LSD operational sound different than normal?

jannisa · 12-16-2010, 12:39 PM

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It's the nut without number between #9 and #10.

Mr. 5 · 12-16-2010, 04:32 PM

Wouldn't the wheels spin as you turn the bolt?
I don't understand exactly.
Did you brace the #9 bolt as well or did you turn that one as well?
Did you brace the wheels so they wouldn't spin?

It would be nice to explain the entire process for those who are having this issue. Thanks in advance.

jannisa · 12-17-2010, 07:59 AM

You have to remove the main shaft, so #9 nut goes out. Next you brace the bihexagonal nut (the one without number) with the appropriate tool and with a second tool that comes along you secure the pinion bearing (that comes out of the final drive right of the #12 seal) so practically you eliminate wheel/pinion spin. The reason you have to take the mainshaft out is because the tool for the bihexagonal/castelated nut is a closed circular design. For the record in my case there were 2 craftsmen holding the pinion bearing in place and a third one loosened the bihexagonal nut, it is that tight. As mentioned before loosen anticlockwise per 8-10 degrees. It is mandatory to mark (or punchmark) the original position of this nut before loosening it in order to have a reference point for your finetuning. Hope this helps.

packinDSS · 12-17-2010, 02:44 PM

always install problem when you change the diff and get any noise........unless you forget to refill the pumpkin!!!!

I had this problem on a 90 LX 5.0 they had to re adjust the backlash.

Mr. 5 · 12-17-2010, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jannisa

You have to remove the main shaft, so #9 nut goes out. Next you brace the bihexagonal nut (the one without number) with the appropriate tool and with a second tool that comes along you secure the pinion bearing (that comes out of the final drive right of the #12 seal) so practically you eliminate wheel/pinion spin. The reason you have to take the mainshaft out is because the tool for the bihexagonal/castelated nut is a closed circular design. For the record in my case there were 2 craftsmen holding the pinion bearing in place and a third one loosened the bihexagonal nut, it is that tight. As mentioned before loosen anticlockwise per 8-10 degrees. It is mandatory to mark (or punchmark) the original position of this nut before loosening it in order to have a reference point for your finetuning. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info.
So based on what you said, do you think someone can do this by using some channel locks while the emergency brake is activated without having to take off the drive shaft?

jannisa · 12-18-2010, 12:03 PM

Theoretically you can, it's the same outcome but have someone apply the brakes too just to be sure. Your approach is for sure worth a try and I hope you can make it but once you see that castelated nut and the original tool required and considering the amount of force needed to handle it I wouldn't call it a safe bet, unless you are friends with Chuck Norris or Mr. T. It's worth a shot, keep us posted.

Mr. 5 · 12-18-2010, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jannisa

Theoretically you can, it's the same outcome but have someone apply the brakes too just to be sure. Your approach is for sure worth a try and I hope you can make it but once you see that castelated nut and the original tool required and considering the amount of force needed to handle it I wouldn't call it a safe bet, unless you are friends with Chuck Norris or Mr. T. It's worth a shot, keep us posted.

Cool. Yah, my buddy is having some sound and we were curious if this could be done without moving the drive shaft.
I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for all the answers.

creaminz · 12-19-2010, 02:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

Cool. Yah, my buddy is having some sound and we were curious if this could be done without moving the drive shaft.
I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for all the answers.

what kind of noise is he/she hearing? couple of days ago, I pretty much replaced all the hoses I could find with silicone hoses, also replaced all intercooler hoses with turbohoses but that damn noise is still there during highway cruise.

I might have to hit up HP Autowerks....

jannisa · 12-19-2010, 11:12 AM

Mr.5 I 'm having second thoughts on your solution. I believe that you have to loosen the propshaft nut as if you were about to uninstall the mainshaft because probably by adjusting the castelated nut you will set the bearing in a different position thus causing stress to the mainshaft if not deassembled. It makes sense to me. Hope this helps.

moveswiftly · 12-19-2010, 11:27 AM

I have the same issue but my diff was a complete final drive. Makes me thing that possibly the installation of the diff @ HPA was messed up? Or could there still be something in the install that needs to be adjusted. I was very competent in the shop that installed my DIFF. (MAC AUTOCOUTURE).

jannisa · 12-19-2010, 01:35 PM

Mine is a complete final drive too. I don't know what caused the noise originally but the adjustment described solved the issue.

