Planned Audio Upgrade for my 2007 328xiT

VP Electricity · 01-26-2008, 09:11 PM

Hi, all. I just picked up a 2007 328 xiT non-Logic 7.

Before I bought this car, I helped do audio upgrades for others in E90, E60, and E83 vehicles with good results. (I'm in the audio industry.)

I plan on upgrading my car with the following objectives:

- OEM sources

- all speakers behind OEM grilles

- Sub looks OEM

- No visible mods

- System targeted at SQ - imaging, staging, and dynamics are more important than heavy bass or rear speakers.

- Minimal impact on storage in the Touring cargo area.

I plan on doing this install in stages over the next few months. Here is my current system on paper:

Front doors - Morel Hybrid Ovation 4 components. The 100mm midwoofer has a 2" voice coil and still fits in the door. The 28mm tweeter plays down to 1800 and is sweet and smooth - and snaps into the OEM tweeter clips! The biggest problem I foresee is getting the wires out of the door so I can bi-amp the mid and tweet - more on this in a moment. Anyone who wants to use these should be aware that the passives are huge and the PCBs are glued into their cast-metal housings. The Dotech 4 passive xovers are MUCH smaller and easier to fit behind the door panel. (BTW, I'm not using Focal, but I'm glad YOU like them : )

Rear doors - I actually hate rear speakers - if I do these I will use Morel Integra Ovation 4 point source speakers. But I will probably leave them out.

Underseat woofers - Morel ADMW 6 165mm woofers. These have a stamped frame and I think they will fit without any mods to the BMW enclosures. The pics I've seen of using cast-frame Morel in these enclosures require a little mod, but I think the thinner stamped-frame design of the ADMW 6 might make the difference - we will see. These will only be playing down to 50 hz as midbass.

Subwoofer - I'm looking at a 10" woofer in the passenger rear corner where the net/pocket is. My golf bag doesn't fit across the cargo area laterally anyway, so I'm going to make a fiberglass enclosure that continues the line of the wheel well that looks stock. I'm undecided on the driver itself. I MIGHT do this without the sub and see how it sounds for a while... but I think I know already - I don't think ANY speaker will play bass in those underseat enclosures we have. I have liked the DLS MW110 but I guess it's been replaced? I've tried some of the newer flat woofers and been underwhelmed. I prefer a 10 to a 12 due to height limitations in the box design. I may try the new PPI flat-piston woofer. Suggestions are welcome.

Amps: I have an audison LRx 4.5 4-channel and an audison LRx 4.1k that are great-sounding amps. I have to figure out if they will both fit in the driver's side panel. I am looking at running the larger set of channels of the 4.1 to the sub and the smaller 75x2 set to the underseat woofers, and then the symmetrical 75x4 channels of the 4.5 to the front-door mids and tweets.

OEM interface: Having tested the E90 non-Logic 7 before, I know that I need to re-eq the response, but I can use the BMW crossover point without summing the sub and front channels back together. So I plan to use a Zapco DSP6 processor for its 10-band parametric EQ per channel and DSP crossover slopes. I also plan to use the time correction function on the mids and tweets. I've done this in an E83 and an E90 with very good results.

So I will have Front Highpass, Front mid Bandpass, both driven off of the front outputs of the OEM amp, whose EQ processing will be reversed by the Zapco DSP6. I will have Underseat midbass bandpass and Subwoofer lowpass both driven by the OEM amp's subwoofer output, and then split the frequencies between the two. (I know the DSP6 has only 6 channels... I may need to run the midbass in mono, not my favorite idea... still thinking this through.)

Outstanding questions:

- Will these amps all fit?

Will I need to use another route for OEM integration to handle my # of channels? Can I make all this fit? I have to pull the floor out and see if there is room between the wheels like there is on the E83...

- What sub will I land on?

- How bad is new speaker wire into an E90 front door? (My guess - pretty bad).

Since I am old and out of shape now, I will probably be asking for help from some friends at different times. I plan on documenting with photos and test screenshots and all the rest, so hopefully this info is useful for others.

