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      08-03-2013, 02:45 PM   #2399
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Don't make me bring out my Schwann, i'll do it.
It's called a Schwinn knucklehead
That was me in the Mercedes that you didn't recognize lol
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      08-03-2013, 03:51 PM   #2400
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I don't like them and I killed them in 1 day. The dust is still on my rims, too.
I'm a little rusty on my street/track dual purpose pads Jay. I got two weekends in Road Atlanta out of mine, but my car had smaller rotors then yours (so a lot more heat = faster wear).

I definitely was disappointed they didn't last longer but it's a progressive pad and good to learn on for a beginner, that I remember.

Look into the Performance Friction Z rated pad. I have no experience with them but they should last a little bit longer. I went ahead and checked some forums and they seem to equal the HP+ but last a little longer.

Edit: Actually, I remember I had to buy a set of pads from someone in the paddock because my HP+ pads wore out mid day Saturday at my next event. With your TTS your brakes are much bigger so they'll go longer, but there a better options now a days (this was back in 2006 for me)
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      08-04-2013, 01:23 AM   #2401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mkah
Quote:
Originally Posted by str8nm
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Don't make me bring out my Schwann, i'll do it.
It's called a Schwinn knucklehead
That was me in the Mercedes that you didn't recognize lol


I was wondering.
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      08-04-2013, 01:21 PM   #2402
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Just saw TiAg e90 M3 with tinted tails and what looked like purple wheels on Sherwood and I-12 anyone know this car?
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      08-04-2013, 01:26 PM   #2403
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Originally Posted by Onurleft View Post
Actually, I remember I had to buy a set of pads from someone in the paddock because my HP+ pads wore out mid day Saturday at my next event. With your TTS your brakes are much bigger so they'll go longer, but there a better options now a days (this was back in 2006 for me)
It sounds like I'm gonna get 15 different answers from 12 different people when it comes to brake pads, so...I'll begin the great brake experiment with the Ss in the rear & +s in the front, and bring a couple of rags to clean off the dust. The Hawk box says "Low Dust"...manufacturers never lie...should be fine.
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      08-04-2013, 02:18 PM   #2404
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It sounds like I'm gonna get 15 different answers from 12 different people when it comes to brake pads, so...I'll begin the great brake experiment with the Ss in the rear & +s in the front, and bring a couple of rags to clean off the dust. The Hawk box says "Low Dust"...manufacturers never lie...should be fine.
You should do the same pads front and rear. It's best not to create a brake bias (generally).
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      08-04-2013, 06:10 PM   #2405
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Most all guys in IP are using a cooler pad in the rear, there's a lot less heat back there
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      08-04-2013, 06:15 PM   #2406
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Most all guys in IP are using a cooler pad in the rear, there's a lot less heat back there
Depends on how good your rotors are too. Depending on how fast 504 medic is, HPS might not be enough for him. He might be breaching the limits in the front with HP+, and overshooting them in the rear with HPS.
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      08-04-2013, 06:34 PM   #2407
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They'll be fine at the temperatures he's generating, especially with those big brakes and the fact that we only had a slightly soft peddle and no fade on the OE pads.

Jay if you'd like grab yourself a temperature gun (laser), they are about $40. This is a great tool to have to monitor rotor temps
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      08-05-2013, 12:48 AM   #2408
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They'll be fine at the temperatures he's generating, especially with those big brakes and the fact that we only had a slightly soft peddle and no fade on the OE pads.

Jay if you'd like grab yourself a temperature gun (laser), they are about $40. This is a great tool to have to monitor rotor temps
You mean I can't simply divine whether it's hot from the smoke rising from the front tires at the end of a lap session?

I'll pick one up and add it to my track bag...it will be useful for finding insulation gaps in my house as well.
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      08-05-2013, 12:54 AM   #2409
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You mean I can't simply divine whether it's hot from the smoke rising from the front tires at the end of a lap session?

