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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > Can I touch paint this?



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      04-04-2006, 12:44 PM   #1
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Can I touch paint this?

Finally get hit by the rock on a highway. :mad:

The chip is about 2x2 mm and goes to bare metal. Is this still something that can be just touch painted?
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      04-04-2006, 12:53 PM   #2
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you can give it a try, I would wash the car first to get rid of any dirt/particles that might've been lodged into the nick. Afterwards, put masking tape around the nick, then touch-paint it.
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      04-04-2006, 01:02 PM   #3
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That can be fixed. Read the article below which details how to fix small scratches and chips. I've already fixed a few and it's real hard to see where the repair is.


http://store.yahoo.com/autopia/inf-paint-polish-clinic.html


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      04-04-2006, 01:24 PM   #4
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Thanks guys! I will give it a try.
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      10-02-2006, 11:52 AM   #5
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YES! ... you can make a good repair on that chip. I had one slightly larger on my 330i and it came out perfect. The skill is not difficult to learn but does require some patience.

* Grab your paint code number and go to www.paintscratch.com. Get the paint pen with your color of silver and a pen of clear.

* Get a pint of denatured alcohol from Home Depot or local hardware.

* Get a Meguiar's 1500 or 2000 grit Unigrit Sanding Block or 2000 grit wet/dry paper and a 1" by 2" school erasure.

Follow these instructions:

1. Clean the area well with alcohol... use it dry, not wet. It will slightly dull the clear.

2. Use the touch-up pen on paper first to get it flowing. Apply two "dry" coats to the chip. DO NOT apply it wet because the metal flake will settle and then it won't match. Allow 15 minutes between coats, then allow an hour dry time before step 3.

3. Wet sand the chip area lightly to level and rough up the clear. Dry. Be sure to use a lint-free towel that has not been contaminated by wax/oil.

4. Apply 3-4 light coats of clear. Allow 20-30 minutes between coats. You should have a nice clear build that is higher that the original paint surface. Allow the repair to dry over night.

5. Wet sand the repair area to level the "blob". No not sand more than necessary.

6. Use a fine-cut compound to remove the sanding marks. This can be done by hand, but a polisher will be faster.

7. Use a swirl-remover polish to remove any remaining hazing and restore full gloss.

Repair finished!

If you need further assistance, don't hesitate to contact me.

~ David
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      10-02-2006, 06:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autopia
YES! ... you can make a good repair on that chip. I had one slightly larger on my 330i and it came out perfect. The skill is not difficult to learn but does require some patience.

* Grab your paint code number and go to www.paintscratch.com. Get the paint pen with your color of silver and a pen of clear.

* Get a pint of denatured alcohol from Home Depot or local hardware.

* Get a Meguiar's 1500 or 2000 grit Unigrit Sanding Block or 2000 grit wet/dry paper and a 1" by 2" school erasure.

Follow these instructions:

1. Clean the area well with alcohol... use it dry, not wet. It will slightly dull the clear.

2. Use the touch-up pen on paper first to get it flowing. Apply two "dry" coats to the chip. DO NOT apply it wet because the metal flake will settle and then it won't match. Allow 15 minutes between coats, then allow an hour dry time before step 3.

3. Wet sand the chip area lightly to level and rough up the clear. Dry. Be sure to use a lint-free towel that has not been contaminated by wax/oil.

4. Apply 3-4 light coats of clear. Allow 20-30 minutes between coats. You should have a nice clear build that is higher that the original paint surface. Allow the repair to dry over night.

5. Wet sand the repair area to level the "blob". No not sand more than necessary.

6. Use a fine-cut compound to remove the sanding marks. This can be done by hand, but a polisher will be faster.

7. Use a swirl-remover polish to remove any remaining hazing and restore full gloss.

Repair finished!

If you need further assistance, don't hesitate to contact me.

~ David
David,

Welcome aboard! Love your website (especially the how-to sections and your "book") and the products you sell.

Looking forward to further advice/insights.

Brian
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      10-02-2006, 09:51 PM   #7
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Thanks, Brian!

I'm available as a resource to the community. I've had more than my fair share of Bimmers (motorcycles and cars), so I know the finishes very well.

db

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      10-03-2006, 08:53 AM   #8
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Follow the steps above and above all, afford yourself time to let the paint dry and BE PATIENT !!!!!!
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      10-03-2006, 12:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autopia
Thanks, Brian!

I'm available as a resource to the community. I've had more than my fair share of Bimmers (motorcycles and cars), so I know the finishes very well.

db

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      10-03-2006, 07:55 PM   #10
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In the past I've been a little sloppy with the paint "blob" height and perimeter of touch up paint. Can I use something less than 1000 grit if I safely tape off the area to isolate the high spots and work it down faster? I've done a few touch ups in the past and seem to work a loooong time with 1500. I always finish with 2000 to get the scratches fine enough to then machine buff (spot buff). I've read elsewhere of using 600 or 800 grit but is that too rough?
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      10-03-2006, 08:55 PM   #11
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You can, but be careful not to remove too much clear; you will likely have to follow up with 2k girt as mentioned, as remove 6-800 grit marks without a rotary is tough.
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      10-04-2006, 07:36 PM   #12
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Thanks Picus.
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