[Jarninius]

2011 335xi, I just replaced my valvetronic stop limit bolt, vanos solenoids, cam position sensors, belt and belt tensioner. The stop limit bolt has been a regular bolt due to the other one breaking and the car ran fine all week. I replaced the others in hopes of fixing my error code for faulty exhaust camshaft installation. The code throws my car into limp mode but once the code is cleared while the car is in ignition, it would run perfectly normal.

After replacing everything, I started the car and it ran fine for a little bit and then it started misfiring so i shut the car off. I came to find out that 2 of my ignition coils just somehow popped off of the spark plugs, so i corrected it and tried starting my car again. The car just cranks and is not pumping fuel. I pulled the codes and i have a bunch of valvetronic related codes. I have no idea what could’ve happened and the only thing i can think of is blown fuses. I haven’t checked yet because I have to go to work tonight. I thought I would see if anyone else has had these issues and how they were fixed. Codes are as follows:

371A - Valvetronic, supply voltage: line interruption

2A61 - Relay ignition and injectors, supply voltage injection: line break

371B - Relay ignition and injectors, control: Short circuit to ground

2DB5 - Valvetronic relay, control: short circuit to earth

2DEA - Valvetronic: power amplifier overloaded

2DE8 - Valvetronic: Component protection, shutdown system

Something seems to be very wrong here and I just genuinely have no idea what i could’ve done to cause all of these issues. never had these codes in the past and now they are all suddenly here. It seems to be shutting off my car and not allowing my fuel to pump to protect something from what I can tell, but everywhere I have looked have had very mixed solutions and I was wondering what I could’ve done wrong to cause this.

[Jarninius]

Update: I was looking around my engine bay to see if i could see any exposed wiring anywhere, and i had no luck after 30 minutes of searching. I did find something interesting though. Every fre minutes I could hear my fuel pump kicking on just for a few seconds, and if i read my codes quickly enough after hearing it, the codes would be gone. Once i read them again, codes will be back. I have no idea what this signifies but maybe there is just a wire somewhere that i could just so happen to be moving around and causing the temporary fix? I honestly have no clue as i’m not as experienced with currents and wiring, but if anyone can help me out here and maybe give me somewhere to start, i would really appreciate it!

[Jarninius]

I have had no luck as to finding any blown fuses, everything seems to have continuity. I also tested for voltage and none of the fuses in the engine compartment were getting any power woth ignition on. Not sure if these fuses are only powered if the engine is actually running, but if anyone has any insight as to some other wiring i can look at, please let me know! I am terrible with wiring and electrical issues compared to my mechanical skills (which is still not great) and I really just need some help here. It seems like a bunch of random things are just being shorted out constantly. even with ignition off, the codes will remain present. This sounds like it could turn into a potential nightmare to deal with and i’m really hoping i don’t have to deal with something that’s gonna be a pain again already. Also, a new code showed up today:

378F - BSD, communication (engine coolant pump) missing

No idea why this showed up but maybe it is related to the other issues and will help narrow the issue. For reference here is a picture of all of my current codes, these all stay present and for some reason will disappear for a couple seconds every few minutes. Any help is appreciated!

[Jarninius]

Okay, I believe that my issue is the battery distributor. I saw a video and I think that somehow the fuse on it blew. below are attached pictures and the test light is not lighting up on the fuse that has the wire that powers the valvetronic system. I just need someone to double check and confirm that i did this right so i can get the new distributor in. thanks!

[Jarninius]

Another update, i pulled the connector off and there is no power on the end past the fuse whatsoever, and after pulling that out i got a couple more valvetronic codes but probably because there was no power at all. i want to say that the distributor is bad but i will wait for a second opinion because i dont trust myself

[lookalikehuuh]

Ok I'm late the the party here, but I want to give you something to chew on for a bit. The root cause of the issue is not the blown fuse, the blown fuse is a symptom that likely occurred because of a short to ground somewhere.

My neighbor's N55 had his wiring harness melt where it goes on top of the OFHG due to an overheating even because of the failed mickey mouse flange so maybe you have something like that occurring in one of your harnesses.

Anyway I would suspect if you test ground continuity after the fuse in your distribution block that you will find ground continuity, that might be able to help you figure out where your short is.

[Jarninius]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

Ok I'm late the the party here, but I want to give you something to chew on for a bit. The root cause of the issue is not the blown fuse, the blown fuse is a symptom that likely occurred because of a short to ground somewhere.

My neighbor's N55 had his wiring harness melt where it goes on top of the OFHG due to an overheating even because of the failed mickey mouse flange so maybe you have something like that occurring in one of your harnesses.

Anyway I would suspect if you test ground continuity after the fuse in your distribution block that you will find ground continuity, that might be able to help you figure out where your short is.

I would totally agree here, although i still find it super odd that it shorted out after the whole ignition coil thing. it ran fine just before then so i want to say it would make sense for it to be something like that. the wiring harness needs replacement regardless and it has 2 other terminals that are both also rated for 100 amps, so i tried to put it on that one and the fuse blew. On the bright side i have checked every single other fuse and they are all fine. I guess i should start by inspecting my ignition coil wires. Also i’m sorry if it’s a stupid question but how exactly would I be locating the short to ground? You said testing the continuity after the fuse in which i’m assuming you mean the power cable that goes to the front of the car right? i’m not as sure as to how i would find the short to ground using continuity but if you don’t mind explaining it a little more in depth I would be very grateful. Either way, thank you for the input and suggestion!

