[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by mattanderson

Impressive!

Excited to hear impressions.

Not a whole lot to report. Diff isn't making any noises, and it's seamless. Taller gearing will take a lot to get used to, but the fuel economy is immediately better. Averaged 21 mpg on my test drive without trying, would've been 17 or so with the 3.73's. Car feels faster for some reason, especially in 2nd, has to be placebo effect. Haven't had the opportunity to test it much in the corners, but it feels a little more happy to rotate, no DSC light telling me I'm having too much fun. Really hoping for some rain here in the STL area next week to see how it handles with less traction.

[Hoody007]

Tint done! Installer used Panaflex Ceramic. Apparently a good quality tint - seems no different from the Pinnacle or Llumar I’ve had on previous vehicles.

Went with 35% on all but the front, where I did 70% - the lightest they had. Definitely seems to be helping with heat rejection. Left it outside to bake in the sun (100ºF feels like here in GA) and while the car was hot on the inside after an entire day, the heat seemed to be coming from the metal of the car, not the glass. As a plus the tint ties the Performance grills in quite nicely

[mattanderson]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Not a whole lot to report. Diff isn't making any noises, and it's seamless. Taller gearing will take a lot to get used to, but the fuel economy is immediately better. Averaged 21 mpg on my test drive without trying, would've been 17 or so with the 3.73's. Car feels faster for some reason, especially in 2nd, has to be placebo effect. Haven't had the opportunity to test it much in the corners, but it feels a little more happy to rotate, no DSC light telling me I'm having too much fun. Really hoping for some rain here in the STL area next week to see how it handles with less traction.

Nice work. Thanks for the follow up!

[bman142]

Replaced with stock. Looks like it was time!
Now I need to do the fronts...

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by RealJ22

Well, the results from one panel and one pass of the buffer…

Badass! That's one thing I'm too scurred to do lol

[lowrydr310]

What should have been a four hour repair ended up taking five days, but it's all finished now:

Oil filter housing gasket replacement, oil cooler thermostat gasket replacement, aluminum mickey mouse flange, new upper radiator hose, new hose from the top of radiator to the expansion tank, new belts, tensioner, idler pulleys, and aluminum power steering pulley, and new vacuum hoses for the turbos.

All was going well until I went to tighten the oil cooler thermostat housing and one bolt kept spinning. So I ordered a heli-coil kit, drilled out the old threads, cut new threads, and installed the insert. All good!


When removing the radiator fan, I noticed the intercooler inlet was popped out and not engaging the clips, so definitely a boost leak there. There was a lot of crud collected there, so it had been like this for a while. I removed the intercooler and both gaskets on the inlet and outlet were stretched so I ordered new ones and cleaned it up very thoroughly. Then I figured since I had all this space with easy access to the crank pulley, now was a good time to install a crank seal guard. I used a generic one, and it was simple to align and it fit perfectly.

When doing the mickey mouse flange replacement I had the new Rein hose with flange already attached but there was no way to access the hose clamp on the thermostat end of the old hose, not without removing the water pump and loosening the thermostat. So I just reused my old hose and attached to the new flange.

Also, I bought a Gates upper radiator hose thinking they're a good brand but this part looks like trash. The band clamps look really sloppy and crooked.



I used it anyway but I'm not buying any more Gates garbage.

After filling the coolant and doing the bleed procedure, all is good though I noticed a faint grinding sound from the water pump when it first starts running. I found some similar posts with videos which indicate this is a failing water pump. I have no codes yet, but I'll be looking out.

Car runs great but still not making as much boost as it should be. I was hoping that by fixing the boost leak at the intercooler inlet and replacing the vacuum lines (all but the one to the front turbo wastegate actuator - that's next when I can figure out how to get to it) I'd feel a difference but not yet. I suspect the solenoids are bad, since they're original with 160K miles on the car.

[Efthreeoh]

Well, I decided to invest in a replacement rear subframe. Just ordered the part from Tom's Foreign Autoparts. I've bought parts from them before, so they are a trusted source. Shipping was more than the part.

Soon on the list for the 'ole E90... rear subframeabdectomy.

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Well, I decided to invest in a replacement rear subframe. Just ordered the part from Tom's Foreign Autoparts. I've bought parts from them before, so they are a trusted source. Shipping was more than the part.

Soon on the list for the 'ole E90... rear subframeabdectomy.

well done dr, and may the patient cooperate and live long days.

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

What should have been a four hour repair ended up taking five days, but it's all finished now:

Oil filter housing gasket replacement, oil cooler thermostat gasket replacement, aluminum mickey mouse flange, new upper radiator hose, new hose from the top of radiator to the expansion tank, new belts, tensioner, idler pulleys, and aluminum power steering pulley, and new vacuum hoses for the turbos.

