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Tips for Indoor/Flash Photography
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04-30-2011, 02:45 PM | #1 |
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Tips for Indoor/Flash Photography
Okay, so the short of it goes, I just got back from a 2 week business trip and now have to shoot a small dinner/2nd reception for my parents later today. I'm still adjusting to the controls on my 5D and don't think my lens set is really geared for this, but so be it.
Thoughts on what lenses to bring? Choices are: 1. 50mm f1.8 (nifty fifty) 2. 85mm f1.8 3. 16-35L f2.8 (mkII) 4. 24-105L f4 IS 5. 70-200L f2.8 IS (mkII) My only option for flash is a 430EX which I never really use. Tips on indoor flash photography would be greatly appreciated.
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04-30-2011, 04:09 PM | #2 |
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Since you're using full frame, and if you want to keep it simple, I recommend using:
85mm f1.8 and 16-35L f2.8. If you don't want to swap lenses, use the 24-105L f4. Do you have a trigger/receiver for the 430EX?
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04-30-2011, 04:11 PM | #3 |
Bootleggin' 'n Gunrunnin'
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Not many options, but hotshoe mount the flash and go with the 16-35 or 24-105 (depending on the size of the *******. Try to bounce the flash if you can (very high ceilings would be the challenge). I'd probably also run the ISO up to 800.
Depending on the light, you might even get away with no flash and cranking the ISO. Good luck!
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04-30-2011, 04:13 PM | #4 | |
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04-30-2011, 05:25 PM | #5 |
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Due to your use of such profanity?
![]() Thanks, guys. My biggest worry is setting the flash wrong and over/under exposing things. I bought it years ago, but never use it. I have a little soft box attachment that fits over it (but does not obstruct the sensor) so I'll probably bring that as well in case the ceilings were too high to bounce light off of. I figured I'd bring the 16-35, 85, 50, and 24-105. Sounds like, with the exception of the nifty fifty (which is too light and small to not bring IMO) you guys more or less agree. Ashu, I do not have a remote trigger for the flash. Like I said, I pretty much never use it so I blow all my monies on non-flash oriented of camera gear.
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04-30-2011, 10:20 PM | #6 |
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Agreed!! Keep it simple
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05-01-2011, 10:04 AM | #7 |
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Jeff, how did it go? What lens(es) did you use?
I just asked about your flash out of curiosity. I would use a strobe on a shoot until you've heavily practiced with it.
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05-01-2011, 03:57 PM | #8 |
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For succesfull indoor flash photography I have a simple rule, optimize for available light. Depending on your camera (5D) go for the higher iso (800 should be fine but 1600 will be usable too, this is easy to test at home). Next step in using available light is aperture, since you've got some nice glass going on you can use max opening on the 16-35 and 70-200. The 50 & 85 are better at f/2.0 and I presume the 24-105 should be stopped down by 1 stop. If you were to shoot crop I wouldn't advise this but your full frame will actually display the weaker outer section of the lens (in the corners). The third step is speed, use the slowest speed you are comfortable with. Remember IS is good in countering your movements but will not change subject movement. Now that we've optimized for available light we'll underexpose the flash (NOT the total exposure) by 2/3 stop (this is done on the 430 EX). Final step, use your spot meter to actually measure on the subject. Et voila, pro looking flash shots.
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05-03-2011, 11:29 AM | #9 |
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Your 5D has ETTL so don't go crankin ISO. Your 430Ex will do just fine inside. If you can get it off the camera, even with a hotshoe extension cord, do it. Use the diffuser and the softbox to soften the light. Set ISO to 400, no higher. Fast lens will help, but be careful with the 16-35. you an get some weird effects if you get too close with a wide lens like that. The 24-105 is probably your best bet with the 5D since it has IS. Use Aperture Priority mode, f4 or 5.6. Use Exposure Compensation if you need to over/under expose a bit. There's so much technology in that camera you need to let it do it's thing with exposure!
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05-03-2011, 11:52 AM | #10 | |
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With high ISO performance bodies, ISO is just another method to achieving proper exposure. The 5DMkII should have no problems up to ISO 1600, even with flash. Don't fear ISO (if you have the right body)!
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05-03-2011, 03:01 PM | #11 |
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I was a professional party/nightclub photographer, paid my way through collage with it.
I would suggest getting a fast super wide, buying one of the on flash soft box's and trying to bounce as much as possible.. Its really quite easy just try to get even skin tone, the rest you will be able to do in lightroom/photoshop. ISO 800 is what I shot with 90% of the time. |
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05-04-2011, 07:10 PM | #12 |
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Thanks for the input everyone. Sorry for the delay in getting back to this thread. I survived the sushi in Yuma, but not my gf's cooking after I got home. lol
Overall, things went okay considering this was really my first time attempting flash photography. In the end, a little faster shutter speed would've been better but what's done is done and when the images are shrunk down or printed, it won't matter much anyways. I tended to keep the aperature pretty wide and hung out around ISO 1000 with an periodic venture up to 1600. When I finally figured out why my flash was being finicky, things went much better from the perspective of getting it to actually emit (I still had the original batteries I put in when I got the 430EXII a few years back so they were weak and caused a longer cycle time). I didn't use the softbox attachment I had since I was able to get decent bounce off the ceiling. I stayed in manual the whole time. In hindsite, I should've also played around with Av. Live and learn. Besides, I was kind of slacking by sneaking off to the bar to catch updates on the draft and GSP/Shields match. ![]()
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05-04-2011, 11:30 PM | #13 |
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what lens did you shoot with mostly?
I find when i use my 16-35, i don't really venture very far below 30mm if i can help it when shooting people, but when i'm playing around out in public i hit 16mm with it all the time. I love the lens a lot, and at 35 and several feet from a person, it can make a great portrait lens. Below 20, you can definitely start taking pictures of people with over large foreheads ![]() |
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05-05-2011, 12:00 AM | #14 |
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Mostly the 16-35 with some occasional 24-105. I can't help but shoot wide angle....I'm an addict... I did try to stay mid-20's or above, though.
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05-05-2011, 11:35 AM | #15 | |
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I have the 24-70 f2.8 which i used 95% of the time untill i got my 16-35, and now it's on the camera 95% of the time, and i barely use the 24-70 anymore.... if i need more reach, i tend to either grab my 100mm macro, or skip to the 70-200 f4 and the bigger telephoto. i find that 24-70 range is a bit boring now... I thought it might use it a bit more when i started travelling again, but i pretty much stuck with the 16-35. I like the exposures it gives... all that light it lets in is really nice. |
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05-06-2011, 12:52 PM | #16 |
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Amen.
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05-06-2011, 02:43 PM | #17 |
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Yeah keep it in AV 95% of the time. You'll get more color and less of a "spot-light" look in your shots. In manual, in most cases you are making the flash dictate the exposure which can result in P&S looking images.
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