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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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My E91 - Project Sportification
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09-03-2020, 04:00 PM | #200 |
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+1 on the sigh...that's why we pay dealers crazy money!
![]() I hear a lot of people getting good results with whiteline rsfb inserts, so I'd go for it while you have it apart. you can do the bushings etc properly next year when you have time, like you say. |
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09-03-2020, 10:09 PM | #201 | |
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Yeah, it's time-consuming, but wasn't too bad in the end and I have the list now and ready to order. Hopefully, next week I can tackle some of this. I have a loooong list. |
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09-04-2020, 03:38 AM | #202 | |
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Also, with @nsjames on the electro-dipstick. Works fine. Don’t miss manual dipstick at all. This car burns virtually zero oil and even if it did the dipstick seems quite accurate as to the amount when I do need to add oil. |
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StradaRedlands6941.50 |
09-04-2020, 09:30 AM | #203 |
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Drives: 2011 BMW 328i (E91) Touring
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+1 on the Whiteline rear subframe inserts! Really much better feel all around and it should definitely be a "while you are in there" mod as they are relatively low cost.
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Current: 2011 E91 328i M-Sport Touring Past: 2008 E90 335xi 1996 E36 328i Sport |
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StradaRedlands6941.50 |
09-04-2020, 04:17 PM | #204 |
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Thanks guys!
I added the Whiteline inserts to the list. I also need to address the weak A/C. I can hear the compressor engage, so that seems fine. I need to poke around INPA to see how to check AC line pressure. On our Audi, it's quite easy to check. |
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09-05-2020, 03:16 AM | #205 |
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Drives: 2009 BMW 328i, Honda Civic Hat
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09-28-2020, 09:39 PM | #206 |
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Soooo, bad thing happened.
My wife was entering a parking garage and tried to move a corner of the garage with the car. It turns out that sheet metal yields to concrete! ![]() She felt very bad as we both love this car. In summary, we need to replace the rear passenger door and bottom of the quarter panel needs to be fixed and a bit of the side skirt. So, now I am on a hunt for a replacement door in Monaco Blue. Does anyone have any connections with freight companies that can ship large parts like doors from the US to Canada? All the junk yards I contacted so far, do not want to ship across the border and the pickings are slim around here. ![]() I went to a couple of places to get an estimate. If it comes back very high, I may consider going through insurance, otherwise, I'll replace the door myself and get a body shop to fix the quarter panel and paint blend the side. I wish I was spending this money on M Sport bumpers instead. ![]() |
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10-19-2020, 09:27 AM | #207 |
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So, I finally found a bit of time to replace the dead windshield washer pump.
It was not too difficult and there are some videos on YT, so this is not a full DIY, but some tips perhaps not evident "out there". Tools: - flashlight - 8mm socket (fender liner screws) - 10mm socket (plastic fender liner nuts) - T30 torx (plastic liner/skirt bolt) - 17mm socket (wheel bolts) - thin screwdriver or hex bit (push pin clips on the fender liner) The process goes like this: - Jack up the front right corner and remove the wheel (jacking up tip: Any operation under the car is best done with all 4 corners on jackstands or lift. But for a quick light duty DIY like this, lift the car using the rear right jacking point until the whole right side lifts, place jack stand under the front right jacking point and lower the car onto that jack stand while leaving the rear jack still supporting the weight) - Remove the rearward wheel well/fender liner. You will need to remove the small cover at the bottom by the thrust arm too. As well, remove one screw at the top of the forward liner by the headlight. It will make it easier to move out the washer reservoir. - Unclip the feeder tube from the holders in the wheel well - Unclip the two wiring harness/hose clips from the reservoir - Unbolt 10mm bolt holding the washer reservoir - Pull and swing the reservoir forward. You only need to remove it far enough to see the pumps on the side - Clean the area under the pumps to prevent debris from falling into the reservoir once you remove the pump - You may have up to three pumps depending on the equipment options: -- front pump is for headlight washers -- middle is for front windshield -- rear is for hatch window - rotate the pump to be removed, so that the nipple with the hose faces straight out - Slowly tilt the top of the pump out until it slides from underneath that little bit holding it down on the left side - Unclip the harness connector and tuck aside - If you have fluid in the reservoir, now is a good time to put a container/bucket under the area to catch the fluid. - Now, you can either tilt the pump until the grooves on the sides don't hold it down or gently spread the grooves and pry up the pump, so it goes straight up. Be careful here not to break the nozzle tip or the debris filter on the inside of the reservoir. See the attached pictures for the parts. Mine came straight up with the pump, so I removed them and replaced them back into the reservoir - Remove the hose from the pump. It just slides off. Slide it onto the new pump. - Position the new pump with the nozzle tip inside the rubber sealing grommet - Push into the space through the side grooves, then slide down until the top of the pump slides under the little retaining piece on the reservoir. Ensure a good seal at the bottom! - Before you reinstall everything, fill the reservoir to at least the pump height and check for leaks! Mine leaked a bit until I pushed the pump down properly and rotated the nipple back into place. - Go inside the car and check the operation. If all works, you're ready for re-assembly. - Reinstall the reservoir by sliding it back into place. There's a locating bracket in the back on the bottom half. Once you get that one in, it slides into place and you can confirm as you will be able to easily replace that 10mm bolt. - Clip back the harness and tubes into their guides - Replace the wheel well liner and bottom cover - Install the wheel - Lower the car - Torque the wheel bolts - Go a for a drive and spray your windshield and giggle like a little girl while doing so. |
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10-19-2020, 11:42 AM | #208 |
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honestly I found it easier to just pull the fender. it's only like 5 bolts maybe, and they're all accessible.