More news as it appears!

aRangel · 01-28-2008, 01:41 AM

Good luck

SantaClawz · 01-28-2008, 02:13 AM

holy god, you are taking this custom sound to an entirely new level. LOL. shit, i wanted to do an audison amp, with hertz in the front. i'm only leasing, so didn't want to dump more money into messing with it.

VP Electricity · 01-28-2008, 11:04 AM

I did an E60 with the hertz 4" HSK set in the front and a 10 in the trunk. Bolted the amp under the deck lid.SOunded MUCH better. Guy had an 04 w/Logic 7 and hated it, got his 07 w/o Logic 7 and had us upgrade it. Sounded great, leased car, removable without visible mods.

SantaClawz · 01-28-2008, 01:43 PM

JEEZ VP! You make me wanna get that Hertz man!!! I was about to get that same exact setup!

SantaClawz · 01-28-2008, 01:45 PM

its either Quads Exhaust or this Hertz combo. What kind of amp did you use?

I'm gonna use audison, but they are going to hide it, and just display the JL 500/1 in the back.

SantaClawz · 01-28-2008, 01:49 PM

oh one last thing, next time for my 2010 M3 (when lease is up), and i am 100% not getting Logic 7. It's terrible and distorts frequently and randomly.

VP Electricity · 01-28-2008, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SantaClawz

JEEZ VP! You make me wanna get that Hertz man!!! I was about to get that same exact setup!

Something to know... the E90 system audio output is processed very differently than the E60. You definitely need a way to reverse this processing for the system to sound good, regardless of what gear you use.

SantaClawz · 01-28-2008, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

Something to know... the E90 system audio output is processed very differently than the E60. You definitely need a way to reverse this processing for the system to sound good, regardless of what gear you use.

ic. thanks for the expert info. im going to get quads for now from autotalent. I'll do the audio upgrade later. its not THAT bad, but at times, i wish it was better than it is.

VP Electricity · 01-28-2008, 07:27 PM

I have been thinking about doing some speaker-only test fitting to see how it sounds. Maybe I will do a test.

sageashton · 06-05-2008, 10:49 PM

Curious how this coming along since it has been several months... any news?

VP Electricity · 06-05-2008, 11:27 PM

I am in the middle of moving from Socal back to Portland, and so I have put it off a bit. I have a buddy in Portland that I'd like to have help me with it, who is a much neater wiring guy and a much better fab guy than I am (in the words of Ratbert, "I'm more of an idea rat" ).

But July and August will see some action

sageashton · 06-05-2008, 11:34 PM

Cool. I am really curious how going active is going to work out. It's one thing that I have been toying with, but I don't want to add a second amp just to try it out.

VP Electricity · 06-06-2008, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sageashton

Cool. I am really curious how going active is going to work out. It's one thing that I have been toying with, but I don't want to add a second amp just to try it out.

Here are my questions:

1) How to Dotechs sound with an OEM amp?

2) If I run underseat midbass and rear subbass, how do I do it? Do I abandon active up front? Or do I run the F midbass and the R subbass off of the same outputs of my processor - thus losing any ability to time correct for the 6 feet of searation?

3) what is the bigger evil - running midbass in mono (especially midbass under my a$$) or no time correction?

4) No... never mind... R speaker ARE a commie plot

sageashton · 06-06-2008, 01:11 AM

My honest thoughts:

1. I would never know unless I hooked up the OEM amp back up. However, the OEM amp to Infinity's was a noticable improvement, so perhaps (I think it's a long shot) it may sound good. Personally, and I don't say this much, I think the biggest improvement in my system was adding an amp, not the speaker improvement, although with the dotech's I think that may change.