12-16-2010, 12:39 PM	#23
jannisa Lieutenant 55 Rep 546 Posts Drives: Z4 Sdrive35i Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Greece iTrader: (0)	It's the nut without number between #9 and #10.
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12-16-2010, 04:32 PM	#24
Mr. 5 Modder Raider 799 Rep 8,633 Posts Drives: M3 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Surf City, HB iTrader: (31) Garage List 2007 e90 335i [8.00]	Wouldn't the wheels spin as you turn the bolt? I don't understand exactly. Did you brace the #9 bolt as well or did you turn that one as well? Did you brace the wheels so they wouldn't spin? It would be nice to explain the entire process for those who are having this issue. Thanks in advance. __________________ e36 M3 Coupe, e36 325i Sedan e90 335i--SOLD Best 60-130-------------9.15 Seconds------------------WWW.MR5RACING.COM
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12-17-2010, 07:59 AM	#25
jannisa Lieutenant 55 Rep 546 Posts Drives: Z4 Sdrive35i Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Greece iTrader: (0)	You have to remove the main shaft, so #9 nut goes out. Next you brace the bihexagonal nut (the one without number) with the appropriate tool and with a second tool that comes along you secure the pinion bearing (that comes out of the final drive right of the #12 seal) so practically you eliminate wheel/pinion spin. The reason you have to take the mainshaft out is because the tool for the bihexagonal/castelated nut is a closed circular design. For the record in my case there were 2 craftsmen holding the pinion bearing in place and a third one loosened the bihexagonal nut, it is that tight. As mentioned before loosen anticlockwise per 8-10 degrees. It is mandatory to mark (or punchmark) the original position of this nut before loosening it in order to have a reference point for your finetuning. Hope this helps.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

12-17-2010, 02:44 PM	#26
packinDSS Lead Foot 19 Rep 409 Posts Drives: 2007 BMW 335i Sedan Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: North Jersey iTrader: (1)	always install problem when you change the diff and get any noise........unless you forget to refill the pumpkin!!!! I had this problem on a 90 LX 5.0 they had to re adjust the backlash.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

12-18-2010, 12:03 PM	#28
jannisa Lieutenant 55 Rep 546 Posts Drives: Z4 Sdrive35i Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Greece iTrader: (0)	Theoretically you can, it's the same outcome but have someone apply the brakes too just to be sure. Your approach is for sure worth a try and I hope you can make it but once you see that castelated nut and the original tool required and considering the amount of force needed to handle it I wouldn't call it a safe bet, unless you are friends with Chuck Norris or Mr. T. It's worth a shot, keep us posted.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

12-19-2010, 11:12 AM	#31
jannisa Lieutenant 55 Rep 546 Posts Drives: Z4 Sdrive35i Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Greece iTrader: (0)	Mr.5 I 'm having second thoughts on your solution. I believe that you have to loosen the propshaft nut as if you were about to uninstall the mainshaft because probably by adjusting the castelated nut you will set the bearing in a different position thus causing stress to the mainshaft if not deassembled. It makes sense to me. Hope this helps.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

12-19-2010, 11:27 AM	#32
moveswiftly Colonel 392 Rep 2,926 Posts Drives: Cayman GT4, 135i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: NJ iTrader: (12) Garage List 2012 335iS [0.00]	I have the same issue but my diff was a complete final drive. Makes me thing that possibly the installation of the diff @ HPA was messed up? Or could there still be something in the install that needs to be adjusted. I was very competent in the shop that installed my DIFF. (MAC AUTOCOUTURE). __________________ Current: M2CS Gone but not forgotten: Cayman GT4, M2C, 2011 135i, E83 X3 6MT, 2016 SO M3, 2012 335iS, 2010 135i and 2006 e90 325xi
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12-19-2010, 01:35 PM	#33
jannisa Lieutenant 55 Rep 546 Posts Drives: Z4 Sdrive35i Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Greece iTrader: (0)	Mine is a complete final drive too. I don't know what caused the noise originally but the adjustment described solved the issue.
	Appreciate 0 Quote