[Makoa6]

while driving my 2012 bmw 328i e92 (n52) vehicle, the icon for overheating cooling system came on. pulled over and waited till the car cooled down and drove home 12miles away. Pulled codes with INPA and got a 2efe code. I checked the wiring on the cooling fan. The brown wire to ground looks good and the red wire(12v)Positive also tested good. The blue signal wire showed difference when checking with dc voltage. I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and waterpump to Thermostat hose as well. filled coolant back up 50% BMW genuine coolant and 50% distilled water. Ran the system bleed test twice(2).
A week later, got the low coolant yellow icon on dashboard. Looked under hood and saw that coolant must have been spraying out from somewhere on the passenger front area. I also found that the bleeding plastic screw was weak and had broken off when I touched it with my fingers. I suspected that it was the cause of the low coolant and replaced it with a new one, added new coolant to the system, (didn't do a bleeding procedure). I noticed in my INPA error memory history(which i will upload) showed error 2e83 (which may be from the low coolant in system). A week later the yellow low coolant light came on and the same area(front passenger side) had look as if coolant sprayed out from somewhere again. refilled coolant and ran the car in idle for a while and couldn't see/find any coolant leaking. I also test drove the car and couldn't find the leak. I also did an INPA test on the Electric fan blower with INPA and could trigger all 3 stages the first stage 15%, fan came on on low speed and turned off after 20sec. ran the 50% second one and fan came on faster for 20 secs and shut off. I also ran the 90% and fan ran on high for 20secs and shut off. While car was idling, the fan never did come on, and I couldn't find any leaks. I jacked up the car and also took off the under cover and ran car in idle, couldn't find leak. I also ran the water pump test with ignition on and engine off. I notice at the first 5% trigger rate on INPA, I can't hear or see anything when I open the coolant res cap. but when I trigger the water pump on the second 50% and 3rd 95% trigger rate, I can see and hear the water circulating in coolant res. I also notice while I had my car in idle, My INPA would say that my e-blower cooling fan was 7% on INPA, but the fan wasn't on. the inlet coolant temp read 98c and also went to 101c on INPA, but fan didn't come on. I also check the 40amp fuse in the fuse under the passenger side glove box and it was ok. I turned on the ac inside while car was running and the cooling fan came on while ac was on and turned off when I shut off the ac. I also tried pulling the coolant temp sensor on the OFH on upper side of cooling and that triggered the fan to come on.(as I read someone tried that). I was trying to find a schematic diagram for my blue signal wire to the cooling fan to trace and check, but I couldn't find it. I also looked under the car to check my thermostat wiring along with my water pump wiring was hooked up and they both were. I am not sure in what direction I should go from here. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
see uploaded pics. one was when engine was fully cold and ignition on with engine off. The pics from my cell is with car running. showing the 7% eblower and engine temp.

[chris55552]

Originally Posted by Makoa6

while driving my 2012 bmw 328i e92 (n52) vehicle, the icon for overheating cooling system came on. pulled over and waited till the car cooled down and drove home 12miles away. Pulled codes with INPA and got a 2efe code. I checked the wiring on the cooling fan. The brown wire to ground looks good and the red wire(12v)Positive also tested good. The blue signal wire showed difference when checking with dc voltage. I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and waterpump to Thermostat hose as well. filled coolant back up 50% BMW genuine coolant and 50% distilled water. Ran the system bleed test twice(2).
A week later, got the low coolant yellow icon on dashboard. Looked under hood and saw that coolant must have been spraying out from somewhere on the passenger front area. I also found that the bleeding plastic screw was weak and had broken off when I touched it with my fingers. I suspected that it was the cause of the low coolant and replaced it with a new one, added new coolant to the system, (didn't do a bleeding procedure). I noticed in my INPA error memory history(which i will upload) showed error 2e83 (which may be from the low coolant in system). A week later the yellow low coolant light came on and the same area(front passenger side) had look as if coolant sprayed out from somewhere again. refilled coolant and ran the car in idle for a while and couldn't see/find any coolant leaking. I also test drove the car and couldn't find the leak. I also did an INPA test on the Electric fan blower with INPA and could trigger all 3 stages the first stage 15%, fan came on on low speed and turned off after 20sec. ran the 50% second one and fan came on faster for 20 secs and shut off. I also ran the 90% and fan ran on high for 20secs and shut off. While car was idling, the fan never did come on, and I couldn't find any leaks. I jacked up the car and also took off the under cover and ran car in idle, couldn't find leak. I also ran the water pump test with ignition on and engine off. I notice at the first 5% trigger rate on INPA, I can't hear or see anything when I open the coolant res cap. but when I trigger the water pump on the second 50% and 3rd 95% trigger rate, I can see and hear the water circulating in coolant res. I also notice while I had my car in idle, My INPA would say that my e-blower cooling fan was 7% on INPA, but the fan wasn't on. the inlet coolant temp read 98c and also went to 101c on INPA, but fan didn't come on. I also check the 40amp fuse in the fuse under the passenger side glove box and it was ok. I turned on the ac inside while car was running and the cooling fan came on while ac was on and turned off when I shut off the ac. I also tried pulling the coolant temp sensor on the OFH on upper side of cooling and that triggered the fan to come on.(as I read someone tried that). I was trying to find a schematic diagram for my blue signal wire to the cooling fan to trace and check, but I couldn't find it. I also looked under the car to check my thermostat wiring along with my water pump wiring was hooked up and they both were. I am not sure in what direction I should go from here. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
see uploaded pics. one was when engine was fully cold and ignition on with engine off. The pics from my cell is with car running. showing the 7% eblower and engine temp.

