[myculito]

Originally Posted by octalon7

I just used a generic worm gear hose clamp. I can't recall exact size, maybe it was a 1/2 or 3/4 inch. I just bought a few sizes and took back what I didn't need. I was able to get the OEM clamp off with some finesse using a few different pliers and some twisting until it broke off.

Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet

Same here, cheapo hose clamp works fine.

Originally Posted by Torqu3

I guess someone had replaced my hose clamp before because mine came off with a flat screwdriver. No issues.

I saw in some thread somewhere that the hose clamp was 3/8". Does that sound about right? In any event, i'm going to buy an assortment kit so I can use whichever one I need.

[Andy198712]

what make do bmw use for their fuel filter? Mann? i know their oil filters are Mann as it says it right next to the BMW logo!

[Built4Sin]

Originally Posted by Andy198712

what make do bmw use for their fuel filter? Mann? i know their oil filters are Mann as it says it right next to the BMW logo!

Just replaced mine that was last done by BMW, Mann filters.

Using the Schwaben Scan tool I ran the following options:
I bled the fuel system
Ran the 120L/hr pump 1 cycle
Ran the 60L/hr pump 1 cycle

Fired right up instantly.

Picked the tool up 25% during the christmas sales... Good thing, unless I find something else to do with it, this might be the most action it sees for a very long time! Knock on Wood; I use the Carly tool (IOS) for everything else.

[Adieu]

Prefilled filter with Liquimoly Diesel Purge, stuck a cap in hose while changing filter


Motor started first attempt, 4th crank, no dying no shutoff:

chug-chug-chug-GRRRRR

[Andy198712]

Originally Posted by Built4Sin

Just replaced mine that was last done by BMW, Mann filters.

Using the Schwaben Scan tool I ran the following options:
I bled the fuel system
Ran the 120L/hr pump 1 cycle
Ran the 60L/hr pump 1 cycle

Fired right up instantly.

Picked the tool up 25% during the christmas sales... Good thing, unless I find something else to do with it, this might be the most action it sees for a very long time! Knock on Wood; I use the Carly tool (IOS) for everything else.

Bingo, thanks buddy!!

[Persian Whisperjet]

Originally Posted by Built4Sin

Picked the tool up 25% during the christmas sales... Good thing, unless I find something else to do with it, this might be the most action it sees for a very long time! Knock on Wood; I use the Carly tool (IOS) for everything else.

Nice pics. I'm right there with you re the Schwaben tool. I find Torque is way better for parameter logging. But when there is a problem with my car the Schwaben will earn its pay including the bidirectional module communication feature and doing things you normally need ISTA for like resetting adaptations.

[rulonger]

Change the filter this past weekend. Very easy thanks to this DIY. As I have yet to breakdown and buy the Foxwell tool, I did the "press start button with foot off brake" method. Cycled four times and the car cranked on the second attempt.

[3wis3m3n]

Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet

Nice pics. I'm right there with you re the Schwaben tool. I find Torque is way better for parameter logging. But when there is a problem with my car the Schwaben will earn its pay including the bidirectional module communication feature and doing things you normally need ISTA for like resetting adaptations.

when changing fuel filter, do i need to do the reset adaptation for it afterward or no ?

[3wis3m3n]

Originally Posted by Adieu

Prefilled filter with Liquimoly Diesel Purge, stuck a cap in hose while changing filter


Motor started first attempt, 4th crank, no dying no shutoff:

chug-chug-chug-GRRRRR

when you said 'prefilled'
how much amount did you add into it ? half ?

thats actually first time i ever heard that. whats the advantage doing that ? i assume clean the lines along with it might as well while you there right ?

reason i ask you is that im due for fuel filter replacement and i dont have time and tools and even knowledge of doing the replacement. my dealer is going to do it. you think they will do the same method (pre-filled with diesel purge) or should i mention it to them ?

[3wis3m3n]

Originally Posted by Torqu3

Crankers are the kinds of people that use PVC pipes to make scoops.

Jokes aside, I grab an NT510 for diagnosis and service, and it has easily paid for itself. Priming the fuel system was a breeze, and gives me peace of mind. I'm sure cranking, so long as you minimize the amount of fuel spillage is not an issue. Thinking about doing battery registrations for the local people for $30. Make some cash, and save them 50% compared to the indy shops in town.

