[E70E90E88]

Ok I have one for you guys, my old 2007 E90 (328XI, Daughters car now) stalled on her the other day while driving and before it came to a complete stop it restarted itself. (Neat little trick but it only lasted half a second at best). Anyway I pulled the codes with my BT cable and found it had a camshaft correlation error and another error about the intake Vanos. At this point the car restarted and was now running smooth like normal without issue but it did stall on her so I figured I better address things. Okay so the car has 150k miles on it so I figured two new Vanos would be a good start. I changed them both with the Vaico models. I started the car right up and it ran same as before, smooth and without issue. However I did notice the idle was a little rough, nothing major but a little jumpy more so than before. Adaptations came to mind so shut it off and I did the reset in BT for the Vanos and VVT and waited a few minutes. I started it up and it almost stalled itself right away. It struggled but finally got smoother after maybe 5 minutes of crazy bad idle. Anyway I took it for a spin and under light pedal on hills it feels like I am jumping up and down on the gas pedal. Same thing in cruise. It NEVER did this before and I figured the adaptation was still happing (and yes I also tried the gas pedal trick to reset them.) Anyway it warmed up and started running like normal but now with a lot more power. I thought everything was good until the next morning when I cold started the car (maybe 30F outside) and it idled horrid again and once again had a surging feeling on hills. I can just give it more gas and it stops doing it but I noticed that's what the RPM gets above 3,000 that it acts normal when cold.

Ok so I figured maybe a bad Vanos (yes the new ones) so I installed the old vanos and it made no change, jerky when cold uphill with poor idle. So I did what a lot of people should do and I searched before posting, seems many folks feel a throttle adaptation reset is what I needed so I did that, I had to use INPA because BT does not support it. Now it gets interesting, my SES light instantly came on after the throttle adaptations yet I have not active codes. I did have two historical codes for the electric water pump and the IBS module but both show they are not active and that they dont cause an SES light. For the life of me I cant get the SES to go out now. I reset and cleared all codes and it has no effect on it. Maybe it is also related to Adaptations?

Anyway I figured with the age of the car I better replace the camshaft and crankshaft sensors but that had no effect on the surging.

I have a lot of folks talking about vacuum leaks but I smoke tested it and nothing was found, plus the vanos swap and reset of adaptations is when this surging jerky uphill feeling when cold started so it makes no sense that something else broke at the same time I installed the new vanos. Nothing else was disconnected and I swapped the vanos in under 10 minutes.

I plan to swap the water pump / thermostat and look into the IBS error. The car has no charging issues that I have seen.

Has anyone else had the SES light stay on with no codes in the system after an adaptations reset? How about surging and bucking uphill under light throttle below 3k RPM after swapping the vanos actuators?

Until I get this fixed she is driving around in the X5 (50I) and that thing is not only a pile of crap but a gas hog so I would rather she not drive that around so I need to get the E90 fixed or replaced (hopefully fixed, she is 17 and the idea of getting her another car is scary considering teenagers are not easy on cars.)

I look forward to hearing if anyone has any ideas, especially on that phantom SES light as I have never had that come on without any codes in the entire system. I also used INPA to verify that finding, no codes at all.

Thanks in advance

[bsmoov]

I've had those issues before and it's related to the crankshaft position sensors.

You said you replaced them but with what kind? I had the same issues and tried to be cheap and replaced it was aftermarket and it didn't fix the issue or it fixed it intermittingly and symptoms of rough idle jerky motor and car shutting off while driving. The aftermarket ones have a significantly smaller o-ring and doesn't sit right. Like it sits there and when you tighten the 1 bolt it stays, but it's definitely not seated right.

I bought an oem one off of fcpeuro and on the reviews someone else had the same issue. Bought an aftermarket one and didn't work, but bought the OEM one and fixed it. When I got the OEM one and installed it the o-ring was at least 3-4 times bigger/thicker and when I installed it it made an audible pop/click to ensure it was seated correctly. A rule of thumb to remember while installing it is if you can pull out the sensor by hand, it's not in there correctly. If you install it right, it'll make that audible confirmation and it'll be on there tight!

[bsmoov]

oh yeah. not sure how you replaced it either, but make sure you take off your intake manifold to replace.