2. In your proposed set up you are going to need a minimum 3 way crossover, right? One for the Mid bass, one for the mid and one for the tweet. But you still need to cut out the frequencies below 50 hz for the rear sub, so I guess that would be a 4 stage crossover? With the audiocontrol unit I have, I could just use the PFM to filter below 50hz (for the R sub), then the low pass for the mid bass to mid and the high pass for mid to tweet. This would be with my DQX, but your right you would not be able to tune it below 50 hz. Hmmmm... what about if you ran the low pass, split it with a 'y' then put some tunable passive to cut off below 50hz on the midbass channel, then ran the other split to your r sub? Just an idea, your the guru not I. But if you ran it all channelled (6 in the front and one mono for the back you) you would not lose time correction (well, you would for the sub, but not the front). On the sub, I'm stumped. Then again, I am happy with the subs under the seat.

3. I am already going to hell.

I run my underseat subs in mono and cross them over between 125 and 150 hz. I'll admit that it IS noticeable, but not enough for me to care.

4. I agree. I leave mine off until someone sits in back and then I will put them on, but only barely. That's also another reason I got the dqx as opposed the dql-8 or dqxs. That's also why I am only getting one set of dotechs

Let me know what you figure out. I have been tossing active around for awhile now, but for me it is easier because I will never put a sub in the trunk (need all the space I can get back there).

Hey, slightly off topic but with your phonic rta (when you did that non invasive install with the zapco) what was the Q (width) on the 1khz peak? And was it really a +9db peak or did I misunderstand that?

VP Electricity · 06-06-2008, 01:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sageashton

My honest thoughts:

1. I would never know unless I hooked up the OEM amp back up. However, the OEM amp to Infinity's was a noticable improvement, so perhaps (I think it's a long shot) it may sound good. Personally, and I don't say this much, I think the biggest improvement in my system was adding an amp, not the speaker improvement, although with the dotech's I think that may change.

2. In your proposed set up you are going to need a minimum 3 way crossover, right? One for the Mid bass, one for the mid and one for the tweet. But you still need to cut out the frequencies below 50 hz for the rear sub, so I guess that would be a 4 stage crossover? With the audiocontrol unit I have, I could just use the PFM to filter below 50hz (for the R sub), then the low pass for the mid bass to mid and the high pass for mid to tweet. This would be with my DQX, but your right you would not be able to tune it below 50 hz. Hmmmm... what about if you ran the low pass, split it with a 'y' then put some tunable passive to cut off below 50hz on the midbass channel, then ran the other split to your r sub? Just an idea, your the guru not I. But if you ran it all channelled (6 in the front and one mono for the back you) you would not lose time correction (well, you would for the sub, but not the front). On the sub, I'm stumped. Then again, I am happy with the subs under the seat.

3. I am already going to hell.

I run my underseat subs in mono and cross them over between 125 and 150 hz. I'll admit that it IS noticeable, but not enough for me to care.

4. I agree. I leave mine off until someone sits in back and then I will put them on, but only barely. That's also another reason I got the dqx as opposed the dql-8 or dqxs. That's also why I am only getting one set of dotechs

Let me know what you figure out. I have been tossing active around for awhile now, but for me it is easier because I will never put a sub in the trunk (need all the space I can get back there).

Hey, slightly off topic but with your phonic rta (when you did that non invasive install with the zapco) what was the Q on the 1khz peak? And was it really a +9db peak or did I misunderstand that?

Knowing the Q precisely would involve me doing math... but I would say it was close to .707

Not too narrow, not too wide.

sageashton · 06-06-2008, 01:26 AM

Now I get to show how truly ignorant I am? What does .707 translate to in octaves? You have got to be chuckling right now. LOL. And was the peak really +9 db?

VP Electricity · 06-06-2008, 01:37 AM

.707 is a Q of roughly"normal" aspect ratio.

