[milly]

I've gotta ask though, did you get it leveled ?

[Simon.bmw]

DAMN.. i paid 3 hous labor to get them installed.. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! poor me!!!! i already sent a email to umnitza. hope i can get a good answer.

Originally Posted by milly

Uh oh.... Unfortunately the only way I know of is either asking umnitza or.... I know you don't want to hear it but, opening the headlight.

(it's not as hard as it sounds)

[Simon.bmw]

Originally Posted by milly

I've gotta ask though, did you get it leveled ?

i will ask the guys who installed my highlight, because he did not adjust my highlights...

[milly]

[QUOTE=Simon.bmw;10909361]

Originally Posted by milly

I've gotta ask though, did you get it leveled ?

Dang man, I'm gonna try to do the instal myself tomorrow... Hopefully I don't have to pay the 3 hours labor!

Umnitza has been good bout replying quickly though, I wouldn't worry.

[milly]

(read inside the quotes I messed it up lol.)

[Simon.bmw]

so milly, do u know any thread on how to remove the highlight cover??

Originally Posted by milly

Uh oh.... Unfortunately the only way I know of is either asking umnitza or.... I know you don't want to hear it but, opening the headlight.

(it's not as hard as it sounds)

[milly]

200 degrees
20 minutes
Cookie sheet, bake only.
Peel from high beam side only.
Do it slowly and be careful and you won't hurt them.

Put in the oven. Unscrew 2 little tiny screws in the back where the turn signal is. Take your time don't rush.


Nothing can hurt the headlight, theya re designed for much higher temps.
Resealing is easy, just put the two halves together and put back in the oven for 10 minutes.
It will warm up then just push the two sides tightly closed.

[Trevendous03]

Originally Posted by anthonym96

Trevendous03 did you ever figure out how to get rid of the car on the lift warning sign? my car randomly just started doing it

I got rid of my "car on lift" error by coding the VO for Xenon.

Here's the instructions I wrote to Milly (this assumes you already know how to run the coding programs and know a little bit about the coding process)...

I would create a video tutorial, but I don't want to have to start all over with my coding, especially considering it's 30 degrees outside haha and starting over with my old VO would then take me a couple hours out in the cold to re-code everything I have done.

Here's what you want to do:

1. Install the headlights and enjoy the xenon.
2. Adjust the aim of your headlights using the adjustment arms that require a Philips screwdriver.
3. Connect the coding cable normally, and open NCSExpert with your profile as normal.
4. After you click CAS module in the beginning, you'll get to the screen where you see the Chassis, the FG (VIN), the FA string with all the $ signs and hash marks and numbers, and the "Get Coded" at the bottom with every module listed.
5. Click Process ECU and select CAS from the submodules.
6. Click Read ECU.
7. Once it is read, open your TRC file in notepad, clear it out blank, and save it as your MAN file.
8. Do the coapiRead and SG_CODIEREN stuff like normal. This will set the CAS submodule back to stock.
9. Click the F1 button which will allow you to change the ECU.
10. Select your chassis again (if it makes you do that) then select NFRM from the submodule listing.
11. Repeat steps 6-8 to set the NFRM submodule back to stock.
12. Back out with the F6 button Zur/Back, and you should see the window I talked about in step 4.
13. Press F1 VIN/ZCS/FA
14. Press F2 Enter FA
15. Choose the chassis E89
16. The VIN should auto-fill in the field... make sure Calculate checksum is NOT CHECKED and click OK.
17. Type $522 in the Attribute field and click "Add"
18. Scroll down the list to make sure it was added.
19. Click OK
20. Press F6 Back
21. Press F4 Process ECU and select CAS submodule.
22. Press F2 Change Job and select FA_WRITE
23. Execute Job
24. Once job has ended, press F2 Change Job and select SG_CODIEREN and Execute Job.
25. Once job has ended, you should be able to select F1 to change the ECU and select NFRM.
25. Repeat steps 13-20.
26. Press F4 Process ECU and select NFRM submodule.
27. Repeat steps 22-24.

That should change the VO for you and give you the proper codes when you go back in and Read the NFRM from the new VO.

