[chilledn52]

Proud to show off the D-Style Ram air intake I made for the US airbox. It’s a 70mm adapter to attach a 3” inch hose from the bumper. I’ve made a velocity pipe for the bumper as well as your cold air catch. Sold as a kit if you wanted with both.

[chilledn52]

PrintablesAuto.ca

[The Nightman]

Very cool. Any plans to make one for the eurobox?

[chilledn52]

Originally Posted by The Nightman

Very cool. Any plans to make one for the eurobox?

No plans at the moment. If I get my hands on a eurobox, I’ll make one. Would be a fun project!

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by chilledn52

No plans at the moment. If I get my hands on a eurobox, I’ll make one. Would be a fun project!

I used the dinan one for my Eurobox - I had to cut the hole and install it from the inside.

Have you done any testing with the modification?

[chilledn52]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

I used the dinan one for my Eurobox - I had to cut the hole and install it from the inside.

Have you done any testing with the modification?

Here’s a photo of it installed on mine, fits and works. Slightly touching the wheel arch

[neilvan]

Very nice! Dinan has sold out of these elbows so its a good upgrade.

I've done 2 and they both touch the liner a bit so thats normal; The E90 LCI car it touches the headlight connector a bit too. Yours looks like it has clearance?

[chilledn52]

Very good to know the dinan ones also touch the wheel liner slightly, thank you!

I am pre-lci with some aftermarket headlights so not sure how tight the fitment might be, but should have the clearance for the headlight assemblies

[ZimZimmmmer]

Originally Posted by chilledn52

Here’s a photo of it installed on mine, fits and works. Slightly touching the wheel arch

Looks good. I intended to do my own version of the Dinan attachment by making a hole with a hole saw to the side of my EuroBox filter then sealing it with a rubber outer grommet and then feeding a silicone pipe flush through the inner part of that grommet and then run the pipework to my bumper. All gaps with be sealed with gasket sealant to avoid any potential air leaks.

Haven't got around to doing it yet as the parts are on order but it will be very soon.

I see you have changed out your drivetrain to a 3.91 ratio which is what I am heading for after I install my MILVS. How's is the torque levels with this diff swap? Was it worth it? Any regrets? Any tips you know now that you would recommend to someone starting that journey?

Thanks

2007 LCI 330i N52 Auto
Purpose of my project car: A little bit faster to give me a kick when daily driving but comfortable whilst doing so.
Current Mods: B4 Coilovers | K&N Filter | EuroBox
Planned Mods: Air scoops | Exhaust headers | xHP Remap | Change Diff to a 3.91 ratio | 10-20mm Wheel Spacers | MILVS | Silicone Intake Boot

[chilledn52]

I had the best reaction to after the differential swap, felt amazing. Smiles all around. Pickup and go is really good.


Slightly higher rpm but doesn’t matter to me much, slightly more drone with trumpets when running them.
I legit found out 2 days ago my diff axle seals are leaking after replacing clutch and flywheel so please replace those gaskets and flange gasket when you are in there.
If you’re rwd and getting 3.91 the flange will have to be swapped.

MILVs also has a really good pickup in torque and you will enjoy when your tune gets accommodated for it.

[ZimZimmmmer]

Originally Posted by chilledn52

I had the best reaction to after the differential swap, felt amazing. Smiles all around. Pickup and go is really good.


Slightly higher rpm but doesn’t matter to me much, slightly more drone with trumpets when running them.
I legit found out 2 days ago my diff axle seals are leaking after replacing clutch and flywheel so please replace those gaskets and flange gasket when you are in there.
If you’re rwd and getting 3.91 the flange will have to be swapped.

MILVs also has a really good pickup in torque and you will enjoy when your tune gets accommodated for it.

Ah thanks for the tips! I'll pick up those two gaskets just in case though my N52 is an Auto so the problems caused by the clutch and flywheel will hopefully be an isolated one.

Interestingly I am running a 3.64 ratio and ideally think 3.73 is better for me over the 3.91 but I can't actually decide. Glad you made the right decision!

In fact, can you or anyone help me a little further... how did you what ratio to pick? Is there a website that allows me to see all of my cars diff ratio options? (I've tried realoem and it only really give you like for like... Currently the part number for my N52 is 33107566175)

Thanks

[chilledn52]

Originally Posted by ZimZimmmmer

Interestingly I am running a 3.64 ratio and ideally think 3.73 is better for me over the 3.91 but I can't actually decide. Glad you made the right decision!

In fact, can you or anyone help me a little further... how did you what ratio to pick? Is there a website that allows me to see all of my cars diff ratio options? (I've tried realoem and it only really give you like for like... Currently the part number for my N52 is 33107566175)

Thanks

With me being Xdrive I can only go from 3.38 to 3.91 as I need matching diffs.
This thread helped me out lots!
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1160923

[ZimZimmmmer]

Originally Posted by chilledn52

With me being Xdrive I can only go from 3.38 to 3.91 as I need matching diffs.
This thread helped me out lots!
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1160923

Thanks for sending that thread though. Had a quick read through and turns out the diff ratios are slightly calculated/measured differently in Europe. So back to the drawing board for me until I find some more adequate information.