Here are my measurements of the electrical output of the amp of a non-Logic-7 system with pink noise.

installmd · 06-06-2008, 10:32 PM

VP,

when i did Morel Elate 4 and tweets in Qlogics E92, front doors (all active) I was able to get a 16ga wire through the door boot without too much trouble. I think the first one took me maybe a half hour to figure out, but the second one was maybe 15 minutes to do. As far as figuring out your active issue, why not run your mid bass/sub frequencies into your 4.1K, and use the internal crossovers available to the LRx's to split the frequencies for the mid bass and sub channels. Admittedly, it has been a while since I used the Audison amps, but I remember there crossovers on the LRx series being pretty good.
I used something like this for Qlogics using a mix of an Alpine PXA-H700 crossover/EQ and internal amplifier crossovers to get the full active 10 channel system we ran.
Just an idea, but it might work for you.

installmd

VP Electricity · 06-06-2008, 11:15 PM

That's not a terrible idea, in that the path length difference between the E90 F tweeter and F mid is just about identical if memory serves, so using the DSP6 as the crossover from the mid to the tweet doesn't have the huge benefit of the time correction that it would have in, say, an E46 coupe.

But with the location I think I'm stashing the amps, I would have a terrible time tweaking the xover point and the gains - the gains being the one I'm worried about the most. The Morels, like most passive xovers, have series resistance with the tweeter regardless of which output tap you use, which means that the tweeter is more efficient than the mid, and that the signal level must be lower for the output levels to match.

But it is preferable to running the midbass in mono to me

So I might do it.

I think the small 4-channel would fit in the empty tray forward of the well and just aft of the R seat. I've used that tray in other E90 but I haven't verified that it's empty in my car yet.

VP Electricity · 06-06-2008, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by installmd

VP,

... I was able to get a 16ga wire through the door boot without too much trouble. I think the first one took me maybe a half hour to figure out, but the second one was maybe 15 minutes to do.

installmd

I have a roll of Pear Cable Comice speaker wire in my garage, and when I go into my garage, it laughs at me and calls me a wussy... not sure I can resist trying to pull a cable the diameter of my little finger...

VP Electricity · 04-11-2009, 04:12 PM

OK, this project has taken forever to start. Since I posted this, we have moved, and I just spent 9 months commuting by air for my old job.

Since I am now with lots of time on my hands, I have picked up the project.

One problem is that the Audison amps - nice as they are - are the wrong shape and size for a stealth install in the E91. I would need to build a false floor and lose a couple of inches, and I am not committed to do this.
So I have been thinking about what to use that can fit. I was hoping to use the between-the-wheels cubby in the floor, but the TPMS module now goes there. I have to use the well. If it were an E90, I would use the underside of the rear deck.

Zapco amps are out for the same reason - and Arc, and Genesis, and DLS, etc. All long, narrow amps are out if I want to use the well.

PDX amps and JL HD amps would fit from a size and shape point of view - but they are both Class D, and I am not using Class D amps in my car - especially for full-range application. RF, Kicker, etc., are just out.

So here's what I think: Arc Audio Minis. I can do two or three in the well, PLUS the Zapco DSP processor, and make it all serviceable and easy to get to.

If it turns out I don't like the sound, I can switch to the Tru Technology S45s.

Which would run up the cost.

So I probably need to sell my Audison 4-channels. I will run a post on that over in the FS section.

Anyone use the Arc Audio Minis?