After you have done your normal read of the NFRM ECU submodule. Open your TRC, save it as MAN like normal, and do this:

Search for the self leveling line of code AUTO_LWR_ENABLE and change to nicht_aktiv

To enable inner halogen light as high beam and essentially reactivate the bixenon...

Search for
PWM_ANST_FL_BIXENON
wert_02
wert_03

Change it to
PWM_ANST_FL_BIXENON
wert_01
wert_01

Coding for xenon is complete. You can now go back and add all your cool features again and disable all the bulb checks, etc.

I didn't go into complete detail, considering a lot of these steps are outlined in the Change the VO PDF (ftp://94.212.182.18/Other-Software/N..._Order_CAS.pdf), but that PDF file doesn't outline everything you have to do... it misses some steps. Be patient when you load that PDF, because it's so big that sometimes it crashes first, and you have to reopen that web page to download it.

Originally Posted by Simon.bmw

OOOMMMGGG!!!
Damn!!!!!! today. when i tried to adjust my low beam... my angle eye jump off... what should i do now!!!!!!!!!!!!! im really unhappy with that!!．ToT.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Did you adjust with the adjustment arm? I'm surprised the AE would jump out, because it's not even a part of the projector assembly. That's strange!! I've adjusted my headlights a lot on each side, and nothing has happened to my AEs... they're still all connected. Then again, I have the FX-R retrofit, so obviously my setup is a little different.

I hope this never happens to me (knock on wood) cause I had to pay $450 to get my headlights installed.

[Simon.bmw]

Originally Posted by Trevendous03

I got rid of my "car on lift" error by coding the VO for Xenon.

Here's the instructions I wrote to Milly (this assumes you already know how to run the coding programs and know a little bit about the coding process)...

I would create a video tutorial, but I don't want to have to start all over with my coding, especially considering it's 30 degrees outside haha and starting over with my old VO would then take me a couple hours out in the cold to re-code everything I have done.

Here's what you want to do:

1. Install the headlights and enjoy the xenon.
2. Adjust the aim of your headlights using the adjustment arms that require a Philips screwdriver.
3. Connect the coding cable normally, and open NCSExpert with your profile as normal.
4. After you click CAS module in the beginning, you'll get to the screen where you see the Chassis, the FG (VIN), the FA string with all the $ signs and hash marks and numbers, and the "Get Coded" at the bottom with every module listed.
5. Click Process ECU and select CAS from the submodules.
6. Click Read ECU.
7. Once it is read, open your TRC file in notepad, clear it out blank, and save it as your MAN file.
8. Do the coapiRead and SG_CODIEREN stuff like normal. This will set the CAS submodule back to stock.
9. Click the F1 button which will allow you to change the ECU.
10. Select your chassis again (if it makes you do that) then select NFRM from the submodule listing.
11. Repeat steps 6-8 to set the NFRM submodule back to stock.
12. Back out with the F6 button Zur/Back, and you should see the window I talked about in step 4.
13. Press F1 VIN/ZCS/FA
14. Press F2 Enter FA
15. Choose the chassis E89
16. The VIN should auto-fill in the field... make sure Calculate checksum is NOT CHECKED and click OK.
17. Type $522 in the Attribute field and click "Add"
18. Scroll down the list to make sure it was added.
19. Click OK
20. Press F6 Back
21. Press F4 Process ECU and select CAS submodule.
22. Press F2 Change Job and select FA_WRITE
23. Execute Job
24. Once job has ended, press F2 Change Job and select SG_CODIEREN and Execute Job.
25. Once job has ended, you should be able to select F1 to change the ECU and select NFRM.
25. Repeat steps 13-20.
26. Press F4 Process ECU and select NFRM submodule.
27. Repeat steps 22-24.

That should change the VO for you and give you the proper codes when you go back in and Read the NFRM from the new VO.

After you have done your normal read of the NFRM ECU submodule. Open your TRC, save it as MAN like normal, and do this:

Search for the self leveling line of code AUTO_LWR_ENABLE and change to nicht_aktiv

To enable inner halogen light as high beam and essentially reactivate the bixenon...

Search for
PWM_ANST_FL_BIXENON
wert_02
wert_03

Change it to
PWM_ANST_FL_BIXENON
wert_01
wert_01

Coding for xenon is complete. You can now go back and add all your cool features again and disable all the bulb checks, etc.