There is NO way in hell you can properly seat it in from the bottom or using extensions from the top. Messing around like that is a waste of time and you'll be able to get it out eventually, but putting it in and properly seating it? NOPE!

[E70E90E88]

I can tell you the intake removal SUCKED and I did try to get at it from the underside first for about 2 hours before saying ENOUGH. I used VDO's from FCP Euro (small world). However I added those AFTER it started acting up and they made no difference. That said I have been burned before by name brand parts new out of the box.

Any thoughts on the SES light that started up after the adaptation reset? Tomorrow I am going to take the car to town and see if it stays on the whole time. I live about 15 miles from the nearest stop sign so I can get it out for a good all around run.

Also you said Crankshaft Sensor(s). I only have one that I know of. I did have two Camshaft sensors however and they are easy to get too. Did you mean Crankshaft sensor or am I missing a second Crankshaft sensor?

[bsmoov]

No just one. Typo.

[MightyMouseTech]

I would disconnect the eccentric shaft sensor and see if there is oil inside. Will often cause similar issues without generating any faults. Couple other things it could be are the usual bad coils and plugs or a failing transfer case if the car is X-Drive. That normally won't cause stalling though.

[E70E90E88]

Well I checked the eccentric shaft sensor an it does not look to have oil in it however the valve cover is leaking oil like a sinking ship so I have decided and ordered a new gasket along with Oil Filter Housing Gasket, Valvetronic Shaft Sensor and ESS Gasket, new plug seals, plugs, coils, a new ESS unit and Valvetronic Eccentric Shaft Actuator and sensor, angle connector and breather hose. Hopefully one of those things helps. I still have the SES light with ZERO codes so that is weird but I think that is just INPA messing with something since that is when it started during INPA adaptations. I will keep you posted.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by E70E90E88

Thanks in advance

Its your plugs and coils. They might be bad but not bad enough to throw a code. You will notice hesitation under load (like going up hill).

[E70E90E88]

Ok so its been a while since I updated everything but here is what I did so far

Intake VANOS solenoid
Exhaust VANOS solenoid
Intake VANOS return filter
Exhaust VANOS filter
Both CAMSHAFT sensors
Crankshaft sensor
Oil pressure sensor
Oil filter coolant housing seal
Intake manifold seal
Valve cover gasket
TB Gasket
PCV hoses
PCV Angle heater
Spark plugs
Ignition coils
Eccentric Shaft seal
Eccentric Shaft Sensor
Eccentric Shaft Actuator
Transmission Filter
Transmission fluid and seals
Electric Water pump
Intelligent Battery System Sensor
"Micky Mouse Flange and clamp"

Cleared adaptations and started the car, SAME EXACT ISSUES, surging idle and bucking going up hills. It all 100% goes away and it runs like a dream car once it goes into closed loop. Zips up the hills with zero issue, no bucking or idle issues at all.

So this got me to thinking a vacuum leak, so I did a smoke test and did not see any leaks at all.

I am going to check adaptations next with INPA to see if they are showing any signs of a leak as well.

I noticed the "surging or idle bumps" are exactly one second apart and it causes the car to shake a bit with each bump (almost like a misfire).

Again it only does it when in open loop. it 100% goes away the second the car switches to closed loop.

Also all the parts listed above are BMW (right down to the spark plugs even). No aftermarket stuff. And all brand new.

Again this problem started when I reset the adaptations and now the check engine light is stuck on even without any codes in the system (INPA or BT). So maybe its possible the ECU went south right at the moment of the reset. I doubt it but at this point I am thinking anything is possible because I have never seen a check engine light stick on without a single code in the system.

I will report back.

[bluewater328]

Sounds like vacuum leak or MAF.

Did you replace whole valve cover with gasket or just the gasket?

[E70E90E88]

Well I did multiple smoke tests and didn't see any smoke leaking at all. I opened the oil fill cover an smoke shot out as did pressure and air but that should be normal, I am using the factory cover however with new gasket. I am suspecting MAF but it shows no errors at all. It is weird because this all started the second I reset adaptations for the first time. Also weird is the check engine light being stuck on without any codes of any sort. So I may have a bad ECU.

