[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Dude, sometimes you just frighten me. That's all I'm going to say...

That makes 2 of us, I scare myself on the regular. Today I'm stuck once again, I thought swapping the actuators would be a simple task, but the motors are in such a position that it's impossible to get them over the star shaft of the flaps unless the flaps travel past the stops, which obvs the can't do without breaking off. I think I'm gonna have to slap it all together enough to turn the car on so I can ISTA the flap motors into a more agreeable position... hopefully. Today is 80 degrees here in south jersey so I'm taking the pupper and Mrs. 3P to dog beach, I'll think on this problem on the ride. Thankfully the 330i is running perfectly

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Back in the day I was installing a new radio in my wife's Z3. An aftermarket Alpine. New speakers, and added speakers to the bridge behind the seats. A complete rewire job. I had the entire interior out and the center of the dash out. Ms. Efthreeoh came over to the shop during the surgery and freaked out seeing her car gutted to stuch a state.

I avoided this kind of scenario by letting Mrs. 3P buy herself a new car, she picked a Hyundai Santa Fe which I have zero interest in working on so no freakouts lol.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by jsunma

I fear having to replace my heater core, but suspect that i will some day.

The key to doing what you're doing is (I feel) that this is not a daily driver or car that you have to have back on the road shortly. I've done exactly this same process on my hobby car (a Volvo 240), but can't wrap my head around doing it to the E91. Unless of course it was the time of year when I might take the E91 off the road for a month and drive the Volvo. But still...scary stuff.

Respect to you!

Thanks pal Yeah I wouldn't attempt any of this on a car I needed for transportation. Thankfully I have a fleet of craigslist special cars and trucks so always at least one of them is always working.

[Cal122]

Thanks for taking us along on this project and sharing pictures! Been through my fair share of interior noises on my ’06 with sport package. Noise wise, the sport suspension can be harsh, but I’ve had success in getting the interior generally noise free.

Some indispensable items in my toolbox:
DuPont Krytox GPL 205 0.5oz
DuPont Krytox GLP 105 with needle nose 0.5oz
BMW Gummi-Pflege

The 205 is more of a grease and the 105 is more of a liquid where the needle nose applicator is great. If you shop around, you can get a good price on the 0.5oz size and they’ll last years. The spec sheets indicate they are designed for interiors, and a few car manufacturers spec them in their TSBs when dealing with interior noises (I guess if it works for Cadillac…)

Handful of areas I was able to correct in case it's helpful

-Plastic Trim panel on top/center of dashboard (where the center speaker goes on Logic7). Mine disintegrated when I tried to remove it, but I replaced it with new and used GPL205 around the perimeter and where the clips lock in.
-Same for the small side defroster vents on the top of the dashboard. They might squeak, but you can get GPL105 in there without removing them and it will fix it.
-All Air Vents. The dial to open/close the vents can slightly disintegrate with age and there’s a spring in there that might rattle as a result. BMW went through many iterations of the vents, I replaced with the latest LCI version.
-Air Vent Foam Tape. The foam tape around the vents (when they are pulled out) is mostly disintegrated at this point, it causes the plastics to rub together. I used MD building Products 02055 in 3/16 x 3/8” as BMW doesn’t sell the foam tape separate to the vents.
-Center console wood. For 2006, BMW had a TSB, they recommend installing a piece of flocked tape (the Tesa tape with velour works) only on the passenger side of the wood where it rubs against the plastic for the lower part of the dash.
-Wood Trim. Replaced the clips for a tighter fit and some 205 on where the wood will rub against the dash/door plastics. Fun fact, on my 2006 they used fabric tape on the back where the AC vents lock into the wood trim. It’s no longer there on the LCI models.
-Door Trim. Ended up replacing the clips for a tighter fit, especially the ones for the wood trim and some 205 on areas that might rub. I started with one door and it went downhill from there with replacing everything, but it was worth it.
-Door lock pegs, I’ve had these rub against the ring on the door panel and create a buzz. 105 on them and it never came back.
-Door Creaking. Of course, Gummi all weatherstripping. But 205 on the flocked part of the upper weatherstripping that rubs against the shadowline always worked for me.
-Steering Wheel Stalks. Had the button on the cruise control make a spring buzz, was able to get 105 in there and so far so good. Originally it sounded like it was coming from the center of the dash (same for most of these noises).
-Wiring Hold Down Clips. I replaced any wiring hold down clips (like the ones inside the door panel) and used Tesa 51036 tape to replace any worn tape. Small change, but really helped.
-Seats/Leather Rubbing. I do a full Leatherique treatment which helps with where the leather rubs, but you can also use some 205 in certain areas, particularly where the plastic seat button trim rubs against the leather. On the LCI, BMW moved to using vinyl and velour in certain areas that may rub, like the back seats where the seat belt buckles are. Assume it was partly cost cutting, but also to help with noise.