01-26-2008, 09:11 PM	#1
VP Electricity Brigadier General 301 Rep 3,201 Posts Drives: F34 xDrive Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: portland oregon iTrader: (3)	Planned Audio Upgrade for my 2007 328xiT Hi, all. I just picked up a 2007 328 xiT non-Logic 7. Before I bought this car, I helped do audio upgrades for others in E90, E60, and E83 vehicles with good results. (I'm in the audio industry.) I plan on upgrading my car with the following objectives: - OEM sources - all speakers behind OEM grilles - Sub looks OEM - No visible mods - System targeted at SQ - imaging, staging, and dynamics are more important than heavy bass or rear speakers. - Minimal impact on storage in the Touring cargo area. I plan on doing this install in stages over the next few months. Here is my current system on paper: Front doors - Morel Hybrid Ovation 4 components. The 100mm midwoofer has a 2" voice coil and still fits in the door. The 28mm tweeter plays down to 1800 and is sweet and smooth - and snaps into the OEM tweeter clips! The biggest problem I foresee is getting the wires out of the door so I can bi-amp the mid and tweet - more on this in a moment. Anyone who wants to use these should be aware that the passives are huge and the PCBs are glued into their cast-metal housings. The Dotech 4 passive xovers are MUCH smaller and easier to fit behind the door panel. (BTW, I'm not using Focal, but I'm glad YOU like them : ) Rear doors - I actually hate rear speakers - if I do these I will use Morel Integra Ovation 4 point source speakers. But I will probably leave them out. Underseat woofers - Morel ADMW 6 165mm woofers. These have a stamped frame and I think they will fit without any mods to the BMW enclosures. The pics I've seen of using cast-frame Morel in these enclosures require a little mod, but I think the thinner stamped-frame design of the ADMW 6 might make the difference - we will see. These will only be playing down to 50 hz as midbass. Subwoofer - I'm looking at a 10" woofer in the passenger rear corner where the net/pocket is. My golf bag doesn't fit across the cargo area laterally anyway, so I'm going to make a fiberglass enclosure that continues the line of the wheel well that looks stock. I'm undecided on the driver itself. I MIGHT do this without the sub and see how it sounds for a while... but I think I know already - I don't think ANY speaker will play bass in those underseat enclosures we have. I have liked the DLS MW110 but I guess it's been replaced? I've tried some of the newer flat woofers and been underwhelmed. I prefer a 10 to a 12 due to height limitations in the box design. I may try the new PPI flat-piston woofer. Suggestions are welcome. Amps: I have an audison LRx 4.5 4-channel and an audison LRx 4.1k that are great-sounding amps. I have to figure out if they will both fit in the driver's side panel. I am looking at running the larger set of channels of the 4.1 to the sub and the smaller 75x2 set to the underseat woofers, and then the symmetrical 75x4 channels of the 4.5 to the front-door mids and tweets. OEM interface: Having tested the E90 non-Logic 7 before, I know that I need to re-eq the response, but I can use the BMW crossover point without summing the sub and front channels back together. So I plan to use a Zapco DSP6 processor for its 10-band parametric EQ per channel and DSP crossover slopes. I also plan to use the time correction function on the mids and tweets. I've done this in an E83 and an E90 with very good results. So I will have Front Highpass, Front mid Bandpass, both driven off of the front outputs of the OEM amp, whose EQ processing will be reversed by the Zapco DSP6. I will have Underseat midbass bandpass and Subwoofer lowpass both driven by the OEM amp's subwoofer output, and then split the frequencies between the two. (I know the DSP6 has only 6 channels... I may need to run the midbass in mono, not my favorite idea... still thinking this through.) Outstanding questions: - Will these amps all fit? Will I need to use another route for OEM integration to handle my # of channels? Can I make all this fit? I have to pull the floor out and see if there is room between the wheels like there is on the E83... - What sub will I land on? - How bad is new speaker wire into an E90 front door? (My guess - pretty bad). Since I am old and out of shape now, I will probably be asking for help from some friends at different times. I plan on documenting with photos and test screenshots and all the rest, so hopefully this info is useful for others. More news as it appears!
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01-28-2008, 01:41 AM	#2
aRangel Enlisted Member 2 Rep 49 Posts Drives: 2010 Silverstone e92 M3 Join Date: May 2006 Location: Monterrey, Mexico iTrader: (0)	Good luck
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01-28-2008, 02:13 AM	#3
SantaClawz First Lieutenant 20 Rep 300 Posts Drives: BMW Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Ventura iTrader: (2)	holy god, you are taking this custom sound to an entirely new level. LOL. shit, i wanted to do an audison amp, with hertz in the front. i'm only leasing, so didn't want to dump more money into messing with it. __________________ ROLLING STOCK