Wish I could provide more insight but the only experience I have with coolant is changing out the radiator on my f25 x3 I fould that besides my outgoing radiator being shot I was amazed at how much the plastic nipples that connected the coolant hoses together at certain points had disentegrated and as a result leaks were in several locations in the coolant circulation path, I changed out all the hoses and plastic connection points and it solved it. I think there is a flange in there that is notorious for falling apart and causing leaks, but I didnt have to chase it down. I learned to appreciate the coolant air bleed procedure, it helped as it circulated and hit air gaps I could stand over it and add coolant as it was being circulated until all entire system was good. I was looking at your software interface pictures above and I really need to get started learning inpa, ista etc looks like it provides a wealth of information..

[Makoa6]

Originally Posted by chris55552

Wish I could provide more insight but the only experience I have with coolant is changing out the radiator on my f25 x3 I fould that besides my outgoing radiator being shot I was amazed at how much the plastic nipples that connected the coolant hoses together at certain points had disentegrated and as a result leaks were in several locations in the coolant circulation path, I changed out all the hoses and plastic connection points and it solved it. I think there is a flange in there that is notorious for falling apart and causing leaks, but I didnt have to chase it down. I learned to appreciate the coolant air bleed procedure, it helped as it circulated and hit air gaps I could stand over it and add coolant as it was being circulated until all entire system was good. I was looking at your software interface pictures above and I really need to get started learning inpa, ista etc looks like it provides a wealth of information..

Thanks for replying to my current issue. I have bled the system twice after the second yellow light.
INPA is a really useful/powerful tool. I still have trouble reading German lol. I try my best to use this and my other scan tools as well. I hope I can fix it. Im still trying to find the schematics for the electric cooling fan system, so I can trace the wiring etc... I'm confused because INPA shows 7% fan on picture above, but my cooling fan wasn't working... I also thought that the fan should turn on when it reaches 200 deg. but It didn't. In one of my pictures, the inlet cooling temp. was 101c which is over 200deg. Also, my car doesn't have an outlet temp sensor? usually found on bottom side of radiator hose? Hope this thread finds someone who can help.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Makoa6

... 2012 bmw 328i e92 (n52)... [yellow] icon for overheating cooling system came on... Pulled codes with INPA and got a 2efe code. I checked the wiring on the cooling fan. The brown wire to ground looks good and the red wire(12v)Positive also tested good. The blue signal wire showed difference when checking with dc voltage... I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and waterpump to Thermostat hose as well...

A week later, got the low coolant yellow icon on dashboard. Looked under hood and saw that coolant must have been spraying out from somewhere on the passenger front area. I also found that the bleeding plastic screw was weak and had broken off when I touched it with my fingers. I suspected that it was the cause of the low coolant and replaced it [WHAT replaced exactly?] with a new one...

I noticed in my INPA error memory history(which i will upload) showed error 2e83 (which may be from the low coolant in system). A week later the yellow low coolant light came on and the same area(front passenger side) had look as if coolant sprayed out from somewhere again...

I also did an INPA test on the Electric fan blower with INPA and could trigger all 3 stages the first stage 15%, fan came on on low speed and turned off after 20sec. ran the 50% second one and fan came on faster for 20 secs and shut off. I also ran the 90% and fan ran on high for 20secs and shut off...

My INPA would say that my e-blower cooling fan was 7% on INPA, but the fan wasn't on. the inlet coolant temp read 98c and also went to 101c on INPA, but fan didn't come on. I also check the 40amp fuse in the fuse under the passenger side glove box and it was ok.

