant sensors, hitting the A/C button as some others have tried, attempted to activate the fan with INPA, even tried replacing the fan with an OEM from the dealer and another from a Pick Ur Part to no avail.

It seems like most everyone with this issue replaces the fan and calls it a day...

Anyway, I brought it to a local ind. BMW tech last week and the tech showed me this picture (attached below) telling me the JBE module was not making a connection with the fan itself. Supposedly he was able to activate the fan and verify that it operates. I replaced the JBE with an identical "H1" unit out of a similar e90 and even tried another module with the same markings but I'm still getting 2EFE. (I barely know how to use ISTA+ and I must have botched the install, so I'm stuck in the mud trying to get to where he was...)

I'd like to mention my coolant temp never rises over 175f while moving, maybe the thermostat is stuck/set open from overheating or due to the DTC?

I am so lost at this point and with how much the car is worth, I'd rather not go to a dealer and shell out what they want.

Thank you for taking the time to read this.

[dpaul]

Although it is implied, you never actually mentioned if the fan operates under any condition, only that the coolant temp is low while driving and that you couldn't activate the fan with INPA. So #1, does the fan come on during extended idling or not?

The picture the tech showed you does not say anything about whether JBE can 'communicate' with the fan - it's a wiring diagram of the connections between JBE and the fan. In fact, the fan does not 'communicate' with the JBE - it gets power from the power distribution box, associated with the JBE. The fan 'communicates' with the DME (i.e. gets signals that control its speed)

Here's a more complete diagram of the fan wiring:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/i7SHdY5

So, #2, since you don't explicitly mention it, did you check fuse F69 (given by newtis.info as 50 or 60A)?

I'll assume that a) you always try clearing the codes after making a component change, b) that the fuse is OK and c) that both the fan and the JBE are OK since you've replaced them.

Let's leave the 'low temperature while driving' symptom aside for the moment. That leaves the most likely possibility of a bad connector or broken wire. As you can see from the newtis diagram, there are only three wires to be concerned about: the control signal wire from the DME pin 8 to the fan pin 2 or 4 (depending on fan type - blue-black wire); the fan ground pin 1 (brown); power from the JBE to the fan pin 2 or 4 (depending on fan motor type -heavy red or red/blue wire).

Get a multimeter and check continuity of pin 1 to ground and whether there is 12v on pin 2 or 4. Since the diagram indicates that the fuse is supplied by 'terminal 30', there should be 12v at the fan whether the ignition is on or off.

If both those are OK, you'll have to go into the DME box to check continuity on the signal wire. But check the others first - they are easy, all you have to do is disconnect the plug from the fan. No disassembly required

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by BavariasMostWanted

...'06 330i that I've owned for about 90k miles now...Two months ago my car blows the plastic coolant bypass(?) fitting by the OFH at idle. No problem, compression test was good, fitting was easy enough to R&R. Checked DTC's, one present- 2EFE Electric Fan, No Activation. With this code present I did some research, checked fuses, tried unplugging the coolant sensors, hitting the A/C button as some others have tried, attempted to activate the fan with INPA, even tried replacing the fan with an OEM from the dealer and another from a Pick Ur Part to no avail. [Do you mean the Fan or its replacements has NEVER run since the 2EFE Fault Code appeared ~ 2 months ago?] ...

Anyway, I brought it to a local ind. BMW tech last week and the tech showed me this picture (attached below) telling me the JBE module was not making a connection with the fan itself. [I HOPE you simply misunderstood him, as the JBE (Junction Box Electronics) Module has NOTHING to do with E-Fan power supply (from F69 on JB Fuse Panel) or Control by the DME, all as shown in circuit diagram below]...

Did you have the Blower Motor Wiring Harness Recall performed several months ago by any chance? You would NOT be the first person to have had your Red/Blue wire from Junction Box F69 (in your model) mistakenly removed in that recall. That Red/Blue wire provides power to Pin #2 of Connector X1797 (presuming you have 600W Fan) at the fan. So no matter WHAT fan unit you attach to that connector, it is NOT getting any power.

