[sukutash]

The connector at the top of the tube is mechanically part of the tube and ensures electronically that the tube is physically connected to the plastic pipe that runs the length of the valve cover to the hockey puck. The connector only serves to complete the circuit of the actual sensor at the bottom of the tube.

[QUIKDZL]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

Hmm, I guess Im still confused...if there is air flowing back through there, why would you need to jumper it?

Does everyone with the catch can have to do this? I havent seen anyone else mention it. QUIKDZL?

If the only part you are displacing is the accordian tube, no jumper is necessary. If you remove the upper plastic elbow to connect elsewhere, you lose the circuit jumper built into that elbow and must add a jumper. Make sense?

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by QUIKDZL

If the only part you are displacing is the accordian tube, no jumper is necessary. If you remove the upper plastic elbow to connect elsewhere, you lose the circuit jumper built into that elbow and must add a jumper. Make sense?

Yup, makes complete sense....and what I assumed. Thank you for jumping in there and clarifying.

[Lexx.md]

I have lost the idea.
Do you have any outstanding questions?

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by Lexx.md

I have lost the idea.
Do you have any outstanding questions?

If my list on the previous page is correct, and if a jumper wire is NOT required as long as you leave the two ends in place, but just remove the accordion tube...then I think this thread is pretty much good to go....and that list should be the standard (depending of course on where you want to put your catch can).

[RollingCoal]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

If my list on the previous page is correct, and if a jumper wire is NOT required as long as you leave the two ends in place, but just remove the accordion tube...then I think this thread is pretty much good to go....and that list should be the standard (depending of course on where you want to put your catch can).

I agree, I'm trying to pick the best can to mount and I'm going to come out the front with the elbows and wrap around the front of the engine bay, back to the open corner near cool side firewall. I'll use some type of hose retainers to keep everything level and tidy....may even use braided. I will document in detail and post a new thread linking from here.

[Lexx.md]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

If my list on the previous page is correct, and if a jumper wire is NOT required as long as you leave the two ends in place, but just remove the accordion tube...then I think this thread is pretty much good to go....and that list should be the standard (depending of course on where you want to put your catch can).

I have seen discussion about jumper, i don't have any jumpers, just had this piece of hose replaced and it is working good for now.

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by RollingCoal

I agree, I'm trying to pick the best can to mount and I'm going to come out the front with the elbows and wrap around the front of the engine bay, back to the open corner near cool side firewall. I'll use some type of hose retainers to keep everything level and tidy....may even use braided. I will document in detail and post a new thread linking from here.

When you create that, include the parts list and links I gave...that should help the newbs like you and I in the future.. frankly I think we need a list of stickys that list all the final "best practices for many things...like.... the EGR cooler delete....the catch can.... the SCR sensor fixes... our current threads go back 3 years and include the beginning of the trial and error...lots of stuff that people did that ended up not being the best plan...

[335dlci]

I still need to get on the bandwagon and buy a setup.

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

When you create that, include the parts list and links I gave...that should help the newbs like you and I in the future.. frankly I think we need a list of stickys that list all the final "best practices for many things...like.... the EGR cooler delete....the catch can.... the SCR sensor fixes... our current threads go back 3 years and include the beginning of the trial and error...lots of stuff that people did that ended up not being the best plan...

[RollingCoal]

I'm still researching various cans, and trying to decide what connector I'll use for the transition from the silicone elbows to the AN Braided Hose. I don't really care for the brass elbows. I'd prefer an aluminum barbed to barbed 1/2", but can't seem to find one. May go with a couple high pressure barbed to threaded just to dress things up a bit.

Regardless, I'll probably get everything ordered at the end of the week and install soon.

[QUIKDZL]

You can't beat the heat shrink hose clamps for dressing things up!

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by QUIKDZL

You can't beat the heat shrink hose clamps for dressing things up!

Yeah you can, 8$ a clamp. I'll pass. Lol

[QUIKDZL]

I got them for $2.98 each as an Amazon ad-on item!

[QUIKDZL]

But, hey, we drive Beemers. Money is no object, right?

[335dlci]

Did you end up doin an install? How clean did it come out with the parts you listed?

[QUIKDZL]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

Did you end up doin an install? How clean did it come out with the parts you listed?

If you're asking me, then yes I did. Original rubber elbow broke within three days. I purchased the reducing reinforced silicone elbows and cut them to fit, installing everything else as 135_vs instructed. Been running for about a month (2000 miles) with no issues. The installation is clean in that it is invisible from the top with the exception of the catch can itself. The can is not quite vertical like I would prefer, but I couldn't envision a way to mount it, so it floats freely as 135_vs intended.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by QUIKDZL

If you're asking me, then yes I did. Original rubber elbow broke within three days. I purchased the reducing reinforced silicone elbows and cut them to fit, installing everything else as 135_vs instructed. Been running for about a month (2000 miles) with no issues. The installation is clean in that it is invisible from the top with the exception of the catch can itself. The can is not quite vertical like I would prefer, but I couldn't envision a way to mount it, so it floats freely as 135_vs intended.

QUIKDZL, can you look in your can for any accumulation please? I had a leak in my system and had to replace the 90° elbows from 135i's kit. I've run about 800 miles since last time I emptied and got about 12 mL. I know that is a small amount but this would work up to ~ 75 mL (2.5 oz) in 5000 miles. Others seeing much more than this. I use a medicine measuring cup like one that comes with Pepto-Bismol (30 mL with graduations).

I'm unsure if
1) I'm just not collecting it and it's continuing on into turbo
2) my engine has less blow by (I don't believe this)*
3) maybe I need to move can to a cooler place in engine bay to get better oil condensation (like over by dipstick)

* I ran my CCV system open for about a week. I had visible smoke coming out of the overboard 1" ID power steering hose. It was enough for me to become concerned about being noticed by "Johnny" at intersections. I replumbed my CCV to closed again.

I recall a crafty redneck amongst us that used clear hosing into and out of his catch can to see if it were effective. He later reported seeing both sides of hoses being oily. I don't recall brand of can he runs though.

My can is where EGR cooler used to be. It is between engine and radiator slightly to the passenger side and about 3" below the snorkel. I use the braided lines that 135i_vs has in kit but with 90° at halfway point of each run. It makes it easier to aim where the can sits. My can isn't floating though. I have it zip tied to my coolant by pass line of EGR cooler (6" stainless pipe nipple portion of line).

Picture attached looking from driver's side. You can see that is secured to the stainless pipe to keep it from slapping around. I have a small piece of rubber between the can and the pipe too. Yes, it is redneck but all of our mod's have a certain rigged element to them. This is nothing in comparison to my spare tire under trunk mod.

[QUIKDZL]

Cuda, I just checked my accumulation using the dipstick. I have about 3/8" accumulation in about 2000 miles. At this rate, it looks like I'll be able to dump it at each oil change with room to spare.

[BB_cuda]

The dipstick doesn't go all the way to bottom. I suppose I would have to measure ID of can to convert your measure into volume ( as well as add on to 3/8").

[QUIKDZL]

I was hoping you'd do that.

[BB_cuda]

I wonder if ADD-w1 published specs for the graduations on the stick?

[QUIKDZL]

I sort of vaguely think I remember seeing that information somewhere in this lengthy post.