I’ve also noticed the flappers on the HVAC might rattle once in a blue moon. I’m not sure if it’s due to the stepper motors aging, insulation on the flaps missing or something else. I solve that one by adjusting the temperature/vents and it goes away.

Looking forward to seeing how your HVAC rebuild progresses!

[3PedalJake]

Thanks Cal122 I'm gonna look into that Krytox stuff. More weapons in the arsenal is always a good thing. I will try to pay attn to all those spots you mentioned as I put it back together

[3PedalJake]

Well not 100% off topic anyway. I had a day off to think on this and got as straight as possible in my mind the steps I had to take to move this project along.

This was my day off. This is not a political post, my dog is non-partisan and would vote for whoever is giving her treats or toys or scritchies. She sniffed this out on Dog Beach as we were strolling thru the sand....

[3PedalJake]

NGL, this job isn't real fun. It's like doing a 3D jigsaw puzzle while playing Twister. I got everything from the old box transferred which is the wiring harness, 8 flap motors, 3 temp sensors, the blower housing and the aluminum piping from the heater core. The old heater core looked in good condition at least externally, but for $60 I wasn't gonna skip replacing it. The evaporator makes you take it halfway apart to install but after a little tussle got that installed. I had to leave 2 motors dangling because I couldn't get them to line up with the flap drive shaft.
I put the unit back roughly in place and the cage loosely around it with a couple nuts holding it roughly in place then re-connected the unit, the key slot, start button, headlight switch, cluster and temp control panel. From there I was able to reconnect the battery and turn it on to accessory position. I used Protools to actuate the motors until I got them to a position I could get them on the drive shafts, then a 5.5mm ignition wrench to tighten the screws.
Now I can finally start putting it back together

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by ZGator

oh yeah the Z3 audio system is a weird complex beast - on the bright side you can access the evaporator easier than the subwoofer! Seriously it slides out from the side with barely any removal of dash..

Same with the E30.

[3PedalJake]

Tip of the day for those unfortunate enough to find themselves in the middle of this task. When you go to reinstall the HVAC cabinet, the main mounting "nut"/"ferrule" has plastic prongs before the threads start, you have to push the bolt in HARD to get it past these prongs. Don't lean in there to one of the most inaccessible spots on the car, the firewall directly behind the CCV hose, desperately spinning the bolt with your fingertips for an hour trying to get the threads to start like I did. I finally had a peek at the old box and figured it out, after that it went in fine.
Got cabinet, the cage and the new heater hoses and AC o-rings installed in the engine compartment and got that buttoned up. I found a cabin filter housing with the wire loom clips not broken off cheap on ebay so got that in place too.
Have to stop here because waiting on new foam gaskets for the vents where they meet the dash, should be at the local stealer tomorrow.

[3PedalJake]

Got my gasket set from BMW, PN: 64116950976. Cal122 I got some of the magic lube you suggested, found a $10 set on Amazon that included a small quantity of the oil and grease along with a little paintbrush. I also got a set of the needle tip applicator bottles. Today I'll go over all the dash mount points and contact areas and apply a drop or smear of the lube.
This project was so unexpected and so challenging that it overcame my natural OCD to remove every spec of rust, so on the cage I just sanded it down with a Scotchbrite pad and wiped it good with anti-corrosion spray.
Hoping I can get t all back together today... wish me luck bimmer bros.

[StradaRedlands]

Everything's coming up Milhouse!

I've found WD-40 specialty products to be pretty good stuff BTW.
Their namesake product is fine for what it was intended to do as well.

[3PedalJake]

Well finally got it back together. It all works and was getting ready to celebrate, but seems I broke my passenger seat occupancy sensor while I was doing Twister in there Have code 93c3. This is the project that keeps on giving.

