[gIzzE]

My guess is the filter not fitted correctly, or just crap and collapsed.

Nothing wrong with Comma oil, if the correct low ash LL04 spec.

Have you checked the oil level? Ticking is usually from low oil level, so might just need a smidge more putting in. But if that is right I would imagine it is the oil filter, I would just remove the filter housing and check the filter is in properly.
I have seen them put in and the locating pin not in the right place, so it just gets crushed rather than slotting into place, this will crush the filter slightly too and could cause the symptoms you have.

Take the filter housing off and wiggle the filter around and make sure it is secure.

[PaulN]

Thanks I will check. If anything the oil is overfilled slightly.

[gIzzE]

How much by?

That is even worse. I would seriously not drive it until you get the level back down below the max.

Have you got something you can suck it out with?

[PaulN]

only 1mm on the dip stick. Hardly worth mentioning

[Berkay]

I have the same problem

[duchess8180]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Just my 2 cents, the lifter noise happens in this condition:

- Car is started cold and runs low rpm and about one minute or so, and then shut down.

- After this happened you start the car, it gives ticking noise. Ticking noise goes away after car warms up and you drive around 3000 rpm.

So, if your routine with the car doesn't involve running the car short periods of time at low rpm when it was cold already, you won't experience this.

I have a 2006 325, I had this happening now and then. During warranty I was able to get dealer replace the lifters, but I was late to the header replacement game. BMW at that point was insisting on only changing the lifters. So I have been watching out at what conditions this was happening, and by this time I am pretty sure of it.

If you need to drive the car short time, say for instance you need to move your car from driveway to let your spouse's car out, and this is done when bimmer was already cold, and it took at least a minute to do this (car sat idle a bit), next time you start your car it will likely start ticking. (If you have already new version of the engine head, that seems to resolve this). And the noise goes away after you really drive the car, like really warming it and driving it at rpms like 3000 or over.

My speculation to what is happening, the hydraulic lifters both get filled with oil, but at the same time drain a little as they are in use, so that they adjust their height and do their job. When engine is cold, due to tolerances, at least one lifter drains a bit faster than it is being filled by the pressurized oil. So if you idle the car at least a minute when it was cold at start, it gives enough time for the lifter to drain by this time. Next time you start, as the time passed some more drained, it starts ticking, because it needs to be filled again and that is only happening when oil coming in is faster then oil draining, which happens when engine warm and oil pressure is high (high rpm). If you just shut down the engine when it was warm and not ticking already, the lifter contains enough oil and the oil stays in there until next time you start the engine. So cold starts at dealers usually don't show this problem (my experience). You need a cold start, idle run at least a minute or two, then shut down. Then wait somewhat and start the car and idle a bit more, then it starts to tick, and left idling it ticks louder.

My solution, if I know I am driving the car cold and a very short time, I stay in 1st gear only so that it runs high rpms, and try to not let it sit idling. And before shutting down run the engine 3000 rpm or so a few seconds. It works.

Another thing, this issue is being discusses for all these years, I am yet to see one engine damage complaint that is genuinely related to this ticking issue. My engine is running fine for instance without any problems, even though under the conditions I described it ticked.

That's the exactly what I have experienced since I got the 2007 328i 8 years ago. Thanks for your sum up.
After trying all the measures, the lifter noise still there. I finally attempt to replace these lifters (only exhaust side). my questions are
1, can I set TDC just by 2 QR code up without lock the pin of flywheel?because I am lazy to remove the intake manifold and starter to get there.
2 can i put the exhaust cam back in without the timing tool because no movement VANOS?

[1BimmerBoy1]

I used a "thicker" oil and the noise when away

[srkaje]

Hello eveyone, I'm new here.
I can hear this (maybe metallic?) ticking noise from the engine, more of a "slight rattle".
I'm instantly thinking about a timing chain, I don't think it's ever been replaced. Can you guess from this short video? https://youtube.com/shorts/t7QSyeqJHGA

[Eric Pearson]

Cool

[kaysonb]

Im having the same ticking problem to, I’m pretty sure it’s my injects cause I got this code when I first got the car at 110,000 miles
Exhaust Gas Sensor Monitor Bank 1-
Sensor 2 ($02) (1/5)
Module#: $78
Rich to lean sensor threshold voltage ($01)
Min: 0.000000 (V)
Max: 1.099342 (V)
Test Value: 0.640012 (V)

If you have any suggestions please let me know, I don’t want my baby to go out on me😂

[turbotrana]

I have two 2008 N52B30 powered cars. One I have had 100k km to 240k km and the other 36k km to 80k km. I found that the tick comes down to oil viscocity. If I use 5w30 no tick 99% of time and if any appears on startup it goes very quickly.
If I use anything heavier I will get the blasted tick.
Note that it does take many many km for the lifters to blead out the old oil before the ticking stops. I reckon you could even try 0w 20 cause lifter clearances seem to be very tight. Definately heavier oil is wrong.