TIS circuit diagram for 2006 330i Cooling System and E-Fan (M9):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/i7SHdY5

As dpaul has suggested, simply disconnect the Electrical Connector from the Fan Unit (no need to remove fan). Then identify the three wires connected to the Connector. There should be two THICK wires: Red/Blue Power supply, and Brown ground. There is a third wire, much thinner, which is the Control wire from the DME, and it is Black/Blue. If you have the 600W Fan, the Connector should be X1797 (X82 if 400W Fan) and it should be found at the Installation Location shown in the following link, and the Connector View should be as shown in the 2nd link:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/2c5r7h9m
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/CTKpbtQP

Now using a DMM (Multimeter), check for 12V+ at Pin #2. That SHOULD be battery power, but if you get NO voltage with ignition off, double-check to make sure no one has changed the original wiring to make power supply "ignition-switched." If there IS voltage at Pin #2, check continuity of Pin #1 (Brown wire) to ground.

After checking for voltage and ground at the Fan Connector, let us know what you found (and when you had the Recall performed ;-) and we can suggest next steps.

George

[BavariasMostWanted]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Although it is implied, you never actually mentioned if the fan operates under any condition, only that the coolant temp is low while driving and that you couldn't activate the fan with INPA. So #1, does the fan come on during extended idling or not?

The picture the tech showed you does not say anything about whether JBE can 'communicate' with the fan - it's a wiring diagram of the connections between JBE and the fan. In fact, the fan does not 'communicate' with the JBE - it gets power from the power distribution box, associated with the JBE. The fan 'communicates' with the DME (i.e. gets signals that control its speed)

Here's a more complete diagram of the fan wiring:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/i7SHdY5

So, #2, since you don't explicitly mention it, did you check fuse F69 (given by newtis.info as 50 or 60A)?

I'll assume that a) you always try clearing the codes after making a component change, b) that the fuse is OK and c) that both the fan and the JBE are OK since you've replaced them.

Let's leave the 'low temperature while driving' symptom aside for the moment. That leaves the most likely possibility of a bad connector or broken wire. As you can see from the newtis diagram, there are only three wires to be concerned about: the control signal wire from the DME pin 8 to the fan pin 2 or 4 (depending on fan type - blue-black wire); the fan ground pin 1 (brown); power from the JBE to the fan pin 2 or 4 (depending on fan motor type -heavy red or red/blue wire).

Get a multimeter and check continuity of pin 1 to ground and whether there is 12v on pin 2 or 4. Since the diagram indicates that the fuse is supplied by 'terminal 30', there should be 12v at the fan whether the ignition is on or off.

If both those are OK, you'll have to go into the DME box to check continuity on the signal wire. But check the others first - they are easy, all you have to do is disconnect the plug from the fan. No disassembly required

1. the fan does not operate at all, and the vehicle reaches over-temp when idling. 2. The 60 amp fuse at f69 is okay. Your assumptions A,B,C are correct. I will check the wiring when I get home in about an hour and report back.

[BavariasMostWanted]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Did you have the Blower Motor Wiring Harness Recall performed several months ago by any chance? You would NOT be the first person to have had your Red/Blue wire from Junction Box F69 (in your model) mistakenly removed in that recall. That Red/Blue wire provides power to Pin #2 of Connector X1797 (presuming you have 600W Fan) at the fan. So no matter WHAT fan unit you attach to that connector, it is NOT getting any power.

TIS circuit diagram for 2006 330i Cooling System and E-Fan (M9):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/i7SHdY5

As dpaul has suggested, simply disconnect the Electrical Connector from the Fan Unit (no need to remove fan). Then identify the three wires connected to the Connector. There should be two THICK wires: Red/Blue Power supply, and Brown ground. There is a third wire, much thinner, which is the Control wire from the DME, and it is Black/Blue. If you have the 600W Fan, the Connector should be X1797 (X82 if 400W Fan) and it should be found at the Installation Location shown in the following link, and the Connector View should be as shown in the 2nd link:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/2c5r7h9m
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/CTKpbtQP

Now using a DMM (Multimeter), check for 12V+ at Pin #2. That SHOULD be battery power, but if you get NO voltage with ignition off, double-check to make sure no one has changed the original wiring to make power supply "ignition-switched." If there IS voltage at Pin #2, check continuity of Pin #1 (Brown wire) to ground.

