[drvai]

I use Zaino on AW.. looks great but I was thinking to try something new...

Does wax really represent an improvement in looks and/or protection? Specially in a white car...

[jopa489]

I usually do. For my E90, I prefer either Menzerna FMJ or Blackfire Wet Diamond for sealant. After allowing it to cure overnight, I'll use Dodo Juice Purple Haze (or Supernatrual if the mood strikes).

The look of Blackfire alone is really impressive though. Wax does amp up the shine just a bit though, and offers a little extra short-term protection.

[BCA]

My car is AW and I also use FMJ as my sealant currently. I will probably move to something with a little more longevity like Jetseal when I run out of FMJ, although I do love the ease of application and the look of FMJ.

I typically add a layer of carnauba after my first maintenance wash (normally a week or so after sealant application). It seems more convenient to me and gives the sealant plenty of time to cure. The FMJ looks great by itself but carnauba does add some depth, even on AW.

[MCMLXXXIX]

yup

i have an Alpine White as well. i use Chemical Guys JetSeal109 and top off with Dodo Juice Light Fantastic Soft Wax (great for white cars). will be doing this tomorrow if you want some pics

the JetSeal provides me with the protection and the soft wax gives extra depth and gloss

[stimpy]

Yep..

2 coats of Jet Seal 109 - 12 hour cure time apiece - and then a couple coats of P21S.

[BCA]

The P21S is great wax...I've used it the last few years and been very impressed.

I recently bought one of the little samples of Dodo Juice Diamond White hard wax and it seems very good as well. I've only applied it to my hood and front bumper thus far (whole car coat planned next month). It's probably a bit more durable than P21S...seems a bit harder and beads tighter.

[drvai]

Originally Posted by MCMLXXXIX

yup

i have an Alpine White as well. i use Chemical Guys JetSeal109 and top off with Dodo Juice Light Fantastic Soft Wax (great for white cars). will be doing this tomorrow if you want some pics

the JetSeal provides me with the protection and the soft wax gives extra depth and gloss

I'll be waiting for the photos!

[HazChem]

I always try.

I used Blackfire WD with two coats of Purple Haze.

[drvai]

Originally Posted by MCMLXXXIX

yup

i have an Alpine White as well. i use Chemical Guys JetSeal109 and top off with Dodo Juice Light Fantastic Soft Wax (great for white cars). will be doing this tomorrow if you want some pics

the JetSeal provides me with the protection and the soft wax gives extra depth and gloss

Do you use quick detailer after the wash?

[zaxjax]

On white I prefer two coats of sealant to ensure proper coverage and quick detailer to maintain. A wax topper is great for another layer of protection, but waxes typically add a warming effect to colors. I think white looks good crisp and clean, so two coats of say Opti-Seal or Zaino

[MCMLXXXIX]

Originally Posted by drvai

Do you use quick detailer after the wash?

i use it after the car is waxed and in between regular washes

im gonna try to take some pics of it now

[drvai]

Originally Posted by MCMLXXXIX

i use it after the car is waxed and in between regular washes

im gonna try to take some pics of it now

So you use sealer, plus wax, plus QD... That's quite a cake..

[MCMLXXXIX]

Originally Posted by drvai

So you use sealer, plus wax, plus QD... That's quite a cake..

some people may use the QD when wiping off the wax. and the great thing is that since you have all that protection and wax, when you wash your car, you can just touch it up afterward with the QD to give it that just waxed look

here are some quick pics from my garage. not the best but its dark out lol, ill post up better ones tomorrow taken outside

[MCMLXXXIX]

heres an older pic from a previous time. same result

[catch]

I wax on top of sealant. I seal once a year and wax a few times.

[TOGWT]

Why use a wax on top of a polymer sealant?

Some detailers find that a polymer sealant tends have a flat, silvered mirror look. Adding a Carnauba wax to the surface provides depth of shine, gloss, jetting (the so called ‘wet look’) and a warmth to the paint surfaces overall look. Bear in mind that how a paint surface ‘looks’ is very subjective and tends to invoke an emotional reaction rather than a logical one 95% of an applied wax comprises out gassed solvent that is wiped away, whereas 65% of a polymer sealant that is applied remains.