This tool has easily paid for itself. Monitoring coolant temp after thermostat swap, transmission fluid temp for a filter and fluid change. Oil temp so I don't burn myself doing oil changes. Resetting adaptations on basically everything.

wow. i like the sound of resetting adaptations.
i have a carly and i don't even think it does adaptations. i mean, its alright, but the device that you brought up sound like its a must have for fanatics or just someone that loves short cuts. and make money with it ? hmm. tell me more...

how much ?

[3wis3m3n]

Originally Posted by 335D Alpha Pappa

Yes I have the tool. It is more than an OBD2 reader. It can activate a lot of components. Initiate a dpf regen, register a battery, and so on. I got tired of icarly nickle and dimeing me to death. I had an original bmwhat adapter that no longer worked with icarly but works fine with torque pro. They wanted me to upgrade to their newest version for another $60 + battery option + regen option ++++...

you can save $20 by buying the Foxwell NT510 and get the BMW option, but I decided to support a vendor here and buy it from them. I plan on adding the GM and Ford options for $60 each. The tool will read all codes but you need the options to look at live data or to activate parts.

After it scans your vin, it shows 3 DDE options including a UK version. I think it is model specific and will only show the options for your car. I do not have access to another bmw to verify that.

overall, how accurate is carly ?
i find it not so well..
but then again i might be wrong.

i did a parameter on oil level per % and per dipstick. both shows different numbers. dipstick numbers (58) is actually higher than the % (35) i find that weird. and when i check the dipstick manually it is on the minimum to max level.

i have the all access carly, and if anyone else have carly and can attest to that then im going to look for something else. dont get me wrong, the coding stuff is great but i mostly use it for parameters and diagnosis.

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by 3wis3m3n

wow. i like the sound of resetting adaptations.
i have a carly and i don't even think it does adaptations. i mean, its alright, but the device that you brought up sound like its a must have for fanatics or just someone that loves short cuts. and make money with it ? hmm. tell me more...

how much ?

This: https://www.ebay.com/i/122690758355?chn=ps

Or this: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...BoCEkAQAvD_BwE

They're the same software. One is orange. One is gray. You make the choice. They do the same thing.

Carly is good for customization and code reading.

Foxwell NT510/Schwaben tool is good for code reading and diagnosis(but no customization).

ISTA/Rheingold is the best there is, but there's a pretty steep learning curve.

I find the NT510 easy to use after about an hour of going through the menus and messing with it. I bought mine immediately after buying the car. No way I could own this car without it.

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by 3wis3m3n

when changing fuel filter, do i need to do the reset adaptation for it afterward or no ?

No

Originally Posted by 3wis3m3n

when you said 'prefilled'
how much amount did you add into it ? half ?

thats actually first time i ever heard that. whats the advantage doing that ? i assume clean the lines along with it might as well while you there right ?

reason i ask you is that im due for fuel filter replacement and i dont have time and tools and even knowledge of doing the replacement. my dealer is going to do it. you think they will do the same method (pre-filled with diesel purge) or should i mention it to them ?

Dealership will purge the fuel lines with the appropriate software. Filling the filter is so you put less strain on the high pressure fuel pump because you didn't purge the lines.

Originally Posted by 3wis3m3n

overall, how accurate is carly ?
i find it not so well..
but then again i might be wrong.

i did a parameter on oil level per % and per dipstick. both shows different numbers. dipstick numbers (58) is actually higher than the % (35) i find that weird. and when i check the dipstick manually it is on the minimum to max level.

i have the all access carly, and if anyone else have carly and can attest to that then im going to look for something else. dont get me wrong, the coding stuff is great but i mostly use it for parameters and diagnosis.

From what I hear Carly isn't all that good. It's better than just a generic app like Torque Pro, but not as good as proper software.

[3wis3m3n]

Originally Posted by Torqu3

No



Dealership will purge the fuel lines with the appropriate software. Filling the filter is so you put less strain on the high pressure fuel pump because you didn't purge the lines.



