[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by mattlac

Hey guys
Replaced my lines today with 3.5mm line from Verocious. Each line was done one at a time (removed, cut and replaced) with a few exceptions. Everything is correctly plumbed.

Before, the car had solid boost down low (2500 rpm+) and pulled much harder. After the new lines were installed the car felt like it had half the power. No boost at all down low and I could no longer hear the diverter valves release when I would free rev. It would pull well up top but until about 4000 rpm it had nothing.

Any thoughts? Maybe a line is kinked/pinched? I made sure to cut everything to OEM line lengths and tucked everything back in the retaining clips. I am going to take everything apart again next weekend but wanted to ask if there is anything else I should look for other than pinched/kinked lines.

You have something not plugged in. No question.

[mattlac]

Hmmm.

I double and triple checked every line and everything is plugged in and secure. No kinks in any lines, no cracked or broken nipples.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by mattlac

Hmmm.

I double and triple checked every line and everything is plugged in and secure. No kinks in any lines, no cracked or broken nipples.

Check your turbo actuators and make sure they are working. There are a few tests you can do. Google is your friend....

[NoGuru]

My lines come in tomorrow.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

My lines come in tomorrow.

Verocious Motorsports platinum cured?

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Verocious Motorsports platinum cured?

Yep, those are the ones. In blue to match the new blue DCI's coming in. I have a car show cumming up and want the engine bay looking vibrant

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

I have a car show cumming up and want the engine bay looking vibrant

I think there’s a typo in here somewhere...

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

I think there’s a typo in here somewhere...

LOL, I did that on accident but I think I'll leave it.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

Yep, those are the ones. In blue to match the new blue DCI's coming in. I have a car show cumming up and want the engine bay looking vibrant

Blue DCI's. AFE's ?? That's the only blue DCI I know of.

Get blue AFE air scoops too. Just a thought..

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Blue DCI's. AFE's ?? That's the only blue DCI I know of.

Get blue AFE air scoops too. Just a thought..

Burger makes blue ones now.
The car is already blue so I don't know that you would see the scoops.
In hind sight I think I should have went with Red.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

Burger makes blue ones now.
The car is already blue so I don't know that you would see the scoops.
In hind sight I think I should have went with Red.

You could paint the air scoops silver....

[tinytank]

Will be doing this very soon

[NoGuru]

Going to try and get this done before the weekend but I will get some pics posted when done.

[str8rcn]

Replaced all in my '07 today. Fixed the 30ff code and seems to run/idle better.
2 hours from start to finish including removal/install of cowl etc...

Used the same hose from verocious motorsports. I removed the vacuum canisters, moved the coolant tank without disconnecting hoses, moved wiper fluid fill neck out of the way, and removed the heat shield on inner passenger shock tower. This made things much easier. Only the lines from solenoid to turbo are a pain.
The front for me was the worst. Finally I was able to put my hand in with palm facing up and then turn over to get to the nipple. The rear was easier. Definitely use a small razor knife to cut the hose before removal as others have said.
The only tip I can give is I did "bevel out" the inside of the 3.5mm hose just a slight bit and put a dab of silicone spray on it to help get started on the turbo hoses and it did help.
Few pics below to show what i removed in case it helps.

[Julian2485]

Originally Posted by str8rcn

Replaced all in my '07 today. Fixed the 30ff code and seems to run/idle better.
2 hours from start to finish including removal/install of cowl etc...

Used the same hose from verocious motorsports. I removed the vacuum canisters, moved the coolant tank without disconnecting hoses, moved wiper fluid fill neck out of the way, and removed the heat shield on inner passenger shock tower. This made things much easier. Only the lines from solenoid to turbo are a pain.
The front for me was the worst. Finally I was able to put my hand in with palm facing up and then turn over to get to the nipple. The rear was easier. Definitely use a small razor knife to cut the hose before removal as others have said.
The only tip I can give is I did "bevel out" the inside of the 3.5mm hose just a slight bit and put a dab of silicone spray on it to help get started on the turbo hoses and it did help.
Few pics below to show what i removed in case it helps.

I know everyone is using the 3.5. I went with 4mm and it slid on nice and easy

[ludvball]

Originally Posted by Julian2485

I know everyone is using the 3.5. I went with 4mm and it slid on nice and easy

I am going to order some this week. Is there any reason not to get the 4mm instead of the 3.5mm? It seems it is easier to install. No leaks with the 4mm?

[Julian2485]

Originally Posted by ludvball

I am going to order some this week. Is there any reason not to get the 4mm instead of the 3.5mm? It seems it is easier to install. No leaks with the 4mm?

No leaks at all and it was easy to install just slipped right on

[HB E90]

[dcorn]

I believe I've swapped out all my vacuum lines. Zero change in engine behavior, but I guess it's just preventative maintenance.

FYI, I was only able to do the rear turbo line with the cowl removed.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Canadians where the hell did you source your vaccum line? Really not interested in paying 35$ USD in shipping alone from Verocious Motorsports and I can't find jack shit anywhere else

[weq92f]

.
This thread is great... helped me do this maintenance on my '07 e90 6mt 130k mile driver. Definitely needed done and is the first time as I've had this since 28k miles ( off lease )... new turbos at 40k under warranty.

All the factory lines looked pretty good except the front waste gate which had a couple bad spots in it. The rear waste gate line tore and left a small bit of itself behind on the nipple but I may have got the angle very wrong. I was able to get a razor blade on it though.

Thanks to all who contributed here!

My 2 cents...

The front was indeed the most difficult for me. I had the radiator out for replacement so with mirror could see the target and was unable with my arms and hands to do it. My wife was able to make a rescue after I was able to show her with visuals via the mirror and lights.

With the coolant overflow tank, vacuum tanks and heat shields removed I could just get my left arm/hand right where it needed to be on that rear vacuum nipple.

My supplies were limited as it was a last minute decision to do this and I wanted this thing running without waiting for 3.5mm lines from the source listed here so I used what I could find in my supply and locally. I measured and found that I didn't use anything over 4mm. In the rear I used heat shielding on the replacement line up to the 90* turn just because the line I ussed there didn't look so robust LOL! I did test it up to 25 Hg at around 70* F to make sure it didn't just collapse right away.

During an earlier alternator swap, I did some of the right side vacuum lines but only a few so I'll be looking around for that thread soon...

-klb

[southbaysteve]

I can't say thank you enough to the authors of this thread!! You made vacuum line replacement less mysterious than it was previously (black hose lines are hard to differentiate from other black lines in B/W photographs in the manuals). I bought silicone lines (thicker than stock by like .05 for OD, but ID is the same) and in dark blue to make it way easier for me to know what to change out next time.

Best!
Steve