All was going well until I went to tighten the oil cooler thermostat housing and one bolt kept spinning. So I ordered a heli-coil kit, drilled out the old threads, cut new threads, and installed the insert. All good!


When removing the radiator fan, I noticed the intercooler inlet was popped out and not engaging the clips, so definitely a boost leak there. There was a lot of crud collected there, so it had been like this for a while. I removed the intercooler and both gaskets on the inlet and outlet were stretched so I ordered new ones and cleaned it up very thoroughly. Then I figured since I had all this space with easy access to the crank pulley, now was a good time to install a crank seal guard. I used a generic one, and it was simple to align and it fit perfectly.

When doing the mickey mouse flange replacement I had the new Rein hose with flange already attached but there was no way to access the hose clamp on the thermostat end of the old hose, not without removing the water pump and loosening the thermostat. So I just reused my old hose and attached to the new flange.

Also, I bought a Gates upper radiator hose thinking they're a good brand but this part looks like trash. The band clamps look really sloppy and crooked.



I used it anyway but I'm not buying any more Gates garbage.

After filling the coolant and doing the bleed procedure, all is good though I noticed a faint grinding sound from the water pump when it first starts running. I found some similar posts with videos which indicate this is a failing water pump. I have no codes yet, but I'll be looking out.

Car runs great but still not making as much boost as it should be. I was hoping that by fixing the boost leak at the intercooler inlet and replacing the vacuum lines (all but the one to the front turbo wastegate actuator - that's next when I can figure out how to get to it) I'd feel a difference but not yet. I suspect the solenoids are bad, since they're original with 160K miles on the car.

greetings lowry,
you may have seen this, but take a look at this most engenius method to address the front turbo wastegate vacuum hose....this would work on the back hose as well; i've done all the vacuum hose replacements except the two turbo hoses and have purchased 3 ft of solid copper ground wire from HD to use as the guide that is noted in this post - did you find the rear turbo vacuum line to be "easily" accessible when you replaced it? did you unbolt the vacuum canister bracket and remove this assembly to allow more room??

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1440745

[StradaRedlands]

Quite a week lowrydr310!!! I had a similar day turning into a week experience but with the upper radiator hose breaking, then the radiator breaking. Luckily no threads to tap though!!!

Bummer on the Gates parts... those were always a go-to for me.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by E93Seattle (Racerbruce)

well done dr, and may the patient cooperate and live long days.

Thanks. But I think I need to be analyzed by a professional...

In my defense though, the suspension is just 16,000 miles fresh; all OE sports parts, springs, struts, shocks (and a few bushings).

[jsunma]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Well, I decided to invest in a replacement rear subframe. Just ordered the part from Tom's Foreign Autoparts. I've bought parts from them before, so they are a trusted source. Shipping was more than the part.

Soon on the list for the 'ole E90... rear subframeabdectomy.

Well, I'm sorry you didn't get an excuse to purchase welding gear (to patch your existing subframe), but I think you'll be happy with the replacement.

True about the shipping...that's a honking big piece of metal though, so it makes sense.

[nuron]

*deep breath* where do I start--did all in a span of 5-6 weekends:

-oil pan gasket (OEM) + new bolts (Rein)
-engine mounts (Febi Bilstein) + tranny mounts (Lemforder) while I was there
-oil filter housing gasket--again. Found a newer version Made in Japan gasket and applied a layer of Yamabond that I had laying around on both sides
-new coolant reservoir tank + cap (both OEM). Bled with Zerex G48 coolant.
-oil change + filter from FCP euro

This was the plan, then things cascaded:

-read about engine mount bracket bolts shearing, so bought the bolt kit, but was only able to install the passenger side. Access on driver's side was harder, and I might tackle this later when the 3SI manifold install comes around.
-broke nipple on upper radiator hose when replacing reservoir tank so replaced that with OEM
-power steering return line had a very slow leak that really only was accumulating dirt so replaced with a Chinese part from Amazon while I had access with subframe being dropped

Another chapter that prolonged things:

-saw shift shaft selector seal was leaking, and replaced with Elring Klinger seal. While doing this, I then had to:
-replace guibo and center support bearing, both from SKF. Original ones were in good condition for my '07 having ~105k miles. 3D printed a driver to drive the CSB into place
-drive shaft centering sleeve

I read a guide from Pelican about replacing the shift shaft selector seal that made it look easy--remove 3 bolts from guibo and move the driveshaft back and pop it off to access the shift seal above.
Well, I would advise folks to drop the exhaust (remove all mounts and bolts except the most rear exhaust hanger), remove the heat shields so you can then access the center support bearing mount and loosen those bolts. Once that happens, the drive shaft can drop and clear the guibo area EASY.

