[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Thanks. But I think I need to be analyzed by a professional...

In my defense though, the suspension is just 16,000 miles fresh; all OE sports parts, springs, struts, shocks (and a few bushings).

you're literally rebuilding from the ground up - well done.

tell me about your z4....how long have you owned it, mods, etc.

here's a link to my z4mr story and my replacement:https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1977986

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by E93Seattle (Racerbruce)

you're literally rebuilding from the ground up - well done.

tell me about your z4....how long have you owned it, mods, etc.

here's a link to my z4mr story and my replacement:https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1977986

The Z4 is a 3.0si Coupe. 2008. Black over Black Dakota Extended leather. Winter package and Sport package w/M-Sport seats. I'll have had it for 9 years December 2023. Brought with just 23,000 miles. 118,700 now. It's a pry-it-from-my-hands situation. If someone tries to jack it from me, one of us will be dead at the end of the confrontation.

100% stock running gear. Previous owner did a speaker (and an amp I'm guessing) upgrade. JL Audio components. The audio rocks pretty good. It was a professional install, I can tell that.

I did add mud flaps though.

The cool thing is the Z4 has the same last 3 digits of the VIN as my wife's 1987 Z3 Roadster. Built in the same factory some 19 years apart. Figured that was a sign they need to remain in the same fleet.

[TiAgAu]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Also, I bought a Gates upper radiator hose thinking they're a good brand but this part looks like trash. The band clamps look really sloppy and crooked.



I used it anyway but I'm not buying any more Gates garbage.

After filling the coolant and doing the bleed procedure, all is good though I noticed a faint grinding sound from the water pump when it first starts running. I found some similar posts with videos which indicate this is a failing water pump. I have no codes yet, but I'll be looking out.

My new Rein - Top Radiator Hose looked worse than this i ended up trimming the band off and replacing the clamp with a constant tension one.

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

The Z4 is a 3.0si Coupe. 2008. Black over Black Dakota Extended leather. Winter package and Sport package w/M-Sport seats. I'll have had it for 9 years December 2023. Brought with just 23,000 miles. 118,700 now. It's a pry-it-from-my-hands situation. If someone tries to jack it from me, one of us will be dead at the end of the confrontation.

100% stock running gear. Previous owner did a speaker (and an amp im guessing) upgrade. JL Audio components. The audio rocks pretty good. It was a professional install, I can tell that.

I did add mud flaps though.

you have a gem of a pure 2 seat sports car with raw, visceral handling unlike many others unless they are at least 4x the cost.

any diamond studs or day-glow orange paint on those mud flaps??

well done - so great to see long ownership like this; my 12.5 yr love affair with my z4mr ended in tears (literally); i sold it this past oct on bring a trailer and when the transport showed up at my door to take her to the new owner in connecticut, she was idling in my garage and in pristine condition....the driver took detailed pics and i signed all the paperwork and then he got in her and said "ok, i'm loading now"....i could not watch, went inside and fell on my wife's shoulder and cried.

[jsunma]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Thanks for remembering that conversation.

I'll still get the welder (Lol). But I looked real close at the subframe and it's thinning out from the inside. It's too far gone; gaping hole on the left underside. Why the left rear wheel has not snapped off I'll never know.

Aside from the shipping cost, the used subframe was $149.00. Hard to beat that price. Ebay shit is all going for $500. F' that.

Yep. Mine was scary decomposed. More scary once I saw it off the car.

My subframe was $140. Shipping was about $70.

[2one3E90]

Not bad for 225,000 miles

[ZachL]

Bought it! My first ever BMW... E91 new daily for the wife. Coming from a long list of VW/Audi/Porsche.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by 2one3E90

Not bad for 225,000 miles

Where are the screws for the engine cover?

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by jsunma

Yep. Mine was scary decomposed. More scary once I saw it off the car.

My subframe was $140. Shipping was about $70.

I hope my freight estimate is more near yours. I'm going to call and see if I can get a better shipping address that might be less expensive.

[2one3E90]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Where are the screws for the engine cover?

took them out and forgot to put them. Its on another engine cover laying in my garage. I just been lazy and its been like that for a year. Ill put em on

[Hoody007]

Originally Posted by ZachL

Bought it! My first ever BMW... E91 new daily for the wife. Coming from a long list of VW/Audi/Porsche.

Welcome! Enjoy the more sanely-priced parts (vs. Porsche, we have a 997.2 in the family and the parts prices (HPFP) are breathtaking…)


For my 335i:
Clay-barred the E90 - clearly had never been done before, the entire roof came out black with the clay. I’ve also been eying a set of Aluminum trim. I actually love the wood trim but it’s a bit dark now, and I’m not sure how well it goes with the Space Gray exterior. Shame none of the Individual trims are available anymore…

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by 2one3E90

took them out and forgot to put them. Its on another engine cover laying in my garage. I just been lazy and its been like that for a year. Ill put em on

did you spray paint the referenced engine cover? if yes, did you use a primer and color coat and what product was used to adhere to plastic?

