[cstmx_ryder]

I have a 6AT and I'm trying to dyno my car but can't seem to hold the car in gear to get a good graph.....

Any pointers?

Everytime it gets close to redline, it pops back down to M2......

Am I suppose to use the auto-mode or DS mode, and not the manual mode?

Please help!!

Thanks,

[Ramos]

Why are you getting close to redline? Max Hp on the N54 is around 5800 RPM..
I have an MT, so I can't answer the auto vs. manual question

[cstmx_ryder]

Should I just be in the 4th gear (M4) and let off around 6000 rpms?

I've never dyno'd my car before, and everyone here is used to MT cars........

[jpsimon]

Originally Posted by Ramos

Why are you getting close to redline? Max Hp on the N54 is around 5800 RPM..
I have an MT, so I can't answer the auto vs. manual question

say what? you want to see the whole powerband. we're talking about a dyno run here

[Ramos]

Originally Posted by jpsimon

say what? you want to see the whole powerband. we're talking about a dyno run here

No, no I am just saying no need to rev all the way to redline in every gear

[cstmx_ryder]

I have tried searching, but all the dynos, or most of them are on MT cars......

I don't know, I think I'll just try it in DS mode and Manual mode again.....

When you dyno, do you just punch it in 3rd gear or do you gradually push the throttle so the rpm doesn't jump like crazy?

[Ramos]

Correct me if i am wrong, but you should dyno in 4th not 3rd gear

[dukevi]

I think you gently push the throttle until it gets up to where you want to change... (I'm just taking a guess here) you should look up youtube and listen to the exhaust system when people dyno their cars

[jpsimon]

It doesn't matter on this car. We did a test and there was no difference between 3rd and 4th gear dyno back to back

Originally Posted by Ramos

Correct me if i am wrong, but you should dyno in 4th not 3rd gear

[turb0]

Quote from the other site:


Hey guys,

I figured it would be a good idea to post up a dyno DIY. This is for purposes of measuring the performance of modifications, not for doing actual tuning.

Ahead of time:

1) The brand of dyno matters. They all read (and work) differently so if you want to compare numbers with others find an actual Dynojet dyno.

2) If possible do a baseline dyno before your modifications so you can measure the power increase. For those of you using an off brand dyno, failure to perform this step will result in numbers that are impossible to analyze. If you can't do a before dyno and you're not using a Dynojet, don't waste your money or time.

3) Make sure the car is fully adapted to your modifications before you go. If you just added race gas, floor the car a few times so it can adapt to the higher octane.

4) Bring along a USB flash drive to take home your runs.

5) The better the fans, the higher the dyno numbers. Make sure the dyno shop you use has adequate fans and ventilation.

6) The N54 always dynos better in colder weather, despite correction factors. Take this in to consideration when picking a day to dyno and when comparing numbers with others. Corrected runs in 50 degree temps will generally result in higher numbers than those in 100 degree temps, all else being equal. So if you want to improve your chances for a dyno record, go on a cold day. Just be prepared for skeptics to complain about your optimal weather.

7) Correction factors do not properly take in to account altitude. If you live in a high altitude area, do not try to compare your corrected numbers to others at sea level. Try to find a dyno close to sea level.


Once you arrive:

1) To connect the RPM pickup use an allen wrench to loosen and lift the plastic engine cover. The tach pickup connects to the wire bundle going to a coil pack. If the dyno operator can't get a signal, just move to another bundle under there until you find one that works.

2) Measure air/fuel ratios from the right tailpipe. This avoids confusion if your factory exhaust flapper is not disabled. As a side note, ignore the dyno operator when he freaks out about how lean your air/fuel ratios are. The N54 is a direct injection motor and typically runs 14.5:1 air/fuel ratios in the midrange stock. Also ignore the power/torque dip around 4000rpm, it is a cam timing event.

3) Disable the traction control system.

3a) For manual transmissions: Do all runs in 4th gear from 2000rpm to 7000rpm.

3b) For automatic transmissions: This is very confusing and likely your dyno operator will not be smart enough to do this, so don’t be afraid to operate the car on the dyno yourself.

Shift the car in to 4th gear in sport mode, bring the RPMs up to around 1800-2200, and then floor the car to right before the kick down switch. If you floor it all the way, the car will downshift and screw up your run. If this happens abort the run and try again. The kick down is a small button at the end of the gas pedal travel and you can practice with the car off, or on the way to the dynoshop.

