[Jklad]

Originally Posted by AlpineSwift

Just FYI, there is no mounting point on either the old or new version of the VRSF pipe for that torx screw support. Any sound differences will most likely be attributed to replacing the stock DV's.

But honestly, between the Tial BOV and my DCI's with the BMS Cowl Delete, I couldn't tell you about ANY difference in sound with just the charge pipe. All I know is it scares the piss out of Subaru STI/WRX and Mustang owners around here.

That's awesome! I was test driving with the engine cover and cowls off after a quick lpfsensor and vacuum line repair over the weekend and I think people thought my car was broken!!

[AlpineSwift]

Is this what it sounded like? I still haven't quite figured out if this is normal or not because it goes away after the engine warms up a bit. Been debating whether or not to take it in the stealership and try to get my turbos checked.

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by AlpineSwift

Is this what it sounded like? I still haven't quite figured out if this is normal or not because it goes away after the engine warms up a bit. Been debating whether or not to take it in the stealership and try to get my turbos checked.

Nope, thankfully - that sounds like a police Siren!!!

[e90Mark]

I was gonna say that's the turbo siren noise, and there's a few threads on it here..

In short, something is about to break in the turbos.

[Acekid187]

Originally Posted by Jklad

That's awesome! I was test driving with the engine cover and cowls off after a quick lpfsensor and vacuum line repair over the weekend and I think people thought my car was broken!!

How hard was the lpf sensor to do. Need to do one myself

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by Acekid187

How hard was the lpf sensor to do. Need to do one myself

Lpfsensor was Pretty easy, as long as the control box comes out easily for you, this seems to be everyone's sticking point. There's some threads here the process, but to save time you don't need to completely disconnect the throttle body or the charge pipe. Disconnect your dv's at the charge pipe, disconnect charge pipe from throttle body and push it down out of the way. Then, undo 4 throttle body bolts and push that out of the way, no need to undo the connectors.

Next, slide out the control box - use some wd40 to clear off the grime and read up on various trick to get it off in others posts. Luckily. Mine came off easy with the twist of a screwdriver.
Next remove the sensor connection at the control box. (Unless you can manage to get at the connection on the lpfsensor itself, kind of cramped)

I used a long handled 24mm open ended wrench. Break it loose, then loosen by hand. As you turn it, be sure to finagle the sensor wire (if still attached) so that it spins along with the sensor.

Oh, andante sure battery disconnected and put a towel around the area to catch any fuel. Let the car cool off first so there's no pressure on the line.

Good luck!

Edit: sorry should have pm'ed that...

[AlpineSwift]

Originally Posted by e90Mark

I was gonna say that's the turbo siren noise, and there's a few threads on it here..

In short, something is about to break in the turbos.

Scheduled my car for a service visit next week to see if I can get my turbos replaced under warranty. Not going to be surprised if they say no but it's worth a shot. Definitely not letting them charge me an arm and a leg for stock turbos, that's for damn sure.

[C.Pop]

bonus points for using the word "finagle"

[select99]

today receive and install vrsf cp vs tial red.easy installation!!even just take off only one of bms coil intake,took about an hour and need to buy 1/4 hose 1' and hose adapter from 1/8 to 1/4.will post pics and sound later...

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by C.Pop

bonus points for using the word "finagle"

Hah, thanks - I think it's the first time I've used that word in a written sentence....

[dominick]

Can someone elaborate on where the vacuum hoses go please? Also where the adapter goes? Thanks

[Tiago@VRSF]

The order goes from intake manifold -> stock vacuum hose -> adapter -> larger vacuum hose -> bov.

[Acekid187]

Got the chance to install my cp ans bov and boy does it sound great. Just have to figure out the 30FF code I have now

[e90Mark]

Originally Posted by Acekid187

Got the chance to install my cp ans bov and boy does it sound great. Just have to figure out the 30FF code I have now

Didn't tighten those clamps down, I see.

[e90Mark]

Just noticed with some WOT shift with the weather being a bit clearer that I'm getting flutter..

Can anyone confirm that they have been getting YELLOW springs with their CP kits from VRSF?

