[Chuck.Ruiz]

I will be connecting 2 Alpine PDX-5s and a JBL MS-8 to my e93 battery this weekend. I recall someone saying that the red distro block on top of the battery is fused and the draw of this equipment may blow that fuse. Inspecting further, there are two bolt down terminals that are potential connection points. One is in line with the plug in connections and the other is closer to where the actual positive battery terminal is, with a squiggly clasp to hold the door shut.



Which of these should I use, or is there a location that I'm not seeing? And what's the cleanest way to make my connection to this battery? I'm used to the aftermarket audio bling that makes these connections easy and clean, however, this is a different animal.

Thanks!
-Chuck-

[Atorsesh]

The reason I say NO for the first one is that is what powers the entire car. If that fuse blows, everything will shut off all at once. If one of your connections shorts or something bad happens while you are driving, the last thing you want is the car to just shut off.

Technic sells a harness that includes an adapter all crimped/soldered with a 4 gauge wire and ready to go. It makes installing super clean and super safe. PM him for info on it.

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by liliceman13300

The reason I say NO for the first one is that is what powers the entire car. If that fuse blows, everything will shut off all at once. If one of your connections shorts or something bad happens while you are driving, the last thing you want is the car to just shut off.

Technic sells a harness that includes an adapter all crimped/soldered with a 4 gauge wire and ready to go. It makes installing super clean and super safe. PM him for info on it.

There's no fuse on that wire you circled no. Only fused ones are the ones that accept plugs.

Op the top right nut is where the distribution block connects to the positive terminal and I think the BST.

I would mount it there. Not sure what the fuse rating is on those fused slots but I'm running 2 500w amps off one of them. Not all will be fused. It depends on what options you have and what your car is prewired for.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by liliceman13300

The reason I say NO for the first one is that is what powers the entire car. If that fuse blows, everything will shut off all at once. If one of your connections shorts or something bad happens while you are driving, the last thing you want is the car to just shut off.

Technic sells a harness that includes an adapter all crimped/soldered with a 4 gauge wire and ready to go. It makes installing super clean and super safe. PM him for info on it.

Actually, both terminals can be used if another fuse is installed inline with the cables used.

When more than a single amp is plugged into the distribution block -I used to have a PDX-5, a PDX 4.150 and a MS-8 plugged into a single slot for two years without any issues- I strongly suggest to keep a spare OEM distribution block fuse line (the part with the metal blades inside the red assembly, not the whole red plastic assembly itself) just in case of a blown OEM fuse. The whole OEM fuse line has to be replaced if only a single fuse is blown.

The car may not start if certain fuses in that block are blown.

[DieselDiner]

Originally Posted by Technic

I strongly suggest to keep a spare OEM distribution block fuse line (the part with the metal blades inside the red assembly, not the whole red plastic assembly itself) just in case of a blown OEM fuse.

Do you have the part number for this? Sounds like something I need to order today!

Edit: Here's the diagram from RealOEM, I think it's part number 3:
03 Power distribution box w fuse 1 61146971370 $46.70

[Chuck.Ruiz]

I'd rather not attempt to jam (2) 4 gauge and (1) 8 gauge cable into one of those plastic clippy things, that's why I want to use one of the screw down terminals.

So, if I have this right, I can use EITHER of the screw down terminals, as long (obviously for me, maybe not for others) as those runs are fused.

Now, does anyone know of, or has anyone used any sort of standoff to make connections to these points more elegant?

Thanks for all the replies,
-Chuck-

[Technic]

Originally Posted by DieselDiner

Do you have the part number for this? Sounds like something I need to order today!

Edit: Here's the diagram from RealOEM, I think it's part number 3:
03 Power distribution box w fuse 1 61146971370 $46.70

Yes, that's it... and I was mistaken, the whole part is sold as an assembly:

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by Chuck.Ruiz

I'd rather not attempt to jam (2) 4 gauge and (1) 8 gauge cable into one of those plastic clippy things, that's why I want to use one of the screw down terminals.

So, if I have this right, I can use EITHER of the screw down terminals, as long (obviously for me, maybe not for others) as those runs are fused.

Now, does anyone know of, or has anyone used any sort of standoff to make connections to these points more elegant?

Thanks for all the replies,
-Chuck-

Buy a separate distribution block like this one:



Wire to the screw down terminal or buy the plug for the OEM distribution block. Just FYI, I had to solder a 4 gauge wire to the metal connector inside the plug. I couldn't get it to clamp down securely.

Then run wires to your individual amps.

I would wire it to the screw down terminal though. Then put the appropriate fuses on the wires going from the distribution block above, to the amps.