After checking for voltage and ground at the Fan Connector, let us know what you found (and when you had the Recall performed ;-) and we can suggest next steps.

George

I did not even think of this. The very day I got home after having this recall performed, my high temp light came on with the 2efe code, but the service advisor at Rusnak BMW assured me it could not have possibly been related. Not only this, but the steptronic has not worked since the same visit (with the same answer from the advisor).

I will check the wiring in a bit when I get home and will report back. Thank you for bringing this to my attention!

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by BavariasMostWanted

I did not even think of this. The very day I got home after having this recall performed, my high temp light came on with the 2efe code, but the service advisor at Rusnak BMW assured me it could not have possibly been related...

As I stated, you are about the third or fourth person on this Forum or Bimmerfest who has reported such a problem immediately AFTER the performance of the Blower Motor Harness Recall. Attached is RCRIT-17V676-0612. Note the photo at bottom of page 7, and the CAUTION at bottom of page 8 related to the Red/Blue wire. That Connector identified by the arrow at the bottom of page 7 is X11008 which is located on the forward or firewall side of the JB Fuse Panel, requiring removal of the panel to access that connector. Here is the "Connector View" of the "6-pin Connector", X11008:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/CT40wfG5

They removed the WRONG WIRE. Refer the SA to the RCRIT after familiarizing yourself with the procedure the tech had to try to follow. You can easily see how the Tech could make such a mistake, and the fact that overheat & code occurred immediately AFTER recall procedure is MORE than a coincidence.

George

[BavariasMostWanted]

DePaul, Gbalthrop, I checked and had continuity from 1 to ground, no voltage from power (pin 2) to ground though.

Thank you VERY much George, wish me luck at the dealer tomorrow.

[BavariasMostWanted]

Okay new update. Yesterday it was a seriously grueling battle with the dealership and BMW NA but they finally admit to it being their fault and they fixed it. With it came regular temps, A/C works and for whatever reason steptronic works again.

Only problem...... at least one light in EVERY exterior fixture is out! Fuses good bulbs are not blown. What the actual f***. Service manager blew me off when I showed him but I’ll talk with BMW NA I guess

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by BavariasMostWanted

...they finally admit to it being their fault and they fixed it. With it came regular temps, A/C works and for whatever reason steptronic works again. [It's NOT a matter of "FAULT", it's a matter of a Tech working on the clock making an honest MISTAKE, which, if you read the RCRIT I provided, pages 7 & 8, ANYONE could easily make. Suggestion going forward: DITCH the DJT "Zero-sum" or "I only win if YOU LOSE" approach and simply present compelling facts -- usually documents like the RCRIT & TIS circuit diagrams. ]
Only problem...... at least one light in EVERY exterior fixture is out! Fuses good bulbs are not blown. What the actual f***. Service manager blew me off when I showed him but I’ll talk with BMW NA I guess

SHORT ANSWER:
If you need assistance from the Forum in identifying possible ways Dealer's "Friday Repairs" have now caused "Exterior Lighting Faults", we can only attempt that assistance IF you provide info on WHAT was done Friday by Dealer and specifically identify WHAT is NOT functioning properly NOW:
1) Please scan and save Friday Dealer Invoice/Statement as pdf or jpg, and attach that scan file here so we can see what it states was done.
2) Please identify EACH specific bulb that is NOT lighting, and whether that lighting fault is constant or intermittent, and any conditions related to fault.
3) If you have an Bulb Fail Warning (Check Control CC-ID codes) please provide those codes.
4) If you have any Fault Codes (in FRM Module Memory) you are able to read with proper Scan Tool or Software, please identify those Codes.

RATIONALE:
While "to err is human", some humans err more frequently than others.
Each person has to develop his own "Method" for dealing with that fact. When it comes to cars, my approach is to DIY and NOT "Roll the Dice" or "Pay the Price" and have someone else work on my car. Unfortunately a Manufacturer or Dealer is required by law to perform ALL recall procedures, and to certify to NHTSA that the steps required of them by the mandatory recall procedure were each performed, from notice to completion. So even DIY addicts like me can't just get the replacement harness from the Dealer and follow the RCRIT. One HAS to "Deal" with the Dealer on recalls.