[2one3E90]

Originally Posted by E93Seattle (Racerbruce)

did you spray paint the referenced engine cover? if yes, did you use a primer and color coat and what product was used to adhere to plastic?

never spray painted the engine cover. Its stock grey/silver.

[JB20DGM]

Originally Posted by E93Seattle (Racerbruce)

did you spray paint the referenced engine cover? if yes, did you use a primer and color coat and what product was used to adhere to plastic?

Earlier N52 engine covers were silver. I believe they changed over to black when they updated the engine and moved to the composite valve cover from magnesium.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by JB20DGM

Earlier N52 engine covers were silver. I believe they changed over to black when they updated the engine and moved to the composite valve cover from magnesium.

100% correct.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by jsunma

Yep. Mine was scary decomposed. More scary once I saw it off the car.

My subframe was $140. Shipping was about $70.

Throw a number at me...

What do you think the subframe weighs? I'm trying to figure out my loading options off the freight truck and into my pickup bed.

TIA.

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Throw a number at me...

What do you think the subframe weighs? I'm trying to figure out my loading options off the freight truck and into my pickup bed.

TIA.

turner motorsport e90 rear subframe shipment cost to baltimore (have no idea if this is near you) is $366

stopped the search for rear subframe weight - couldn't find anything.

[jsunma]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Throw a number at me...

What do you think the subframe weighs? I'm trying to figure out my loading options off the freight truck and into my pickup bed.

TIA.

I was trying to find some kind of freight (mine came UPS) invoice that showed the weight...but so far no luck with that.

I'm going to guess that it was just about 50 pounds. I had no trouble lugging it from the driveway to the garage, into my car, etc. I'm not Superman, so if it weighed much more than that, in the size that it is (it's really the size of it that makes it harder to move), I'd probably have had difficulty just picking it up and moving it. But I didn't.

Mine came with the bushings and the brake lines, and that's it. I would assume the same is true with the one you got...but obviously if there are other parts attached, the weight goes up some.'

I'll let you know if I find something that shows the actual shipped weight.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by E93Seattle (Racerbruce)

greetings lowry,
you may have seen this, but take a look at this most engenius method to address the front turbo wastegate vacuum hose....this would work on the back hose as well; i've done all the vacuum hose replacements except the two turbo hoses and have purchased 3 ft of solid copper ground wire from HD to use as the guide that is noted in this post - did you find the rear turbo vacuum line to be "easily" accessible when you replaced it? did you unbolt the vacuum canister bracket and remove this assembly to allow more room??

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1440745

The rear turbo vacuum line was pretty easy. I scratched my forearm on the metal bracket that holds the boost solenoids, but other than that it was surprisingly easy to get to.

I'm aware of the trick using the wire to align the vacuum line, however I could not see the front turbo wastegate actuator at all. I know where it is, I just cannot get a good view and have no idea how I'm going to get to the vacuum line. I will pull the fender liner and see if that gives me a better view, but from underneathe the car I couldn't see it.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by GovernUrMental

My new Rein - Top Radiator Hose looked worse than this i ended up trimming the band off and replacing the clamp with a constant tension one.

The old hose on my car was a Rein part, stamped "Made in Turkey." This Gates hose also says Made in Turkey.

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

The rear turbo vacuum line was pretty easy. I scratched my forearm on the metal bracket that holds the boost solenoids, but other than that it was surprisingly easy to get to.

I'm aware of the trick using the wire to align the vacuum line, however I could not see the front turbo wastegate actuator at all. I know where it is, I just cannot get a good view and have no idea how I'm going to get to the vacuum line. I will pull the fender liner and see if that gives me a better view, but from underneathe the car I couldn't see it.

knowing you saw this, but the purpose of me posting it is that the OP stated you cannot see the front turbo waste gate metal nipple where the vacuum hose attaches, so you have to "feel" it from the front of the engine to make it happen - sent this FWIW - regards.

Front Turbo tips:
1- to remove old lines, I used a Safety blade to cut them.....then twist and pull off...(this is for all connectors and T joints)
2) Front Turbo, un-Mount Vacuum canisters and Coolant Reservoir. No Need to Remove.....just get it out of the way, and give your Hand and Arm more room.
3) with LEFT HAND - Now you can ONLY get 1 Hand in there, and can only get 2 fingers on the line....so...
Get Left Hand all the way to the actuator,
4) Get an EXACTO knife that is fully functional and NOT too Thick in width.
dollar store stuff will work.
5) with RIGHT HAND - Slide Exacto knife from front of Engine and then extract the Blade so it touches the vacuum line. (with your left hand in there.....try to visually see your hand from the front of the engine....that will be your entry point for the Exacto Knife.)
6) with Left Hand( Fingers) push on back of blade to cut the OEM Line. (don't worry about damaging actuator.....it's the only vacuum connector that is metal.)

[colorado.e9x]

ZachL welcome to the forums!

What size tire you runnin?