Help with changing rear rotors

toyoda · 10-23-2010, 09:18 PM

I have a 2006 325i , I replace front rotors no problem , but I got problem with rear rotor.( the rear is same like front ?)
I follow this link to remove rear rotor:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=brakes&page=6

don't know why the rear rotor is stuck I use hammer ( solid plastic hammer) to knock it out (I knock very hard) , but what ever I do is not even move, anyone have any idea to remove my rear rotors?

DESI4life10 · 10-23-2010, 09:22 PM

You don't have the handbrake engaged right?

May sound weird, but the parking brake shoes (pads) are located where the hub is. Having the handbrake engaged may be the reason the rotor isn't coming off easily.

forza1976 · 10-23-2010, 09:32 PM

Wrong forum

toyoda · 10-24-2010, 11:26 AM

Quote:

You don't have the handbrake engaged right?

The handbrake not engage , the rotor should be free to remove but some how I got stuck , like I said in the front I don't have problem at all.

zsapphire7 · 10-24-2010, 12:29 PM

the mallet then would be your friend and something like wd40

JoeyFiasco · 10-24-2010, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by forza1976

Wrong forum

huh?

brocklanders · 10-24-2010, 05:34 PM

i just did my brakes, the rears were alittle harder they took a few more smacks. i used a rubber mallet, dont know if that will change any thing or not. i dont think the shoes inside the rotor hats are for the e-brake, i think its the traction control or dsc. someone please clarify i was wondering that myself. keep pounding away.

RFGuy_KCCO · 10-25-2010, 02:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brocklanders

i just did my brakes, the rears were alittle harder they took a few more smacks. i used a rubber mallet, dont know if that will change any thing or not. i dont think the shoes inside the rotor hats are for the e-brake, i think its the traction control or dsc. someone please clarify i was wondering that myself. keep pounding away.

The shoes inside the rotor hats are, in fact, for the parking brake. DSC uses the brake calipers.

toyoda · 10-25-2010, 09:06 PM

I use wd40 and the mallet still not moving , try to make (home make puller) hope will move.
will try again this weekend.

Bcube · 10-26-2010, 10:34 AM

I didn't change my rear rotors till a bit after 100K miles. Even with WD-40, Penetrating oil, and a metal hammer I couldn't beat the rotors off. Wife made a suggestion which worked perfectly. Since the car was on jack stands, I positioned the hyd floor jack to lift up on the rotor only. And s-l-o-w-l-y applied pressure. With minimum movement, the rotor "broke" free.

The HACK · 10-26-2010, 01:18 PM

Put rear of the car up on jack stands, put car in gear, accelerate, slam on brakes. Done.

crashoverride · 04-28-2011, 01:19 AM

OMG an hour job took like five hours trying to remove rear rusted frozen rotor. We hammered we pried we penetrated oil and we cussed a lot. My buddy who was over to help finally was like call the dealership maybe we missed something. The dealership guy says it should just slip off....but if not try lightly tapping with a rubber mallet....I was like the old rotor has dents from the F-ing sledge hammer I been using...

So the secret I don't know... we used lots of penetrating oil... used that rust eating stuff (I forgot name) did lots of heavy hammering...one thing to consider is the one side of a four ended tire iron that has the flat screwdriver side fits perfectly in the vanes of the rotor and is much stronger than a typical scredriver. Even better rotate the rotor tug with screwdriver or tire wrench in the vane then spin around rotor and try again.

10-23-2010, 09:18 PM	#1
toyoda Registered 1 Rep 3 Posts Drives: 325i Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Houston iTrader: (0)	Help with changing rear rotors I have a 2006 325i , I replace front rotors no problem , but I got problem with rear rotor.( the rear is same like front ?) I follow this link to remove rear rotor: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=brakes&page=6 don't know why the rear rotor is stuck I use hammer ( solid plastic hammer) to knock it out (I knock very hard) , but what ever I do is not even move, anyone have any idea to remove my rear rotors?
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10-23-2010, 09:22 PM	#2
DESI4life10 Banned 205 Rep 3,328 Posts Drives: Coding: Desi4life10@gmail.com Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: West of Toronto, Canada iTrader: (18)	You don't have the handbrake engaged right? May sound weird, but the parking brake shoes (pads) are located where the hub is. Having the handbrake engaged may be the reason the rotor isn't coming off easily.
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10-23-2010, 09:32 PM	#3
forza1976 Major General 3529 Rep 6,627 Posts Drives: BMW Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: 49456 iTrader: (13) Garage List 2022 BMW M3X [9.50]	Wrong forum
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10-24-2010, 12:29 PM	#5
zsapphire7 Colonel 113 Rep 2,368 Posts Drives: 08 e92 M3 Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: SF Bay Area iTrader: (21)	the mallet then would be your friend and something like wd40
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10-24-2010, 05:34 PM	#7
brocklanders Major 110 Rep 1,428 Posts Drives: the uno, mineral white Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: houston iTrader: (3) Garage List 06 325 [0.00]	i just did my brakes, the rears were alittle harder they took a few more smacks. i used a rubber mallet, dont know if that will change any thing or not. i dont think the shoes inside the rotor hats are for the e-brake, i think its the traction control or dsc. someone please clarify i was wondering that myself. keep pounding away.
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10-25-2010, 09:06 PM	#9
toyoda Registered 1 Rep 3 Posts Drives: 325i Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Houston iTrader: (0)	I use wd40 and the mallet still not moving , try to make (home make puller) hope will move. will try again this weekend.
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10-26-2010, 10:34 AM	#10
Bcube Been there, wrecked that. 18 Rep 547 Posts Drives: '07 E93 335i Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: SoCal iTrader: (0)	I didn't change my rear rotors till a bit after 100K miles. Even with WD-40, Penetrating oil, and a metal hammer I couldn't beat the rotors off. Wife made a suggestion which worked perfectly. Since the car was on jack stands, I positioned the hyd floor jack to lift up on the rotor only. And s-l-o-w-l-y applied pressure. With minimum movement, the rotor "broke" free. __________________ -Brian ~199K miles. I -still- don't fear my 335i.
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10-26-2010, 01:18 PM	#11
The HACK Midlife Crises Racing Silent but Deadly Class 1834 Rep 5,337 Posts Drives: 2006 MZ4C, 2021 Tesla Model 3 Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Welcome to Jamaica have a nice day iTrader: (1)	Put rear of the car up on jack stands, put car in gear, accelerate, slam on brakes. Done. __________________ Sitting on a beat-up office chair in front of a 5 year old computer in a basement floor, sipping on stale coffee watching a bunch of meaningless numbers scrolling aimlessly on a dimly lit 19” monitor.
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04-28-2011, 01:19 AM	#12
crashoverride Lieutenant 191 Rep 585 Posts Drives: na Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: na iTrader: (0)	OMG an hour job took like five hours trying to remove rear rusted frozen rotor. We hammered we pried we penetrated oil and we cussed a lot. My buddy who was over to help finally was like call the dealership maybe we missed something. The dealership guy says it should just slip off....but if not try lightly tapping with a rubber mallet....I was like the old rotor has dents from the F-ing sledge hammer I been using... So the secret I don't know... we used lots of penetrating oil... used that rust eating stuff (I forgot name) did lots of heavy hammering...one thing to consider is the one side of a four ended tire iron that has the flat screwdriver side fits perfectly in the vanes of the rotor and is much stronger than a typical scredriver. Even better rotate the rotor tug with screwdriver or tire wrench in the vane then spin around rotor and try again.
	Appreciate 0 Quote