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01-28-2008, 11:04 AM	#4
VP Electricity Brigadier General 301 Rep 3,201 Posts Drives: F34 xDrive Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: portland oregon iTrader: (3)	I did an E60 with the hertz 4" HSK set in the front and a 10 in the trunk. Bolted the amp under the deck lid.SOunded MUCH better. Guy had an 04 w/Logic 7 and hated it, got his 07 w/o Logic 7 and had us upgrade it. Sounded great, leased car, removable without visible mods.
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01-28-2008, 01:43 PM	#5
SantaClawz First Lieutenant 20 Rep 300 Posts Drives: BMW Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Ventura iTrader: (2)	JEEZ VP! You make me wanna get that Hertz man!!! I was about to get that same exact setup! __________________ ROLLING STOCK
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01-28-2008, 01:45 PM	#6
SantaClawz First Lieutenant 20 Rep 300 Posts Drives: BMW Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Ventura iTrader: (2)	its either Quads Exhaust or this Hertz combo. What kind of amp did you use? I'm gonna use audison, but they are going to hide it, and just display the JL 500/1 in the back. __________________ ROLLING STOCK
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01-28-2008, 01:49 PM	#7
SantaClawz First Lieutenant 20 Rep 300 Posts Drives: BMW Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Ventura iTrader: (2)	oh one last thing, next time for my 2010 M3 (when lease is up), and i am 100% not getting Logic 7. It's terrible and distorts frequently and randomly. __________________ ROLLING STOCK
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01-28-2008, 07:27 PM	#10
VP Electricity Brigadier General 301 Rep 3,201 Posts Drives: F34 xDrive Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: portland oregon iTrader: (3)	I have been thinking about doing some speaker-only test fitting to see how it sounds. Maybe I will do a test.
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06-05-2008, 10:49 PM	#11
sageashton Second Lieutenant 13 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2006 325i, Manual Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Santa Clarita, CA iTrader: (0)	Curious how this coming along since it has been several months... any news?
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06-05-2008, 11:27 PM	#12
VP Electricity Brigadier General 301 Rep 3,201 Posts Drives: F34 xDrive Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: portland oregon iTrader: (3)	I am in the middle of moving from Socal back to Portland, and so I have put it off a bit. I have a buddy in Portland that I'd like to have help me with it, who is a much neater wiring guy and a much better fab guy than I am (in the words of Ratbert, "I'm more of an idea rat" ). But July and August will see some action
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06-05-2008, 11:34 PM	#13
sageashton Second Lieutenant 13 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2006 325i, Manual Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Santa Clarita, CA iTrader: (0)	Cool. I am really curious how going active is going to work out. It's one thing that I have been toying with, but I don't want to add a second amp just to try it out.
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06-06-2008, 01:11 AM	#15
sageashton Second Lieutenant 13 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2006 325i, Manual Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Santa Clarita, CA iTrader: (0)	My honest thoughts: 1. I would never know unless I hooked up the OEM amp back up. However, the OEM amp to Infinity's was a noticable improvement, so perhaps (I think it's a long shot) it may sound good. Personally, and I don't say this much, I think the biggest improvement in my system was adding an amp, not the speaker improvement, although with the dotech's I think that may change. 2. In your proposed set up you are going to need a minimum 3 way crossover, right? One for the Mid bass, one for the mid and one for the tweet. But you still need to cut out the frequencies below 50 hz for the rear sub, so I guess that would be a 4 stage crossover? With the audiocontrol unit I have, I could just use the PFM to filter below 50hz (for the R sub), then the low pass for the mid bass to mid and the high pass for mid to tweet. This would be with my DQX, but your right you would not be able to tune it below 50 hz. Hmmmm... what about if you ran the low pass, split it with a 'y' then put some tunable passive to cut off below 50hz on the midbass channel, then ran the other split to your r sub? Just an idea, your the guru not I. But if you ran it all channelled (6 in the front and one mono for the back you) you would not lose time correction (well, you would for the sub, but not the front). On the sub, I'm stumped. Then again, I am happy with the subs under the seat. 3. I am already going to hell. I run my underseat subs in mono and cross them over between 125 and 150 hz. I'll admit that it IS noticeable, but not enough for me to care. 4. I agree. I leave mine off until someone sits in back and then I will put them on, but only barely. That's also another reason I got the dqx as opposed the dql-8 or dqxs. That's also why I am only getting one set of dotechs Let me know what you figure out. I have been tossing active around for awhile now, but for me it is easier because I will never put a sub in the trunk (need all the space I can get back there). Hey, slightly off topic but with your phonic rta (when you did that non invasive install with the zapco) what was the Q (width) on the 1khz peak? And was it really a +9db peak or did I misunderstand that?