[kmarei]

Originally Posted by *********

Buy a separate distribution block like this one:



Wire to the screw down terminal or buy the plug for the OEM distribution block. Just FYI, I had to solder a 4 gauge wire to the metal connector inside the plug. I couldn't get it to clamp down securely.

Then run wires to your individual amps.

I would wire it to the screw down terminal though. Then put the appropriate fuses on the wires going from the distribution block above, to the amps.

I prefer using this style

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_1705wt_922

Saves having to get the fuse holders, which leads to less cuts in the wire
So from 4 gauge through a fuse into 8 ohm to amp
I'm using one now
4 gauge into 2x 8 gauge
1 8 for the amp for the front speakers
And the other 8 gauge for the MS-8

I have another 4 gauge going to main amp (powers center, rear, and under seat subs)

Front amp soon to replaced by Old school Soundstream Class A amp

[Atorsesh]

I blew the main fuse (part I circled NO in the figure) and NOTHING in the car works. I mean...nothing at all...You have to replace the entire red block if you blow it and it's about $70. I run 2 Kicker amps (totaling about 300w) off 1 4-gauge wire out of a plastic clip (it's what Technic provided with his kit). I ran it to a fuse, then to a fused distribution block like Technic posted above. Each amp has 3 fuses between itself and the battery.

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by kmarei

I prefer using this style

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_1705wt_922

Saves having to get the fuse holders, which leads to less cuts in the wire
So from 4 gauge through a fuse into 8 ohm to amp
I'm using one now
4 gauge into 2x 8 gauge
1 8 for the amp for the front speakers
And the other 8 gauge for the MS-8

I have another 4 gauge going to main amp (powers center, rear, and under seat subs)

Front amp soon to replaced by Old school Soundstream Class A amp

Yea that is probably better. I just posted a picture of the first distro block I found.

Originally Posted by liliceman13300

I blew the main fuse (part I circled NO in the figure) and NOTHING in the car works. I mean...nothing at all...You have to replace the entire red block if you blow it and it's about $70. I run 2 Kicker amps (totaling about 300w) off 1 4-gauge wire out of a plastic clip (it's what Technic provided with his kit). I ran it to a fuse, then to a fused distribution block like Technic posted above. Each amp has 3 fuses between itself and the battery.

you probably blew the BST. Do you have interior lighting but no crank?

[Chuck.Ruiz]

I wound up mixing and matching some nuts, bolts and washers in order to connect to the unfused post (photo below). This is definitely rigged and won't stand the test of time nor my personal requirements of looking neat (even if it's hidden behind panels), so...

I found a machine shop in my neighborhood who will be making some standoffs for me. I'll be delivering the drawings this week and he'll be taking it from there. It will be short enough to clear the plastics in a convertible (one of my "problems"), brass core and bright nickel plated.

I've traditionally used the distribution blocks you guys have mentioned, bit I'm really cramped for space. I've found that I can move these around, so that the stock plastics fit back easily.

[The_Fixer]

Technic... some one mentioned you sell parts for installs.

Do you have a site to order from?

(I am working on my first 5 post so I could not PM you )

[gadg8man]

Anyone know what the diameter of that post is?
Trying to order my wiring now and I want to be sure I get the right sized
connector.

Thanks

Chris

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by gadg8man

Anyone know what the diameter of that post is?
Trying to order my wiring now and I want to be sure I get the right sized
connector.

Thanks

Chris

Get a 4 gauge ring connector, it should fit fine. Just make sure it is flexible and lets you bend the cable upwards, since all the "periphery" on top of the battery won't allow you to connect it flat.

[northX3]

Originally Posted by Chuck.Ruiz

I wound up mixing and matching some nuts, bolts and washers in order to connect to the unfused post (photo below). This is definitely rigged and won't stand the test of time nor my personal requirements of looking neat (even if it's hidden behind panels), so...

I found a machine shop in my neighborhood who will be making some standoffs for me. I'll be delivering the drawings this week and he'll be taking it from there. It will be short enough to clear the plastics in a convertible (one of my "problems"), brass core and bright nickel plated.

I've traditionally used the distribution blocks you guys have mentioned, bit I'm really cramped for space. I've found that I can move these around, so that the stock plastics fit back easily.

I don't understand... which of the 2 battery post is OK if you use an external, in-line, fuse ? And why is the "other" post not OK, even though you have an external fuse on your amp wire ?

I understand that there's an internal fuse for one of those 2 posts, but if you plug a "weaker" fuse, isn't the weak fuse going to blow, thus preserving the internal, battery fuse ?

Kinda confused... and I need to plug my MS-8 and my amp shortly

[itsy29]

So how to make or what kind of connection u will use to connect to the yes part