I didn't go into complete detail, considering a lot of these steps are outlined in the Change the VO PDF (ftp://94.212.182.18/Other-Software/N..._Order_CAS.pdf), but that PDF file doesn't outline everything you have to do... it misses some steps. Be patient when you load that PDF, because it's so big that sometimes it crashes first, and you have to reopen that web page to download it.



Did you adjust with the adjustment arm? I'm surprised the AE would jump out, because it's not even a part of the projector assembly. That's strange!! I've adjusted my headlights a lot on each side, and nothing has happened to my AEs... they're still all connected. Then again, I have the FX-R retrofit, so obviously my setup is a little different.

I hope this never happens to me (knock on wood) cause I had to pay $450 to get my headlights installed.

LOl.. poor me. mine is not the Fx-r retrofit... but the aswer i got from Umnitza was really satisfied, they said they gonna offer me a set of extra wring and harness for the AEs to DRL. and also a new resistors to get rid of some errors. lol.. but. unfortunately i need to remove my highlight cover!.. maybe sometime next week.!! i will do it by myself i guess. ToT.. HOPE that would not happen on any of you! lol...

[ecaedus]

UPDATE:

after 2 hours yesterday afternoon, me and another friend installed the lights.

I must say i'm NOT HAPPY with the results. and DON'T buy them from Umnitza anymore. I'll show you the beam patter and you'll know why

the pure look of the AE and the headlights is great. but when you turn them on they are not the quality that i had expected.

i've taken several photos with iphone last night:

Bumper off



testing headlights for possible issues such as "suddenly turning off after driving for 15 min" or "OBC error" i'm driving a 2008 E90 328i. my OBC is not very sensitive. right now i'm getting one error coming on immediately after i start my car and then it disappears after 5min of driving. besides that i don't have any other issues



Bumper on the ground


OK, here is the part to demonstrate the beam pattern and cutoff shape:

first up: E90 OEM Halogen


as you can see the cutoff is horrific and the beam is not that wide, the vast areas on both sides of the car receives very little light. and they dont go that far either. on the ground the best lighting condition is only limited to a small portion area directly in front of the driver. other places are either dim or not lit up at all

Second: my Fx-r retrofited lights


i think now you know why i don't recommend these lights, look at the poor cutoff on both side of the lights, and how it turns to RAINBOW at both sides, LOL. but they are bright enough, but the cutoff is no better than OEM halogen. not to mention OEM xenons

another one to show the lights dispersion on the side, TERRIBLE


cutoff was a bit better after intense adjustments, as Trev has shown in previous posts.


Now here is a top quality, OEM, BMW X5 Xenon cutoff and beam pattern.



of course we all realize that the OEM xenons are $$$$ more expensive than these DEPOs but i was kind of hoping for a better quality projector after $770. and in the previous post the dude with the weird/terribad/horrific beam patter and cutoff(is there a cutoff lmao) has a DEPO headlights with no projector lens retrofit. so i guess i'm glad that i didn't go the stock DEPO way.

final verdict: these lights are NOT WORTH $770 that's DEFINITELY OVERPRICED if you want to have better FX-R projector retrofits, go to The Retrofit Source and buy their stuff, and retrofit them into your halogen lights(if anyone knows how that is...lol) better yet, just go and buy E90 OEM Xenon, they are better than these DEPO P90s w/ FX-R. don't be cheap on your car, if you want quality stuff just go buy quality stuff. DEPOs are NOT good quality and the FX-R lens from Umnitza are bad too.

i must say i'm regretting buying these lights from Umnitza, they are not what they were advertised to be, check this out:
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...twurkz/ghh.jpg

these are the pics umnitza sent me a month back when i was asking for these FX-R retrofit. they claim Lightwerks is a supplier of umnitza and stuff. LMAO these are either Photoshopped OR umnitza just got some cheap knockoff of FX-R projectors for my headlights.

