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another high boost N54 engine failure
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10-07-2010, 01:17 AM | #199 | |
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10-07-2010, 03:19 AM | #200 |
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I think everyone is on a false assumption here. The affected user posted it's error codes from the car and everybody dismissed them and instead they chose to say the failure was because of knock although KNOCK WAS NOT DETECTED.
It's convenient, right ? This way you can bash tunes and keep people un-scared and thinking that if they avoid knock everything is ok. It seems that everyone thinks that as long as you avoid knock, you can make 93834whp on the N54 engine, right ? Well, I think it's stupid. If you make too much power, regardless of knock or not knock, the engine will fail and the ringland seems an obvious point of failure. The forces pushing the pistons and heat are just too high ! So as much as anyone hates to admit, if you push more than 18-19psi on N54 with stock internals for too long, the engine is bound to fail...it's not about ANY tune. The proper failsafe would be a gentelman's agreement between BMS and Vishnu in order not to raise boost past a point of let's say 18psi, or other limits that they think it could ensure safety. That would be a proper failsafe...
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10-07-2010, 06:25 AM | #201 | |
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I don't think you understand the heat being generated by running these stock turbos at 19 psi. Pump simply cannot support this. Outside of that, this is all speculation about what happened at this point. |
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10-07-2010, 07:37 AM | #202 | |
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1. Engine failed 2. Knock was not detected What is more "right": to assume that the DME did not register knock events that happened and to continue the discussion for pages and pages OR to take into consideration the actual DME error code list ?
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10-07-2010, 07:48 AM | #203 | |
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Shiv even stated earlier that superknock/glow codes may not be triggered by single cycle or short duration major knock events. We just know nothing unfortunately. The problem is even if he was logging timing with the BT, it still may show nothing. The sample rate on the BT is horrendous and could conceivably completely miss the event. |
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10-07-2010, 07:55 AM | #204 | |
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10-07-2010, 08:43 AM | #205 | ||
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There is plenty of room for error, information withheld or not shown yet. Plenty of information could have been missed from the BT itself as well. Quote:
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10-07-2010, 10:19 AM | #206 | |
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I'm sure there are possible ways to install it with no failsafe, but why would you? Obviously as a end user its up to us to not do something stupid and costly. I didn't even think about how a user could have meth hooked up, but not the failsafe, and then tell the JB3 or Procede or Standback or whatever to run boost based on that meth flow but have 0 connection between the 2, thats a recipe for disaster. JPslick - I need to install a Hobbs switch to activate the Aquamist controller on boost and the let it dictate flow based on duty cycle. currently I cant do that so the way I have it wired for now only allows higher boost w meth flowing properly. I like the safety, but yes, it does lack full control. Then again, i'm not blowing my motor either.
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10-07-2010, 11:14 AM | #207 | |
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As FBIS said, plugs will tell current state of the cylinders...and I would bet $5 that he would have oil on his plug(s) 200-500 miles before it failed. So a good lesson can be check your plugs after some crazy high boosting fun. |
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10-07-2010, 11:24 AM | #208 |
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A slightly different question:
Ok, so the piston ringland area failed. Why are we calling this a complete engine failure? The block and the rest of the hardware should be still usable, right? Hopefully, all that Sevak needs is new pistons and probably some rehoning, correct?
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10-07-2010, 11:26 AM | #209 | |
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10-07-2010, 11:27 AM | #211 |
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10-07-2010, 11:29 AM | #212 | |
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10-07-2010, 11:30 AM | #213 |
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Ahhh, that makes sense. Is the N54 block sleeved? If so, wouldn't the sleeve crack and preserve the block?
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10-07-2010, 11:41 AM | #214 |
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10-07-2010, 12:10 PM | #215 | |
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10-07-2010, 12:13 PM | #216 |
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10-07-2010, 12:24 PM | #217 | |
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I know you ended up with fresh rebuild at OEM specs correct? curious what the $$ difference was for a low compression stout Forged build? I can get the parts together for my engine for around $3,500 that will handle 800whp or so w no problem. Different engine for sure, maybe one day the n54 will be that cheap.
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10-07-2010, 12:38 PM | #218 |
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When you are faced to a rebuild you have 3 choices:
- You get a complete rebuilt engine which from what i have heard BMW offer for about 5000-6000 USD (could be more) plus 3000 USD to uninstall and install. You could also find one from a wracked car which might be easier in the US than EU. - You open the engine and change the entire motorblock and pistons 3500 USD plus the usual 3000 to uninstall and install new pieces etc fix the head 1500 USD and count another 1000 USD for different parts, cleaning etc. (what i did) - You open the engine and fix the OEM motorblock (if possible depending on the failure) get new pistons (all 6, you dont want to get only one) that has to fit after boring/honing etc (how much this cost i have no idea) , at this point you get maybe CPE pistons with lower compression (1200 USD?) since you are at it and put it back together. In the last case you have an issue. You have NO idea how the engine will run afterwards. You risk the engine to consume oil etc. I did not want to take this risk. I wanted the car to run perfectly as before, so the third option might be a bit cheaper but with lots of unknown results. It also depends on the type of failure to do the third one. Also how long do you want to be without a car? this has to be taken into consideration as well. Is quite easy to say yeah do this do that but when you are actually facing such a failure i can assure you think a lot about the best solution for your needs.
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10-07-2010, 12:52 PM | #219 |
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Guys,
I've tried to go through most of the posts and I appreciate everyone being cordial (for the most part). This is a very informative discussion so let's keep it up.
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