[jadams161]

Just a bump post.. Check those lines.. I wasn't having issues but decided to put new ones on. Car is an 09 with 60k but they were dry and brittle. People are definitely way over estimating how much you need. I did mine with just under 10 feet (I have a Tial bov so didn't need diverter lines run). Really the simplest job I've done on it. Waste gate lines are 30 seconds to do from top.

[JoeyH335i]

sub'd

[runriderive]

Just stopped here to say thanks for this thread as it was a huge help in replacing the vacuum lines on my car ( 2008 335xi sedan with 191,000 miles ). I had recently noticed wastegate rattle and power delivery wasn't as much of a surge in the seat as I remembered so decided to try replacing vacuum lines before going all the way to replacing turbos.

I can mostly echo the previous posts here encouraging you to just go for it when replacing the lines. For anyone worried about the wastegate actuator lines: It might take a few tries and there isn't an easy button, but it isn't THAT bad.

The lines on top of my vacuum canisters were replaced once previously (read AEM on the ones previously replaced), but all the old BMW lines were very brittle, crunchy, and tough to remove from the plastic hose barbs. Each had to be cut carefully, but I got it done with a razer blade. The lines on the wastegate (WG) actuators came off very easily with a moderate tug or two as the connections are metal nipples and there doesn't seem to be a barb on them. The rear WG line was pretty easy going in from the front of the car toward the firewall, between the coolant tank and essentially the ignition coils, in a somewhat downward fashion to reach the rear WG actuator and vacuum line. Plenty of room to work in there - my hands aren't small, but not huge either. The front was easy to trace and find by feel, but I did use the previously mentioned methods involving cutting a taper at the end of the new line and using a solid core through-wire to guide the new line into place. I had a spool of solder at-hand that fit into the nipple, and, even though solder is very ductile/flexible, it worked after a few tries. Then it was just a matter of coaxing the new line far enough into place.

The only line I did not take off was that connected to the intake manifold, but I did cut the line near it and added a double-barb so most of the line is replaced. I wasn't in the mood to deal with a cracked connection on the the intake manifold, and have read plenty of stories about that hose barb breaking off. Maybe the next time the valves get walnut blasted . . .

I replaced with blue 3.5mm ID / 2.5mm wall lines from Verocious Motorsports
VMSVAC-035-BLU.

Driveability and power is noticeably improved. WG rattle is reduced, not eliminated, but I was able to feel the rear wastegate actuator and confirmed a little free play in it so no surprise there. Perhaps next weekend I'll try tightening the actuator arm.

Thanks for being a great resource!

[Wolf 335]

Originally Posted by runriderive

Just stopped here to say thanks for this thread as it was a huge help in replacing the vacuum lines on my car ( 2008 335xi sedan with 191,000 miles ). I had recently noticed wastegate rattle and power delivery wasn't as much of a surge in the seat as I remembered so decided to try replacing vacuum lines before going all the way to replacing turbos.

I can mostly echo the previous posts here encouraging you to just go for it when replacing the lines. For anyone worried about the wastegate actuator lines: It might take a few tries and there isn't an easy button, but it isn't THAT bad.

The lines on top of my vacuum canisters were replaced once previously (read AEM on the ones previously replaced), but all the old BMW lines were very brittle, crunchy, and tough to remove from the plastic hose barbs. Each had to be cut carefully, but I got it done with a razer blade. The lines on the wastegate (WG) actuators came off very easily with a moderate tug or two as the connections are metal nipples and there doesn't seem to be a barb on them. The rear WG line was pretty easy going in from the front of the car toward the firewall, between the coolant tank and essentially the ignition coils, in a somewhat downward fashion to reach the rear WG actuator and vacuum line. Plenty of room to work in there - my hands aren't small, but not huge either. The front was easy to trace and find by feel, but I did use the previously mentioned methods involving cutting a taper at the end of the new line and using a solid core through-wire to guide the new line into place. I had a spool of solder at-hand that fit into the nipple, and, even though solder is very ductile/flexible, it worked after a few tries. Then it was just a matter of coaxing the new line far enough into place.

The only line I did not take off was that connected to the intake manifold, but I did cut the line near it and added a double-barb so most of the line is replaced. I wasn't in the mood to deal with a cracked connection on the the intake manifold, and have read plenty of stories about that hose barb breaking off. Maybe the next time the valves get walnut blasted . . .

I replaced with blue 3.5mm ID / 2.5mm wall lines from Verocious Motorsports
VMSVAC-035-BLU.

Driveability and power is noticeably improved. WG rattle is reduced, not eliminated, but I was able to feel the rear wastegate actuator and confirmed a little free play in it so no surprise there. Perhaps next weekend I'll try tightening the actuator arm.

Thanks for being a great resource!

Glad it worked for you.
Still got to do my front actuator line.