[E70E90E88]

Ok I picked up a new MAF tonight ZERO CHANGE, from the dealer and had them scan the car, they said they have NEVER seen a SES MIL light without a code before and suspect the ECU is dead but they dont understand how it is still running. I asked if they had any ideas why it was rough idle on a cold start and they looked at me and said "Are you serious? You have a MIL without codes and you asking what else it could be." This car is about to get towed out back for long term storage (Boneyard of death) as the 2021's are out and some good deals going. It may be less hassle to just get her a 2021 model and be done with it. I will try the ECU swap next and after that its done for unless anyone else has any ideas, I am out of them.

[E70E90E88]

Here are the INPA screen shots during open loop, do you see anything?

[rick100]

Originally Posted by E70E90E88

Ok so its been a while since I updated everything but here is what I did so far

Intake VANOS solenoid
Exhaust VANOS solenoid
Intake VANOS return filter
Exhaust VANOS filter
Both CAMSHAFT sensors
Crankshaft sensor
Oil pressure sensor
Oil filter coolant housing seal
Intake manifold seal
Valve cover gasket
TB Gasket
PCV hoses
PCV Angle heater
Spark plugs
Ignition coils
Eccentric Shaft seal
Eccentric Shaft Sensor
Eccentric Shaft Actuator
Transmission Filter
Transmission fluid and seals
Electric Water pump
Intelligent Battery System Sensor
"Micky Mouse Flange and clamp"

Cleared adaptations and started the car, SAME EXACT ISSUES, surging idle and bucking going up hills. It all 100% goes away and it runs like a dream car once it goes into closed loop. Zips up the hills with zero issue, no bucking or idle issues at all.

So this got me to thinking a vacuum leak, so I did a smoke test and did not see any leaks at all.

I am going to check adaptations next with INPA to see if they are showing any signs of a leak as well.

I noticed the "surging or idle bumps" are exactly one second apart and it causes the car to shake a bit with each bump (almost like a misfire).

Again it only does it when in open loop. it 100% goes away the second the car switches to closed loop.

Also all the parts listed above are BMW (right down to the spark plugs even). No aftermarket stuff. And all brand new.

Again this problem started when I reset the adaptations and now the check engine light is stuck on even without any codes in the system (INPA or BT). So maybe its possible the ECU went south right at the moment of the reset. I doubt it but at this point I am thinking anything is possible because I have never seen a check engine light stick on without a single code in the system.

I will report back.

how much money have you spend on parts alone already?

I m not sure this throw parts at it is the best approach... Spark plugs and coils sure, but you already have put in so many parts that I think taking it to a professional may be the best route at this point.

Im all for DIY but when it doesnt make sense and its costing me too much to see no results , I just take it to the pros...

[matteblue3er]

My stab in the dark is a bad PCV diaphragm in the valve cover

When this collapses, it can cause idle and stalling issues.

[Brian86]

Shot in the dark:

11/2005 n52

I installed a set of vanos actuator solenoids from Vaico.

Junk, both of them. Unable to regulate oil discharge pressure.

DME did not throw a code.

Caused intermittent moderate surging at different engine temps. I could watch cam timing fluctuate up and down on the live plot on my little Foxwell scanner. I could actually swap them intake/exhaust and identify the different incorrect behavior.

I cleaned and reinstalled the old ones and the the engine runs great (for now). The live timing plot is nice and flat with the clean old ones.

[///Makis]

When you did the VCG did you check the ccv hose in the back. I realize if there's any cracks or problems you would have seen it with the smoke test, but it's possible.

Maybe the pcv is failing is there any non normal sound from your engine like the whistling some have reported from the back passenger side

The observation that it runs fine in closed loop makes me think some kind of sensor fault or the wiring to the sensor.

Have you checked anything else?

[Robin427]

Hi,

maybe it's similar to my surging

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1738969

[ioannisST]

Originally Posted by E70E90E88

Ok I picked up a new MAF tonight ZERO CHANGE, from the dealer and had them scan the car, they said they have NEVER seen a SES MIL light without a code before and suspect the ECU is dead but they dont understand how it is still running. I asked if they had any ideas why it was rough idle on a cold start and they looked at me and said "Are you serious? You have a MIL without codes and you asking what else it could be." This car is about to get towed out back for long term storage (Boneyard of death) as the 2021's are out and some good deals going. It may be less hassle to just get her a 2021 model and be done with it. I will try the ECU swap next and after that its done for unless anyone else has any ideas, I am out of them.

It’s been few years of your post. Have you solved it??