[rjahl]

Originally Posted by riso1988

Thanks - hope that's the case here!

There is a written process for resetting the adaptations on the ZF gearbox.

Most of it is nearly impossible to follow on public roads but I would certainly make sure the gearbox is at operating temperatures before hitting the reset button in INPA.

[riso1988]

Well the code kept on coming back. Got a great price on a rebuild from an experienced shop. Picked up the car yesterday, all is well. Was told the plate and three springs in valve body were shot, the bushings on clutch c were worn, there was a hairline crack in the tube within drum E and the plates of clutch E we're showing slightly burnt. That's much more than I could have anticipated but it's all rebuilt now - each bushing and clutch plate replaced, drum E repaired and the valve body is replaced. Drives as good as ever

[nbravo]

Originally Posted by riso1988

Thanks - hope that's the case here!

All the same exact issues. Waiting on a reply from my tech, he pulled the code and has not gotten back to me in over a week! He worked as a master tech at BMW and I think hes kinda trained to " replace" the trans. I got the first limp mode right after we reset the adaptive settings and I was sure that was why. I sure wish he never touched it, it always worked and still works great. But then 2 weeks ago it happened again when I was up in 4-5th gear. Has not happened again and seems to be fine when driven in M. Lots of reading seems like the solenoids, that seal adapter etc just like you did. I just hope its not in need of replacement of course, the car has 115k and really runs great. I did a lot of work to it CCV, eccentric shaft sensor, Crank shaft position sensor, coils, plugs, motor mounts, all the vanos solenoids, still have an oil leak , headlights shorted so I only have the xenons working and will have to replace whole unit. Too much work has went into it so I don't want to dump it. Anyway I hope it all works out, let me know the final result or any updatye if you don't mind. Thanks

[nbravo]

oops disregard my long response! I see you rebuilt it. Good luck with everything and thanks again for the common info.

[colorado.e9x]

Bumping this. Do you remember how much it cost for the rebuild?

[n0ah305]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Bumping this. Do you remember how much it cost for the rebuild?

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Bumping this. Do you remember how much it cost for the rebuild?

I just got the 4F83 today and literally had plans to do a full service on the transmission fluids, filter, and seals. But after reading here it looks like I should save my $300-$400 in servicing it and just swap with a used transmission. I don't have the funds rn to have it rebuilt. I was thinking maybe going to a junkyard grabbing a cheap transmission then just changing the controller so I won't need to do any coding. I definitely want to do a rebuilt later on but atm this is my only car and want a cheap/fast solution.. any recommendations?

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by n0ah305

I just got the 4F83 today and literally had plans to do a full service on the transmission fluids, filter, and seals. But after reading here it looks like I should save my $300-$400 in servicing it and just swap with a used transmission. I don't have the funds rn to have it rebuilt. I was thinking maybe going to a junkyard grabbing a cheap transmission then just changing the controller so I won't need to do any coding. I definitely want to do a rebuilt later on but atm this is my only car and want a cheap/fast solution.. any recommendations?

As long as your adaptions are within tolerances, alls youd need imo is a refresh

Seals
Solenoids
Fresh fluid
New pan/filter
Reset adaptions, drive normally for a few thousand miles

Besides, if I was putting in a new used tranny I'd still do a refresh

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by riso1988

Thanks - hope that's the case here!

Did you follow the procedure written by ZF for resetting the adaptations? They have some very specific instructions on how the car should be driven.

The instructions are nearly impossible to follow on public roads but I'm sure they are written for a reason.

[n0ah305]

I bought a transmission from a Junkyard that supposedly only has 47,000 miles for $900 but I just noticed a crack on the case. I googled people that have been able to fix cracks in transmission cases. What do you guys think? Should I just fix the crack and proceed with the transmission swap? I ordered new seals, ATF oil, bolts, filter/pan, rear main seal from FCP EURO..

[n0ah305]

Originally Posted by n0ah305

I bought a transmission from a Junkyard that supposedly only has 47,000 miles for $900 but I just noticed a crack on the case. I googled people that have been able to fix cracks in transmission cases. What do you guys think? Should I just fix the crack and proceed with the transmission swap? I ordered new seals, ATF oil, bolts, filter/pan, rear main seal from FCP EURO..

Here are the photos..

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by n0ah305

Here are the photos..

Presumably, you have some type of warranty from the salvage yard, I'd get them to replace or refund.

[n54.Izzy]

Hey I’m having some issues and I was wondering if anyone knew what I should do,

I have a 2009 BMW 335 XI

About a month ago my car had some slipping going on, and obviously I jumped on the forum watched videos and altimitley I decided to change all the transmission seals and solenoids as well as fluids.

I did reset the the cars adaptations values however I took it for a test drive and still have some problems. Car drove good in manual but wouldn’t go to 6th gear in regular Drive mode. After driving with manual mode car drove fairly well. Then after driving around 65-70 the Car jumped into like limp mode after about 5-10 miles. Throwing 2 codes.

4F92 EGS: Ratio Monitoring, Clutch A-C

4F9F EGS: Ratio Monitoring, Gearshift
3-2

Someone please help I’m exhausted

[colorado.e9x]

I had that happen with my 330. Same exact scenario as you. 4F83 was my primary code though. Limp mode was always predictable. Any upward elevation change at 1500-2k rpm it was guaranteed that it was going into limp mode. I had two workarounds: 1- downshift when I seen a hill, at least 3k rpm and it'd never do it. And 2- always had protool loaded up next to me on the transmission page, ready to clear the limp code on the go.

The ultimate conclusion- clutch packs were worn too far, replaced transmission with a used low mileage one. Moved my brand new solenoids over and did new seals, tranny pan and fluid again. Kept the donor mechatronics and coded my vin to it

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by riso1988

Well the code kept on coming back. Got a great price on a rebuild from an experienced shop. Picked up the car yesterday, all is well. Was told the plate and three springs in valve body were shot, the bushings on clutch c were worn, there was a hairline crack in the tube within drum E and the plates of clutch E we're showing slightly burnt. That's much more than I could have anticipated but it's all rebuilt now - each bushing and clutch plate replaced, drum E repaired and the valve body is replaced. Drives as good as ever

Bringing the thread from the dead... lol Did you rebuilt your existing one, or you purchase a new rebuilt tranny? Can I ask how much did you pay? I may have to do this for my E88. Replaced fluid, solenoids all small gaskets and still getting same error except mine says clutch E. Thanks.

[project335ibimmer]

am i looking at a solenoid issue? btw im at 79k mileage and fluids and filter was changed at 77k, gear sign with “!” pops up when at 240F temps and now im in limp mode. codes are 2AD0 and 4F53 torque converter clutch error.

here’s my adaption values…