Millhouse indeed lol

[marvinstockman]

Regarding squeeky, sometimes it is a metal crack or a cracked weld. Been there, done that, but not on a BMW!

You might try and localize with a sound level meter or an app on you phone.

[DBShiznit]

Holy Cow! It's done. I hope it all went well as far as the noise being gone.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by marvinstockman

Regarding squeeky, sometimes it is a metal crack or a cracked weld. Been there, done that, but not on a BMW!

You might try and localize with a sound level meter or an app on you phone.

Oh jeez I hope it's nothing like that. I'm gonna say prolly not, like you said not on a BMW, lots of questionable plastic in these cars but the metalwork is as solid as they come. I've had my wife listen, she can't really tell either. The problem is it isn't continuous, just enough to be annoying, it wouldbe hard to get enough of it to spot with a level meter.

Originally Posted by DBShiznit

Holy Cow! It's done. I hope it all went well as far as the noise being gone.

It's together anyway lol. Got the coolant filled and double bled, AC system charged. All good no leaks and blowing cold air. All the flaps blow air where they're supposed to, so far so good.
I kneeled on the passenger seat and broke the occupancy sensor while I was playing twister with the dash. Grrrrrrrrr, I just put those new leather seats in there a couple weeks ago, couldn't have broke the old manual seat. The BMW approved repair is to replace the foam on the seat bottom that includes the sensor and the heating element, for over $800 just for the part. I could put a emulator on there but that would gnaw at my OCD. For now I put the old manual vinyl seat back in, that has heat that's all Mrs. 3P cares about. In the winter when project list is shorter I'll swap the cushion from the manual seat.

Now the saddest part of the saga, the squeak is still there same as before . At least it wasn't all in vain, the HVAC box was toast it needed to be replaced but now I gotta hunt elsewhere for the squeak. Tomorrow it goes back on the Quickjack to get the sway bushings lubed and anything else I can check like shields and stuff underneath, I think I ruled out the dash time to cast a wider net.

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

Now the saddest part of the saga, the squeak is still there same as before

Noooooo....!!!!!!!!!!!!

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

Noooooo....!!!!!!!!!!!!

I know, right. Those faces you saw on the TV news the other night? That was me when I heard the squeak as I was pulling out of my driveway... Noooooo....!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Captain Buumer]

Why not take dash apart one detail before each journey.

This way you eventually find what is causing it.

(in my case the long piece that is holding the hazard lights and middle/right vent was causing some noises). I just added some foam where i tough it makes contact and it no longer makes sounds.

Have you tried driving without dash in? Does it still make noise? maybe it's something on the other side of firewall.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by Captain Buumer

Why not take dash apart one detail before each journey.

This way you eventually find what is causing it.

(in my case the long piece that is holding the hazard lights and middle/right vent was causing some noises). I just added some foam where i tough it makes contact and it no longer makes sounds.

Have you tried driving without dash in? Does it still make noise? maybe it's something on the other side of firewall.

I tried that, removed radio and all the trim and vents and it still squeaked. The IHKA box was toast so replaced that and lubed everywhere I could think of to no avail. I looked for squeaky shields and stuff in the engine bal and underneath, lubed the sway bushings and no joy. Rigging it to drive without the dash is next step after I take care of some other fall projects.

[Cal122]

How about the cowl piece that's under the windshield wipers, where the rubber is pushing against the windshield? I had more of a ticking noise than a squeak during cold weather, so I took apart the cowl and in addition to a ton of dirt buildup, found the rubber on the backside that pushes against the windshield was really dry and the bottom of the windshield had some rough etching from rain water. I figured if the door seals can make a creaking noise in the cabin, the windshield has to be the same. Cleaned everything really well, soaked the rubber trim in Gummi and then lubed up all of the parts that rub against the windshield.

[marvinstockman]

I also hate squeeks. I once repaired squeeks on collegues Mustang, on a late night trip back from the airport, by balling and wetting pieces of tissue and forcing them into appropriate spots. He was very appreciative.

Would 1"x2" wood strips on the road be enough to force the squeek.

[marvinstockman]

A dropper with plastic safe silicone oil can be used for troubleshooting, as sprays can get too messy.

[tequila318325]

In my case IT WAS THE CCC HEADUNIT more precisely it was this plastic trim on the CCC head unit when I put pressure on it the creaking disappeared instantly when I stopped holding it the creaking reappeared.