I turned on the ac inside while car was running and the cooling fan came on while ac was on and turned off when I shut off the ac. I also tried pulling the coolant temp sensor on the OFH on upper side of cooling and that triggered the fan to come on.(as I read someone tried that).

I was trying to find a schematic diagram for my blue signal wire to the cooling fan to trace and check, but I couldn't find it. I also looked under the car to check my thermostat wiring along with my water pump wiring was hooked up and they both were...

ISTA ScreenPrints of Wiring Diagram for E-Fan & Connector View for X60001/8 "T_LUE" Black/Blue "Speed Signal" wire to E-Fan are attached to NEXT Post. I'm NOT sure from your post exactly what has been replaced (entire Coolant Reservoir, or just Bleed screw), & if leak source has ever been identified. So please answer questions below.

Also, your INPA Screens show NO improper values. Your two F6 Activation Screens are WITHOUT pressing any Function Key to over-ride DME Control of E-Fan or Coolant Pump. Your 328i has NO ROTS (Radiator Outlet Temp Sensor), so the value shown for that is ALWAYS computed by DME as 7.5C LESS than the ECTS (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) signal as received by the DME.

Your E-Fan always runs when A/C Compressor is activated (as it should), & your Activation of E-Fan at 15%, 50% & 90% appears to work as it should. You report proper operation of Coolant Pump, at least when activated at 50% & 95%, and PROBABLY also at 5%. There is NOTHING in any of the INPA data that suggests an issue, UNLESS there is an intermittent loss of Power Supply, Ground, or Speed Signal, which is NOT present in any of the INPA screens attached.

The History Memory (HistorySpeicher) is a bit curious. I presume you realize that is NOT current Fault Memory (FehlerSpeicher). If there is any Fault saved in Error Memory (F4 > F1 > F3 Error Memory with Freeze Frame Data), please attach ScreenPrint of each page showing a fault. THAT is best Data of current Faults.

History Memory is a Log of Faults, mileage at which Fault was Saved, & some basic information about that fault. Using Google Translate can help you understand the German:
https://translate.google.com/?sl=de&tl=en&op=translate

I would suggest SAVING a ScreenPrint of the ENTIRE 10 Fault readout of your History Memory. NEVER delete History Memory. Each PT-Can Module (DME/Engine, EGS/AT, VGSG, EKPS, DSC) has History Memory. That shows last 10 faults saved in the module, with up to 3 instances of each fault & mileage at which it was saved. If you have an 11th fault, it is saved (1/10) and old fault (10/10 is removed).

Your History Memory attachment does NOT show 3 most recent faults: 1/10 to 3/10, NOR complete info for 8/10, or anything for 9/10 or 10/10. Notice the Double-Arrow in Green at bottom right of screen. That means there is more DATA BOTH above & below that screen. Page up or Page down to view.

There is NO mileage/odometer reading for the MAF Sensor "Collection Error", or the OZS Too Low error, for the last TWO occurrences. That suggest there was a fault in the K-Can Bus between KOMBI Instrument Cluster & JBE Hub when those faults occurred. It would be helpful to see two most recent History Memory entries (1/10 & 2/10).

Questions:
1) Last-7 Characters of your VIN?

2) Current Odometer Reading?

3) ScreenPrints (2 pages) showing Current Faults:
INPA > Functional Jobs > F4 > F1 Error Memory, ALL Modules

3A) First page of History Memory, showing two most-recent faults;
INPA > DME (MSV80) > F4 > F3 > F1 Read History Memory

3B) DME current Fault Codes, Fault Memory/ Fehlerspeicher:
INPA > DME > F4 > F1 > F3 Read Fault Memory with Freeze Frame Data;
Save & attach one screen for each current fault.
Suggest you SAVE entire 10 entries for future reference.
See attached pdf: INPA Tutorial Quickstart for HOW to save ScreenPrints

4) What was replaced in cooling system other than Pump & T-Stat?

5) Do you have an Infrared Thermometer? If so, temp reading at ECTS housing when engine fully warmed?

6) Check for any current Coolant Leaks: Shutdown warm engine (90C to 100C Coolant Temp). Open hood & inspect carefully for any hiss or fluid leak. Vapor Pressure of hot coolant will cause escape of steam or liquid if there is any leak. You do NOT want the engine running (noise) & pump does NOT pressurize system -- just the "Vapor Pressure". Do NOT open reservoir cap, but carefully check all areas near Reservoir. Please report findings.
George

[gbalthrop]

Attached are ISTA ScreenPrints for E-Fan circuit, 2012 328i N52, per prior post.
George