[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Dude, sometimes you just frighten me. That's all I'm going to say...

That makes 2 of us, I scare myself on the regular. Today I'm stuck once again, I thought swapping the actuators would be a simple task, but the motors are in such a position that it's impossible to get them over the star shaft of the flaps unless the flaps travel past the stops, which obvs the can't do without breaking off. I think I'm gonna have to slap it all together enough to turn the car on so I can ISTA the flap motors into a more agreeable position... hopefully. Today is 80 degrees here in south jersey so I'm taking the pupper and Mrs. 3P to dog beach, I'll think on this problem on the ride. Thankfully the 330i is running perfectly

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Back in the day I was installing a new radio in my wife's Z3. An aftermarket Alpine. New speakers, and added speakers to the bridge behind the seats. A complete rewire job. I had the entire interior out and the center of the dash out. Ms. Efthreeoh came over to the shop during the surgery and freaked out seeing her car gutted to stuch a state.

I avoided this kind of scenario by letting Mrs. 3P buy herself a new car, she picked a Hyundai Santa Fe which I have zero interest in working on so no freakouts lol.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by jsunma

I fear having to replace my heater core, but suspect that i will some day.

The key to doing what you're doing is (I feel) that this is not a daily driver or car that you have to have back on the road shortly. I've done exactly this same process on my hobby car (a Volvo 240), but can't wrap my head around doing it to the E91. Unless of course it was the time of year when I might take the E91 off the road for a month and drive the Volvo. But still...scary stuff.

Respect to you!

Thanks pal Yeah I wouldn't attempt any of this on a car I needed for transportation. Thankfully I have a fleet of craigslist special cars and trucks so always at least one of them is always working.

[Cal122]

Thanks for taking us along on this project and sharing pictures! Been through my fair share of interior noises on my ’06 with sport package. Noise wise, the sport suspension can be harsh, but I’ve had success in getting the interior generally noise free.

Some indispensable items in my toolbox:
DuPont Krytox GPL 205 0.5oz
DuPont Krytox GLP 105 with needle nose 0.5oz
BMW Gummi-Pflege

The 205 is more of a grease and the 105 is more of a liquid where the needle nose applicator is great. If you shop around, you can get a good price on the 0.5oz size and they’ll last years. The spec sheets indicate they are designed for interiors, and a few car manufacturers spec them in their TSBs when dealing with interior noises (I guess if it works for Cadillac…)

Handful of areas I was able to correct in case it's helpful

-Plastic Trim panel on top/center of dashboard (where the center speaker goes on Logic7). Mine disintegrated when I tried to remove it, but I replaced it with new and used GPL205 around the perimeter and where the clips lock in.
-Same for the small side defroster vents on the top of the dashboard. They might squeak, but you can get GPL105 in there without removing them and it will fix it.
-All Air Vents. The dial to open/close the vents can slightly disintegrate with age and there’s a spring in there that might rattle as a result. BMW went through many iterations of the vents, I replaced with the latest LCI version.
-Air Vent Foam Tape. The foam tape around the vents (when they are pulled out) is mostly disintegrated at this point, it causes the plastics to rub together. I used MD building Products 02055 in 3/16 x 3/8” as BMW doesn’t sell the foam tape separate to the vents.
-Center console wood. For 2006, BMW had a TSB, they recommend installing a piece of flocked tape (the Tesa tape with velour works) only on the passenger side of the wood where it rubs against the plastic for the lower part of the dash.
-Wood Trim. Replaced the clips for a tighter fit and some 205 on where the wood will rub against the dash/door plastics. Fun fact, on my 2006 they used fabric tape on the back where the AC vents lock into the wood trim. It’s no longer there on the LCI models.
-Door Trim. Ended up replacing the clips for a tighter fit, especially the ones for the wood trim and some 205 on areas that might rub. I started with one door and it went downhill from there with replacing everything, but it was worth it.
-Door lock pegs, I’ve had these rub against the ring on the door panel and create a buzz. 105 on them and it never came back.
-Door Creaking. Of course, Gummi all weatherstripping. But 205 on the flocked part of the upper weatherstripping that rubs against the shadowline always worked for me.
-Steering Wheel Stalks. Had the button on the cruise control make a spring buzz, was able to get 105 in there and so far so good. Originally it sounded like it was coming from the center of the dash (same for most of these noises).
-Wiring Hold Down Clips. I replaced any wiring hold down clips (like the ones inside the door panel) and used Tesa 51036 tape to replace any worn tape. Small change, but really helped.
-Seats/Leather Rubbing. I do a full Leatherique treatment which helps with where the leather rubs, but you can also use some 205 in certain areas, particularly where the plastic seat button trim rubs against the leather. On the LCI, BMW moved to using vinyl and velour in certain areas that may rub, like the back seats where the seat belt buckles are. Assume it was partly cost cutting, but also to help with noise.

I’ve also noticed the flappers on the HVAC might rattle once in a blue moon. I’m not sure if it’s due to the stepper motors aging, insulation on the flaps missing or something else. I solve that one by adjusting the temperature/vents and it goes away.

Looking forward to seeing how your HVAC rebuild progresses!

[3PedalJake]

Thanks Cal122 I'm gonna look into that Krytox stuff. More weapons in the arsenal is always a good thing. I will try to pay attn to all those spots you mentioned as I put it back together

[3PedalJake]

Well not 100% off topic anyway. I had a day off to think on this and got as straight as possible in my mind the steps I had to take to move this project along.

This was my day off. This is not a political post, my dog is non-partisan and would vote for whoever is giving her treats or toys or scritchies. She sniffed this out on Dog Beach as we were strolling thru the sand....

[3PedalJake]

NGL, this job isn't real fun. It's like doing a 3D jigsaw puzzle while playing Twister. I got everything from the old box transferred which is the wiring harness, 8 flap motors, 3 temp sensors, the blower housing and the aluminum piping from the heater core. The old heater core looked in good condition at least externally, but for $60 I wasn't gonna skip replacing it. The evaporator makes you take it halfway apart to install but after a little tussle got that installed. I had to leave 2 motors dangling because I couldn't get them to line up with the flap drive shaft.
I put the unit back roughly in place and the cage loosely around it with a couple nuts holding it roughly in place then re-connected the unit, the key slot, start button, headlight switch, cluster and temp control panel. From there I was able to reconnect the battery and turn it on to accessory position. I used Protools to actuate the motors until I got them to a position I could get them on the drive shafts, then a 5.5mm ignition wrench to tighten the screws.
Now I can finally start putting it back together

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by ZGator

oh yeah the Z3 audio system is a weird complex beast - on the bright side you can access the evaporator easier than the subwoofer! Seriously it slides out from the side with barely any removal of dash..

Same with the E30.