[braveplayer3160]

Sorry to bump a dead thread but I have an issue that I ran into and through reading on here I still could not discern a usable answer. So here goes! I have a 2007 (01/2007 build date) e92. I had my angel eyes coded by Rotary Rasp about a year ago (really great guy) my car is actually the one pictured in post 98.

My problem is that I just began coding and was able to successfully code many options to my car. But, (heres where I get lost) after coding the FRM (I dont have FRM2) this morning it seemingly erased the nettodata changes that were made by Rotary when he coded the HID Halos for me. I tried following the tutorial but the ONLY file that is in my FRM module is 'WL_SL_1'

I DO NOT have the remaining coding lines 'CC_MELD_RL_BL_1_ALS_TFL' OR ' PWM_RL_BL_1_FKT_SL' to make changes too. As such I was unable to see the changes that were/are described by comparing the 2 nettodata files side by side and changing the differing values to those prescribed by Rotary.

Can someone who is more familiar with this help me out? I would really appreciate and I think that it might help those of us with the older modules in the long run. Thanks in advance for any and all help.

[braveplayer3160]

Originally Posted by braveplayer3160

Sorry to bump a dead thread but I have an issue that I ran into and through reading on here I still could not discern a usable answer. So here goes! I have a 2007 (01/2007 build date) e92. I had my angel eyes coded by Rotary Rasp about a year ago (really great guy) my car is actually the one pictured in post 98.

My problem is that I just began coding and was able to successfully code many options to my car. But, (heres where I get lost) after coding the FRM (I dont have FRM2) this morning it seemingly erased the nettodata changes that were made by Rotary when he coded the HID Halos for me. I tried following the tutorial but the ONLY file that is in my FRM module is 'WL_SL_1'

I DO NOT have the remaining coding lines 'CC_MELD_RL_BL_1_ALS_TFL' OR ' PWM_RL_BL_1_FKT_SL' to make changes too. As such I was unable to see the changes that were/are described by comparing the 2 nettodata files side by side and changing the differing values to those prescribed by Rotary.

Can someone who is more familiar with this help me out? I would really appreciate and I think that it might help those of us with the older modules in the long run. Thanks in advance for any and all help.

So I got this figured out and I'll add to help those of us with early build date e92's. My build date is 01/07 (just fyi). Basically, I followed the directions posted by 'Abear' with a few tweaks to accommodate my particular FRM module.

Originally Posted by Abear

After pulling a few post together I have managed to change the voltage on my Angel Eyes so that with daytime running, sidelights, dipped or main beam they are constantly bright. The only exception are the parking lights which still operate at the factory preset voltage.

Firstly thanks to the original posters who pointed me in the right direction - Revtor & dadeppa

For the guide below I have assumed NCSExpert etc is working, you will however also need a copy of NCSDummy.

1. Start NCSExpert & Load FSW PSW MAN profile.
2. Press F1 then F3 and select E89 then select CAS
3. Press F6 then F4. From the modules listed select NFRM
4. Under the word 'JOBNAME' on NCSExpert you will now have something which starts FRM..................................... Note all this down as you will need it later. (Mine was FRMFA.C09,A_PL2FRX.IPO,FRM_87.PRG)
5. Press F4 (read ECU). A box title NETTODAT.TRC will now open - you can close this.
6. You can now close NCSExpert
7. The above should have saved you a NETTODAT.TRC file in your NCSExpert Work folder. You are now going to change this file using NCSDummy.
8. Open NCSDummy - if it is the first time you have used it specify the path to your NCSExpert DATEN folder (I was using DATEN 45 for this)
9. In NCS Dummy select the following: Chassis - E89. Module - FRMFA.C09 FSW/PSW or Nettodata trace - the NETTODAT.TRC file you created above.
10. If you have done this correctly a new Tab appears labelled Trace Editor. Select this.
11. You now need to amend ONE entry: PWM_ANSTEUERUNG_RL_BL_1
12. Mine had options wert 1 to 6 available, wert 6 was selected. If you click on any of the selected ones the part you are interested in is listed as Data in the details section (this is what sepcifies the voltage)
13. On mine the BL showed Data of 00,10.
14. To override these if you right click on one of the selected entries you are given the option to add new custom parameters. The new custom parameter will be given the name <benutzerdefinierte> - <custom>.
15. Once added, click the box to the left to select it and this should deselect the previous 'factory' selected options
16. The Data option in details below should show as 00,00 and you can change this to any allowable entry. If you use 0C,2C you are specifying 13.7 volts. I used 38,0E (16 volts)
17. Once completed click Editor Functions and Export Nettodata Trace File. You should now be able to save a NETTODAT.MAN file.
18. You can now close NCSDummy as we have just created a new MAN file which we are going to use to code the NRFM module.
19. Start NCSExpert & Load Revtor's NCE Expert Profile
20. Press F1 then F3 and select E89 the select CAS
21. Press F6 then F4. From the modules listed select NFRM
22. A popup window will now open and check the details to those listed in point 4. DO NOT GO ANY FURTHER IF THEY DO NOT MATCH AS YOU HAVE DONE SOMETHING WRONG.
23. Assuming above is OK click OK and press F5 (basic functions). In the popup window select coapiCodeSgByNettoData.
24. For the CBD name make sure the correct module is already set & for Nettodatenliste enter NETTODAT.MAN (the file you created above)
25. Click OK to start the coding job.

