[ctuna]

If it's a RED ELV signal it will not start till the ELV counter is cleared
or the ELV error resolved.
and or you have a good key . If the key battery is dead and its a
comfort access key replace the battery . If it's the rechargeable key
it should still start the car in the slot still you could try charging it
with a toothbrush charger or some other kind of inductive charger.
Make sure you fully charge the main battery and its over 12.4 Volts

[ctuna]

If it's a RED ELV signal it will not start till the ELV counter is cleared
or the ELV error resolved.
and or you have a good key . If the key battery is dead and its a
comfort access key replace the battery in the Fob (CR2032) . If it's the rechargeable key
it should still start the car in the slot still you could try charging it
with a toothbrush charger or some other kind of inductive charger.
Two types of keys Comfort Access Has a replaceable battery .
Non comfort access key is rechargeable.
Either key should start the car weather the battery in the Fob is charged or
not when its in the slot.

[fleet]

Originally Posted by ctuna

If it's a RED ELV signal it will not start till the ELV counter is cleared
or the ELV error resolved.
and or you have a good key . If the key battery is dead and its a
comfort access key replace the battery in the Fob (CR2032) . If it's the rechargeable key
it should still start the car in the slot still you could try charging it
with a toothbrush charger or some other kind of inductive charger.
Two types of keys Comfort Access Has a replaceable battery .
Non comfort access key is rechargeable.
Either key should start the car weather the battery in the Fob is charged or
not when its in the slot.

I get that the car won't start with the ELV light on, but can't even put the car in the accessory position as it sits, and, with no power, can't get INPA etc to read/scan. Not being able to get accessory power is why I think either my key is no longer recognized, or I have a start/stop switch problem, or ???

Car is currently bricked in front of one of my garage doors. I'll check all of the fuses, again, tomorrow.

[ctuna]

Check the battery voltage that means measuring it.
There should be more than 12 volts at the OBD connector.

Did you have Inpa working before this ?

[ikaanb]

Great topic.

I have a question about CAS module replacement and not working key. Engine of my car is swapped to N46b20b with new ECU. They changed also CAS module, only one key opens the doors and starts the car. Previous owner gave me the other key but it doesnt work. As I understand from the topics other key is not defined in current CAS.

Non-CA
ECU -> 2011
CAS -> 2010
working key -> 5WK4 9125 868MHz (probably came with current cas module)
not working key -> 5WK4 9121 868MHz(probably orijinal key for the car)
Metal parts of the keys are completely same...

I went to local key repair shop, he said that not working key cannot be identified, get new blank key and it can be identified to car. Is there a way to identify this key? or I should buy blank key? if so, aftermarket 868mhz non-ca key is OK? such as: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33031917681.html Or for not working key, transponder chip change is enough for reprogramming, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32897099002.html

[fleet]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Check the battery voltage that means measuring it.
There should be more than 12 volts at the OBD connector.

Did you have Inpa working before this ?

Lol, I’ll be busting out the multimeter.
INPA is unknown, it is a fresh load as my last laptop met an untimely end. I have not tried it on any other BMW’s so TBD

[ctuna]

Did you read the stuff at the beginning of this thread at all?

[fleet]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Did you read the stuff at the beginning of this thread at all?

Multiple times . What part do you seem to think I’m missing?

[PetrolBenny]

Hi folks, I had a low batt warning from my old key fob (2005 330i) and following various posts opened the sealed key and replaced the battery by soldering in a new one. Good news is that all the remote functions are back up and working. BUT...... car ignition is totally dead. The slot doesn’t grab and lock the key and pushing start button lights nothing on the dash. I don’t see any damage to the PCB nor chips/resistors nor have I changed anything else’s on the car.

I only have one key and I’m loathed to go to pay for a new key at the dealers. Any ideas on what to try???

Cheers

[markymark84]

Hey Nick,

new member so i cant send you a PM. Would you be able to PM me directly?
Looking to swap chips on my CA Key

1 of them got wet, not it does nothing but allow me to start the car.

[markedcw]

Posting updated 2023 pricing to bump this excellent thread.

Husband lost his key last week. It's likely in the house but we live in a large condo project with a common garage. If it was dropped outside and found by a dubious individual, the car could be taken.

BMW SF quoted $500 for the fob, $95 for the blade, and $340 to remove lost key from computer or $935 all in.

Bimmer-tech wanted 335 + 85 + 174 or $594. I found a local coder to remove the previous key for 70 but that would still be $490

Because of this thread, I found a local, licensed, and bonded locksmith that specializes in car keys who quoted $295 all in. He came to me less than 24 hours after our initial call. He seemed very knowledgeable and I watched every step. Job was completed in about 20 minutes.

The only difference that I can see is the aftermarket fob he provided is missing the BMW logo. Hardly worth the extra $195–640 the others wanted.

[POBEP]

Originally Posted by markedcw

Posting updated 2023 pricing to bump this excellent thread.

Husband lost his key last week. It's likely in the house but we live in a large condo project with a common garage. If it was dropped outside and found by a dubious individual, the car could be taken.

BMW SF quoted $500 for the fob, $95 for the blade, and $340 to remove lost key from computer or $935 all in.

Bimmer-tech wanted 335 + 85 + 174 or $594. I found a local coder to remove the previous key for 70 but that would still be $490

Because of this thread, I found a local, licensed, and bonded locksmith that specializes in car keys who quoted $295 all in. He came to me less than 24 hours after our initial call. He seemed very knowledgeable and I watched every step. Job was completed in about 20 minutes.

The only difference that I can see is the aftermarket fob he provided is missing the BMW logo. Hardly worth the extra $195–640 the others wanted.

$295 seems reasonable.

I ordered factory BMW keyfob (with keyed blade) from thebmwminipartstore for $213 shipped.
It activated correctly without any special tools.
If you loose your key again - find a local forum member who can code out missing one at no charge in less than 10 minutes

[Ashley92]

Originally Posted by Nateom3

I can cut and Program BMW key fobs if any one needs help. Will one working fob or all keys lost.

I need help with my 2007 328xi.
I don’t have a working key.

[Alexrv3]

2011 bmw 335i Xdrive non-ca

So I recently lost my only key at work, the dealership only gave me one and I just havenÂ’t had time to get another one. I ordered a new one from BMW, its supposed to be programmed already and everything. I picked it up and got home, buttons dont work, unlocked my car with the blade. I put in the keyfob in the key slot because its non-ca, the car doesnÂ’t recognize it and shows key with dash in middle. I tried all the other tricks and it somehow doesnÂ’t work. I dont think the car had more than 10 keys remade but it could possibly. It could be that my car battery is dead but i was using another car with jumper. Im not sure what to do, the dealership didnÂ’t know how to fix it.