I assume you mean that there were NO issues with any exterior lighting BEFORE your visit to Dealer yesterday, but there ARE certain issues NOW? If so, I would suggest doing what ANY competent professional (physician, lawyer, engineer) does to solve a problem: Assemble/ Subpoena / Review the DOCUMENTS. It is nearly ALWAYS safe to assume that if something (B) was working properly BEFORE someone "fixed" "Problem (A)", but NOT working properly AFTER the "fix" of (A) was performed, that an error was made during "Fix" of (A) which NOW makes (B) NOT work properly. That is in fact the assumption you correctly made after Dealer's Tech erred in performance of the Recall, but you didn't have the "Documentary Evidence" until yesterday, at which point Dealer "saw the light."

It is also safe to assume that Employer of "someone" will try to deny $responsibility$ unless you can calmly and logically (usually with DOCUMENTARY EVIDENCE) explain what happened when "someone" had custody of YOUR vehicle and attempted to FIX "Problem A". In other words, YOU (perhaps with assistance from some kind sole on the Forum) need to determine likely ways Dealer Tech YESTERDAY did something to CREATE "Problem B" while correcting "Problem A" (disconnected Red/Blue wire at Connector X11008).

So if you will provide the information requested above, we can see if we can provide you with "Documentary Evidence", based upon TIS circuit diagrams, as to WHAT ERROR might have caused your current lighting failures. Possible causes:
1) One of the four (4) fuses powering the FRM is blown, damaged or dislodged; you can quickly check those fuses as identified in the link below (F36, F41, F52, F53)
2) Disconnection of a Chassis Ground that affects multiple bulbs.

It would be logical to assume that the Dealer Tech on FRIDAY removed the JB Fuse Panel to properly attach a Power Supply wire for the E-Fan to Connector X11008 on the firewall side of the JB as shown in the RCRIT previously provided. Footwell Module (FRM) schematic showing Fuses and Power supply to various bulbs, but NOT chassis grounds or complete socket/connector wiring:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...module/r6wjBLF

George

[BavariasMostWanted]

I'd like to start off by thanking you, sincerely, for your help George, it is greatly appreciated.

This has been an expensive and stressful experience thus far. I familiarized myself with and provided the RCRIT to the SA and SM. I'm sure you can understand my state of mind in this situation. I've only ever visited a dealer for a recall. Anything else, barring these intense electrical issues, I leave in my own hands.

To address your 'short answer' points...
2) Current bulbs out include the following:
Front- left fog, right low/high-beam, right blinker, left DRL
Left sidemarker
Rear- right Park lamp (usually brake lamp with lights off), left reverse lamp, left blinker, both license lamps
Interior- Radio button lights (I don't have iDrive) lock/DTC buttons, and headlight switch lights are out.
(Note: the Halos are out but they were out before my Friday visit. Also, I have verified all affected bulbs have a solid filament and are not receiving power, less the interior lights.)
3) 1 fog lamp warning, 1 low-beam warning, and 10 regular 'lamp out" warnings
4) ISTA shows the only FRM code as being, "9CAA Terminal 30B connection faulty."



Before the dealer visit there were only two lights out, the halos, which showed on my dash and on the SA's key scan. There is 'documentary evidence' of this issue, to an extent. I say that because the SA's paperwork shows the fault codes and CC messages through a key-fob scan from Friday. It clearly shows two separate "bulb out" lines and I would assume that if they were to scan the key now, it might show that the other 8 lamps+2 main lamps are out.

Regarding the newtis link, honestly I am very unsure of how to read any of that besides pins and wire color.......although it is helpful.

Thank you for all of your effort and assistance!

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by BavariasMostWanted

...
2) Current bulbs out include the following:
Front- left fog, right low/high-beam, right blinker, left DRL, Left sidemarker, Rear- right Park lamp (usually brake lamp with lights off), left reverse lamp, left blinker, both license lamps;
Interior- Radio button lights (I don't have iDrive) lock/DTC buttons, and headlight switch lights are out...
(Note: the Halos are out but they were out before my Friday visit. Also, I have verified all affected bulbs have a solid filament and are not receiving power, less the interior lights.)
4) ISTA shows the only FRM code as being, "9CAA Terminal 30B connection faulty."