I didn't do any of that and did a shit ton of prying on the guibo trying to push it back and then damaged the drive shaft center sleeve in the process (did the grease trick to push it out and it worked!) and pretty sure I stretched out the CSB which cracked the rubber on it as well. This is what made me replace the CSB and guibo while I was there.


Finally:
-replaced MTF with Redline D6
-bled brakes and clutch

It's now vibrating rough at idle, which I read may be common after replacing mounts, so need to go into IPA and raise the idle.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by jsunma

Well, I'm sorry you didn't get an excuse to purchase welding gear (to patch your existing subframe), but I think you'll be happy with the replacement.

True about the shipping...that's a honking big piece of metal though, so it makes sense.

Thanks for remembering that conversation.

I'll still get the welder (Lol). But I looked real close at the subframe and it's thinning out from the inside. It's too far gone; gaping hole on the left underside. Why the left rear wheel has not snapped off I'll never know.

Aside from the shipping cost, the used subframe was $149.00. Hard to beat that price. Ebay shit is all going for $500. F' that.

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Thanks. But I think I need to be analyzed by a professional...

In my defense though, the suspension is just 16,000 miles fresh; all OE sports parts, springs, struts, shocks (and a few bushings).

you're literally rebuilding from the ground up - well done.

tell me about your z4....how long have you owned it, mods, etc.

here's a link to my z4mr story and my replacement:https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1977986

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by E93Seattle (Racerbruce)

you're literally rebuilding from the ground up - well done.

tell me about your z4....how long have you owned it, mods, etc.

here's a link to my z4mr story and my replacement:https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1977986

The Z4 is a 3.0si Coupe. 2008. Black over Black Dakota Extended leather. Winter package and Sport package w/M-Sport seats. I'll have had it for 9 years December 2023. Brought with just 23,000 miles. 118,700 now. It's a pry-it-from-my-hands situation. If someone tries to jack it from me, one of us will be dead at the end of the confrontation.

100% stock running gear. Previous owner did a speaker (and an amp I'm guessing) upgrade. JL Audio components. The audio rocks pretty good. It was a professional install, I can tell that.

I did add mud flaps though.

The cool thing is the Z4 has the same last 3 digits of the VIN as my wife's 1987 Z3 Roadster. Built in the same factory some 19 years apart. Figured that was a sign they need to remain in the same fleet.

[eastsidaz]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Also, I bought a Gates upper radiator hose thinking they're a good brand but this part looks like trash. The band clamps look really sloppy and crooked.



I used it anyway but I'm not buying any more Gates garbage.

After filling the coolant and doing the bleed procedure, all is good though I noticed a faint grinding sound from the water pump when it first starts running. I found some similar posts with videos which indicate this is a failing water pump. I have no codes yet, but I'll be looking out.

My new Rein - Top Radiator Hose looked worse than this i ended up trimming the band off and replacing the clamp with a constant tension one.

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

The Z4 is a 3.0si Coupe. 2008. Black over Black Dakota Extended leather. Winter package and Sport package w/M-Sport seats. I'll have had it for 9 years December 2023. Brought with just 23,000 miles. 118,700 now. It's a pry-it-from-my-hands situation. If someone tries to jack it from me, one of us will be dead at the end of the confrontation.

100% stock running gear. Previous owner did a speaker (and an amp im guessing) upgrade. JL Audio components. The audio rocks pretty good. It was a professional install, I can tell that.

I did add mud flaps though.

you have a gem of a pure 2 seat sports car with raw, visceral handling unlike many others unless they are at least 4x the cost.

any diamond studs or day-glow orange paint on those mud flaps??

well done - so great to see long ownership like this; my 12.5 yr love affair with my z4mr ended in tears (literally); i sold it this past oct on bring a trailer and when the transport showed up at my door to take her to the new owner in connecticut, she was idling in my garage and in pristine condition....the driver took detailed pics and i signed all the paperwork and then he got in her and said "ok, i'm loading now"....i could not watch, went inside and fell on my wife's shoulder and cried.

[jsunma]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Thanks for remembering that conversation.

I'll still get the welder (Lol). But I looked real close at the subframe and it's thinning out from the inside. It's too far gone; gaping hole on the left underside. Why the left rear wheel has not snapped off I'll never know.

Aside from the shipping cost, the used subframe was $149.00. Hard to beat that price. Ebay shit is all going for $500. F' that.

Yep. Mine was scary decomposed. More scary once I saw it off the car.

My subframe was $140. Shipping was about $70.

[2one3E90]

Not bad for 225,000 miles

[ZachL]

Bought it! My first ever BMW... E91 new daily for the wife. Coming from a long list of VW/Audi/Porsche.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by 2one3E90

Not bad for 225,000 miles

Where are the screws for the engine cover?