If all goes OK you are done.

Hope this helps someone!

[Rotary Rasp]

Nice work!

[cisf0rcalvin]

Is it better to run the angel eyes at 13.7 or 16 volts? I had my NETTODAT at 0C,2C but I noticed you have it at 38,0E. I just coded my car today and got rid of all the wires from the alpine kit Engine bay is a lot cleaner now!

[Wedge1967]

Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp

I'm going to show you guys how you can install HID angel eyes without cutting or splicing any wires! And if that wasn't good enough, everything is self contained and will fit INSIDE the head light housing. All for a total of $40 + shipping.

Did the install and everything looks great, but they don't always startup. Any thoughts.

[cisf0rcalvin]

I went ahead at set the voltage to 38,0E 16 volts. However, it doesn't seem to work since the lights just flicker and die. The max I was able to set it to was 15 volts but my volt meter only shows up at 14.3.

[Wedge1967]

Originally Posted by cisf0rcalvin

I went ahead at set the voltage to 38,0E 16 volts. However, it doesn't seem to work since the lights just flicker and die. The max I was able to set it to was 15 volts but my volt meter only shows up at 14.3.

I'm having the same issue, they startup and run for 30 seconds then start to flicker and then go out. If I have the lights on, they will stay on. So I picked up some capacitors 2200uf35v from Radio Shack and will wire them in to see if that fixes the PWM wave.

[cisf0rcalvin]

Originally Posted by Wedge1967

I'm having the same issue, they startup and run for 30 seconds then start to flicker and then go out. If I have the lights on, they will stay on. So I picked up some capacitors 2200uf35v from Radio Shack and will wire them in to see if that fixes the PWM wave.

That should work. I didn't code my HID fog lights when I installed them a year ago. Instead I wired 4700uf caps and it fixed the flickering.

I'm not having any flickering issues currently with my angels though. I think 15 volts is near the max so the PWM signal shouldn't be affecting the ballast. Not sure if I should still wire the caps into those just in case. What voltage/hex value did you set yours to?

[Wedge1967]

Originally Posted by cisf0rcalvin

That should work. I didn't code my HID fog lights when I installed them a year ago. Instead I wired 4700uf caps and it fixed the flickering.

I'm not having any flickering issues currently with my angels though. I think 15 volts is near the max so the PWM signal shouldn't be affecting the ballast. Not sure if I should still wire the caps into those just in case. What voltage/hex value did you set yours to?

I coded mine and set the voltage to 38,0E 16v. When the car wasn't running, they looked fine. But with just daytime lights and car running after 20 sec they would start to flicker and go out. I just installed 2200uf35v caps and started the car up and they work now without the lights on. I also have a set for the fog lights. I didn't want to install them until I got the halos fixed. So far, so good...

[TommyLights]

Just run a relay from the power wire on the AE circuit. It removes the PWM issue and powers the ballast properly.

[Rotary Rasp]

Originally Posted by Tomz_M3

Just run a relay from the power wire on the AE circuit. It removes the PWM issue and powers the ballast properly.

The idea is to keep it oem looking.

[TommyLights]

Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp

The idea is to keep it oem looking.

What does using relay have to do with that? Coding often doesnt work for HID halos, but using a relay is a proven solution. Do you know anything about this solution? It's very effective and easy to tuck wires so it looks oem. I create light LED and HID setups all day.

