[Jarninius]

2011 335xi, I just replaced my valvetronic stop limit bolt, vanos solenoids, cam position sensors, belt and belt tensioner. The stop limit bolt has been a regular bolt due to the other one breaking and the car ran fine all week. I replaced the others in hopes of fixing my error code for faulty exhaust camshaft installation. The code throws my car into limp mode but once the code is cleared while the car is in ignition, it would run perfectly normal.

After replacing everything, I started the car and it ran fine for a little bit and then it started misfiring so i shut the car off. I came to find out that 2 of my ignition coils just somehow popped off of the spark plugs, so i corrected it and tried starting my car again. The car just cranks and is not pumping fuel. I pulled the codes and i have a bunch of valvetronic related codes. I have no idea what could’ve happened and the only thing i can think of is blown fuses. I haven’t checked yet because I have to go to work tonight. I thought I would see if anyone else has had these issues and how they were fixed. Codes are as follows:

371A - Valvetronic, supply voltage: line interruption

2A61 - Relay ignition and injectors, supply voltage injection: line break

371B - Relay ignition and injectors, control: Short circuit to ground

2DB5 - Valvetronic relay, control: short circuit to earth

2DEA - Valvetronic: power amplifier overloaded

2DE8 - Valvetronic: Component protection, shutdown system

Something seems to be very wrong here and I just genuinely have no idea what i could’ve done to cause all of these issues. never had these codes in the past and now they are all suddenly here. It seems to be shutting off my car and not allowing my fuel to pump to protect something from what I can tell, but everywhere I have looked have had very mixed solutions and I was wondering what I could’ve done wrong to cause this.

[Jarninius]

Update: I was looking around my engine bay to see if i could see any exposed wiring anywhere, and i had no luck after 30 minutes of searching. I did find something interesting though. Every fre minutes I could hear my fuel pump kicking on just for a few seconds, and if i read my codes quickly enough after hearing it, the codes would be gone. Once i read them again, codes will be back. I have no idea what this signifies but maybe there is just a wire somewhere that i could just so happen to be moving around and causing the temporary fix? I honestly have no clue as i’m not as experienced with currents and wiring, but if anyone can help me out here and maybe give me somewhere to start, i would really appreciate it!

[Jarninius]

I have had no luck as to finding any blown fuses, everything seems to have continuity. I also tested for voltage and none of the fuses in the engine compartment were getting any power woth ignition on. Not sure if these fuses are only powered if the engine is actually running, but if anyone has any insight as to some other wiring i can look at, please let me know! I am terrible with wiring and electrical issues compared to my mechanical skills (which is still not great) and I really just need some help here. It seems like a bunch of random things are just being shorted out constantly. even with ignition off, the codes will remain present. This sounds like it could turn into a potential nightmare to deal with and i’m really hoping i don’t have to deal with something that’s gonna be a pain again already. Also, a new code showed up today:

378F - BSD, communication (engine coolant pump) missing

No idea why this showed up but maybe it is related to the other issues and will help narrow the issue. For reference here is a picture of all of my current codes, these all stay present and for some reason will disappear for a couple seconds every few minutes. Any help is appreciated!

[Jarninius]

Okay, I believe that my issue is the battery distributor. I saw a video and I think that somehow the fuse on it blew. below are attached pictures and the test light is not lighting up on the fuse that has the wire that powers the valvetronic system. I just need someone to double check and confirm that i did this right so i can get the new distributor in. thanks!

[Jarninius]

Another update, i pulled the connector off and there is no power on the end past the fuse whatsoever, and after pulling that out i got a couple more valvetronic codes but probably because there was no power at all. i want to say that the distributor is bad but i will wait for a second opinion because i dont trust myself

[lookalikehuuh]

Ok I'm late the the party here, but I want to give you something to chew on for a bit. The root cause of the issue is not the blown fuse, the blown fuse is a symptom that likely occurred because of a short to ground somewhere.

My neighbor's N55 had his wiring harness melt where it goes on top of the OFHG due to an overheating even because of the failed mickey mouse flange so maybe you have something like that occurring in one of your harnesses.

Anyway I would suspect if you test ground continuity after the fuse in your distribution block that you will find ground continuity, that might be able to help you figure out where your short is.

[Jarninius]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

Ok I'm late the the party here, but I want to give you something to chew on for a bit. The root cause of the issue is not the blown fuse, the blown fuse is a symptom that likely occurred because of a short to ground somewhere.

My neighbor's N55 had his wiring harness melt where it goes on top of the OFHG due to an overheating even because of the failed mickey mouse flange so maybe you have something like that occurring in one of your harnesses.

Anyway I would suspect if you test ground continuity after the fuse in your distribution block that you will find ground continuity, that might be able to help you figure out where your short is.

I would totally agree here, although i still find it super odd that it shorted out after the whole ignition coil thing. it ran fine just before then so i want to say it would make sense for it to be something like that. the wiring harness needs replacement regardless and it has 2 other terminals that are both also rated for 100 amps, so i tried to put it on that one and the fuse blew. On the bright side i have checked every single other fuse and they are all fine. I guess i should start by inspecting my ignition coil wires. Also i’m sorry if it’s a stupid question but how exactly would I be locating the short to ground? You said testing the continuity after the fuse in which i’m assuming you mean the power cable that goes to the front of the car right? i’m not as sure as to how i would find the short to ground using continuity but if you don’t mind explaining it a little more in depth I would be very grateful. Either way, thank you for the input and suggestion!