4) When analyzing your runs, move the correction factor to STD, and the smoothing to 5. The early 335i tuning gods decided this was the appropriate factor for the N54 so using the more appropriate SAE factor will likely result in your disappointment.

5) Copy your .DRF run files to your USB drive to take home. You can download Dynojet winpep software online free of change to create graphs, combine runs on to one chart, change correction algorithms, and analyze your runs.

[cstmx_ryder]

Awesome!! Finally, someone came through!! Thanks.....

One question tho, for AT cars, do you mean to put it in Manual mode to shift to 4th then floor it?

Or just put it in DS mode and count the number of upshifts so you'll know when you're in 4th?

TIA

Originally Posted by turb0

Quote from the other site:


Hey guys,

I figured it would be a good idea to post up a dyno DIY. This is for purposes of measuring the performance of modifications, not for doing actual tuning.

Ahead of time:

1) The brand of dyno matters. They all read (and work) differently so if you want to compare numbers with others find an actual Dynojet dyno.

2) If possible do a baseline dyno before your modifications so you can measure the power increase. For those of you using an off brand dyno, failure to perform this step will result in numbers that are impossible to analyze. If you can't do a before dyno and you're not using a Dynojet, don't waste your money or time.

3) Make sure the car is fully adapted to your modifications before you go. If you just added race gas, floor the car a few times so it can adapt to the higher octane.

4) Bring along a USB flash drive to take home your runs.

5) The better the fans, the higher the dyno numbers. Make sure the dyno shop you use has adequate fans and ventilation.

6) The N54 always dynos better in colder weather, despite correction factors. Take this in to consideration when picking a day to dyno and when comparing numbers with others. Corrected runs in 50 degree temps will generally result in higher numbers than those in 100 degree temps, all else being equal. So if you want to improve your chances for a dyno record, go on a cold day. Just be prepared for skeptics to complain about your optimal weather.

7) Correction factors do not properly take in to account altitude. If you live in a high altitude area, do not try to compare your corrected numbers to others at sea level. Try to find a dyno close to sea level.


Once you arrive:

1) To connect the RPM pickup use an allen wrench to loosen and lift the plastic engine cover. The tach pickup connects to the wire bundle going to a coil pack. If the dyno operator can't get a signal, just move to another bundle under there until you find one that works.

2) Measure air/fuel ratios from the right tailpipe. This avoids confusion if your factory exhaust flapper is not disabled. As a side note, ignore the dyno operator when he freaks out about how lean your air/fuel ratios are. The N54 is a direct injection motor and typically runs 14.5:1 air/fuel ratios in the midrange stock. Also ignore the power/torque dip around 4000rpm, it is a cam timing event.

3) Disable the traction control system.

3a) For manual transmissions: Do all runs in 4th gear from 2000rpm to 7000rpm.

3b) For automatic transmissions: This is very confusing and likely your dyno operator will not be smart enough to do this, so don’t be afraid to operate the car on the dyno yourself.

Shift the car in to 4th gear in sport mode, bring the RPMs up to around 1800-2200, and then floor the car to right before the kick down switch. If you floor it all the way, the car will downshift and screw up your run. If this happens abort the run and try again. The kick down is a small button at the end of the gas pedal travel and you can practice with the car off, or on the way to the dynoshop.

4) When analyzing your runs, move the correction factor to STD, and the smoothing to 5. The early 335i tuning gods decided this was the appropriate factor for the N54 so using the more appropriate SAE factor will likely result in your disappointment.

5) Copy your .DRF run files to your USB drive to take home. You can download Dynojet winpep software online free of change to create graphs, combine runs on to one chart, change correction algorithms, and analyze your runs.

[marty_mcfly]

make sure you push the pedal all the way down but dont make it click. otherwise it'll downshift.

manual mode, shift normally to 3rd gear then slowly push the pedal all the way down but dont hit that little button. (sorry dont know what its called)

[cstmx_ryder]

Thanks!! I'll try that

[PaulBailey@ltbmw]

good info

[cstmx_ryder]

Also, is it normal to have your ABS light come on when on the dyno?

And the seatbelt warning light came on too!! I guess that's because we're moving faster than the governed speed for putting on seatbelt?

I've turned traction control all the way off as well.

Please chime in..........

[jpsimon]

yes random errors will come on like the ones you mentioned

[cstmx_ryder]

thanks!!

[vegasspeed]

The ABS Light is weird but very common with our cars for this.