[Beamin]

What state are you in. Ill travel for you to do this

[Rotary Rasp]

Originally Posted by Tomz_M3

What does using relay have to do with that? Coding often doesnt work for HID halos, but using a relay is a proven solution. Do you know anything about this solution? It's very effective and easy to tuck wires so it looks oem. I create light LED and HID setups all day.

lol, do I now anything about it? I created this thread buddy.

[techie182]

Darn shouldve checked this thread before getting mine.
Currently bought 2 HID kits and capacitor. Cant get em to work even with capacitor. It flickers for 2-3 sec and dies.
What is the best way/connector to tab ballast into?

[TommyLights]

Originally Posted by techie182

Darn shouldve checked this thread before getting mine.
Currently bought 2 HID kits and capacitor. Cant get em to work even with capacitor. It flickers for 2-3 sec and dies.
What is the best way/connector to tab ballast into?

Use an automotive relay (specifically for the bulbs you are using, H8 I think, dont remember, lots of them on ebay for about 5 bucks shipped). Plug the power lead of the relay into one of the power pugs the bulbs are supposed to go into (either side works fine), then wire the relay to the battery and a ground. There are two more leads in the relay, one for each ballast. Plug them in and you are all set. You will get a good power source directly from the battery and avoid the flickering issues everyone hates because you are bypassing the PWM issues and getting a clean power supply. You will still need to get the error eliminated from the AE circuit, since you are only using one side. You can then tuck the wires away, and you will never have an issue again. Capacitors dont work for many of our cars, and this eliminates the issue. Ran my HID kit for over a year after trying different capacitors.

[Wedge1967]

Originally Posted by Tomz_M3

Use an automotive relay (specifically for the bulbs you are using, H8 I think, dont remember, lots of them on ebay for about 5 bucks shipped). Plug the power lead of the relay into one of the power pugs the bulbs are supposed to go into (either side works fine), then wire the relay to the battery and a ground. There are two more leads in the relay, one for each ballast. Plug them in and you are all set. You will get a good power source directly from the battery and avoid the flickering issues everyone hates because you are bypassing the PWM issues and getting a clean power supply. You will still need to get the error eliminated from the AE circuit, since you are only using one side. You can then tuck the wires away, and you will never have an issue again. Capacitors dont work for many of our cars, and this eliminates the issue. Ran my HID kit for over a year after trying different capacitors.

Depends on what capacitor you were using, but with the 2200uf35v acts like a low pass filter on the PWM signal, so it charges on cycle and discharges off cycle causing a nice smooth signal wave to the balast. Working for me. Have both halo and fog HID using the DDM kits. The also look amazing.

[TommyLights]

Originally Posted by Wedge1967

Depends on what capacitor you were using, but with the 2200uf35v acts like a low pass filter on the PWM signal, so it charges on cycle and discharges off cycle causing a nice smooth signal wave to the balast. Working for me. Have both halo and fog HID using the DDM kits. The also look amazing.

2200 worked randomly for me. So I swapped out. Mine was a 3/07 build.

[Wedge1967]

Originally Posted by Tomz_M3

2200 worked randomly for me. So I swapped out. Mine was a 3/07 build.

I have an 07/07. I'm running my halos at 38,0E so maybe that has something to do with it. Up the duty cycle on the PWM so it has less off time.

[TommyLights]

Originally Posted by Wedge1967

I have an 07/07. I'm running my halos at 38,0E so maybe that has something to do with it. Up the duty cycle on the PWM so it has less off time.

Duty cycle was coded to maximum. Still had errors. Anyway, now in an M3 and no HID halos, switched to V4 LED's, but using that same relay to run a quad headlight setup instead.

[Wedge1967]

Originally Posted by Tomz_M3

Duty cycle was coded to maximum. Still had errors. Anyway, now in an M3 and no HID halos, switched to V4 LED's, but using that same relay to run a quad headlight setup instead.

Cool... Funny part is with the low pass filter using the 2200uf35v I don't have bulb errors when I turn checking back on. So I'm leaving it on. So the only things I did was turned Soft to Hard On and set the duty cycle to 38,0E.

I'm wondering if you got the polarity switched when connecting the lights or had the capacitors hooked up backward. Oh well, guess anything is possible, but this setup is working very well for me as I have both halo and fogs setup the same way.

If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.

[itrocks4u]

Does this work for halogen headlights as well?