Can't wait to get it done though...

[ZimZimmmmer]

Originally Posted by chilledn52

Here’s a photo of it installed on mine, fits and works. Slightly touching the wheel arch

In relation to your Dinan filter attachment, would/could you say this surplus of air is actually making a difference as per combustion?

I have read in another thread they said no matter how much air you try to introduce, the computer will determine what happens next. For example, too much air, the computer will tell your fuel injectors to deliver less.

What are your thoughts on that in relation to your dinan intake?

[chilledn52]

Originally Posted by ZimZimmmmer

In relation to your Dinan filter attachment, would/could you say this surplus of air is actually making a difference as per combustion?

I have read in another thread they said no matter how much air you try to introduce, the computer will determine what happens next. For example, too much air, the computer will tell your fuel injectors to deliver less.

What are your thoughts on that in relation to your dinan intake?

Car has adaptations, if more air is introduced it will add more fuel. Having more positive pressure in the airbox allows for more power and better throttle response. If we also have the 3 inch hose catching air at driving speeds, it’s shoving all that into airbox so it’s ready to be used

[ZimZimmmmer]

Originally Posted by chilledn52

Car has adaptations, if more air is introduced it will add more fuel. Having more positive pressure in the airbox allows for more power and better throttle response. If we also have the 3 inch hose catching air at driving speeds, it’s shoving all that into airbox so it’s ready to be used

Thanks for clearing that up.

I plan to use the venturi effect for my version of the Dinan mod; two large openings (3") for the beginning and end pipes and the middle pipe I will drop the diameter to 2".

On the subject of positive pressure though, have you ever thought that introducing a secondary access point - Dinan mod to the airbox that in actual fact, doesnt give as much air as we think in fact, might completely work against the air intake progress. How so?

Well... Air is at its highest pressure the closest it is to the ground. The air collected from the lower part of the bumper (fog light area) will actually be higher pressured air in comparison to the air coming in (also high pressure but not as high) due to the location of the factory air inlet behind the kidney grill. Therefore, because of positive pressure, the higher pressure will be forcing its way out via the factory inlet or maybe at least not allowing the factory inlet to perform as well.

Food for thought...

Happy modding,
---------------------------------------------------------------------
2007 LCI 330i N52 Auto
Purpose of my project car: A little bit faster to give me a kick when daily driving but comfortable whilst doing so.
Current Mods: B4 Coilovers | K&N Filter | EuroBox
Planned Mods: Air scoops | Silicone Intake | Exhaust Catted headers | xHP or Bimmerworks Remap | Change diff to a 3.73/3.91 ratio | 10-20mm Wheel Spacers | MILVS | LSD |

[chilledn52]

Originally Posted by ZimZimmmmer

Thanks for clearing that up.

I plan to use the venturi effect for my version of the Dinan mod; two large openings (3") for the beginning and end pipes and the middle pipe I will drop the diameter to 2".

Cool, love to see that

Originally Posted by ZimZimmmmer

On the subject of positive pressure though, have you ever thought that introducing a secondary access point

Grill air scoops plus dinan is already supplementing more, a third location might be overkill with little gain.

- Dinan mod to the airbox that in actual fact, doesnt give as much air as we think in fact, might completely work against the air intake progress. How so?

High pressure air from lower bumper ramming into the airbox with 40mph winds, it should be supplementing well. Maybe MY bolt and nut design to watch might cause some turbulence.
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1186613

Originally Posted by ZimZimmmmer

Well... Air is at its highest pressure the closest it is to the ground. The air collected from the lower part of the bumper (fog light area) will actually be higher pressured air in comparison to the air coming in (also high pressure but not as high) due to the location of the factory air inlet behind the kidney grill. Therefore, because of positive pressure, the higher pressure will be forcing its way out via the factory inlet or maybe at least not allowing the factory inlet to perform as well.

At low enough speed and rpm, maybe. But at the higher speeds. The front of your bumper will have 40mph (example) winds shoving itself into the airbox, high pressure. while the intake manifold is your low pressure since it’s combusting the air. Air scoops for the grille is also another ram supplement that can help that thought

Originally Posted by ZimZimmmmer

Food for thought...

Happy modding,

You too!

[tylerhart_21]

Would using a plastic JB weld, stick the two parts together? If so you could eliminate ever using screws.

Also, a different idea could be making the intake like the grill flaps on the new cars. The hole is open when needed and closed when not.

[chilledn52]

Plastic weld with JB yes, another way of binding it to the box.
I was thinking maybe rtv by itself if it cured 100% but might vibrate it off with due times plastic weld will for sure hold (if scuffing the bonding surfaces)

Don’t know how I could design a grille flap design for this but interesting idea