It appears that Dealer Tech on Friday made a similar error in attempting to correct the intial April error, and that error is caused by incorrect identification of the Connector on the firewall side of the JB, due to SIGNIFICANT differences in YOUR 2006 JB as compared to all JB used in models built 3/1/2007 onward (the majority of units the Tech sees and works on). The JB shown in the RCRIT I provided earlier is a LATER MODEL (3/2007 onward), and the "White Arrow" pointing to the connector to be removed, at the bottom of page 7 of the pdf, is pointing to Connector X11011 of the Later JB. On YOUR JB, the connector nearest that position is X11008, and NOT X11007 which is the Connector for YOUR Model which Tech was supposed to work on. On YOUR model, Connector X11008 should NOT have been touched, but it appears it was touched in April, and again, erroneously, on Friday.

This time, it appears Tech may have disconnected the FRM Power Supply from F53, which is a Red/Violet wire at Pin #1 of Connector X11008. If you recall, the April error was disconnecting the Red Blue wire at pin #6 of Connector X11008, which disabled the E-Fan by removing Power to the E-fan Connector.

I would suggest "being gentle" with your Dealer, as it appears that they have been given "misleading information" by BMW in the RCRIT and separate procedure, a copy of which I attached earlier. On YOUR model, built BEFORE 3/1/2007, the Connector that the Tech SHOULD have removed the "Red/ Violet" wire from, was X11007 and NOT X11008, and the wire was NOT Red/Violet in YOUR model, but was in fact Red/Blue, at least according to the TIS schematics linked below.

Here is the TIS circuit diagram for the Blower Motor (M30) for YOUR 2006 model, showing the Red/Blue wire at Pin #6 of Connector X11007, which SHOULD have been removed from the Connector and replaced by the NEW Red/Blue harness wire. Further adding to the confusion is the fact that the Position of the wire to be replaced in the Connector is DIFFERENT for your model than for later models, Pin #6 rather than Pin #2 (the Photo at bottom of page 8 shows LATER model, pin #2).
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...bution/hwh7J2T

Here is the TIS circuit diagram for the E-Fan (M9) for YOUR 2006 model, showing the Radiator E-Fan Power Supply via Red/Blue wire at Pin #5 of Connector X11008. Remember that NOTHING should have been changed or touched in that Connector X11008:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/i7SHdY5

Most likely cause of your current "lack of current" to various lights is that while plugging the "loose" Red/Blue wire back into X11008, the Tech figured he should disconnect the Red/Violet wire at Pin #1 of Connector X11008, which is the Power Supply to the FRM from fuse F53:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...module/r6wjBLF

I can ONLY guess what may have happened, based upon failure of the RCRIT & Procedure to show the VERY different JB used on your 2006 model. Whether my SWAG is correct or not, it would appear that you are NOT getting power to the FRM from ONE of the FOUR Fuses, F36, F41, F52, F53. To enable you and the Dealer to understand how misleading the RCRIT is, here are the Location of Connectors on the firewall side of the JB, first on YOUR 2006 model, and then on 3/2007 and LATER builds:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...x11007/RPEFhfP
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...011/1VndFl9K6w

I would suggest printing a copy of this "Internet Diagnosis" and presenting it to the Dealer as a suggested clarification of the BMW-provided RCRIT. It at least reminds them of the differences between YOUR model and the later ones they see more of.

Please let us know what you/your Dealer find,
George

[BavariasMostWanted]

Quick and final update.

Got the car back last night and all is well. It took them 12.9 to 12.16 to remedy the situation but the lighting issue was exactly as Gbalthrop explained. The tech had assumed to pull out the remaining Red/Blue wire that went to the FRM thinking it was the correct wire associated with the blower motor in the end. I just hope this doesn't mean the original blower motor wiring wasn't touched.....

The SM was very helpful after a stand-offish start and thankfully the car is back to normal. Is almost strange not having to watch or worry about the temp with a code reader all the time.

Thank you SO very much George for all of your help. You are a true legend my friend!!

Happy holidays, all and best of luck to anyone in the same boat.