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06-06-2008, 01:26 AM	#17
sageashton Second Lieutenant 13 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2006 325i, Manual Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Santa Clarita, CA iTrader: (0)	Now I get to show how truly ignorant I am? What does .707 translate to in octaves? You have got to be chuckling right now. LOL. And was the peak really +9 db?
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06-06-2008, 01:37 AM	#18
VP Electricity Brigadier General 301 Rep 3,201 Posts Drives: F34 xDrive Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: portland oregon iTrader: (3)	.707 is a Q of roughly"normal" aspect ratio. Here are my measurements of the electrical output of the amp of a non-Logic-7 system with pink noise.
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06-06-2008, 10:32 PM	#19
installmd Private 6 Rep 48 Posts Drives: 2006 E90 330I - Monaco Blue Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: CT iTrader: (0)	VP, when i did Morel Elate 4 and tweets in Qlogics E92, front doors (all active) I was able to get a 16ga wire through the door boot without too much trouble. I think the first one took me maybe a half hour to figure out, but the second one was maybe 15 minutes to do. As far as figuring out your active issue, why not run your mid bass/sub frequencies into your 4.1K, and use the internal crossovers available to the LRx's to split the frequencies for the mid bass and sub channels. Admittedly, it has been a while since I used the Audison amps, but I remember there crossovers on the LRx series being pretty good. I used something like this for Qlogics using a mix of an Alpine PXA-H700 crossover/EQ and internal amplifier crossovers to get the full active 10 channel system we ran. Just an idea, but it might work for you. installmd
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06-06-2008, 11:15 PM	#20
VP Electricity Brigadier General 301 Rep 3,201 Posts Drives: F34 xDrive Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: portland oregon iTrader: (3)	That's not a terrible idea, in that the path length difference between the E90 F tweeter and F mid is just about identical if memory serves, so using the DSP6 as the crossover from the mid to the tweet doesn't have the huge benefit of the time correction that it would have in, say, an E46 coupe. But with the location I think I'm stashing the amps, I would have a terrible time tweaking the xover point and the gains - the gains being the one I'm worried about the most. The Morels, like most passive xovers, have series resistance with the tweeter regardless of which output tap you use, which means that the tweeter is more efficient than the mid, and that the signal level must be lower for the output levels to match. But it is preferable to running the midbass in mono to me So I might do it. I think the small 4-channel would fit in the empty tray forward of the well and just aft of the R seat. I've used that tray in other E90 but I haven't verified that it's empty in my car yet.
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04-11-2009, 04:12 PM	#22
VP Electricity Brigadier General 301 Rep 3,201 Posts Drives: F34 xDrive Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: portland oregon iTrader: (3)	OK, this project has taken forever to start. Since I posted this, we have moved, and I just spent 9 months commuting by air for my old job. Since I am now with lots of time on my hands, I have picked up the project. One problem is that the Audison amps - nice as they are - are the wrong shape and size for a stealth install in the E91. I would need to build a false floor and lose a couple of inches, and I am not committed to do this. So I have been thinking about what to use that can fit. I was hoping to use the between-the-wheels cubby in the floor, but the TPMS module now goes there. I have to use the well. If it were an E90, I would use the underside of the rear deck. Zapco amps are out for the same reason - and Arc, and Genesis, and DLS, etc. All long, narrow amps are out if I want to use the well. PDX amps and JL HD amps would fit from a size and shape point of view - but they are both Class D, and I am not using Class D amps in my car - especially for full-range application. RF, Kicker, etc., are just out. So here's what I think: Arc Audio Minis. I can do two or three in the well, PLUS the Zapco DSP processor, and make it all serviceable and easy to get to. If it turns out I don't like the sound, I can switch to the Tru Technology S45s. Which would run up the cost. So I probably need to sell my Audison 4-channels. I will run a post on that over in the FS section. Anyone use the Arc Audio Minis?
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