I believe I read @HeavyMetalRocker and @AlpineSwift, you guys had yellow? What did you switch to? I believe an unpainted or white would work.. I'm only at like ~600ft. Also getting that 2 stage release sound.

[Tiago@VRSF]

The yellow spring is the 11 psi spring, should have been what was included if you ordered an 11psi spring.

Rather than changing springs, your best bet is to take a vacuum measurement to ensure that you fall between the requirements for the 11 psi spring.

[AlpineSwift]

Originally Posted by e90Mark

Just noticed with some WOT shift with the weather being a bit clearer that I'm getting flutter..

Can anyone confirm that they have been getting YELLOW springs with their CP kits from VRSF?

I believe I read @HeavyMetalRocker and @AlpineSwift, you guys had yellow? What did you switch to? I believe an unpainted or white would work.. I'm only at like ~600ft. Also getting that 2 stage release sound.

The yellow, according to a few different sources, is the correct spring if your intake runners aren't caked with carbon deposits, you don't have a boost leak, and you have the right size vacuum line. (I think I've covered all the possibilities here)

Because of my altitude, I ended up going down to a white spring. I may end up getting an unpainted one here by weeks end though since I'm having ar design do my walnut blasting tomorrow.

If your having issues with the yellow, like a ton of members on here are, go down to the unpainted.

[e90Mark]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

The yellow spring is the 11 psi spring, should have been what was included if you ordered an 11psi spring.

Rather than changing springs, your best bet is to take a vacuum measurement to ensure that you fall between the requirements for the 11 psi spring.

I didn't specify spring choice. Is yellow what comes with them originally?

Can I do that with my Cobb AP? And what if I don't, don't I have to drop to a weaker spring?

[Tiago@VRSF]

Most healthy N54's near sea level require the 11 psi spring (yellow).

I'm not sure if the Cobb AP measures vacuum to be honest.

[e90Mark]

Originally Posted by AlpineSwift

The yellow, according to a few different sources, is the correct spring if your intake runners aren't caked with carbon deposits, you don't have a boost leak, and you have the right size vacuum line. (I think I've covered all the possibilities here)

Because of my altitude, I ended up going down to a white spring. I may end up getting an unpainted one here by weeks end though since I'm having ar design do my walnut blasting tomorrow.

If your having issues with the yellow, like a ton of members on here are, go down to the unpainted.

I guess it's safe to say I also have a yellow.

They probably are.. 71k and no cleaning. Local blasting event is set to go in April, but that's away and no real date set.

Pretty sure no boost leak and I have an adapter from the 1/8" to 1/4", like everyone here.

And you're moving to an unpainted from white, since you'll have more vacuum after cleaning, correct?

EDIT: Also, where are you ordering springs?

[AlpineSwift]

Originally Posted by e90Mark

I guess it's safe to say I also have a yellow.

They probably are.. 71k and no cleaning. Local blasting event is set to go in April, but that's away and no real date set.

Pretty sure no boost leak and I have an adapter from the 1/8" to 1/4", like everyone here.

And you're moving to an unpainted from white, since you'll have more vacuum after cleaning, correct?

EDIT: Also, where are you ordering springs?

I buy my springs from a local performance shop. After shipping costs are weighed into purchase price, it's pretty much a wash so its just easier to buy local for me.

Here's what's going on under my hood. I do not run a stepped line which is probably a mistake but given the fact I wasn't given a vacuum line with my kit and neither was my dad, I had to improvise by going to the auto parts store.









I know, not the most scientifically accurate measurement but this is the best I can do with an iphone and little notice.

You can see the ID and OD of the line I'm using here (roughly). Works great for the white spring but I'm guessing the more experienced guys here will probably tell me I need to change it. Since my dad's CP isn't installed yet and I'm planning on getting the ECS boost gauge to tap into the line, the more I find out now, the better.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

All N54 Tial BOV ships as Q.11 (The 11 designates 11lb spring).

As Tiago said, a healthy N54 at sea level will require the 11lb spring.

If you are not at sea level then you may need a different spring.

If your at or near sea level and not pulling the normal vacuum then you have a leak in some fashion or gunked up intake valves.