[Raiiiden]

I have a few problems with my 328i 2011. On cold start it turns on then off and then I am able to start it after 2-3 starts, this doesn't happen anytime besides the morning. When I turn it on the car has a weird idle, it isn't terrible but it goes up and down rpms, not much like up to 1200, back to 1000, that area. When pressing the gas it feels inconsistent and when I rapidly accelerate to around 2500-3000 rpms the car shakes and when I get past to around 4000 it stops. Previous owner noted lower voltage on MAF sensor and Valvetronic motor. To me it sounds like a MAF sensor issue, but I'm not entirely sure as I haven't really worked on these cars much and I'm new. This could be a wiring issue as well, but I'd like opinions.

[YeldarbEfir]

My car has started sputtering/misfiring on hard acceleration after it's been idling for a few minutes.

[Raiiiden]

Originally Posted by YeldarbEfir

My car has started sputtering/misfiring on hard acceleration after it's been idling for a few minutes.

Honestly that could be so many things, I would recommend doing a scan

[lookalikehuuh]

Originally Posted by Raiiiden

I have a few problems with my 328i 2011. On cold start it turns on then off and then I am able to start it after 2-3 starts, this doesn't happen anytime besides the morning. When I turn it on the car has a weird idle, it isn't terrible but it goes up and down rpms, not much like up to 1200, back to 1000, that area. When pressing the gas it feels inconsistent and when I rapidly accelerate to around 2500-3000 rpms the car shakes and when I get past to around 4000 it stops. Previous owner noted lower voltage on MAF sensor and Valvetronic motor. To me it sounds like a MAF sensor issue, but I'm not entirely sure as I haven't really worked on these cars much and I'm new. This could be a wiring issue as well, but I'd like opinions.

What's interesting though is that on cold start your MAF is playing a somewhat lower role because the car is in open loop. Its not until the car has warmed up into closed loop that it really begins to matter what the MAF is sending.

You could theoretically unplug the MAF on your first cold start and the car will just run on its default strategy. That would eliminate the MAF as the root cause of the issue.

[Raiiiden]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

What's interesting though is that on cold start your MAF is playing a somewhat lower role because the car is in open loop. Its not until the car has warmed up into closed loop that it really begins to matter what the MAF is sending.

You could theoretically unplug the MAF on your first cold start and the car will just run on its default strategy. That would eliminate the MAF as the root cause of the issue.

I'll test this tomorrow morning on the first cold start of the day. I was thinking about grabbing an extra valvetronic motor and maf sensor from picknpull this weekend, what years am I able to pull from? 2008-2013?