[kaigoss69]

I just got a JL Audio HD600/4 amp which accepts high-level speaker level signals through its RCA inputs. I am planning not to use a line level converter and feed the speaker outputs of the L7 amp directly into the JL. I will use channels 1 & 2 for the front door speakers (Focal 100 KP) and channels 3 & 4 for the underseat SWS-8's.

I did some searching on the web but all I found were some cheapo Radio Shack RCA cables like this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...LAID=107595248

Anyone else know a better product of higher quality, or is this good enough???

Edit: How about this one?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136CLR2...W.html?tp=2610

[Technic]

You cannot use the HD600/4 (11V max input sensitivity in the high level setting) with the OEM Top HiFi amp woofer outputs (16V peak) directly as you will saturate that amp sooner or later...

Get a cheap Cleansweep/summing module with that HD600/4 and be real happy...

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by Technic

You cannot use the HD600/4 (11V max input sensitivity in the high level setting) with the OEM Top HiFi amp woofer outputs (16V peak) directly as you will saturate that amp sooner or later...

Well, I was thinking 11V is better than 8V, which is the max. sensitivity of the current Blaupunkt amp and it is working well. Makes me think though....when I start getting distortion with my current set-up, is it from the subs being overdriven, the amp being clipped in the output stage, or because of the input stage being clipped due to the voltage exceeding 8V... hmmmmmmmm (damn you Technic ).

What I will do is I will measure the voltage coming from the L7 amp's speaker outputs with a multimeter using some 0dB test tones to see where the voltage is at the max. volume level I would normally listen to (I will probably also zero out all the equalizer settings below 150 hz). My guess is that the reading will be much below 11V but we'll see.

Originally Posted by Technic

Get a cheap Cleansweep/summing module with that HD600/4 and be real happy...

I am planning to stay with the L7 processing for now to see how well (or not) some good aftermarket speakers will do with it. Therefore I do not want/need the cleansweep. I guess if I decide I need to have a summing module, I will probably get a LC6i, but I hate the idea of introducing further audio components in the signal path, in an effort to keep it as "clean" and simple as possible.

[VP Electricity]

I don't think you need a summing module, because I think the xover points are usable.

But I still think that most of the EQ applied to the L7 system is speaker-related. So, I predict you will find that as far as EQ goes, better speakers sound worse in that system.

From what I've read, I suspect that there are time delays in the L7 system which no CURRENTLY-available interface restores.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Well, I was thinking 11V is better than 8V, which is the max. sensitivity of the current Blaupunkt amp and it is working well. Makes me think though....when I start getting distortion with my current set-up, is it from the subs being overdriven, the amp being clipped in the output stage, or because of the input stage being clipped due to the voltage exceeding 8V... hmmmmmmmm (damn you Technic ).

The issue here is the volume level of your system, as any aftermarket amp with high level inputs can be used with your system... as long as you do not confuse its max input sensitivity as the normal input level.

And something tells me that once you start listening to the SWS-8 pounding pretty tight you start cranking up that volume and thus exceeding that max input sensitivity for an extended and regular period of time. Then sooner or later that amp just start malfunctioning/distorting. There are a couple of cases posted in this forum -and now yours- of this issue.

If you are going to use an LC6i then do not use the summing feature and just use it as a straight thru active LOC, so in effect you will be only increasing the power output of the Logic7 system and not doing anything with its processing. The recommendation of the Cleansweep/summing device is because the Cleansweep alone cannot be used with crossovered signals.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

I don't think you need a summing module, because I think the xover points are usable.

But I still think that most of the EQ applied to the L7 system is speaker-related. So, I predict you will find that as far as EQ goes, better speakers sound worse in that system.

From what I've read, I suspect that there are time delays in the L7 system which no CURRENTLY-available interface restores.

I understand the L7 EQ having been "optimized" for the stock speakers. I am hoping that I can manage any gross peaks or valleys with the on-board EQ. As far as the time-delay goes, would that not be optimized for the position (which remains the same) rather than for the speakers?

[VP Electricity]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

I understand the L7 EQ having been "optimized" for the stock speakers. I am hoping that I can manage any gross peaks or valleys with the on-board EQ.

Hope that works out : ) You have any measurement tools to check it?

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

As far as the time-delay goes, would that not be optimized for the position (which remains the same) rather than for the speakers?

If the time effects are related only to speaker location, sure. But if they decided to do some sort of "effects", then you might be stuck with it.

[kaigoss69]

So I considered running a turn-on wire from the cig lighter but ended up buying an LOC anyway since it has that feature built-in, and also a few others...

http://www.audison.eu/index_main.php?Section=BITONE

Now I have a turn-on wire, an LOC AND I don't need to buy these stupid RCA adapters !!! LOL!

[VP Electricity]

Buy the V2 ".1" version?

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

Buy the V2 ".1" version?

Yep, made sure of that.

[VP Electricity]

It is a nice piece. If you retain the DRC, you might want to run your iPod analog out directly into it and leave the USB connected. Could sound better that way.

You need SMALL speaker wire to fit into the inputs. Small screwdriver too... like that jeweler's set they sell at Home Depot.

[kaigoss69]

Thanks. For now I will try to retain the OE volume controls and run everything through the HU. Later, who knows?!

As for the speaker wire, I think I have 14 or 16 gauge and I'll probably just end up trimming some of the strands off of the ends unless you have a better suggestion?

[VP Electricity]

16 GA MIGHT fit. I went to RadShack and bought 20 for my bench testing.