So i say this again, Lesson learnt, next time anyone wants to change their Halogen to Xenon, GO THE OEM WAY!!!!! love your cars, stay away from Cheap Depo lights w/ bad FX-R projectors!!!!: lol:

[milly]

I just completed my headlight install!!! Took 5-6 hours but I had no idea how to take the bumper off so I had to Learn. Review later tonight these eyes are so bright

[milly]

Originally Posted by milly

I just completed my headlight install!!! Took 5-6 hours but I had no idea how to take the bumper off so I had to Learn. Review later tonight these eyes are so bright

I meant 4-5 hours. Lol

[ecaedus]

Originally Posted by milly

I meant 4-5 hours. Lol

be sure to post beam pattern and cutoff shape, thx!!~~

[Trevendous03]

I can understand your frustration with the FX-R retrofit. I agree it does not seem as good as I thought it'd be either, but that could be due to the poor alignment when Umnitza installed the projectors. My passenger side is crooked like yours. The projectors do seem kinda cheaply made, because they do have that rainbow prism at the edges. I do think though that the color flicker is really nice, and the cutoff is sharper than OEM xenon, meaning it's more clearly defined cutoff, but the beam pattern is messed up, which makes the cutoff look bad. Still to me the FX-R retrofit is 1000x brighter and nicer than OEM halogen. Everywhere else I looked to have a retrofit done, they wanted $700 for labor alone, not including the headlights. I'm guessing it would have been $1,000 total, and I wouldn't have got the Orion V2.

Maybe I'm not as picky as you are in terms of cutoff, because I'm very happy with my setup from Umnitza. I do agree however that they could have better quality FX replicas, and they could have paid more attention to detail when performing the retrofit to make sure the projectors are not tilted after installed.

[wmb0000]

To ecaedus:

So are you returning your setup? How about Fishcake one, is that better?

[Trevendous03]

Originally Posted by wmb0000

To ecaedus:

So are you returning your setup? How about Fishcake one, is that better?

Fishcake's setup would not be better, because you don't get the FX-R, so you'd have horrible light output from the DEPO projectors. Ecaedus says he likes the Angel Eyes from the Umnitza setup, as do I. The Angel Eyes are by far the best part.

Ecaedus, how would you rate the Umnitza setup? 10 being best, 1 being worst.

- Price
- Customer Service
- DEPO V2 P90
- Orion V2 Angel Eyes
- FX-R Retrofit

I would rate them:

- Price 8/10
- Customer Service 9/10
- DEPO V2 P90 7/10
- Orion V2 Angel Eyes 10/10
- FX-R Retrofit 6/10

Overall that's 8/10. So that's pretty good, but that's considering all those factors. The retrofit itself I would just rate at a 6 because of reasons noted in previous posts. The retrofit does look very clean, and the color flicker is nice, so that helps out my rating.

[ecaedus]

Originally Posted by wmb0000

To ecaedus:

So are you returning your setup? How about Fishcake one, is that better?

i'm not going to return the setup because i don't want to go through the trouble of removing the bumper and the headlights again. and DON'T DON'T DON'T take the Fishcake one, it's 100 times WORSE than the umnitza one because they use STOCK depo projector lense, if you don't know what that means just look at previous posts.

GET OEM, if u cant just go with umnitza

[mapleridge]

I almost bought the umnitza ones, then I received an LCI loaner while my car is being serviced. Man, they are aesthetically nice and the brightness of the xenons is amazing. Personally, I would say save up or keep your eyes open for some LCI's. Way better deal than aftermarket. I saw LCI's complete go for $900 on ebay recently. Not that far off from umnitza.

[jaceaholic]

I have a set for sale if interested.

Originally Posted by ecaedus

i'm not going to return the setup because i don't want to go through the trouble of removing the bumper and the headlights again. and DON'T DON'T DON'T take the Fishcake one, it's 100 times WORSE than the umnitza one because they use STOCK depo projector lense, if you don't know what that means just look at previous posts.

GET OEM, if u cant just go with umnitza

[jaceaholic]

There is no way you will find/get LCI xenon projectors for 900

Originally Posted by mapleridge

. I saw LCI's complete go for $900 on ebay recently. Not that far off from umnitza.

[ecaedus]

Originally Posted by jaceaholic

I have a set for sale if interested.

nah im good, i won't be changing lights for at least 3 years lol

[mapleridge]

Originally Posted by jaceaholic

There is no way you will find/get LCI xenon projectors for 900

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140641301114...#ht_500wt_1413


It was actually $800 plus $50 shipping.