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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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LR Window Down, Won't Raise
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10-24-2024, 07:54 PM | #1 |
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LR Window Down, Won't Raise
2007 328xi E91: Left Rear Window went down by Driver Button, won't raise at all, with either Driver Switch Cluster or LR Door Window Switch. Audible click/whir for ~ 1 second with either button. It worked properly several times in last week, & all other windows work normally.
I've removed Door Trim Panel & cut Seal Perimeter "goo" to remove black seal. I have questions on what to inspect/do next. Questions: 1) Anyone who can share their understanding of how electric motor drives Regulator & what can cause failure to "Lift" window? 2) Motor & Regulator appear properly mounted & window went down & up several times in last week. It went down yesterday without any abnormal sound, so it either appears "Stuck" in bottom position, or perhaps motor (which makes sound briefly) "gear drive" (however it works) has failed. 3) Anyone suggest a failed part/component? 4) Anyone suggest what to remove (and how) to inspect further. I have both INPA & ISTA, & used ISTA procedure to remove Door Panel. Is Activation (INPA or ISTA) helpful if the Window Switches appear to work? 5) Anyone suggest a way to just Raise the Glass and fix it in place with window UP? I don't need to use the window until I get it properly repaired. I'll look for info in Bentley & ISTA tonight, but any Help is welcomed. Thanks, George |
10-24-2024, 10:11 PM | #2 |
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It is your window regulator, they drop like flies in these cars. I've replaced 5 out of 8 regulators in my 2 E90's so far. The motor almost never dies, that just gets swapped over to the new regulator.
To get the window up you need to unclip it from the window by pressing the center of the mounting clip, it snaps into a hole in the glass, push it in far enough to clear the hole then lift window off it. You'll need to prop it up with foam inside and/or tape outside to keep it up until you replace regulator. PN: 51357140589 EDIT: 4 out of 5 of the ones I replaced were rear window regulator. I believe the not being used much, as rear windows aren't they seize up. 2 were obvious, the cable broke off and was dangling in the door frame. 1 was off the track inside the spool and one was just too tight to move freely. If there's no obvious damage like broken cable, with the door panel off reach in and give the window a nudge up, I bet it goes up and will go up and 95% of the way down without problem but will stick all the way down. If it won't move at all it's pinched/kinked inside. Don't bother trying to lube any of it hoping to free it up, it won't it's tight in the spool, just replace the regulator, it's a quick relatively inexpensive job. Last edited by 3PedalJake; 10-24-2024 at 10:56 PM.. |
10-25-2024, 10:43 AM | #3 | |
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Quote:
1) Is this the Plastic piece (Yellow on mine) under center of glass, shown at top of regulator, beneath (6) in this RealOEM link (#1 Window Lifter)? https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_5731 2) There appear to be 3 plastic 'prongs' holding the glass, one in middle & one on either side. The center area is behind the Regulator bar. How are you suggesting releasing the glass? Pry center Prong as I lift glass? 3) If I can get glass "Unclipped" from Regulator in bottom-center of glass, I can then Raise glass to Fully-Closed Position, block/tape it closed/up & remove Regulator? I'm able to raise the glass ~ 6 inches with the Window button, so I can manually move it from fully down position to ~ 6" Up. Thanks, George |
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10-25-2024, 10:58 AM | #4 |
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I was able to raise the window enough to visualize the "center prong" that fits in hole in bottom of glass. Pushing the plastic prong (in hole in glass) Outboard as I lifted glass with other hand, I was able to disengage glass from Regulator plastic 'carrier' & fully raise/close window.
I'll next try to remove Regulator, & post back, with Photos. Thanks again Jake, George |
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3PedalJake3271.00 Mike K384.50 |
10-25-2024, 11:15 AM | #5 |
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Hi George. Yes that is the piece that clips the window. On the central part you'll see a plastic button protruding through a hole in the glass, that is what you need to press in. Use a plastic trim tool or a dowel or piece of wood, don't pry or push with metal tool. Put some upward pressure on the underside of the glass as you push and the window will start to move up and obscure the hole so the button can't go back through it. When you get it loose it will slide up to the top easily, then wedge some foam rubber inside the door panel to prop it up. I also put tape over the top of the door draped to the inside and outside or the glass. After this it's one wiring connector and 3 nuts to remove the regulator, rotate it until you find the orientation that it will slip out of the door panel.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...ostcount=24891 |
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Mike K384.50 |
10-25-2024, 01:50 PM | #6 |
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Got the window raised & taped shut with Duct Tape. Will use Adhesive Remover to get tape residue off when done. Removed
Regulator & found the green plastic Glass Carrier was broken where 'Lift Cable' attached. NOT sure if that broke & then cable wrapped at motor gear, or if cable wrapped & that broke Green Carrier. Attached is photo of broken Regulator. Amazon has replacement Regulator for $20 (as does Autohaus AZ) & repair kit for $13. I'll post other photos & complete Procedure first of next week after repairs complete. ISTA, & also Bentley which appears to be based on ISTA, BOTH say you have to remove Glass (Major hassle) to remove Regulator. That is NOT the case. As Jake indicated, you can just Unclip Center Prong of Green Glass Carrier, as shown in attached photo, by pressing Outboard, and slide glass up, tape glass in closed position, & remove Regulator. If glass were stuck in a position where you could NOT disengage glass from carrier, you could cut cable. If you've never done this before, it's actually rather simple, ONCE you see photos of the parts & HOW they work. Just getting Door Trim Panel off is a challenge if you've never done it before & don't have ISTA, but simple if you know how. Thanks again Jake! George |
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3PedalJake3271.00 Mike K384.50 |
10-26-2024, 09:03 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
Isn’t there a preferred window regulator from this group? |
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3PedalJake3271.00 |
10-26-2024, 11:11 AM | #9 |
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Oh no! Almost like asking what oil is best!
I personally used a Many folks here on this forum rave about the upgraded URO regulators. Cheap brand but they addressed some weaknesses of the original design. Edit: It was Aisin, not Denso. Got my Japanese OEMs mixed up. I did use a Denso radiator on that car. Last edited by lowrydr310; 10-26-2024 at 01:55 PM.. |
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Mike K384.50 3PedalJake3271.00 |
10-26-2024, 01:18 PM | #10 |
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I looked through my notes and I've been recommended Aisin RPB 13 & 14 for my e91 once mine let go:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...ELt9Qx7tmDs%3D |
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3PedalJake3271.00 |
10-26-2024, 01:47 PM | #11 |
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Appears there's 2 distinct types of regulator from the various mfgrs. The OE is like the one George posted with naked cable running up and down to pulleys, looking like a compound bow. The other is like the one Mike linked and the latest one I swapped in from Lemforder which has a shield on the upper cable like a clutch or speedometer cable from a MC. All the ones that have failed for me were the OE type, time will tell if the other style is any more robust.
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Mike K384.50 lowrydr3102020.00 |
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