[Jarninius]

I could really use some help. Ive been testing for resitance on all of my ground points and making sure everything is tightly connected and i still have had no luck. I got the new battery distributor and the second i attached the negative terminal the fuse instantly popped. I still have 2 100A fuses in the box that are not in use that i believe i can still use, but if i blow those then i need ANOTHER distributor and i will still need to find my problem. I also tested my relays and everything seemed to check out. I don’t understand what is causing the 100A fuse in the distributor to pop instantly and I have no idea why it happened out of nowhere, but if anyone has had this problem or at least has an idea of where else I could start looking I would really appreciate it. I feel defeated but I’m really determined to find this problem and fix it. I just need a helping hand to tell me where i need to go thank you to anyone that can help me!

[Jarninius]

Also, got some new codes for some reason. Everything seems to be linked to the box under the hood getting no power. Not 100% sure though:

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Jarninius

Also, got some new codes for some reason. Everything seems to be linked to the box under the hood getting
no power. Not 100% sure though:

You have a short-to-ground in your VVT Supply cable that runs from the RPDP (Rear Power Distribution Panel)
Fusible link to the inboard Transfer Point (on inboard side of Battery), and then forward to the E-box under the hood.

See Post #6 by "LAH' explaining HOW to test that WITHOUT blowing a fuse. In more detail:
1) You need a cheap ~ $10 Multimeter, NOT a test light.
2) You need to use Ω or Ohms/Resistance Setting on meter, to measure "continuity to Chassis Ground". The
reason the fuse is blowing is that you have nearly ZERO Ohms Resistance between the B+ cable at the RPDP
& Chassis Ground.
3) Do NOT connect that Red B+ wire (that goes to VVT Relay) to RPDP, or it will blow the Fusible Link.
4) Begin by getting Multimeter, Selecting Ω setting in mid-range; Place Red Meter Probe on disconnected SMALL B+
Red wire, & Black meter probe on good Chassis Metal.

Record & Report Ohms Reading. A reading LESS than .12 Ohms will blow a 100A Fusible link. Do NOT attach that wire
to RPDP until we locate the short.
If you have a friend who is an electrician, he may be able to locate the site of the short with a proper tool Quicker than
you can do it WITHOUT. Just let us know what you find in initial test, & we'll take it from there.
Photo of my (slightly different) RPDP on 328xi N52 is attached. UNPLUG B+ to VVT Small B+ Red Cable from RPDP.
George

[Jarninius]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

You have a short-to-ground in your VVT Supply cable that runs from the RPDP (Rear Power Distribution Panel)
Fusible link to the inboard Transfer Point (on inboard side of Battery), and then forward to the E-box under the hood.

See Post #6 by "LAH' explaining HOW to test that WITHOUT blowing a fuse. In more detail:
1) You need a cheap ~ $10 Multimeter, NOT a test light.
2) You need to use Ω or Ohms/Resistance Setting on meter, to measure "continuity to Chassis Ground". The
reason the fuse is blowing is that you have nearly ZERO Ohms Resistance between the B+ cable at the RPDP
& Chassis Ground.
3) Do NOT connect that Red B+ wire (that goes to VVT Relay) to RPDP, or it will blow the Fusible Link.
4) Begin by getting Multimeter, Selecting Ω setting in mid-range; Place Red Meter Probe on disconnected SMALL B+
Red wire, & Black meter probe on good Chassis Metal.

Record & Report Ohms Reading. A reading LESS than .12 Ohms will blow a 100A Fusible link. Do NOT attach that wire
to RPDP until we locate the short.
If you have a friend who is an electrician, he may be able to locate the site of the short with a proper tool Quicker than
you can do it WITHOUT. Just let us know what you find in initial test, & we'll take it from there.
Photo of my (slightly different) RPDP on 328xi N52 is attached. UNPLUG B+ to VVT Small B+ Red Cable from RPDP.
George

Thanks for the reply! I did what you said and this is what my multimeter is currently reading. Also i’m pretty sure that the ground is good, there is bare metal between the pinch weld. If I am doing anything wrong please let me know! Also, my multimeter was picking up some resistance around 0.8 ohms and then it just slowly drained away, not sure if that’s my multimeter being faulty but it dropped to 0 ohms after sitting there for about 30 seconds.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Jarninius

... my multimeter was picking up some resistance around 0.8 ohms and then it just slowly drained away, not sure if that’s my multimeter being faulty but it dropped to 0 ohms after sitting there for about 30 seconds.

Questions:
1) Ignition SHOULD have been OFF when you tested earlier. Was it?

2) Test your meter: Select Ohms setting; meter display should read "1" or Infinite resistance; Now touch meter probes together: display should read 0.0 Ohms or nearly so (0.01). It should NOT take more than a second or two for display value to go to 0. Please report how this test went.

3) Repeat the test of the VVT B+ Small Red Cable. Make sure there is good contact between the Red Meter Probe & the Cable Metal terminal. Please report test findings.

4) Assuming that there is near-zero resistance (short-to-ground) in test 3, next step is to remove Battery & check the "Transfer Points". Open the black plastic covers and check for rust on either terminal, but particularly the Inboard side where the Small VVT Cable connects. If there is any water in the Battery Well, use a syringe or such to remove the water.

After those steps, please report back.
I don't have an N55, so anyone who DOES have one, and can offer photos or tips on how to access the VVT Relay & Integrated Supply Module at the Right Firewall, please chime in. I will attach the information provided by ISTA to next post.
George

[gbalthrop]

Please ignore what I said about an "Integrated Supply Module" in prior post. That is for X3/X5 only. The N55 in question
should have an E-box with Fuse F04 getting power from X1984 at the RPDP, per the attached ISTA ScreenPrints. Also attached
is Photo of the Transfer Point locations & plastic covers, on my 3/2007 build 328xi. More ISTA ScreenPrints to follow.
George

[gbalthrop]

X1984 at RPDP, Location; F102 to F04
George