From what I hear Carly isn't all that good. It's better than just a generic app like Torque Pro, but not as good as proper software.

Hey torqu3 thanks for all that info and replies it definitely gave me more knowledge and perspective on things. Regards to carly, yea i figured its not much more consistent than rheingold and even the other ones you mentioned. Im on board about carly is good for customization and coding.

Btw what’s your take on that new JR tuning handheld flasher ? It’s that much more consistent than carly or the other ones ?

There’s a ‘ghost code’ (at least I hope it is) on my DDE. It seems that it can’t be reset it. I wonder if any device that you have mentioned above able to reset
Or clear it ? I also wonder if the only way to clear it is to replace the DDE ?
I’m going for inspection in August
My car is stock

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by 3wis3m3n

Hey torqu3 thanks for all that info and replies it definitely gave me more knowledge and perspective on things. Regards to carly, yea i figured its not much more consistent than rheingold and even the other ones you mentioned. Im on board about carly is good for customization and coding.

Btw what’s your take on that new JR tuning handheld flasher ? It’s that much more consistent than carly or the other ones ?

There’s a ‘ghost code’ (at least I hope it is) on my DDE. It seems that it can’t be reset it. I wonder if any device that you have mentioned above able to reset
Or clear it ? I also wonder if the only way to clear it is to replace the DDE ?
I’m going for inspection in August
My car is stock

Handheld flashers are much more convenient for tuning than sending your DDE to someone to get tuned. Don't get the flasher to read codes. There's no need for that. Just get the Foxwell NT510

As far as the ghost code goes, I've never come across a code that the Foxwell NT510 couldn't read and clear. Carly should be able to read it as well.

[3wis3m3n]

Originally Posted by Torqu3

Handheld flashers are much more convenient for tuning than sending your DDE to someone to get tuned. Don't get the flasher to read codes. There's no need for that. Just get the Foxwell NT510

As far as the ghost code goes, I've never come across a code that the Foxwell NT510 couldn't read and clear. Carly should be able to read it as well.

Ok cool
Ill look into the foxwell hopefully it will read and clear all of the ghost code that i have (just a couple)
Carly able to read them but couldnt clear couple of them but as far as the rest
They still on my DDE. I wonder if i can still pass emission with those ghost codes still on there. (No SES)
If that wont work im guessing new DDE is the next other option
Although you are very certain that foxwell will clean everything.

Does foxwell able to do software upgrade for my car or only dealers and Indy can do it ?

[Persian Whisperjet]

The NT 510 cannot do a software upgrade for your ECU.

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by 3wis3m3n

Ok cool
Ill look into the foxwell hopefully it will read and clear all of the ghost code that i have (just a couple)
Carly able to read them but couldnt clear couple of them but as far as the rest
They still on my DDE. I wonder if i can still pass emission with those ghost codes still on there. (No SES)
If that wont work im guessing new DDE is the next other option
Although you are very certain that foxwell will clean everything.

Does foxwell able to do software upgrade for my car or only dealers and Indy can do it ?

If the codes aren't clearing and there isn't a light it probably means there is a minor problem that you should probably be fixing. I've had a few codes like that, typically relating to a vacuum leak or fueling problems. Not a huge issue.

Foxwell can't do software upgrades.

[3wis3m3n]

Originally Posted by Torqu3

If the codes aren't clearing and there isn't a light it probably means there is a minor problem that you should probably be fixing. I've had a few codes like that, typically relating to a vacuum leak or fueling problems. Not a huge issue.

Foxwell can't do software upgrades.

Yup I clear the SES and sometimes the same codes actually goes away but after a month later or so and driving x amount of miles down ahead, i purposely check with Carly with no SES, and the darn thing came back. Mind you, no power loss, no ‘200 Miles to go’ warning, no visible leaks, no nothing. It’s like it’s playing tricks with me. Dealer told me that possibility might be ghost codes.

Currently as we speak the car is at the dealership for oil change, fuel filter replacement, and possible thermo and/or water pump replacement (depends how inspection goes on those)

I spoke to the diesel master tech at the dealer and point out to check on all possible vacuum leaks or coolant leaks and I even told him to check on my urea injector just to be sure that it’s clean. Oh and, to check on the SCR tank and other related parts related to the SCR tank.

