[gonzobrains]

Hi everyone,

I am a new user here. I have a 2006 BMW 325xi wagon which suffered from a failed starter recently. I took it to a mechanic who replaced it but with additional problems. When I received it back from the mechanic the yellow check engine light was on. It had not previously been on when I first dropped it off with them. It was idling roughly, too. At this point code P1415 was now present. None of these were issues prior to me bringing it to them.

I suspected this may be at play:

https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/p...stalls.798274/

I returned the car to them to fix these problems. They claimed the oil separator had to be replaced. The P1415 code disappeared but now I have even more problems. The vehicle now suffers from a "long crank." Originally, my car would start within 1-2 seconds. It now takes several seconds of turning over before it will start. I also have more codes and a transmission malfunction error on the main screen.

Transm. malfunction. Gear can be engaged without depressing the brake. Drive moderately. Have the system checked...


I don't know what they actually did on the second visit, but now I have a broken component zip-tied back together as well (see pics). What part is this?

I also have these codes now:

P0700
P0335
P1727
51A7

Here is a video link to the "long crank" issue:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/M9xwcvoZEkodhA168



I watched the following in its entirety:

https://youtu.be/elW6LmyV4vs?si=Xc4wyHpb0hbznyd1



I don't see any seals, gaskets, rubber components on my invoice so it is highly unlikely they replaced any of them despite me having asked them to do so.

I can't pass emmissions now with all of these problems. The vehicle runs poorly and doesn't start as quickly as it used to. And why do I have a transmission problem now just by replacing the starter? Did they mess up the crankshaft sensor or something?

I don't understand how they could have caused so many issues just replacing a starter.

Any advice now? What needs to be done to make the vehicle whole again?

Thanks,
Jeff

[gbalthrop]

Welcome to the Forum Jeff!
See reply to your Bimmerfest post:
https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/p...#post-13902980
George

[Hoody007]

Where are you in GA? Happy to help you out if you need (have access to ISTA / INPA).
I defer to George and his excellent diagnosis skills!

[StradaRedlands]

You got hosed by the mechanic, that's for sure...

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by gonzobrains

Hi everyone,

I am a new user here. I have a 2006 BMW 325xi wagon which suffered from a failed starter recently. I took it to a mechanic who replaced it but with additional problems. When I received it back from the mechanic the yellow check engine light was on. It had not previously been on when I first dropped it off with them. It was idling roughly, too. At this point code P1415 was now present. None of these were issues prior to me bringing it to them.

I suspected this may be at play:

https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/p...stalls.798274/

I returned the car to them to fix these problems. They claimed the oil separator had to be replaced. The P1415 code disappeared but now I have even more problems. The vehicle now suffers from a "long crank." Originally, my car would start within 1-2 seconds. It now takes several seconds of turning over before it will start. I also have more codes and a transmission malfunction error on the main screen.

Transm. malfunction. Gear can be engaged without depressing the brake. Drive moderately. Have the system checked...



I don't know what they actually did on the second visit, but now I have a broken component zip-tied back together as well (see pics). What part is this?

I also have these codes now:

P0700
P0335
P1727
51A7

Here is a video link to the "long crank" issue:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/M9xwcvoZEkodhA168



I watched the following in its [...]

That zip tie looks like is something they used while working on the car and forgot to remove it? There shouldn’t be anything on that particular section of the oil filter housing. Check for loose hooses/coonections make sure all is secure. Vacuum leaks or somethjng. Or have the shop do it for you under warranty. Lastly, our cars can act funny when correct power is not delivered by the charging system. Do you actually have shifting problems when driving? How old is your battery? If the was car was sitting at the shop for days the batery could be low/weak. Test your battery and replace if needed see if those codes go away. Hope this helps.

[PhaceN52]

That zip tie is there because they lost the metal locking clip on the black connector, it's on the oil pressure switch/sensor. You have a code for the crankshaft sensor that's casually /s right under the starter, on realoem it's called pulse sensor for crankshaft/transmission, so probably they damaged the connector/wire/sensor and it's triggering the gearbox malfunction. P1727, 51A7 "No message (engine speed)" - Transmission control, so as above. I'd remove the intake manifold to check the crankshaft sensor, that's probably also the cause for your long crank

[relative4]

Holy crap, did you get the work done at Jiffy Lube?

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by relative4

Holy crap, did you get the work done at Jiffy Lube?

I think the grease monkey at JL would take more pride in their work this this mechanic did!

[gonzobrains]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

Where are you in GA? Happy to help you out if you need (have access to ISTA / INPA).
I defer to George and his excellent diagnosis skills!

I am in Cumming, GA.

[lookalikehuuh]

Did you ever get this resolved? THIS is exactly why I do my own work on every car I own. The clown that worked on your car broke everything possible for them to break and probably ended up breaking the oil separator too which I'm sure they charged you to replace.

It does make sense they also broke the crank position sensor because a long crank is a sign that the car doesn't know where the crank currently is, so what happens is the car takes longer to start because its attempting to determine the crank position using other sensor calculations.

This is the perfect scenario for a LAWSUIT, you just need a good BMW mechanic to document everything that is broken around the intake manifold/starter since they had to entirely remove the manifold and CCV system to get to the starter. Its really not very difficult at all for anyone that knows what they are doing.

[Hoody007]

Originally Posted by gonzobrains

I am in Cumming, GA.

I’m quite a bit farther south, but no worries!

I know of a very well regarded BMW shop not too far from you (15 miles or so). PM me if you’re interested! Friend of mine owns and runs the shop. I’ll be over there next month if you are able to bring your E90 by.