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Sway Bars
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04-04-2007, 03:22 AM | #1 |
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Sway Bars
This may have been beaten to death already but i need to ask quick as I am getting them tomorrow. If I get the H&R sway bars for my 335i, should i get both? or is only the rear necessary? I realize the handling characteristics of a sedan may be different so input anyone? (I have the coupe btw).
Also, this upgrade will improve the "solid" feel of the car right? or is that the job of the strut tower brace? Thanks!!!
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04-04-2007, 03:40 AM | #2 | |
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strut tower brace suposedly improves rigidity crating a sharper turn in (car responds faster when you turn)
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04-05-2007, 05:54 PM | #3 | |
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04-05-2007, 06:30 PM | #4 |
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I would get both front and rear. I have the rear only and love it. I do plan on getting the front someday as well, but the rear is the most valuable. You can check their diameters in a few threads by searching, and also I believe there is a sticky in the suspension sub-forum.
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04-06-2007, 02:23 AM | #5 |
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I thought I'd chime in on this one too. Most of what people have said above is true. The sway bars keep the car flatter to diminish tilting (sway), keeping the outer tires planted more flat against the road, improving the contact surface area. However, more of the car's weight is also shifted to the outer wheels/tires when making turns. Ride quality is also compromised somewhat, though I have no regrets about going with front and rear sway bars. I will admit that when braking and making a quick 180 degree U-turn, the car tends to plow a bit more than I would like it. I wonder if this would be diminished by not having such a thick front sway bar.
As much as this subject has been beaten to death, I gather that people have a hard time understanding how these bars work, because they haven't gone under their cars to see where the bars are, i.e., how they connect the car's body to the strucures that hold the wheels (indirectly). Think of a flimsy corrugated box as the car's body, and this box is on wheels that attach to the 4 corners with 4 soft springs. Whenever this "box" car turns, it leans to the opposite side. The sway bars are solid bars that attach the cardboard box to the wheels to diminish leaning. Strut bars can be thought of as pieces that increase the rigidity of the box structure itself so that the box doesn't deform or change shape (say into a parallelogram) when stressed. I had the opportunity to ride in the Dinan E90, which keeps the stock sway bars, but changes the spring rates and shocks. It had a very nice ride and handled well around corners without much fanfare either. The ride was very compliant. So I think there are many variables one should consider before jumping blindly into a purchase. |
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04-06-2007, 11:32 PM | #6 |
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Amen.
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04-07-2007, 01:34 AM | #7 |
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One lone voter here for rear bar only!
Mike, with the stock front, and the H&R rear, plow will be reduced. Danny
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Last edited by HRC; 04-07-2007 at 03:26 AM.. |
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04-07-2007, 03:19 AM | #9 |
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Haha you're not alone...love my rear sway only setup
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04-07-2007, 03:40 AM | #10 | |
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Putting a heavy baby in the back seat will also increase oversteer. |
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04-10-2007, 09:57 AM | #12 |
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I vote for both, but I support Danny's decision
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04-11-2007, 03:28 AM | #13 |
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Looks like I'll go rear first and see what the handling is like......then go for the fronts if I need more turn in. Thanks everyone!!! As usual, a rockin set of answers to my question.
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04-12-2007, 04:24 PM | #15 |
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Ultimately, you want to make sure that any bar you buy is adjustable. Without being able to tune the stiffness you're not really setting the car up to your driving style.
Some people like ultra quick turn in, for them a stiff front bar makes sense. Some like oversteer, stiff bar out back. If both are adjustable you can set the stiffness up to be as close to neutral as possible. I've learned to stay away from aftermarket sways for two reasons. 1. If they're adjustable (and this is the same reason I tried to shy away from coilovers this time too) I'll constantly find some reason that adjusting them "this" way will be beneficial. Much to my wife's chagrin. Many a saturday has been blown when I wake up early and decide, "I can adjust it real quick and have it buttoned back up before she even wakes up". 2. I haven't had an aftermarket bar yet that didn't make contact with some part of the frame or axle at the extreme ends of suspension travel once the car was lowered. Usually the adjustable end is too long, and then when you set it full still (hole furthest from the end) you loose that 1/16" clearance that you needed. I'd also be willing to bet that a lot of people who are plowing an e90 came from front drivers. In steady state cornering you should get just a little plow, but if you're plowing in transition, or tight corners, you're getting on the throttle too early. A habit I had to break coming back to RWD after driving AWD for a few years. |
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