I'll pick one up and add it to my track bag...it will be useful for finding insulation gaps in my house as well.
When your OE pads get to hot, they stop working. We could've gone much later and pushed them harder to the point of inconsistency which we never fully reached

The smoke was from resting on the brakes when we were in the paddock coming to a slow after being on the track, but none the less we did get them very hot

If you remember when we came off track in my car, I stopped the car with the gears, not the brakes. I slowed the car off track every time from the gears and I shut the car off by coming to a stop without touching the brakes. This is the main reason why my pads never smoked or smelled poorly off track despite having rotor temps of 500-600 degree after the cool down lap.
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      08-05-2013, 09:48 AM   #2410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 504medic View Post
You mean I can't simply divine whether it's hot from the smoke rising from the front tires at the end of a lap session?

I'll pick one up and add it to my track bag...it will be useful for finding insulation gaps in my house as well.
For insulation gaps, you need a Flir infrared camera!

I never did think about engine breaking after a session versus slow braking burning the pads. The more you know!
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      08-05-2013, 09:58 AM   #2411
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For insulation gaps, you need a Flir infrared camera!

I never did think about engine breaking after a session versus slow braking burning the pads. The more you know!
Hah yeah Stu, if you were smoking the pads big time after coming in remember to kind of 'plan' your stop and bring the car to hault by shutting it off while it is in gear. Try not to use the brakes or e-brake

Jay's car was DSG so there's not much you can do
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      08-06-2013, 01:43 AM   #2412
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Hah yeah Stu, if you were smoking the pads big time after coming in remember to kind of 'plan' your stop and bring the car to hault by shutting it off while it is in gear. Try not to use the brakes or e-brake

Jay's car was DSG so there's not much you can do
Also, I was trying to get every lap out of the day! Not missing an ounce of track time.
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      08-07-2013, 02:07 PM   #2413
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T minus 3 weeks and Im home... Lets plan a get together.. Any one interested?
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      08-07-2013, 05:23 PM   #2414
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T minus 3 weeks and Im home... Lets plan a get together.. Any one interested?
let's drive. I sent you a pm
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      08-07-2013, 08:53 PM   #2415
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I'm down for a drive.
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      08-08-2013, 03:52 AM   #2416
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Hey guys and gals, I am in the NOLA area as well. I drive a FBO 135i. Would like to meet some of you guys one day.
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      08-08-2013, 09:43 AM   #2417
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I'm down for a drive.
Are you going to bring your Schwaan?
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      08-08-2013, 10:12 AM   #2418
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Quote:
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I'm down for a drive.
Are you going to bring your Schwaan?
Of course. Or my M3, if Todd and I have it back together.

Decided to do the work ourselves, so I picked it up like this:



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      08-08-2013, 10:27 AM   #2419
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2001 BMW M5 - Alpine White/Caramel - 155k Miles

Maintenance history from previous owners and myself. Clutch replaced relatively recently by the PO, and it still feels strong. Since I purchased the car, it has received a complete suspension overhaul (bushings, arms, tie rods, coilovers, etc), brake pads, all fluids, and more. Only modification, other than the coilovers and X5 CABs, is a muffler delete done by the PO and 18x10 APEX ARC-8s w/285/30s. As anyone who's been around the car knows, it sounds great. I do have an E60 SSK that has yet to be installed that I will provide with the car, if you buy it.

The bad:

The front bumper could stand to be replaced, as the driver side fog was knocked out by a piece of road debris. The bracket is busted, but the fog light is fine (albeit, not on the car). Also, the passenger side has a portion that is cracked on the underside. Currently held up very well by zip ties and not noticeable to bystanders.

The passenger side, front wheel is bent and needs to be replaced. I plan on doing this very soon, but as it stands, I need to mention it.

The springs on the coilovers are crap and need to be replaced. The coil assembly is fine, just the springs that suck.

Interior shows wear, but nothing drastic. No tears or excessive wear areas. But, cracks and scratches are there.

Usual rock chips and dings for a 13 year old car. The wheels have a number of rock chips, due to me driving the car on gravel.

$15,500.

Anyone interested?

-Clayton
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      08-08-2013, 10:52 AM   #2420
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Noooooo! What are you replacing it with?
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