[AWD Addict]

Originally Posted by swellengear

But from what you're describing, my bet is on a bent rod.

That was my first guess as well. This sounds like rod knock turning into a spun bearing.

[E93Dude]

Originally Posted by Cenflamark

By the way I inspected oil filter. No shavings but oil takes a long time to drain out of filter housing.

…Probably because the car runs rough and doesn’t have enough time to get the oil up to operating temperature. Am really surprised that the only code being the one is a MAP sensor with all the problems OP described.

Please run a OBDII scan and post the actual codes.

And did you really put all index 12 injectors in? A new set from FCP Euro is almost $2,500….

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...13538648937kt2

[Cenflamark]

Hello! Well I have news! After the horoscope reading.. lol… I put the plugs back in and tightened to spec then put coil packs on randomly. The car started! It idols and RUNS!! I drove it 10 miles! BUT.. it runs like shit.. I know I’m probably damaging the engine. It takes about 30 seconds to get to 60 mph. And if I sit at a red light for too long it starts to smoke under the hood but IT RUNS!! Any new hypothesis’?

[swellengear]

You need to post your fault codes. All of them.

[Podunk]

Originally Posted by Cenflamark

Hey- thank you SOO much for your reply! It was bigtime informative for a novice like me. The car is an automatic. No cracked plugs or porcelain. But there was some carbon build up on them. I do have a borescope but I’ve never stuck it in the spark plug holes before. I will do that at first light. I hope you are wrong about broken rod but I think you’re probably right. I appreciate your insight. The car wasn’t cold when I punched it but that is the point of where it went wrong- like maybe something broke off or something. Runs like crap now for about 2 minutes before conking out. I got like 7-8k in the car and a dealership wants to only offer me between $1500-2000. I REALLY don’t want to sell it but I’m pulling my hair out here. I’ll let you know results of leak down. Thanks!

i get ya, a lot of money in the car for a shit return on investment. being automatic, removing the torque converter from the equation may be easier then if it was a manual, also knowing it is an automatic, and you mention more a shoe in dryer versus a unbalanced metal hunk in dryer, i have seen flex plates crack and sound like a bad engine. I've also seen them crack and bend and cause the torque converter to move oblong and make excessive vibrations and noise. although i haven't seen it on a BMW.. however if your modded it is a possibility.

the carboned up cylinders may have worn rings, a leak down test or compression test would verify, as it's likely from oil leaking past the rings into the combustion chamber.
however it could also be worn valve stem seals. ( why a leak down would say whether rings or stem seals)

good luck getting it figured out, once i get my VAC baffle i nstalled and oil pan back on, i get the fun of yanking out my manual trans and clutch assy/flywheel to replace a pushed out rear main.. YAY.. POS PCV system..

i've also come to the conclusion BMW means Bring my Wallet if your not mechanically inclined, and if you are "be mechanical wizard" ...

[whyzee125]

You're continuing to risk further damage by guessing and asking the web without even posting up what's been asked.

If you already know you have a bad MAP sensor, you have a good chance of running lean which may have already caused engine damage.

The clean piston tops would indicate the carbon has either melted off due to extreme combustion temps from a lean event or it's been washed off from leaking injectors.

The injectors absolutely have to be coded or they're spraying the wrong amount of fuel, further throwing things off.

Were they brand new or used/"reman"?

[lookalikehuuh]

Originally Posted by whyzee125

You're continuing to risk further damage by guessing and asking the web without even posting up what's been asked.

If you already know you have a bad MAP sensor, you have a good chance of running lean which may have already caused engine damage.

The clean piston tops would indicate the carbon has either melted off due to extreme combustion temps from a lean event or it's been washed off from leaking injectors.

The injectors absolutely have to be coded or they're spraying the wrong amount of fuel, further throwing things off.

Were they brand new or used/"reman"?

ever heard of selective hearing? I think OP suffers from selective reading. He asks for help but never responds to any of the legitimate questions anyone asks and doesn't follow any of the advice given. Looks like he just wants to document how he swirls into further documenting the destruction of his engine.

[Cenflamark]

Not true! I’m sorry for the delay! Is there a way to code the injectors without having to DL impa or ISTA and drag the laptop to the car and hope that it’s charged then go through setup and it never works then power dies on laptop. Major fuc—- hassle. Isn’t there an easier way? I freggin bought BimmerCode but apparently you can’t CODE with it! Makes no sense.

[Cenflamark]

The injectors are used by the way. But they are 12’s!

[lookalikehuuh]

Ok so let's start by saying that just because they are index 12s doesn't mean they work, or that they are even original injectors since nowadays there are soooo many fakes that the only way to guarantee is to buy them from a reputable source. If you haven't coded the car with with the correct values for your injectors how the hell do you expect your car will run correctly? Those values tell your engine computer the specific flow characteristics of each individual injector so the car can know exactly how much fuel is being injected per each millisecond of injector engagement.

Where did you source the injectors and how do you know they are actually properly working injectors, or are real BMW injectors? For all you know the injectors are just straight up spraying fuel 24/7. Also if you too lazy to setup a laptop with INPA/ISTA but you think you are going to successfully diagnose a potentially failing engine?

Anyway, IF YOU WANT HELP YOU NEED TO ANSWER ALL THE QUESTIONS, NOT JUST PICK 1 AND RUSH OFF. Because let's be honest here everything in your latest response is well... BULLSHIT, A huge pile of it.

Unless your laptop is older than 15 years battery life should easily be at least a couple of hours. I literally have a macbook pro 13 inch from Mid 2012 that I run a windows Virtual Machine with INPA and it works great.... yet its 12 years old... what's your excuse again? oh right... bullshit, as stated above.

JUST STOP! SLOW THE FUCK DOWN! READ ALL OF THE COMMENTS THOROUGHLY AND TAKE THE TIME TO REPLY TO THE QUERIES. Stop being a LAZY PIECE OF CRAP, or don't for all I care, but if you chose to be a lazy piece of crap stop asking for help and taking people's time. The information these guys are giving you may very well help you solve the issue with your car. First though you need to stop, get your shit together and actually process what they are telling you to do and/or provide them to help with the diagnosis.

I have been around for many years and I trust the knowledge on this forum over ANY DEALERSHIP Technician working at BMW today about E90 engines.

And for the record.....You still owe everyone a list of codes that your car is currently throwing. Also of note just because an engine starts doesn't mean you should go out and drive it, a BMW inline 6 MUST be silky smooth to be a healthy enough engine to drive. If it's not silky smooth do not drive it.