Detailers who prepare show cars will often layer a Carnauba wax on top of a synthetic wax; the synthetic wax acts as a gloss layer, while the carnauba wax adds depth and a wet-looking (jetting) appearance

Polymer sealants

Need a porous surface to bond to, they initially adhere by surface tension and then after a period in which the solvents /oils in the carrier system vaporize (outgas) the polymers cross-link to form a covalent (molecular) bond to the surface. This process usually requires 12-24 hours, which are time and temperature and / or humidity dependent.

Note that drying and curing are two different processes. Drying generally refers to evaporation of the solvent or thinner, whereas curing (cross-linking) refers to polymerization of the binder, which imparts adhesion, binds the pigments together, and strongly influences such properties as gloss potential, exterior durability, flexibility, and toughness.

The majority (70%) of a polymer matrix cross-linking cycle occurs within 30 – 45 minutes of its initial wipe-on application drying; however it is recommended that a period of 12 - 24 hours is allowed for the cross-linking process to complete, otherwise polymerization and durability may be compromised

Although it should be noted that surface oils or silicone and / or moisture introduced before the cross-linking process is complete will interfere with the bonding of a polymer and will negatively affect its durability
When polymer chains are linked together extensively by chemical cross linking - the formation of covalent bonds between chains; the polymer is harder and more difficult to melt. Curing is required to allow the monomers (polymer building blocks) to attach to the surface and to polymerize into a crystal-clear, impervious film.

It is very important to allow polymers to cure for 12-24 hours after the haze has been wiped off. If the coating is exposed to contamination such as oil, rain, water, cleaners, etc. before it has cross-linked, the contaminants may interfere with the film, preventing the polymer from achieving its maximum performance and durability. A polymer, unlike wax forms a molecular bond with paint once it’s had enough time to cross-linking.

A unique aspect of polyurethane chemistry is that the hydrogen bonding acts as an additional crosslink, but also allows thermoplastic flow, which helps the paint surface to retain its elasticity and its tensile strength to relieve mechanical stress. The basic structure of a polyurethane clear coat features a soft segment (polyol or tetramethylene ether) which gives it flexibility and elasticity. There is also a hard segment (polymerization) that has high urethane density, which gives the coating hardness and tensile strength

Carnauba wax

Carnauba in today's wax formulas functions mostly as a carrier; it’s used to keep the polymers and oils on your car's surface. Only a small portion of your vehicle's shine comes from the wax itself. Carnauba is translucent at best with only minimal light reflection. It is among the hardest of natural waxes, being harder than concrete in its pure form

This sacrificial barrier is all that stands between the environmental contaminants and the paint film surface and this renewable barrier is probably less than 0.1 µ (100 nm, 0.000 4 Mils or 0.000 004 inch) thick. An applied paint protection product is the barrier that provides protection for automotive paintwork besides the clear coat paint.

An organic wax also provides a sacrificial surface that will resist acid (salt brine, bird excrement, acidic rain, etc) better than a polymer, which forms a molecular bond with the paint, whereas a an organic wax forms a semi-hard protective shell (although it lacks durability of a polymer)


An extract from one of a series of unbiased Detailing Technical Papers, a library of educational materials that has become the #1 reference for car care on the Internet

I more than appreciate these articles are very technical in content and therefore will not appeal to every detailers level of knowledge or experience. But chances are you'll learn something about detailing if you read any of these.

© TOGWT ™ Ltd Copyright 2002-2010, all rights reserved

[claycourter01]

Originally Posted by stimpy

Yep..

2 coats of Jet Seal 109 - 12 hour cure time apiece - and then a couple coats of P21S.

for those of you using JS 109, I am curious; I know an overnight cure time is usually recommended for sealants, but the JS bottle instructions say that it's designed to be applied in 2 successive coats; so I'm wondering if there is really an advantage to the additional cure time for JS?

[Bobble]

I currently use BFWD topped with Natty's Blue. I waxed one week after seal and rewax every 6 to 8. Use QD almost every wash.