but I was tracking down a leak, 1" OD, I think,reinforced vinyl hose will slip tight inside the remains of the plastic corrugated fill hose and seal up with a zip tie. for when it starts to leak. I refused to give the $50 for that stupid fill hose. |
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StradaRedlands6941.50 |
10-19-2020, 07:47 PM | #209 | |
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On that note, Monaco Blue rear door in very good condition secured! $750. Ouch ![]() I will be selling a staggered set of 313M to fund this repair. Oh and I have a black E91 cargo cover for sale in the classifieds in case anyone is searching for one. |
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11-08-2020, 10:43 PM | #210 |
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Sooo, this weekend, I dove into replacing the starter, and installing some goodies along the way (3SIM, Turner intake boot, Euro air intake box). The objective was to finish on Sunday evening, so my wife can drive to work in the morning. I got the airbox in and then started on soark plug replacement while I had the cowl and cover off.
Well, the first plug had threads that were a bit wet, second was fine, third had some oil in the plug well and fourth had even more oil. So, I only replaced the first two after realizing I need to repalce the valve cover and spark plug tube gaskets. ![]() So much for what looked to be a happy week-end. It doesn't makes sense to put the cowl etc back in, I guess, so I'll call the dealer in the morning and hope they have these in stock and pay the crazy MSRP, so I can get the car back together. Besides the VCG, is there something else to replace? I see that some kits contain spark plug tube sleeves, eccentric shaft seals and valvetronic valve seal. Should I replace those too? Is OEM needed for those as well or can I get away with good aftermarket seals? I will be getting a genuine BMW VCG for sure. |
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11-09-2020, 09:05 AM | #212 |
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I'm in Canada, so I doubt it.
The local dealer's prices are actually higher than MSRP on bmw.ca. I really hate that. But after shipping and duties, it's only $15 more than FCP. ![]() The kicker is that they have everything in this FCP kit except the spark plug tube sleeves. Those would take 2 days from Ontario and we have a holiday on Wednesday, so Thursday at the earliest. Lovely. Do those sleeves need to be absolutely replaced? I don't want to do this job twice. |
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11-09-2020, 12:18 PM | #214 | |
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11-09-2020, 12:37 PM | #215 | |
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OK, it's valve cover time tonight! Wish me luck! I hope to have a nice update after this. ![]() |
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11-10-2020, 03:12 AM | #216 |
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Hello,
Im thinking of getting myself an e91. Its a 2008 325i m sport. Has 99,000miles. Its a decent spec, has half alcantara seats, sunroof, roofracks, paddleshift etc. And the price is good too. Will have enough money left for repairs/maintenance. Thoughts on doing this? Should i buy it? |
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11-10-2020, 05:52 AM | #217 | |
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Next question, please. ![]() But seriously, it sounds nice, but like with any used car, I would pay for a pre-purchase inspection at a knowledgeable shop. |
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11-10-2020, 03:02 PM | #218 | |
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My alternative is another 325i ms port e91. But with 50,000miles and full service histry but will be a stretch for my budget. Might be able to stretch far enough. Which one do i go for? Elias |
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11-10-2020, 04:14 PM | #219 | |
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I'd recommend you take a look at this guide to decide: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1517476 |
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11-10-2020, 06:20 PM | #220 |
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Alright, almost all buttoned up. Valve cover is back on, new spark plugs in.
Do I need to use INPA to reset the Valvetronic motor or is cycling the ignition sufficient/the same thing? |
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e91, manual, touring |
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