[335iguy17]

so im having the same 2EFE code on my e93 335i 2008 and i replaced the relay, checked the fuses and still no dice, even put in a new fan but it seems like its not getting any power to the plug, any ideas?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by 335iguy17

so im having the same 2EFE code on my e93 335i 2008 and i replaced the relay, checked the fuses
and still no dice, even put in a new fan but it seems like its not getting any power to the plug, any ideas?

Attached are three wiring diagrams, component Locations & Connector view for the 600W E-fan circuit on 2008 N54.
Questions:
1) What Scan Tool (Make & Model) or Diagnostic Software do you have available?
2) If you don't have INPA or ISTA, do you have Scan Tool that can Display Live Data, or do Activations?
3) Do you have a Multimeter?
4) Referring to the the Attached ISTA ScreenPrints, and X1797 Connector View (Connector at E-Fan), what is Voltage
at Sockets #2 (Red/Blue wire) & #4 (Black/Blue wire) with Ignition ON? Record & Report those Voltage Values.
5) If less than battery voltage at X1797/2 (Red/Blue wire from Relay), Test Fuses F28 & F92 in JB Fuse Panel.
6) Also test Relay K9137. You can bench-test the Relay K9137.
7) If, with Relay removed from socket, you have 12V+ at Socket X14188/3 (Socket #3 of Connector X14188, Red/Blue Wire),
with Ignition OFF, you can test E-fan for operation by applying a Jumper wire with a spade terminal on each end,
between X14188/3 & X14188/5. That effectively CONNECTS the two Red/Blue wires at sockets #3 & #5 together
as if the relay were activated.
NOW, Start Engine, turn on A/C compressor, and see if Fan operates, and note its speed.

With answers to those questions, we can suggest "Next Steps". Please advise if you need suggestions on conducting the tests above.

George

[Bush Pilot]

This is an interesting thread. After replacing the water pump and thermostat on my E92 I read the codes and saw the 2EFE and my fan didn't appear to be working. I troubleshot the issue down to a missing fuse in location #92. The only time I know of when someone was working in that area was when the Blower Recall was done. I suspect the genius who did the work pulled what he thought was the Blower fan fuse but really pulled the Engine Cooling Fan fuse, did his work and forgot to re-install the fuse. And of course the Blower worked when he tested it so...no worries. All good to hand back to the customer. I plan to have a discussion with the Service Mgr this Fri. I've been driving around without a cooling fan for over a year now.

[JTCV]

[QUOTE=gbalthrop;28211390] Se adjuntan tres diagramas de cableado, ubicaciones de componentes y vista de conector para el circuito de ventilador E de 600 W en 2008 N54. Preguntas: 1) ¿Qué herramienta de escaneo (Marca y modelo) o software de diagnóstico tienes disponible? 2) Si no tiene INPA o ISTA, ¿tiene una herramienta de escaneo que pueda mostrar datos en vivo o hacer activaciones? 3) ¿Tienes un multímetro? 4) En referencia a las capturas de pantalla de ISTA adjuntas y a la vista del conector X1797 (conector en E-Fan), ¿qué es el voltaje? ¿En los enchufes #2 (cable rojo/azul) y #4 (cable negro/azul) con Ignition ON? Registre e informe de esos valores de voltaje. 5) Si el voltaje de la batería es inferior a X1797/2 (cable rojo/azul del relé), pruebe los fusibles F28 y F92 en el panel de fusibles JB. 6) Prueba también el relé K9137. Puedes probar el Relay K9137. 7) Si, con el relé retirado del enchufe, tiene más de 12 V en el enchufe X14188/3 (zócalo #3 del conector X14188, cable rojo/azul), con el encendido APAGADO, puede probar el E-fan para su funcionamiento aplicando un cable de puente con un terminal de pala en cada extremo, Entre X14188/3 y X14188/5. Que CONECTA eficazmente los dos cables rojo/azul en los enchufes #3 y #5 juntos como si el relé estuviera activado. AHORA, encienda el motor, encienda el compresor de aire acondicionado y vea si el ventilador funciona, y anote su velocidad. Con respuestas a esas preguntas, podemos sugerir "Próximos pasos". Por favor, avise si necesita sugerencias para realizar las pruebas anteriores. George[/CITA]

Can you help me ?