I probably should mention to upgrade all softwares (engine & gearbox, etc) while they at it ...we’ll see how it will turn out tmrw ...

[3wis3m3n]

Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet

The NT 510 cannot do a software upgrade for your ECU.

Dang it. I was hoping that it could.
Nevertheless, I think NT 510 is better overall than Carly in certain aspect.

[jeepinvader]

I just replaced my fuel filter yesterday, and I thought some of you might be interested in my findings. Big thanks to Mik325tds on activating the LPFP with Toolset 32. I should note, the old filter was a BMW filter, and had a manufacturing date of January 2017.

I pulled the filter outlet hose off and slid on another hose with the other end into an old juice bottle, just to see the flow rate. I ran the fuel pump with tool32, and I was unpleasantly surprised by my findings.

Next, I removed the old filter and heater, and just ran the fuel pump with the unfiltered fuel going into another juice bottle. Also rather unnerving findings.

After that, I hooked up the new fuel filter, ran the pump, and collected the fuel while the new filter was priming.

Finally, I ran the pump with fuel flowing through the new filter and into anther bottle.

A picture is worth a thousand words, so here are the 4 bottles side by side. Notice the color, clarity, and volume difference between the old filtered fuel, unfiltered fuel, and freshly filtered fuel. Note: The pump ran the same duration for each test, so volume in each container is directly related to filtration, not pump duration. Not only is the fuel through the old filter nearly half the volume of the freshly filtered fuel, but it looks as though the old filter is actually adding dirt/grime/particulate/"stuff" to the fuel going directly to the HPFP.



Here are some pics of the fuel filter cut open. Notice the "goo" between some of the fins in the element, and brown gritty stuff elsewhere.





I've heard that a filter actually filters better with age, since the stuck particulate acts as a finer media for the fuel to pass through. But based on my findings, I'd say there is a limit to that, and this filter was way past that limit.

Based on the unfiltered fuel color and cloudiness, It looks like I'll be doing a complete tank flush. Anybody know a good DIY thread? I might be interested in an aftermarket water separator/filter too, so I'll have to do some research there.

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by jeepinvader

I just replaced my fuel filter yesterday, and I thought some of you might be interested in my findings. Big thanks to Mik325tds on activating the LPFP with Toolset 32. I should note, the old filter was a BMW filter, and had a manufacturing date of January 2017.

I pulled the filter outlet hose off and slid on another hose with the other end into an old juice bottle, just to see the flow rate. I ran the fuel pump with tool32, and I was unpleasantly surprised by my findings.

Next, I removed the old filter and heater, and just ran the fuel pump with the unfiltered fuel going into another juice bottle. Also rather unnerving findings.

After that, I hooked up the new fuel filter, ran the pump, and collected the fuel while the new filter was priming.

Finally, I ran the pump with fuel flowing through the new filter and into anther bottle.

A picture is worth a thousand words, so here are the 4 bottles side by side. Notice the color, clarity, and volume difference between the old filtered fuel, unfiltered fuel, and freshly filtered fuel. Note: The pump ran the same duration for each test, so volume in each container is directly related to filtration, not pump duration. Not only is the fuel through the old filter nearly half the volume of the freshly filtered fuel, but it looks as though the old filter is actually adding dirt/grime/particulate/"stuff" to the fuel going directly to the HPFP.

Attachment 1896266

Here are some pics of the fuel filter cut open. Notice the "goo" between some of the fins in the element, and brown gritty stuff elsewhere.

Attachment 1896267
Attachment 1896268
Attachment 1896269

I've heard that a filter actually filters better with age, since the stuck particulate acts as a finer media for the fuel to pass through. But based on my findings, I'd say there is a limit to that, and this filter was way past that limit.

Based on the unfiltered fuel color and cloudiness, It looks like I'll be doing a complete tank flush. Anybody know a good DIY thread? I might be interested in an aftermarket water separator/filter too, so I'll have to do some research there.

Interesting findings, thanks for the detailed post! How many miles were on the old fuel filter? Did you decide to replace the filter because you saw a degradation in performance or just simply because it was due for a change?